Re: Stus-List Auto pilot upgrade

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I had a ST4000 on my 35 Mk II.  I was never happy with it.  Went with a
below deck unit, and never looked back.  If you are not handy enough to
install it yourself, it can be an expensive undertaking.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, May 25, 2018 at 5:58 PM, Allan Hester via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> One of the upgrades on my list is to replace the ancient Autohelm ST 4000
> with a unit from this century. It still works, kind of,  but I would like
> a unit that can keep up with rolling seas.
>
> I will likely go with another wheel helm autopilot but would consider an
> under deck unit. I think an under deck unit would be a lot of extra work
> and expense to install but I don't know as I have no experience in this
> area.
>
> Any advice/experience with these 2 options?
>
> AL H.
> C&C 35 Mk 3 #264
> Vancouver, BC.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Coupling bolts shearing

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Not sure of the weight for my Westerbeke (will look), but I use Shell Rotella 
heavy duty oil for diesel engines.  Don’t use the regular stuff.

From: detroito91 via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2018 10:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: detroito91 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Coupling bolts shearing

To all the 38LF 's out there  
  What weight oil in the westerbeak engine and what weight oil in the v-drive.
Thanks to you all.  Test runs start at 8am!
Have a good memorial day. Thanks to all us veterans. 

Jim Schwartz 
38LF 
SEA YA!
Washington nc

 Original message 
From: detroito91 via CnC-List  
Date: 5/25/18 6:31 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: detroito91  
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]   Re:  Coupling bolts shearing 

Thanks. 
First step is today...grade 10. Previous bolts were grade 5.
I do like the idea of having someone look at the old bolts. They were 3 months 
old.
Jim

 Original message 
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"  
Date: 5/24/18 12:59 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]   Re:  Coupling bolts shearing 

Once you get your new bolts in, get someone to shift F-N-R while you watch the 
engine and motor mounts. See if one or more of the mounts is allowing excess 
movement.

For once I am glad to not have rubber motor mounts, my engine is hard-bolted to 
the boat.

Joe

Coquina

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 12:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91 ; Dreuge 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

 

Great suggestions.  Will do. Was planning on grade 8 bolts.

Can do alot of thinking during my 6 hour tow back to my slip!

Thanks jim

 

 Original message 

From: Dreuge via CnC-List  

Date: 5/24/18 11:07 AM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Dreuge  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing 

 

When I was installing my rebuilt Yanmar 3QM30, I called the folks at 
Transmission Marine Inc in Fort Lauderdale, FL for some advice (and I needed to 
purchase a replacement dipstick for the paragon).  They strongly stressed the 
importance of precise shaft alignment to avoid future problems.  First 
mentioned was the Walter v-drive seals failing is not properly aligned.   I 
spent plenty of time aligning using feeler gauges on all sides of the coupler.  
After the first year, I verified the alignment.   So far, I have not have any 
issues with the v-drive coupler.  

 

I would NOT recommend stainless steel bolts.  As I recall, stainless has less 
than 25% of the sheer strength compared to a grade 8 bolt.  Grade 8 bolts are 
industry standard for demanding applications such as automotive suspensions.  I 
used nickel anti-seize on the bolts and keep the coupler painted and corrosion 
free.  

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/





  On May 24, 2018, at 8:20 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

   

  From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
  Date: 5/24/18 12:37 AM (GMT-05:00)
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Russ & Melody mailto:russ...@telus.net>>
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing


  Hi Jim,

  My first question is, "Did someone recommend and use stainless steel bolts, 
say 316L, as the "best" for marine application?"

 Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35mk-1


  At 11:48 AM 5/23/2018, you wrote:

  The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38.
  The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of power.
  Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.
  The westerbeak engine runs great throughout all this. The shaft removed and 
checked after the second  time. The 2 bladed max prop sent back and rebuilt. 
New motor mounts installed by po when replacing engine. About 4 years ago (<200 
hours on engine) coupling. Allignment done each time and found okay.
  I am looking for advice,  suggestions, similar situations and corrections. 
HELP
  Losing confidence in boat.
  Thanks
  Jim schwartz
  SEA YA I
  38 LF
  Washington nc

 




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Coupling bolts shearing

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I also use Shell’s Rotella. The weight would depend on the temperatures your 
engine is to endure. However, our engines are hardly ever running overly hot 
(shouldn’t). Rotella T 15W40 should meet more than you need.

