Fiberglass repair videos are provided by Jamestown Distributors and/or Boatworks Today.
-In general you'll want to epoxy a backer on the bottom of the deck to hold the filler in place. A piece of G10 might be a good choice. 1/8th inch would probably be thick enough but thicker would be fine too. -With the backer epoxied in place remove the core all around the sides of hole. Go as far back as possible. Unless this area has already been filled out with epoxy. -Wet the entire cavity with unthickened epoxy. You can inject with a syringe up in the cavity and then use a brush to spread that which runs back into the "hole". If you have too much use the syringe to suck out the extra. Give the epoxy a chance to "kick" but don't wait so long that it cures. -Inject thickened epoxy (consistenc of peanut butter up into the now wetted cavity. Thickened epoxy in the tube is available as thiox? and Six10. Or you can make your own. If you are not using a fill material such as wood then just pump the hole full of thickened epoxy. Be careful to use really long cure times so that it doesn't overheat and cause a runaway reaction. -If you want a filler then just smooth the epoxy into a vertical plane along the edges of the hole. This is where you would pick up if this step was already done during the chimney installation. -Select a filler material or none at all. Cousa board is a fiberglass sponge type material that seems to be a good choice. Cut it to fit and install in the hole while the previous epoxy is still at least tacky but less cured is fine too. -soak down the filler with un-thickened epoxy and let it cure. -with a grinder, feather the edges of the whole 4 inches back. -Cut fiberglass cloth in concentric circular shapes such that they fill the feathered area. Each layer will layup as 1/16 inch thick so cut each one accordingly (appropriately 1" shorter radius for each layer. -MASK! -brush on some epoxy then apply the smallest bottom layer which should extend about 1" over the joint. Brush more on until the whole thing is clear and evenly wetted with epoxy. -allow it to kick for a few minutes. -Repeat for the remaining layers. -let it all fully cure. -wash off the amine blush with soap water and a scrubby pad -sand flush with a DA or orbital sander -if you need to add thickness to level the deck area then you can fill depressions with thickened epoxy or if the whole thing is deep you can add another layer of glass. -cure, clean, sand, leave with 80 grit for a tooth for the top coat. -easiest non-skid is probably gonna be kiwi-grip. I probably forgot something along the way. Sorry. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sat, May 23, 2020, 11:46 John Conklin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Ok I had a chance to visit the boat during 5 straight days of torrential > rain Here in in Oriental. > Found a pretty good leak at exhaust pipe on the force 10 water running > along coach roof to circular block creating a water trap. > Realized it was not only leaking dripping off heater and down wall but > finding its way into roof liner and traveling mid ship leaking from > headliner at that spot too bottom line - I do not use this heater and could > be really bad news and cause unseeen damage if I don’t seal this up. I > want it out ! Anyone want this baby or ebay or ?? > As a rookie on fiberglass or epoxy Curious on the process for fillIng > this size hole that will be left in deck 1 1/2”+- which also sees foot > traffic think that’s what happen fee good kicks > Thanks !! > > John Conklin > S/V Halcyon > S/V Heartbeat > www.flirtingwithfire.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
