that is what I am thinking. Would vaseline work? Thank you,
Bo On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 3:49 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Put some dielectric grease on the connections ;) > > > > *Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I* > > *www.dellabarba.com <http://www.dellabarba.com>* > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *General > Gao via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, May 18, 2020 3:41 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* General Gao <general.z....@gmail.com> > *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List speedometer - C&C 35 Mk2 > > > > Reporting back. followed the guide and verified the transmitter had > resistance of 1787ohms, verified there was VAC output when the paddle was > turning fast (couldn't get to the 5knots as boat is on land). Decided to > sand the connectors, and put it back, tested again, and it worked...the > connectors looked without rust, a bit surprised. > > > > Thank you everyone for the kind help! > > > > Stay safe, stay healthy. > > > > Regards, > > > > Bo > > > > On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 11:42 AM General Gao <general.z....@gmail.com> > wrote: > > thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I will go check > and report back. > > > > Stay safe! > > > > Bo > > > > On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming from > the paddlewheel transducer, it is likely this 'generator' type as a more > modern hall effect transducer will have at least three wires (I think). > > > > Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between the transducer > and the instrument will cause it all to not work. We would just pull the > transducer and connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see > what happens. > > > > From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked: > > > > TROUBLESHOOTING > > > > DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the transmitter or the > display. Please follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the > problem- > > > > A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an ohm meter for > resistance value of approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the > paddlewheel. > > a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any broken fins or missing > magnets. > > b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing. > > B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel is spinning. You > should get approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed when unloaded > (not hooked up to display). > > INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and add an AC > voltmeter to where the input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor > or sail as usual- > > > > A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed indication appears on > display, then the problem is in the display. > > B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced, then the paddlewheel > is not always turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it spins freely, > and then try again. If the results are the same then paddlewheel may need > replacing. > > > > > > > > On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these > generator style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage > developed between the two? I would expect that a simple initial test would > be for continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped. Then spin > the wheel and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel. > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > > > > > On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when > we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it > was always fun to peg it :) > > Joe > > Coquina > > On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote: > > Have you looked at this web page? This takes yo to the manuals for SR > > Mariner Instruments (since 1973): > > https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals > <https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=8594dd2f-d8e74e4e-8594f458-ac1f6b44e86e-dd5873740a9ca4d3&q=1&e=efdd7465-d92c-4c80-83ec-908c6edcb26a&u=https%3A%2F%2Fsrinstruments.com%2Fmanuals%23mariner_manuals> > > > > The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C&C 35 > > Mk.I 1973) was self powered. In other words, no external power was > > needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night > > use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator. > > > > More info here: https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf > <https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=02beb11d-5fcd227c-02be986a-ac1f6b44e86e-410501274e5fda22&q=1&e=efdd7465-d92c-4c80-83ec-908c6edcb26a&u=https%3A%2F%2Fsrinstruments.com%2Fr%2Fmanuals%2Fpublic%2FMANSELF.pdf> > > > > Ken H. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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