Marek
1994 C270 (Perkins M20)
Ottawa, ON

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2018 09:12
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Coupling bolts shearing

Not sure of the weight for my Westerbeke (will look), but I use Shell Rotella 
heavy duty oil for diesel engines.  Don’t use the regular stuff.

From: detroito91 via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2018 10:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Coupling bolts shearing

To all the 38LF 's out there
  What weight oil in the westerbeak engine and what weight oil in the v-drive.
Thanks to you all.  Test runs start at 8am!
Have a good memorial day. Thanks to all us veterans.

Jim Schwartz
38LF
SEA YA!
Washington nc

 Original message 
From: detroito91 via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 5/25/18 6:31 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91 mailto:detroit...@aol.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]   Re:  Coupling bolts shearing

Thanks.
First step is today...grade 10. Previous bolts were grade 5.
I do like the idea of having someone look at the old bolts. They were 3 months 
old.
Jim

 Original message 
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 5/24/18 12:59 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]   Re:  Coupling bolts shearing

Once you get your new bolts in, get someone to shift F-N-R while you watch the 
engine and motor mounts. See if one or more of the mounts is allowing excess 
movement.
For once I am glad to not have rubber motor mounts, my engine is hard-bolted to 
the boat.
Joe
Coquina



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 12:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91 mailto:detroit...@aol.com>>; Dreuge 
mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

Great suggestions.  Will do. Was planning on grade 8 bolts.
Can do alot of thinking during my 6 hour tow back to my slip!
Thanks jim

 Original message 
From: Dreuge via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 5/24/18 11:07 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

When I was installing my rebuilt Yanmar 3QM30, I called the folks at 
Transmission Marine Inc in Fort Lauderdale, FL for some advice (and I needed to 
purchase a replacement dipstick for the paragon).  They strongly stressed the 
importance of precise shaft alignment to avoid future problems.  First 
mentioned was the Walter v-drive seals failing is not properly aligned.   I 
spent plenty of time aligning using feeler gauges on all sides of the coupler.  
After the first year, I verified the alignment.   So far, I have not have any 
issues with the v-drive coupler.

I would NOT recommend stainless steel bolts.  As I recall, stainless has less 
than 25% of the sheer strength compared to a grade 8 bolt.  Grade 8 bolts are 
industry standard for demanding applications such as automotive suspensions.  I 
used nickel anti-seize on the bolts and keep the coupler painted and corrosion 
free.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On May 24, 2018, at 8:20 AM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 5/24/18 12:37 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
mailto:russ...@telus.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing


Hi Jim,

My first question is, "Did someone recommend and use stainless steel bolts, say 
316L, as the "best" for marine application?"

   Cheers, Russ
   Sweet 35mk-1


At 11:48 AM 5/23/2018, you wrote:

The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38.
The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of power.
Have been very careful to pause when changing ge

Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Well, yesterday, as we left our overnight anchorage, I did a full reset of the 
autopilot.  Followed by the linearization that only showed a 3 degree 
deviation. This indicates there are no issues with the compass being influenced 
by and ferrous interference.  A few of the rudder setting were way off and I 
was hoping that would resolve any issues.  One thing I did notice is that the 
pilot was not receiving the GPS info from my e7 MFD.   

Once everything was done we set out.  Things seemed ok for a while.  The 
excessive course hunting stopped and she was holding course  fine.  No circuit 
breaker issues either.  Then she just started to wander to port...  Restart 
would settle things down, but in a few minutes she would go off on me again.  
it just deteriorated from there so we went manual from there.

