Ok, so I finally got them freed up. For one I used a monkey wrench and it gave 
after considerable force. The second required a 2' pipe slide into the end of 
my huge monkey wrench and came free with the leverage with no damage to 
anything as far as I can tell. The drums needed scrubbing with a non-scratching 
scouring pad and I re-assembled them with lubricant. One drum looked smooth, 
the other showed a little black and tarnish. I don't have any lapping compound 
so hopefully I don't get any leaks... how important is the lapping compound 
step?

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 25, 2018, at 9:22 PM, G Collins via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on the 
> stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.
> 
> Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it as 
> it made it a lot faster to turn the cone.
> 
> Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I 
> ground one down to fit the inside nut.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>> On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>> Thanks Rick,
>> 
>> So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both 
>> seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench 
>> liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I 
>> stopped up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively 
>> down both scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles 
>> and put a wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with a 
>> rubber mallet to no avail.
>> 
>> There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with 
>> anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of 
>> anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in 
>> storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe trick 
>> but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will send an 
>> update then!
>> 
>> Thanks for all the help guys!
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> Dan;
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve – kind 
>>> of like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug that 
>>> looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline. 
>>> There is a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered 
>>> plug into the tapered body of the through hull.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove 
>>> it, just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to 
>>> soak in a bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet. 
>>> Neither the nut or the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A 
>>> sound tap or two will move the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break 
>>> the bond of the internal corrosion.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you don’t 
>>> damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the valve. A 
>>> smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially what 
>>> keeps water from leaking around the plug.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis 
>>> C. via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
>>> To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a 
>>> liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances 
>>> are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a 
>>> way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the 
>>> top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the 
>>> plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total), 
>>> sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have 
>>> loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my 
>>> mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from 
>>> undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from 
>>> the removed hose?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
>>> outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it 
>>> in the top?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
>>> damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting 
>>> in there and doing it's thing...
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
>>> real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. 
>>> They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well 
>>> adhered to the hull.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Thanks guys, will update with progress!
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
>>> 
>>> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Dan,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I 
>>> then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the 
>>> handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I 
>>> was able to work them open and closed.
>>> 
>>> /J
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan <dgcorm...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit 
>>> drain hoses.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> photos on google drive:
>>> 
>>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
>>> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get 
>>> them to budge.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement 
>>> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
>>> cockpit drains?
>>> 
>>> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> What should I do?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> 
>>> Breakaweigh
>>> 
>>> C&C44
>>> 
>>> Halifax, NS
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
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>> 
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