Dielectric grease is made specifically for electrical use. Any auto parts store has it for about $5.

Joe

Coquina

On 5/23/2020 12:54 PM, General Gao via CnC-List wrote:
that is what I am thinking. Would vaseline work?

Thank you,

Bo

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 3:49 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

    Put some dielectric grease on the connections ;)

    */Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I/*

    */www.dellabarba.com <http://www.dellabarba.com>/*

    *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
    <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *General Gao
    via CnC-List
    *Sent:* Monday, May 18, 2020 3:41 PM
    *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
    *Cc:* General Gao <general.z....@gmail.com
    <mailto:general.z....@gmail.com>>
    *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List speedometer - C&C 35 Mk2

    Reporting back. followed the guide and verified the transmitter
    had resistance of 1787ohms, verified there was VAC output when the
    paddle was turning fast (couldn't get to the 5knots as boat is on
    land). Decided to sand the connectors, and put it back, tested
    again, and it worked...the connectors looked without rust, a bit
    surprised.

    Thank you everyone for the kind help!

    Stay safe, stay healthy.

    Regards,

    Bo

    On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 11:42 AM General Gao
    <general.z....@gmail.com <mailto:general.z....@gmail.com>> wrote:

        thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I
        will go check and report back.

        Stay safe!

        Bo

        On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List
        <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

            Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming
            from the paddlewheel transducer, it is likely this
            'generator' type as a more modern hall effect transducer
            will have at least three wires (I think).

            Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between
            the transducer and the instrument will cause it all to not
            work.  We would just pull the transducer and connect it
            directly to the back of the instrument to see what happens.

            From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I
            linked:

            TROUBLESHOOTING

            DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the
            transmitter or the display. Please follow the proceeding
            steps to determine cause of the problem-

                A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an
                ohm meter for resistance value of approximately 2000
                ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the paddlewheel.

                    a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any
                    broken fins or missing magnets.

                    b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit
                    needs replacing.

                B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel
                is spinning. You should get approximately 1.0 VAC at
                about 5 knots of speed when unloaded (not hooked up to
                display).

            INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and
            add an AC voltmeter to where the input wires of the
            transmitter are connected. Motor or sail as usual-

                A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed
                indication appears on display, then the problem is in
                the display.

                B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced,
                then the paddlewheel is not always turning. Clean
                paddlewheel first and be sure it spins freely, and
                then try again. If the results are the same then
                paddlewheel may need replacing.

            On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
            <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

                So if I understand it correctly, the theory of
                operation for these generator style knot meters would
                simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage developed
                between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial
                test would be for continuity between the two wires
                with the wheel stopped.  Then spin the wheel and check
                for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.

                Josh Muckley

                S/V Sea Hawk

                1989 C&C 37+

                Solomons, MD

                On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via
                CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
                <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

                    There are (were) some generator knotmeters.
                    Coquina came with one when
                    we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at
                    10 or 12 knots and it
                    was always fun to peg it :)

                    Joe

                    Coquina

                    On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
                    > Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo
                    to the manuals for SR
                    > Mariner Instruments (since 1973):
                    >
                    https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
                    
<https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=8594dd2f-d8e74e4e-8594f458-ac1f6b44e86e-dd5873740a9ca4d3&q=1&e=efdd7465-d92c-4c80-83ec-908c6edcb26a&u=https%3A%2F%2Fsrinstruments.com%2Fmanuals%23mariner_manuals>
                    >
                    > The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on
                    (on a friend's C&C 35
                    > Mk.I 1973) was self powered. In other words, no
                    external power was
                    > needed (except for the backlight for the
                    instrument face for night
                    > use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.
                    >
                    > More info here:
                    https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
                    
<https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=02beb11d-5fcd227c-02be986a-ac1f6b44e86e-410501274e5fda22&q=1&e=efdd7465-d92c-4c80-83ec-908c6edcb26a&u=https%3A%2F%2Fsrinstruments.com%2Fr%2Fmanuals%2Fpublic%2FMANSELF.pdf>
                    >
                    > Ken H.
                    >

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