When I installed the MFD myself a few years ago I used the appropriate Gtalk ti 
Gtalk ng converter and all of the G60 instruments show up on the MFD.  but I 
didn’t go at all into the interface.  

At this point I suspect there is a software version mismatch.  I found the 
update .iso  that will load the update for the pilot onto it via the MFD.  I’ll 
need to get home to download it and see if the helps.

The below deck conversion looks like something I may consider either doing 
myself or using my checkbook.  But I better get the Pilot’s brain working right 
first...

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660

> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 25 May 2018 21:30:43 -0400
> From: bushma...@aol.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!
> Message-ID: <1639a11b81b-c8c-b...@webjas-vae204.srv.aolmail.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Tom, before you do anything you should consult with Fred Street of this List, 
> Fred sourced all parts and materials for my 37 and was extremely helpful in 
> installation information; his contact is Post Audio; (Fred jump in here with 
> the proper contact info);  
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark 4: C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
> To: Ron Ricci 
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia ; cnc-list 
> Sent: Fri, May 25, 2018 1:02 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!
> 
> Thanks Ron
> 
> I am well aware of the limitations of the wheel pilot.  But the PO did it and 
> when motoring in light conditions it works ok most of the time...so replacing 
> it was more about economics than best case.
> 
> 
> I am thinking the present issues could be a good enough reason to spring for 
> it.  That said, I get it about the install and am not too sure it?s something 
> I would be able to pull off, even with help.  But then, having a yard do it 
> often gets a worse result the a DIY solution.
> 
> If my control head is not messed up I may just need the below deck stuff, 
> which will for sure lower the cost.
> We?ll see.
> Thx again.
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> 
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

This sounds obvious, but no one has mentioned it, I think: Did you check the 
belt?

Several years ago, I had a maddening problem with my 4000+. Turns out the belt 
was worn out in one spot. Every time it reached that spot, the boat would go 
out of control ...

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
Date:05/26/2018  11:39 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia  
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad! 

Well, yesterday, as we left our overnight anchorage, I did a full reset of the 
autopilot.  Followed by the linearization that only showed a 3 degree 
deviation. This indicates there are no issues with the compass being influenced 
by and ferrous interference.  A few of the rudder setting were way off and I 
was hoping that would resolve any issues.  One thing I did notice is that the 
pilot was not receiving the GPS info from my e7 MFD.   

Once everything was done we set out.  Things seemed ok for a while.  The 
excessive course hunting stopped and she was holding course  fine.  No circuit 
breaker issues either.  Then she just started to wander to port...  Restart 
would settle things down, but in a few minutes she would go off on me again.  
it just deteriorated from there so we went manual from there.

When I installed the MFD myself a few years ago I used the appropriate Gtalk ti 
Gtalk ng converter and all of the G60 instruments show up on the MFD.  but I 
didn’t go at all into the interface.  

At this point I suspect there is a software version mismatch.  I found the 
update .iso  that will load the update for the pilot onto it via the MFD.  I’ll 
need to get home to download it and see if the helps.

The below deck conversion looks like something I may consider either doing 
myself or using my checkbook.  But I better get the Pilot’s brain working right 
first...

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 25 May 2018 21:30:43 -0400
From: bushma...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!
Message-ID: <1639a11b81b-c8c-b...@webjas-vae204.srv.aolmail.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Tom, before you do anything you should consult with Fred Street of this List, 
Fred sourced all parts and materials for my 37 and was extremely helpful in 
installation information; his contact is Post Audio; (Fred jump in here with 
the proper contact info);  

Richard
s/v Bushmark 4: C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
To: Ron Ricci 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia ; cnc-list 
Sent: Fri, May 25, 2018 1:02 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

Thanks Ron

I am well aware of the limitations of the wheel pilot.  But the PO did it and 
when motoring in light conditions it works ok most of the time...so replacing 
it was more about economics than best case.


I am thinking the present issues could be a good enough reason to spring for 
it.  That said, I get it about the install and am not too sure it?s something I 
would be able to pull off, even with help.  But then, having a yard do it often 
gets a worse result the a DIY solution.

If my control head is not messed up I may just need the below deck stuff, which 
will for sure lower the cost.
We?ll see.
Thx again.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Daniel Cormier via CnC-List]

Ok, so I finally got them freed up. For one I used a monkey wrench and it gave 
after considerable force. The second required a 2' pipe slide into the end of 
my huge monkey wrench and came free with the leverage with no damage to 
anything as far as I can tell. The drums needed scrubbing with a non-scratching 
scouring pad and I re-assembled them with lubricant. One drum looked smooth, 
the other showed a little black and tarnish. I don't have any lapping compound 
so hopefully I don't get any leaks... how important is the lapping compound 
step?

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 25, 2018, at 9:22 PM, G Collins via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on the 
> stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.
> 
> Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it as 
> it made it a lot faster to turn the cone.
> 
> Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I 
> ground one down to fit the inside nut.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>> On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>> Thanks Rick,
>> 
>> So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both 
>> seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench 
>> liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I 
>> stopped up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively 
>> down both scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles 
>> and put a wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with a 
>> rubber mallet to no avail.
>> 
>> There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with 
>> anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of 
>> anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in 
>> storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe trick 
>> but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will send an 
>> update then!
>> 
>> Thanks for all the help guys!
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Dan;
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve – kind 
>>> of like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug that 
>>> looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline. 
>>> There is a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered 
>>> plug into the tapered body of the through hull.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove 
>>> it, just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to 
>>> soak in a bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet. 
>>> Neither the nut or the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A 
>>> sound tap or two will move the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break 
>>> the bond of the internal corrosion.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you don’t 
>>> damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the valve. A 
>>> smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially what 
>>> keeps water from leaking around the plug.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis 
>>> C. via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
>>> To: CnClist 
>>> Cc: Dennis C. 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a 
>>> liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances 
>>> are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a 
>>> way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the 
>>> top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the 
>>> plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total), 
>>> sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have 
>>> loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my 
>>> mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from 
>>> undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from 
>>> the removed hose?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
>>> outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it 
>>> in the top?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 

Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey Everyone,

Well we were lucky enough to be able to take out our 34 this past Wednesday
for the Blue Angels show in Annapolis. On our way back our Yanmar 3GMF
would occasionally make a knocking sound. I'm hoping you guys might know
what could have caused it.

When it happened:
* We were about to enter into the mouth of the Magothy and I was taking
down the main. My wife had the helm and yelled up saying that something
didn't sound right with the engine. She throttled down and when I got back
everything sounded ok. She said that it sounded like it was going to die.
Like it was running out of fuel.
* We kept it running slowly for a bit without issue. Then I tried to speed
us up again. After about 5-10 mins it started making the noise again. To me
it sounded like a loud knocking or banging sound. I immediately reduced
power again and it immediately went away.

Conditions:
* At the time it started occurring we had about 1/8 of a tank of fuel.
* Heavy, choppy waves for a large portion of our trip due to lots of power
boats. However, at the time it occurred, seas were calm.
* At start up after we sailed for a bit the prop had trouble opening and I
had to reduce power a couple of times to get it to open.

Observations:
* I didn't see anything incorrect or worrysome during operation.
* No leaking oil, fuel, or water.
* Racor water separator doesn't show any water in the bowl. A little gunk
in the bottom but not much.
* When power was reduced, everything sounded normal and operated normal.

Thoughts/Questions:
* Could low fuel/dirty fuel/water in fuel make this happen?
* Could this be more of a vibration from the prop not opening properly? If
that's the case, could it be indicative of something in the strut or
cutlass bearing? We have in the past had A LOT of problems with the prop
not opening.
* I did notice that during operation on the way back that occasionally the
undulation of the waves caused some stress. I'm assuming just because of
stresses on the prop.

Today I filled up the tank and started it up in the slip. It started
immediately and didn't sound like anything was wrong. I brought the
throttle up and down and everything sounds absolutely fine. So I'm at a bit
of a loss as to what to check/do. I do know that I still need to change the
oil and I am planning on changing the fuel filters as well.

I did notice that I am able to see the notch in the prop shaft where it
meets the gearbox. There does not seem to be anything on the shaft that
would indicate that it shifted at all though. Is this normal?

Would love some help from some of the yanmar experts on here please.

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Lapping compound is needed to smooth out the surfaces so that they join
properly and provide a good seal. If they aren't smooth, then the
possibility of a leak is far greater. Check out that link I provided on the
servicing of them and it explains it really well.

On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:21 PM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok, so I finally got them freed up. For one I used a monkey wrench and it
> gave after considerable force. The second required a 2' pipe slide into the
> end of my huge monkey wrench and came free with the leverage with no damage
> to anything as far as I can tell. The drums needed scrubbing with a
> non-scratching scouring pad and I re-assembled them with lubricant. One
> drum looked smooth, the other showed a little black and tarnish. I don't
> have any lapping compound so hopefully I don't get any leaks... how
> important is the lapping compound step?
>
> Thanks for all the help guys!
>
> Dan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 25, 2018, at 9:22 PM, G Collins via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on
> the stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.
>
> Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it
> as it made it a lot faster to turn the cone.
>
> Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I
> ground one down to fit the inside nut.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Thanks Rick,
>
> So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both
> seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench
> liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I
> stopped up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively
> down both scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles
> and put a wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with
> a rubber mallet to no avail.
>
> There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with
> anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of
> anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in
> storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe
> trick but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will
> send an update then!
>
> Thanks for all the help guys!
>
> Dan
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dan;
>>
>>
>>
>> The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve –
>> kind of like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.
>>
>>
>>
>> The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug
>> that looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline.
>> There is a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered
>> plug into the tapered body of the through hull.
>>
>>
>>
>> If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove
>> it, just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to
>> soak in a bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet.
>> Neither the nut or the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A
>> sound tap or two will move the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break
>> the bond of the internal corrosion.
>>
>>
>>
>> When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you
>> don’t damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the
>> valve. A smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially
>> what keeps water from leaking around the plug.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
>> C. via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
>> *To:* CnClist 
>> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>>
>>
>>
>> With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a
>> liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances
>> are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a
>> way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the
>> top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the
>> plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total),
>> sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have
>> loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my
>> mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from
>> undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from
>> the removed hose?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Daniel Cormier via CnC-List]

They both appeared very smooth- just black tarnish and small amount of pitting 
around the holes but they didn't appear to be in dire need of lapping or 
grinding. There was no build-up or scoring on the inner drums. The outer drum 
is hard to tell.

Do all of you do a round of lapping when you service these?

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 26, 2018, at 3:32 PM, Kevin Paxton  wrote:
> 
> Lapping compound is needed to smooth out the surfaces so that they join 
> properly and provide a good seal. If they aren't smooth, then the possibility 
> of a leak is far greater. Check out that link I provided on the servicing of 
> them and it explains it really well.
> 
>> On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:21 PM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Ok, so I finally got them freed up. For one I used a monkey wrench and it 
>> gave after considerable force. The second required a 2' pipe slide into the 
>> end of my huge monkey wrench and came free with the leverage with no damage 
>> to anything as far as I can tell. The drums needed scrubbing with a 
>> non-scratching scouring pad and I re-assembled them with lubricant. One drum 
>> looked smooth, the other showed a little black and tarnish. I don't have any 
>> lapping compound so hopefully I don't get any leaks... how important is the 
>> lapping compound step?
>> 
>> Thanks for all the help guys!
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 25, 2018, at 9:22 PM, G Collins via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on 
>>> the stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.
>>> 
>>> Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it 
>>> as it made it a lot faster to turn the cone.
>>> 
>>> Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I 
>>> ground one down to fit the inside nut.
>>> Graham Collins
>>> Secret Plans
>>> C&C 35-III #11
 On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
 Thanks Rick,
 
 So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both 
 seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench 
 liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I 
 stopped up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively 
 down both scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles 
 and put a wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with 
 a rubber mallet to no avail.
 
 There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with 
 anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of 
 anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in 
 storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe 
 trick but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will 
 send an update then!
 
 Thanks for all the help guys!
 
 Dan
 
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Dan;
> 
>  
> 
> The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve – 
> kind of like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.
> 
>  
> 
> The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug 
> that looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the 
> centerline. There is a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds 
> the tapered plug into the tapered body of the through hull.
> 
>  
> 
> If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove 
> it, just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to 
> soak in a bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet. 
> Neither the nut or the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A 
> sound tap or two will move the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break 
> the bond of the internal corrosion.
> 
>  
> 
> When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you 
> don’t damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the 
> valve. A smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is 
> essentially what keeps water from leaking around the plug.
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis 
> C. via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
> 
>  
> 
> With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a 
> liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances 
> are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a 
> way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at 
> the top of the plug when you

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dan

I've only lapped the leaking ones (three of mine).  The others, I periodically 
(every couple of years) put grease nipples on and crank in some waterproof 
grease - Loctite Viperlube (Schooner Industrial in Burnside).

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-26 3:49 PM, Daniel Cormier via CnC-List wrote:
They both appeared very smooth- just black tarnish and small amount of pitting 
around the holes but they didn't appear to be in dire need of lapping or 
grinding. There was no build-up or scoring on the inner drums. The outer drum 
is hard to tell.

Do all of you do a round of lapping when you service these?

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On May 26, 2018, at 3:32 PM, Kevin Paxton 
mailto:kpax...@paxdesigns.com>> wrote:

Lapping compound is needed to smooth out the surfaces so that they join 
properly and provide a good seal. If they aren't smooth, then the possibility 
of a leak is far greater. Check out that link I provided on the servicing of 
them and it explains it really well.

On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:21 PM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok, so I finally got them freed up. For one I used a monkey wrench and it gave 
after considerable force. The second required a 2' pipe slide into the end of 
my huge monkey wrench and came free with the leverage with no damage to 
anything as far as I can tell. The drums needed scrubbing with a non-scratching 
scouring pad and I re-assembled them with lubricant. One drum looked smooth, 
the other showed a little black and tarnish. I don't have any lapping compound 
so hopefully I don't get any leaks... how important is the lapping compound 
step?

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On May 25, 2018, at 9:22 PM, G Collins via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on the 
stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.

Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it as it 
made it a lot faster to turn the cone.

Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I 
ground one down to fit the inside nut.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks Rick,

So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both 
seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench 
liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I stopped 
up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively down both 
scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles and put a 
wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with a rubber 
mallet to no avail.

There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with 
anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of 
anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in 
storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe trick 
but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will send an 
update then!

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Dan;

The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve – kind of 
like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.

The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug that 
looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline. There is 
a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered plug into the 
tapered body of the through hull.

If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove it, 
just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to soak in a 
bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet. Neither the nut or 
the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A sound tap or two will move 
the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break the bond of the internal 
corrosion.

When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you don’t 
damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the valve. A 
smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially what keeps 
water from leaking around the plug.

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a liquid 
penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances are most of 
it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a way to plug the 
seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the top of the pl

Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Long short. If the head has the controller in it, such as a ST4000, ST4000+, 
ST6000 ...
when it starts acting up place a cloth over it and soak it in ice water for a 
minute or so.
If the unit starts working normally you likely have a component overheating.


I have fixed two by noticing where the circuit board was discolored and 
replacing
the component. One was the three pin voltage regulator and the other was the
wire out to the wheel drive.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1





From: Tom Buscaglia  

Well, yesterday, as we left our overnight anchorage, I did a full reset of the 
autopilot.  Followed by the linearization that only showed a 3 degree 
deviation. This indicates there are no issues with the compass being influenced 
by and ferrous interference.  A few of the rudder setting were way off and I 
was hoping that would resolve any issues.  One thing I did notice is that the 
pilot was not receiving the GPS info from my e7 MFD.    
 
Once everything was done we set out.  Things seemed ok for a while.  The 
excessive course hunting stopped and she was holding course  fine.  No circuit 
breaker issues either.  Then she just started to wander to port...  Restart 
would settle things down, but in a few minutes she would go off on me again.  
it just deteriorated from there so we went manual from there. 
 
When I installed the MFD myself a few years ago I used the appropriate Gtalk ti 
Gtalk ng converter and all of the G60 instruments show up on the MFD.  but I 
didn?t go at all into the interface.   
 
At this point I suspect there is a software version mismatch.  I found the 
update .iso  that will load the update for the pilot onto it via the MFD.  I?ll 
need to get home to download it and see if the helps. 
 
The below deck conversion looks like something I may consider either doing 
myself or using my checkbook.  But I better get the Pilot?s brain working right 
first... 
 
Tom Buscaglia 
S/V Alera  
1990 C&C 37+/40 
Vashon WA 
P 206.463.9200 
C 305.409.3660 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Kevin,

Fill the fuel tank with 6 to 10 gallons of fresh fuel, try it out, and get
back to us.  Check your racor filter for air.  Low fuel/air in the
line/water in the line can all cause rough operation.  These Yanmars have a
lot of backlash in the engine and when you get rough operations the clutch
plate springs can bang.  If you have a loose/broken/soft engine mount it
can allow the engine to bang around pretty good too.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sat, May 26, 2018, 2:30 PM Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey Everyone,
>
> Well we were lucky enough to be able to take out our 34 this past
> Wednesday for the Blue Angels show in Annapolis. On our way back our Yanmar
> 3GMF would occasionally make a knocking sound. I'm hoping you guys might
> know what could have caused it.
>
> When it happened:
> * We were about to enter into the mouth of the Magothy and I was taking
> down the main. My wife had the helm and yelled up saying that something
> didn't sound right with the engine. She throttled down and when I got back
> everything sounded ok. She said that it sounded like it was going to die.
> Like it was running out of fuel.
> * We kept it running slowly for a bit without issue. Then I tried to speed
> us up again. After about 5-10 mins it started making the noise again. To me
> it sounded like a loud knocking or banging sound. I immediately reduced
> power again and it immediately went away.
>
> Conditions:
> * At the time it started occurring we had about 1/8 of a tank of fuel.
> * Heavy, choppy waves for a large portion of our trip due to lots of power
> boats. However, at the time it occurred, seas were calm.
> * At start up after we sailed for a bit the prop had trouble opening and I
> had to reduce power a couple of times to get it to open.
>
> Observations:
> * I didn't see anything incorrect or worrysome during operation.
> * No leaking oil, fuel, or water.
> * Racor water separator doesn't show any water in the bowl. A little gunk
> in the bottom but not much.
> * When power was reduced, everything sounded normal and operated normal.
>
> Thoughts/Questions:
> * Could low fuel/dirty fuel/water in fuel make this happen?
> * Could this be more of a vibration from the prop not opening properly? If
> that's the case, could it be indicative of something in the strut or
> cutlass bearing? We have in the past had A LOT of problems with the prop
> not opening.
> * I did notice that during operation on the way back that occasionally the
> undulation of the waves caused some stress. I'm assuming just because of
> stresses on the prop.
>
> Today I filled up the tank and started it up in the slip. It started
> immediately and didn't sound like anything was wrong. I brought the
> throttle up and down and everything sounds absolutely fine. So I'm at a bit
> of a loss as to what to check/do. I do know that I still need to change the
> oil and I am planning on changing the fuel filters as well.
>
> I did notice that I am able to see the notch in the prop shaft where it
> meets the gearbox. There does not seem to be anything on the shaft that
> would indicate that it shifted at all though. Is this normal?
>
> Would love some help from some of the yanmar experts on here please.
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Yea I did that today and started it up and it sounded fine. However I
didn't put it in gear or take it out of the slip. The racor was full and I
didn't see any water in it either.

Now it does vibrate pretty good under operation. I looked at the engine
mounts though and none seemed to be cracked or anything. What should the
mounts look/feel like?  How much vibration while running should it have?

On Sat, May 26, 2018, 6:50 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Kevin,
>
> Fill the fuel tank with 6 to 10 gallons of fresh fuel, try it out, and get
> back to us.  Check your racor filter for air.  Low fuel/air in the
> line/water in the line can all cause rough operation.  These Yanmars have a
> lot of backlash in the engine and when you get rough operations the clutch
> plate springs can bang.  If you have a loose/broken/soft engine mount it
> can allow the engine to bang around pretty good too.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Sat, May 26, 2018, 2:30 PM Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey Everyone,
>>
>> Well we were lucky enough to be able to take out our 34 this past
>> Wednesday for the Blue Angels show in Annapolis. On our way back our Yanmar
>> 3GMF would occasionally make a knocking sound. I'm hoping you guys might
>> know what could have caused it.
>>
>> When it happened:
>> * We were about to enter into the mouth of the Magothy and I was taking
>> down the main. My wife had the helm and yelled up saying that something
>> didn't sound right with the engine. She throttled down and when I got back
>> everything sounded ok. She said that it sounded like it was going to die.
>> Like it was running out of fuel.
>> * We kept it running slowly for a bit without issue. Then I tried to
>> speed us up again. After about 5-10 mins it started making the noise again.
>> To me it sounded like a loud knocking or banging sound. I immediately
>> reduced power again and it immediately went away.
>>
>> Conditions:
>> * At the time it started occurring we had about 1/8 of a tank of fuel.
>> * Heavy, choppy waves for a large portion of our trip due to lots of
>> power boats. However, at the time it occurred, seas were calm.
>> * At start up after we sailed for a bit the prop had trouble opening and
>> I had to reduce power a couple of times to get it to open.
>>
>> Observations:
>> * I didn't see anything incorrect or worrysome during operation.
>> * No leaking oil, fuel, or water.
>> * Racor water separator doesn't show any water in the bowl. A little gunk
>> in the bottom but not much.
>> * When power was reduced, everything sounded normal and operated normal.
>>
>> Thoughts/Questions:
>> * Could low fuel/dirty fuel/water in fuel make this happen?
>> * Could this be more of a vibration from the prop not opening properly?
>> If that's the case, could it be indicative of something in the strut or
>> cutlass bearing? We have in the past had A LOT of problems with the prop
>> not opening.
>> * I did notice that during operation on the way back that occasionally
>> the undulation of the waves caused some stress. I'm assuming just because
>> of stresses on the prop.
>>
>> Today I filled up the tank and started it up in the slip. It started
>> immediately and didn't sound like anything was wrong. I brought the
>> throttle up and down and everything sounds absolutely fine. So I'm at a bit
>> of a loss as to what to check/do. I do know that I still need to change the
>> oil and I am planning on changing the fuel filters as well.
>>
>> I did notice that I am able to see the notch in the prop shaft where it
>> meets the gearbox. There does not seem to be anything on the shaft that
>> would indicate that it shifted at all though. Is this normal?
>>
>> Would love some help from some of the yanmar experts on here please.
>>
>> Kevin Paxton
>> '82 34 #473
>> Japhys Spirit
>> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anyone Have A Stack Pack?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Had a chance to take some videos of the sail pack operation.  I'll try to
get some of the main going up and down but it is a bit of chaos with only 2
people.

https://youtu.be/w6d49jRktDw

https://youtu.be/tdJpDzxwBRI

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Wed, May 16, 2018, 3:10 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Has anyone installed a Stack Pack (
> http://www.doylesails.com/stackpack/index.html) or similar? Pros? Cons?
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Hull lines/se

[tom hoffmann via CnC-List]

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Hull lines/Sections, 41

[tom hoffmann via CnC-List]

My apologies for the previous note, sent in error.

I am searching for lines/sections for the 41 and hoping someone may be of help.

Thank you.

Tom
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray