Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Patrick
I had to resort to PB Blaster and a pipe wrench to get mine off, it 
chewed the crap out of the chrome plating on the donut but did 
eventually come off.  A couple of 2x4s and clamps were used to 
immobilize the rudder.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-04-20 12:45 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List wrote:

I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder.

The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust 
bearing in the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set 
screws and am attempting to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the 
rudder propped up (enough that that delrin bearing under the donut is 
free spinning).


This is the donut pictured on Wally's page:
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/

He got it off with just an oil filter wrench + exhaust hose on past 
occasions, and later with that strap wrench.  I've already applied far 
more force than a strap wrench with no luck. :(


I had planned to have the yard (Seaview) help with this, but 
apparently they have plenty of fiberglass guys but not enough 
mechanical guys, and are backlogged on anything mechanical. So if I 
want this to go faster I can keep trying to do it myself. And saving 
money by not having them bang away at it for $105/hour is probably 
good anyway. Though honestly I would happily do that now if they could 
get it loose.


I know Frank of S/V Cool Change had a bear of a time with the set 
screws: 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2007-March/009523.html 
  (but I guess the donut wasn't a problem?)


And I know another owner who used a huge pipe wrench with some 
padding, and yard assistance, but ended up damaging it and needing to 
get a new one.


Things I've tried:
- PB Blaster, every day for 4-5 days, around the top, into the set 
screw holes, and around the bottom.

- Loctite Freeze + Release
- oil filter wrench with rubber pieces to grip
- threading a bolt into the set screw holes and hammering on that - 
quickly abandoned this because it started to bend the screws and I 
realized it would strip the set screw holes.

- C clamps
- Heat gun (I don't have a torch - however I don't think heat will be 
very successful because the mated parts are both stainless steel)
- Large hose clamp tightened around my rubber gripper ring and 
hammering on the hose clamp screw. I really thought this was the 
genius idea that would finally work. Nothing budged, even with heavy 
pounding. But the hose clamp does the best job of pressing my rubber 
gripper onto the donut and had no slippage.


Is there anything I'm missing? Has anyone else had this hard a time 
getting the donut off, or found anything else that worked?


The Edson radial drive bolts are also seized, but I have some more 
things to try there still, and as last resort it can be cut off and 
order a new one ($500).


If I can get the rudder out I might also consider changing the 
stuffing box, because that is also seized (looks original and probably 
hasn't been adjusted in 5 years).


-Patrick
1984 C&C Landfall 38
Violet Hour, Seattle, WA



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Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

I'll checked Hodges Marine just now - they are a little more than Defender. 
As for Fred - he can jump in if I'm wrong but I've seen a few of his messages 
where he said he couldn't beat the sales prices on similar items. 
Mark

--
 Mark Bodnar
CS30 - Prosecco


> On Apr 19, 2016, at 8:24 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Mark did you check with fred about pricing?  Or hodges marine.  Hodges 
> beat defender on my radar/chart plotter combo and recently beat them on a 
> Raritan fresh head.  And that was defender's spring sale price. 
> 
> Danny
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>  Original message 
> From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" 
> Date: 4/19/2016 6:02 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
> Subject: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install
> 
> 
> An autopilot has been high on my list as the next big upgrade.  I missed 
> the boat show special, figured I had too many other jobs to complete so 
> I was going to let it go.
> But I just saw that Raymarine EV-100 autopilot is on sale - plus they 
> are Raymarine is offering a $300 prepaid Amex card for rebate.
> 
> Canadian dollar has rebounded a bit (but Canadian pricing has not kept 
> pace) so buying from Defender would save me another $250 even after 
> paying for shipping.
> 
> In the end I can get the autopilot for ~$1600 cdn -- think I'm going to 
> go for it.  Does anyone know if there are extra duties on one crossing 
> the border?
> I've read the comments about where to install the control unit.  Any 
> other advice?
> 
> Also planning on installing solar panel (120W) -- figure total wire run 
> of 20 ft - online calculator says 10 gauge wire should work. Any extra 
> thoughts? Like what should I use to fuse the panel (or fuse the autopilot).
> 
> I'd like to order everything at once from Defender and minimize shipping 
> costs.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mark
> 
> -- 
> 
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>- George Santayana
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[wwadjourn]

  

Is it possible that a PO doubled up the set screws?  Bill WalkerCnC 36
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet


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Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

That was my question, too.

 

Mine came off with just the use of a large rubber strap wrench.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 7:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

 

Is it possible that a PO doubled up the set screws?  

Bill Walker

CnC 36

 

Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet

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Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

I can't for Fred, but I can speak for myselfI researched autopilot units 
until I was blue in the face and initially decided to go with Fed because he 
was on this listhowever, once I received all the parts and began assembly, 
I came to rely upon Fred's advice an helpful suggestions to the point where I 
don't think I could have done it without him...he took the time to listen to my 
questions (posed in a not-so-clear fashion I'm sure)...and offered suggestions; 
he was insightful about my particular boat because he has one (I have a 37, 
Fred has a 38)...and he was able to discern when there was a real problem from 
when I just wasn't understanding the written directions; so, if price is 
the only object, then shop on...but if you want the unit to work, call Fred 
 
 

 


Richard
1985 C&C 37; CB Ohio River, Mile 596;
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Mark Bodnar 
Sent: Wed, Apr 20, 2016 7:18 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install



I'll checked Hodges Marine just now - they are a little more than Defender. 
As for Fred - he can jump in if I'm wrong but I've seen a few of his messages 
where he said he couldn't beat the sales prices on similar items. 
Mark

--

 Mark Bodnar
CS30 - Prosecco






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Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Take a small drill bit or ask that fits easily in the hole and " measure" how 
deep the set screw holes are and you should be able to tell.  If so and you 
can't get them out, drill them out and re tap set screws holes if needed with 
slightly larger.  Good luck.  
Bill Walker

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, April 20, 2016 Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:

That was my question, too.

 

Mine came off with just the use of a large rubber strap wrench.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 7:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

 

Is it possible that a PO doubled up the set screws?  

Bill Walker

CnC 36

 

Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet

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Re: Stus-List Kent Narrows Water Depth

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Last year I could get through no problem with my 5-1/2 foot or so draft. I 
never tried low tide, but mid tide or better was fine.
I haven’t tried this year yet. I think I saw the dredge barges out there at one 
point, but I really don’t know what they did. How soon are you going through?
I might be able to do a survey this weekend, but failing that I wouldn’t try 
except near high tide.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 14:02
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kent Narrows Water Depth

There was a recent post on SailNet that said it was only 4 feet.

Joel

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 1:57 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have been asked to help deliver a donated C&C 36 from the Sassafras River 
(Georgetown Basin) to St. Michaels.
I looked up the specifications on the web site and get a draft of 5’11”. When I 
last went through the Narrows, I was marginal with my 5 foot draft.
Are we in trouble? Plus high tides are around 5:00 for the next few days….
Joe, do you know if they have done any dredging recently?

Gary Nylander
St. Michaels

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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement/repair

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Water in the rudder seems to be really common. My rudder was rebuilt before I 
bought the boat.  I think surveyors tend to overdo this as my metal also looked 
fine once the rudder was opened up.  I am curious about the foam in Josh’s 
pictures.  I would have thought it would keep water from accumulating inside if 
it was closed cell foam.  Was it actually wet?  Also, I discovered last weekend 
that when my was rebuilt, they did not fill the interior with foam because we 
saw water weeping out of the trailing edge and when we drilled into the middle, 
a large stream of water drained out for about 15 minutes.  I am going to have 
the yard open a hole and fill the interior with foam.  The alternative to foam 
would be to drill a small hole every fall and drain it, then plug.Thoughts? 
 Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Apr 19, 2016, at 9:41 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Great shots and very educational Josh - thanks for sharing.  Metal looked to 
> be in remarkably good shape.
> 
> John
> 
>> On Apr 19, 2016, at 9:08 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks for sharing the pictures Joh!  Very interesting.
>> 
>> Rick
>> Paikea 37+
>> Poulsbo, WA
>> 
>>> On Apr 18, 2016, at 9:17 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> My rebuild was ~$5k.  Seeing what the professionals do was definitely an 
>>> education.  Not hard, just a lot of work.
>>> 
>>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA 
>>> 
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>> 
>>> On Apr 18, 2016 10:11 PM, "Eugene Fodor via CnC-List" 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> Trying to get an idea of the cost for rudder replacement or repair.  The 
>>> boat I'm close to purchasing has some brown drainage from the rudder after 
>>> drilling the bottom which tells me there is some corrosion in the steel 
>>> webbing. I'm handy unsure if this is better left to a marina shop or not 
>>> salvageable long term. Thoughts?
>>> 
>>> Gene
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  

Richard,
Thanks for the advice.  I may go that way.  I was thinking my
install should be pretty simple with a wheel pilot - but maybe I
just don't know what I'm getting into?!?!?

Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2016-04-20 8:59 AM, Richard N. Bush
  via CnC-List wrote:

I can't for Fred, but I can speak
  for myselfI researched autopilot units until I was blue in
  the face and initially decided to go with Fed because he was
  on this listhowever, once I received all the parts and
  began assembly, I came to rely upon Fred's advice an helpful
  suggestions to the point where I don't think I could have done
  it without him...he took the time to listen to my questions
  (posed in a not-so-clear fashion I'm sure)...and offered
  suggestions; he was insightful about my particular boat
  because he has one (I have a 37, Fred has a 38)...and he was
  able to discern when there was a real problem from when I just
  wasn't understanding the written directions; so, if price
  is the only object, then shop on...but if you want the unit to
  work, call Fred  
 

 


Richard
1985 C&C 37; CB Ohio River, Mile 596;
  Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
  502-584-7255
  
 

 

-Original
  Message-
  From: Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list 
  Cc: Mark Bodnar 
  Sent: Wed, Apr 20, 2016 7:18 am
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel
  install
  
  

  I'll checked Hodges Marine just now - they are a
little more than Defender. 
  As for Fred - he can jump in
if I'm wrong but I've seen a few of his messages where
he said he couldn't beat the sales prices on similar
items. 
  Mark

--
 Mark Bodnar
CS30 - Prosecco


  
  
  

  
  ___
  
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  members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our
  costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Gee, Richard; I’m speechless…   :^)   Thanks!

Mark — Defender’s current public price on the EV-100 wheel pilot system is LESS 
than my dealer’s cost right now.  I’m hoping that means that Raymarine is 
coming out with a newer (more powerful?) version, but don’t hold your breath.  
They’re pretty tight-lipped about upcoming products.

If anyone on the list is looking for a wheel pilot, now’s the time to get one — 
$1159.99 plus a $300.00 rebate.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 20, 2016, at 6:59 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I can't for Fred, but I can speak for myselfI researched autopilot units 
> until I was blue in the face and initially decided to go with Fed because he 
> was on this listhowever, once I received all the parts and began 
> assembly, I came to rely upon Fred's advice an helpful suggestions to the 
> point where I don't think I could have done it without him...he took the time 
> to listen to my questions (posed in a not-so-clear fashion I'm sure)...and 
> offered suggestions; he was insightful about my particular boat because he 
> has one (I have a 37, Fred has a 38)...and he was able to discern when there 
> was a real problem from when I just wasn't understanding the written 
> directions; so, if price is the only object, then shop on...but if you 
> want the unit to work, call Fred  
> 
> 
> Richard
> 1985 C&C 37; CB Ohio River, Mile 596;
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Mark Bodnar via CnC-List  >
> To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Mark Bodnar mailto:drbod...@accesswave.ca>>
> Sent: Wed, Apr 20, 2016 7:18 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install
> 
> I'll checked Hodges Marine just now - they are a little more than Defender. 
> As for Fred - he can jump in if I'm wrong but I've seen a few of his messages 
> where he said he couldn't beat the sales prices on similar items. 
> Mark
> 
> --
>  Mark Bodnar
> CS30 - Prosecco

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Re: Stus-List Kent Narrows Water Depth

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

From the USCG:
USCG 5th District 'Notices to Mariners'

Kent Narrows Shoaling...

MD ? CHESAPEAKE BAY- CHESTER RIVER ? KENT ISLAND NARROWS NORTH APPROACH - 
SHOALING
Shoaling has been reported in Kent Island Narrows North Approach Channel. 
Depths less of less than 4 feet have been reported between Kent Island Narrows 
North Approach LT 4 (LLNR-26425) and Kent Island Narrows North Approach LT 6 
(LLNR-26435) on the red side of the channel. Vessels transiting the Kent Island 
Narrows North Approach Channel should exercise caution.
Chart 12272
·

4 feet? OUCH! It sounds like you might have to squeeze by on the green side.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 08:10
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kent Narrows Water Depth

Last year I could get through no problem with my 5-1/2 foot or so draft. I 
never tried low tide, but mid tide or better was fine.
I haven’t tried this year yet. I think I saw the dredge barges out there at one 
point, but I really don’t know what they did. How soon are you going through?
I might be able to do a survey this weekend, but failing that I wouldn’t try 
except near high tide.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 14:02
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kent Narrows Water Depth

There was a recent post on SailNet that said it was only 4 feet.

Joel

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 1:57 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have been asked to help deliver a donated C&C 36 from the Sassafras River 
(Georgetown Basin) to St. Michaels.
I looked up the specifications on the web site and get a draft of 5’11”. When I 
last went through the Narrows, I was marginal with my 5 foot draft.
Are we in trouble? Plus high tides are around 5:00 for the next few days….
Joe, do you know if they have done any dredging recently?

Gary Nylander
St. Michaels

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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

OMG!

I need an Autopilot but I think my boat is too heavy for a wheel pilot.  
However, at that cost it might work as way to let go of the helm for 
short periods of time!


I was going to wait and do a below decks autopilot but this could buy me 
some time maybe.  Any thoughts?  its a 40 footer with 17,250 lbs of 
displacement.  I would imagine that would be a bit higher with our stuff 
on board.


Danny


On 4/20/2016 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:

Gee, Richard; I’m speechless…   :^)   Thanks!

Mark — Defender’s current public price on the EV-100 wheel pilot 
system is /LESS/ than my dealer’s cost right now.  I’m hoping that 
means that Raymarine is coming out with a newer (more powerful?) 
version, but don’t hold your breath.  They’re pretty tight-lipped 
about upcoming products.


If anyone on the list is looking for a wheel pilot, now’s the time to 
get one — $1159.99 plus a $300.00 rebate.


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 20, 2016, at 6:59 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Ican't for Fred, but I can speak for myselfI researched autopilot 
units until I was blue in the face and initially decided to go with 
Fed because he was on this listhowever, once I received all the 
parts and began assembly, I came to rely upon Fred's advice an 
helpful suggestions to the point where I don't think I could have 
done it without him...he took the time to listen to my questions 
(posed in a not-so-clear fashion I'm sure)...and offered suggestions; 
he was insightful about my particular boat because he has one (I have 
a 37, Fred has a 38)...and he was able to discern when there was a 
real problem from when I just wasn't understanding the written 
directions; so, if price is the only object, then shop on...but 
if you want the unit to work, call Fred



Richard
1985 C&C 37; CB Ohio River, Mile 596;
Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Mark Bodnar via CnC-List >

To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Mark Bodnar mailto:drbod...@accesswave.ca>>
Sent: Wed, Apr 20, 2016 7:18 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

I'll checked Hodges Marine just now - they are a little more than 
Defender.
As for Fred - he can jump in if I'm wrong but I've seen a few of his 
messages where he said he couldn't beat the sales prices on similar 
items.

Mark

--
 Mark Bodnar
CS30 - Prosecco




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greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[IRVIN via CnC-List]

I have a 27-III.I have drilled and tapped holes - top and bottom- to allow 
water to drain in the fall. Inserts go in about now. System has worked for 20+ 
years.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 20, 2016, at 8:05 AM, William Walker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Take a small drill bit or ask that fits easily in the hole and " measure" how 
> deep the set screw holes are and you should be able to tell.  If so and you 
> can't get them out, drill them out and re tap set screws holes if needed with 
> slightly larger.  Good luck.  
> Bill Walker
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> 
> 
> On Wednesday, April 20, 2016 Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> That was my question, too.
> 
>  
> 
> Mine came off with just the use of a large rubber strap wrench.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Washington, NC
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 7:32 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal
> 
>  
> 
> Is it possible that a PO doubled up the set screws?  
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
>  
> Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Depth transducer troubleshooting

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I have a new Raymarine i50 depth display connected to a D800- P17 
retractable transducer.  Boat was splashed yesterday. The depth display 
reads LAST and three dashes where the depth should be displayed. 
Obviously, it is not getting the information from the transducer. 
Raymarine's technical help consists of: "buy another transducer and plug 
it in to see if you have a bad transducer or cable". Sadly, that is more 
troubleshooting information than they provide in the manual! I just 
called Raymarine tech support and talked to one of their installers. 
That was all he had for advice. I was looking for measurements I might 
take. Resistance between the three leads? Voltages? Waveforms? I have 
good test equipment and know how to use it.  The guy at Raymarine is an 
installer, not an electronics tech. Does anybody have even some basic 
values to test the transducer?


Bill Bina



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Re: Stus-List Kent Narrows Water Depth

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Thanks. We were thinking about tomorrow. Now we are thinking about next week 
because the wind is forecast to be 10-15 from the South, which makes it less 
fun. With 6 feet of draft, we are thinking about going around, but would love 
to see if we could make it through, so eagerly await your survey.

 

Gary

30-1 with ‘only’ 5 feet.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 8:10 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kent Narrows Water Depth

 

Last year I could get through no problem with my 5-1/2 foot or so draft. I 
never tried low tide, but mid tide or better was fine.

I haven’t tried this year yet. I think I saw the dredge barges out there at one 
point, but I really don’t know what they did. How soon are you going through?

I might be able to do a survey this weekend, but failing that I wouldn’t try 
except near high tide.

Joe

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 14:02
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kent Narrows Water Depth

 

There was a recent post on SailNet that said it was only 4 feet.

 

Joel

 

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 1:57 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have been asked to help deliver a donated C&C 36 from the Sassafras River 
(Georgetown Basin) to St. Michaels.

I looked up the specifications on the web site and get a draft of 5’11”. When I 
last went through the Narrows, I was marginal with my 5 foot draft.

Are we in trouble? Plus high tides are around 5:00 for the next few days….

Joe, do you know if they have done any dredging recently?

 

Gary Nylander

St. Michaels


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greatly appreciated!





 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

My sentiments exactly.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 8:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

 

I can't for Fred, but I can speak for myselfI researched autopilot units 
until I was blue in the face and initially decided to go with Fed because he 
was on this listhowever, once I received all the parts and began assembly, 
I came to rely upon Fred's advice an helpful suggestions to the point where I 
don't think I could have done it without him...he took the time to listen to my 
questions (posed in a not-so-clear fashion I'm sure)...and offered suggestions; 
he was insightful about my particular boat because he has one (I have a 37, 
Fred has a 38)...and he was able to discern when there was a real problem from 
when I just wasn't understanding the written directions; so, if price is 
the only object, then shop on...but if you want the unit to work, call Fred 
  

 

 

Richard

1985 C&C 37; CB Ohio River, Mile 596;
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Mark Bodnar 
Sent: Wed, Apr 20, 2016 7:18 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

I'll checked Hodges Marine just now - they are a little more than Defender. 

As for Fred - he can jump in if I'm wrong but I've seen a few of his messages 
where he said he couldn't beat the sales prices on similar items. 

Mark

--

 Mark Bodnar

CS30 - Prosecco

 

 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I know they rate these autopilots by weight, as they have to have something
to scale them by, but I think what is more important is how well balanced
your rudder is. For instance, if you had a 20 foot catboat with an
unbalanced barn door hanging out the back, you could burn up one of those
autopilots in a day!

My boat is actually around 21000# in the slings, but the rudder is so well
balanced you can steer with your fingertips. Or not at all. My ST 4000+
works beautifully 10 years later.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 8:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

 

OMG!

I need an Autopilot but I think my boat is too heavy for a wheel pilot.
However, at that cost it might work as way to let go of the helm for short
periods of time!

I was going to wait and do a below decks autopilot but this could buy me
some time maybe.  Any thoughts?  its a 40 footer with 17,250 lbs of
displacement.  I would imagine that would be a bit higher with our stuff on
board.

Danny

 

On 4/20/2016 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:

Gee, Richard; I'm speechless.   :^)   Thanks! 

 

Mark - Defender's current public price on the EV-100 wheel pilot system is
LESS than my dealer's cost right now.  I'm hoping that means that Raymarine
is coming out with a newer (more powerful?) version, but don't hold your
breath.  They're pretty tight-lipped about upcoming products.

 

If anyone on the list is looking for a wheel pilot, now's the time to get
one - $1159.99 plus a $300.00 rebate.

 

- Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Apr 20, 2016, at 6:59 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List
 wrote:

 

I can't for Fred, but I can speak for myselfI researched autopilot units
until I was blue in the face and initially decided to go with Fed because he
was on this listhowever, once I received all the parts and began
assembly, I came to rely upon Fred's advice an helpful suggestions to the
point where I don't think I could have done it without him...he took the
time to listen to my questions (posed in a not-so-clear fashion I'm
sure)...and offered suggestions; he was insightful about my particular boat
because he has one (I have a 37, Fred has a 38)...and he was able to discern
when there was a real problem from when I just wasn't understanding the
written directions; so, if price is the only object, then shop on...but
if you want the unit to work, call Fred   

 

 

Richard

1985 C&C 37; CB Ohio River, Mile 596;
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Mark Bodnar 
Sent: Wed, Apr 20, 2016 7:18 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

I'll checked Hodges Marine just now - they are a little more than Defender. 

As for Fred - he can jump in if I'm wrong but I've seen a few of his
messages where he said he couldn't beat the sales prices on similar items. 

Mark

--

 Mark Bodnar

CS30 - Prosecco

 






___
 
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!

 

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Danny,

The wheel pilot can handle my 35 in up to about 12 knots of wind.  If you
want it to steer while you raise the main or get a drink, it will do.  If
you want it on long trips, save your money.

Fred hooked me up with an EV200 to connect to an existing RAM on the
Hylas.  It steered for 900 miles through some nasty weather!

I second Fred for tech support!  He really knows what he is talking about.
Don't save $50 dollars and lose out on his expertise!

Joel

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 9:43 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I know they rate these autopilots by weight, as they have to have
> something to scale them by, but I think what is more important is how well
> balanced your rudder is. For instance, if you had a 20 foot catboat with an
> unbalanced barn door hanging out the back, you could burn up one of those
> autopilots in a day!
>
> My boat is actually around 21000# in the slings, but the rudder is so well
> balanced you can steer with your fingertips. Or not at all. My ST 4000+
> works beautifully 10 years later.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Danny
> Haughey via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 20, 2016 8:44 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Danny Haughey
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install
>
>
>
> OMG!
>
> I need an Autopilot but I think my boat is too heavy for a wheel pilot.
> However, at that cost it might work as way to let go of the helm for short
> periods of time!
>
> I was going to wait and do a below decks autopilot but this could buy me
> some time maybe.  Any thoughts?  its a 40 footer with 17,250 lbs of
> displacement.  I would imagine that would be a bit higher with our stuff on
> board.
>
> Danny
>
>
>
> On 4/20/2016 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Gee, Richard; I’m speechless…   :^)   Thanks!
>
>
>
> Mark — Defender’s current public price on the EV-100 wheel pilot system is
> *LESS* than my dealer’s cost right now.  I’m hoping that means that
> Raymarine is coming out with a newer (more powerful?) version, but don’t
> hold your breath.  They’re pretty tight-lipped about upcoming products.
>
>
>
> If anyone on the list is looking for a wheel pilot, now’s the time to get
> one — $1159.99 plus a $300.00 rebate.
>
>
>
> — Fred
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
>
> On Apr 20, 2016, at 6:59 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> I can't for Fred, but I can speak for myselfI researched autopilot
> units until I was blue in the face and initially decided to go with Fed
> because he was on this listhowever, once I received all the parts and
> began assembly, I came to rely upon Fred's advice an helpful suggestions to
> the point where I don't think I could have done it without him...he took
> the time to listen to my questions (posed in a not-so-clear fashion I'm
> sure)...and offered suggestions; he was insightful about my particular boat
> because he has one (I have a 37, Fred has a 38)...and he was able to
> discern when there was a real problem from when I just wasn't understanding
> the written directions; so, if price is the only object, then shop
> on...but if you want the unit to work, call Fred
>
>
>
>
>
> Richard
>
> 1985 C&C 37; CB Ohio River, Mile 596;
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Mark Bodnar 
> Sent: Wed, Apr 20, 2016 7:18 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install
>
> I'll checked Hodges Marine just now - they are a little more than
> Defender.
>
> As for Fred - he can jump in if I'm wrong but I've seen a few of his
> messages where he said he couldn't beat the sales prices on similar items.
>
> Mark
>
> --
>
>  Mark Bodnar
>
> CS30 - Prosecco
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Holes in my bulkhead

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hahah thanks Martin.  Sounds like filling the holes with similar wood is the 
way to go.  

Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C&C 30 mki
New York 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 20, 2016, at 12:26 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Holes in my bulkhead (Martin DeYoung)
>   2.  Rudder replacement/repair (Rick Rohwer)
>   3. Re:  Rudder replacement/repair (John Pennie)
>   4.  Rudder collar "donut" removal (Patrick Davin)
>   5. Re:  Rudder collar "donut" removal (Chuck S)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2016 01:05:40 +
> From: Martin DeYoung 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Holes in my bulkhead
> Message-ID: <23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08fa2...@dmi3.dmi.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Ryan,
> 
> If I had similar openings in a bulkhead on Calypso I would follow my usual 
> overkill route and:
> Square up the edges of the openings
> Fab an opening filler from similar plywood
> Taper the edges of the opening and the filler piece
> Filled epoxy the interface between the opening and the filler
> Epoxy/glass cloth/tape around edges
> Fair with epoxy/micro balloon or similar easy to sand filler
> Prime/paint
> 
> It is easy for me to go overboard on this type of project now as Calypso?s 
> interior resembles a fiberglass repair shop.  The extra mess and dust would 
> not be noticed.
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> [Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 1:48 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle
> Subject: Stus-List Holes in my bulkhead
> 
> Hey listers,
> Now for my question:
> Next to my companionway I have holes in that bulkhead.  They are from where a 
> previous owner had installed a tangled series of add-on electrical panels.  I 
> removed all of them when I rewired the boat.  Alas, now I have holes.
> 
> I thought about buying some beadboard and covering it up - cutting the 
> beadboard to go around the chart table, around the motor cooling system, and 
> around the companionway, but that just seems like a lot of messy work.
> Does anyone have any ideas for covering these holes?
> 
> The best idea I currently have is cutting some plywood, sticking it in the 
> holes, fairing it with wood filler and painting it, but I figured I'd ask 
> here first as you guys always come up with something I hadn't thought of.
> PS. - A friend suggested I hang some paintings... my wife nixed that idea.
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160420/6ce4e71f/attachment-0001.html>
> -- next part --
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: image001.png
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> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160420/6ce4e71f/attachment-0001.png>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 18:08:59 -0700
> From: Rick Rohwer 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Rudder replacement/repair
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Thanks for sharing the pictures Joh!  Very interesting.
> 
> Rick
> Paikea 37+
> Poulsbo, WA
> 
>> On Apr 18, 2016, at 9:17 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> My rebuild was ~$5k.  Seeing what the professionals do was definitely an 
>> education.  Not hard, just a lot of work.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA 
>> <https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> On Apr 18, 20

Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Good suggestions, all – 

As mentioned, make sure all the setscrews are out, in case there were one on 
top of another. If someone ground a setscrew into the threads, you could be 
screwed, no pun intended.  Stainless on Stainless galls terribly, which is why 
everyone is always saying to use Tef jel .

 

Done properly, those setscrews should go into little depressions so the threads 
are not mauled, but if someone else messed with it they could have just screwed 
them into the threads.  If it has started to gall, you are in trouble. Maybe 
let some cutting oil seep into the threads, cutting oil with chlorine, 
Specifically for SS . Then I would increase your lever length. 

 

If worse comes to worse, jack it up a little to make a space, then cut it off 
and re-weld it when you get the nut off or make another end.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 11:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin
Subject: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

 

I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder. 

 

The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust bearing in 
the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set screws and am attempting 
to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the rudder propped up (enough that that 
delrin bearing under the donut is free spinning). 

 

This is the donut pictured on Wally's page: 

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/

 

He got it off with just an oil filter wrench + exhaust hose on past occasions, 
and later with that strap wrench.  I've already applied far more force than a 
strap wrench with no luck. :(

 

I had planned to have the yard (Seaview) help with this, but apparently they 
have plenty of fiberglass guys but not enough mechanical guys, and are 
backlogged on anything mechanical. So if I want this to go faster I can keep 
trying to do it myself. And saving money by not having them bang away at it for 
$105/hour is probably good anyway. Though honestly I would happily do that now 
if they could get it loose. 

 

I know Frank of S/V Cool Change had a bear of a time with the set screws: 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2007-March/009523.html   
(but I guess the donut wasn't a problem?)

 

And I know another owner who used a huge pipe wrench with some padding, and 
yard assistance, but ended up damaging it and needing to get a new one. 

 

Things I've tried: 

- PB Blaster, every day for 4-5 days, around the top, into the set screw holes, 
and around the bottom.

- Loctite Freeze + Release

- oil filter wrench with rubber pieces to grip

- threading a bolt into the set screw holes and hammering on that - quickly 
abandoned this because it started to bend the screws and I realized it would 
strip the set screw holes. 

- C clamps

- Heat gun (I don't have a torch - however I don't think heat will be very 
successful because the mated parts are both stainless steel)

- Large hose clamp tightened around my rubber gripper ring and hammering on the 
hose clamp screw. I really thought this was the genius idea that would finally 
work. Nothing budged, even with heavy pounding. But the hose clamp does the 
best job of pressing my rubber gripper onto the donut and had no slippage. 

 

Is there anything I'm missing? Has anyone else had this hard a time getting the 
donut off, or found anything else that worked? 

 

The Edson radial drive bolts are also seized, but I have some more things to 
try there still, and as last resort it can be cut off and order a new one 
($500). 

 

If I can get the rudder out I might also consider changing the stuffing box, 
because that is also seized (looks original and probably hasn't been adjusted 
in 5 years). 

 

-Patrick

1984 C&C Landfall 38

Violet Hour, Seattle, WA

 

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Depth transducer troubleshooting

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Bill

See if your chandlery might loan you a transducer for an afternoon.  I once 
purchased an ST40 bi-data that had erratic depth behavior and on loan of a 
spare transducer had same behavior.  It was the control head

In 2014 we purchased i50/i60 tri pack.  Occasionally the depth would start to 
wander from its correct reading of 40-50 ft to a depth of 2 feet and then 
wander back.  Often would see LAST as well. The source of the trouble was that 
my speed and depth transducer cables were run as a bundle and ran in a bundle 
alongside power lines.  I moved the depth transducer cable away from the 
electrical wires and problem went away.  Also when in very deep water 
(something more than 400 feet will always show --- or last).

Good luck

Mike
Persistence
Dead in the Water
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina - 
gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 9:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Stus-List Depth transducer troubleshooting

I have a new Raymarine i50 depth display connected to a D800- P17 retractable 
transducer.  Boat was splashed yesterday. The depth display reads LAST and 
three dashes where the depth should be displayed. 
Obviously, it is not getting the information from the transducer. 
Raymarine's technical help consists of: "buy another transducer and plug it in 
to see if you have a bad transducer or cable". Sadly, that is more 
troubleshooting information than they provide in the manual! I just called 
Raymarine tech support and talked to one of their installers. 
That was all he had for advice. I was looking for measurements I might take. 
Resistance between the three leads? Voltages? Waveforms? I have good test 
equipment and know how to use it.  The guy at Raymarine is an installer, not an 
electronics tech. Does anybody have even some basic values to test the 
transducer?

Bill Bina



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greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I have a SS bit on my Dremel.  I've used it to grind out screw heads on
screws that won't budge.  Often the vibration and heat loosen the screws
and I can still unscrew them before I completely destroy the screw head.  A
drill would be a more controlled way to attack the set screws.

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 9:59 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good suggestions, all –
>
> As mentioned, make sure all the setscrews are out, in case there were one
> on top of another. If someone ground a setscrew into the threads, you could
> be screwed, no pun intended.  Stainless on Stainless galls terribly, which
> is why everyone is always saying to use Tef jel .
>
>
>
> Done properly, those setscrews should go into little depressions so the
> threads are not mauled, but if someone else messed with it they could have
> just screwed them into the threads.  If it has started to gall, you are in
> trouble. Maybe let some cutting oil seep into the threads, cutting oil with
> chlorine, Specifically for SS . Then I would increase your lever length.
>
>
>
> If worse comes to worse, jack it up a little to make a space, then cut it
> off and re-weld it when you get the nut off or make another end.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick
> Davin via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 19, 2016 11:45 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Patrick Davin
> *Subject:* Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal
>
>
>
> I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder.
>
>
>
> The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust
> bearing in the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set screws
> and am attempting to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the rudder propped up
> (enough that that delrin bearing under the donut is free spinning).
>
>
>
> This is the donut pictured on Wally's page:
>
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg
>
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/
>
>
>
> He got it off with just an oil filter wrench + exhaust hose on past
> occasions, and later with that strap wrench.  I've already applied far more
> force than a strap wrench with no luck. :(
>
>
>
> I had planned to have the yard (Seaview) help with this, but apparently
> they have plenty of fiberglass guys but not enough mechanical guys, and are
> backlogged on anything mechanical. So if I want this to go faster I can
> keep trying to do it myself. And saving money by not having them bang away
> at it for $105/hour is probably good anyway. Though honestly I would
> happily do that now if they could get it loose.
>
>
>
> I know Frank of S/V Cool Change had a bear of a time with the set screws:
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2007-March/009523.html
>   (but I guess the donut wasn't a problem?)
>
>
>
> And I know another owner who used a huge pipe wrench with some padding,
> and yard assistance, but ended up damaging it and needing to get a new one.
>
>
>
> Things I've tried:
>
> - PB Blaster, every day for 4-5 days, around the top, into the set screw
> holes, and around the bottom.
>
> - Loctite Freeze + Release
>
> - oil filter wrench with rubber pieces to grip
>
> - threading a bolt into the set screw holes and hammering on that -
> quickly abandoned this because it started to bend the screws and I realized
> it would strip the set screw holes.
>
> - C clamps
>
> - Heat gun (I don't have a torch - however I don't think heat will be very
> successful because the mated parts are both stainless steel)
>
> - Large hose clamp tightened around my rubber gripper ring and hammering
> on the hose clamp screw. I really thought this was the genius idea that
> would finally work. Nothing budged, even with heavy pounding. But the hose
> clamp does the best job of pressing my rubber gripper onto the donut and
> had no slippage.
>
>
>
> Is there anything I'm missing? Has anyone else had this hard a time
> getting the donut off, or found anything else that worked?
>
>
>
> The Edson radial drive bolts are also seized, but I have some more things
> to try there still, and as last resort it can be cut off and order a new
> one ($500).
>
>
>
> If I can get the rudder out I might also consider changing the stuffing
> box, because that is also seized (looks original and probably hasn't been
> adjusted in 5 years).
>
>
>
> -Patrick
>
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
>
> Violet Hour, Seattle, WA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributio

Stus-List Yanmar Governor issues?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

HI all.  Josh Muckley and I have been working on my Yanmar 3GM30F together via 
email.  This list is without a doubt the best source of sailboat information I 
have encountered.  With Josh's help for diesel issues, Fred for electronics and 
all the other experience it is a treasure for owners.  I don't think I can 
express enough how great this is.

We launched Persistence April 4 and our 3GM30F ran fine.  Ran fine April 8 as 
well and then on April 9 when scheduled to step mast the motor would not start. 
 Appeared starved of fuel.  Over the past 10 days we have bled the low pressure 
lines, bypassed the mechanical lift fuel pump with 12v pump, primed and bled 
everything many times, check at injectors and eventually deducted no fuel 
coming from injector pump but plenty of air free fuel going to it.  Eventually 
removed the injector pump and have had it serviced.  With the pump out we have 
noticed the governor lever is not moving freely.  This appears to be most 
likely caused by the governor sleeve being too far aft

With all the experience in this list has anyone with a  yanmar 2gm or 3gm of 
any sort had problems diagnosed with the governor?  Initial inspection thru 
injector pump opening looks like the governor weights may be slightly bent out 
of position.  Timing cover must come off to inspect further

Just hoping for pearls of wisdom from our great list

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16
Dead in the Water
In Halifax, NS
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement/repair

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Gene's question is timely since the reason I'm trying to drop my rudder now
is to fix the leaking. I observed weeping at last year's haul-out, drilled
drainage holes, and got about 1/2 cup of reddish rusty smelly water.

My Vancouver surveyor told me water in rudders of old boats is very common,
and he didn't seem too concerned with it. Said to drop the rudder at next
haul-out to dremel around where the stock enters the top of the rudder and
then epoxy that up with Gflex or something similar. The water usually gets
in from the stock entry since the stresses end up cracking the fiberglass
there.

At the yard this week we drilled two 2" hole saw holes. One low, where
tapping revealed a void - that one showed some water is traveling through
the void, and wetting the outer edge of foam, but not traveling through the
closed cell foam - the foam looked pretty good. The other hole was higher,
near the stock. No water found at this one, and no void, but we were able
to see the stock and plate. The welds look good and the stock has only
minor rust marks. The plate is brownish/black, but the yard manager said
that's probably a lower grade of stainless used.

I don't think the LF38 has 3 "fingers" coming out from the stock like the
37+ does, I think it's one contiguous plate. Since the yard manager thought
the rudder looks pretty good, our plan is to drop it to dry it out a bit
more and then seal it up to try to stop the water ingress - and having the
rudder dropped will make the fiberglass repairs of the hole saw holes +
void easier.

Foss Foam will make new rudders for about $5k (for this size), in about 4
weeks time, shipped from FL. A rebuild costs about almost that much. If you
wanted to do a rudder replacement it'd also be worth checking with
Southshore Yachts because they list some C&C rudders (with 4 week wait time
- I wonder if they're just contracting with Foss to make a template/design
they have).

A guy next to me in the boatyard with an older full keel, skeg protected
rudder is replacing his rudder with a Foss because his rudder was a mess -
the fiberglass skin cracked in multiple places and a prior owner tried to
fix it by fiberglassing over, but didn't grind back all the gelcoat and
fiberglassed over gelcoat in places.

-Patrick
1984 C&C Landfall 38
Seattle, WA

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 5:23 AM,  wrote:
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: David Knecht 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Cc:
> Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2016 08:22:58 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement/repair
> Water in the rudder seems to be really common. My rudder was rebuilt
> before I bought the boat.  I think surveyors tend to overdo this as my
> metal also looked fine once the rudder was opened up.  I am curious about
> the foam in Josh’s pictures.  I would have thought it would keep water from
> accumulating inside if it was closed cell foam.  Was it actually wet?
> Also, I discovered last weekend that when my was rebuilt, they did not fill
> the interior with foam because we saw water weeping out of the trailing
> edge and when we drilled into the middle, a large stream of water drained
> out for about 15 minutes.  I am going to have the yard open a hole and fill
> the interior with foam.  The alternative to foam would be to drill a small
> hole every fall and drain it, then plug.Thoughts?  Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement/repair

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Check with PYI if you are rudder shopping.  They have Jefa rudders
available.

http://www.pyiinc.com/

Joel

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 10:16 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gene's question is timely since the reason I'm trying to drop my rudder
> now is to fix the leaking. I observed weeping at last year's haul-out,
> drilled drainage holes, and got about 1/2 cup of reddish rusty smelly
> water.
>
> My Vancouver surveyor told me water in rudders of old boats is very
> common, and he didn't seem too concerned with it. Said to drop the rudder
> at next haul-out to dremel around where the stock enters the top of the
> rudder and then epoxy that up with Gflex or something similar. The water
> usually gets in from the stock entry since the stresses end up cracking the
> fiberglass there.
>
> At the yard this week we drilled two 2" hole saw holes. One low, where
> tapping revealed a void - that one showed some water is traveling through
> the void, and wetting the outer edge of foam, but not traveling through the
> closed cell foam - the foam looked pretty good. The other hole was higher,
> near the stock. No water found at this one, and no void, but we were able
> to see the stock and plate. The welds look good and the stock has only
> minor rust marks. The plate is brownish/black, but the yard manager said
> that's probably a lower grade of stainless used.
>
> I don't think the LF38 has 3 "fingers" coming out from the stock like the
> 37+ does, I think it's one contiguous plate. Since the yard manager thought
> the rudder looks pretty good, our plan is to drop it to dry it out a bit
> more and then seal it up to try to stop the water ingress - and having the
> rudder dropped will make the fiberglass repairs of the hole saw holes +
> void easier.
>
> Foss Foam will make new rudders for about $5k (for this size), in about 4
> weeks time, shipped from FL. A rebuild costs about almost that much. If you
> wanted to do a rudder replacement it'd also be worth checking with
> Southshore Yachts because they list some C&C rudders (with 4 week wait time
> - I wonder if they're just contracting with Foss to make a template/design
> they have).
>
> A guy next to me in the boatyard with an older full keel, skeg protected
> rudder is replacing his rudder with a Foss because his rudder was a mess -
> the fiberglass skin cracked in multiple places and a prior owner tried to
> fix it by fiberglassing over, but didn't grind back all the gelcoat and
> fiberglassed over gelcoat in places.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 5:23 AM,  wrote:
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: David Knecht 
>> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
>> Cc:
>> Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2016 08:22:58 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement/repair
>> Water in the rudder seems to be really common. My rudder was rebuilt
>> before I bought the boat.  I think surveyors tend to overdo this as my
>> metal also looked fine once the rudder was opened up.  I am curious about
>> the foam in Josh’s pictures.  I would have thought it would keep water from
>> accumulating inside if it was closed cell foam.  Was it actually wet?
>> Also, I discovered last weekend that when my was rebuilt, they did not fill
>> the interior with foam because we saw water weeping out of the trailing
>> edge and when we drilled into the middle, a large stream of water drained
>> out for about 15 minutes.  I am going to have the yard open a hole and fill
>> the interior with foam.  The alternative to foam would be to drill a small
>> hole every fall and drain it, then plug.Thoughts?  Dave
>>
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Governor issues?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Mike,

Make sure your fuel tank vent isn't clogged, blocked or covered.  The engine
can start with what's in the fuel line but it will soon starve the diesel
when air can't get into the tank.  A heavy application of boat wax over the
vent is enough to restrict air going in.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 10:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar Governor issues?

 

HI all.  Josh Muckley and I have been working on my Yanmar 3GM30F together
via email.  This list is without a doubt the best source of sailboat
information I have encountered.  With Josh's help for diesel issues, Fred
for electronics and all the other experience it is a treasure for owners.  I
don't think I can express enough how great this is.

 

We launched Persistence April 4 and our 3GM30F ran fine.  Ran fine April 8
as well and then on April 9 when scheduled to step mast the motor would not
start.  Appeared starved of fuel.  Over the past 10 days we have bled the
low pressure lines, bypassed the mechanical lift fuel pump with 12v pump,
primed and bled everything many times, check at injectors and eventually
deducted no fuel coming from injector pump but plenty of air free fuel going
to it.  Eventually removed the injector pump and have had it serviced.  With
the pump out we have noticed the governor lever is not moving freely.  This
appears to be most likely caused by the governor sleeve being too far aft

 

With all the experience in this list has anyone with a  yanmar 2gm or 3gm of
any sort had problems diagnosed with the governor?  Initial inspection thru
injector pump opening looks like the governor weights may be slightly bent
out of position.  Timing cover must come off to inspect further

 

Just hoping for pearls of wisdom from our great list

 

Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers 33 #16

Dead in the Water

In Halifax, NS

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Governor issues?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I have the same motor in my 1980 Landfall 38 that I bought 2 months ago.  I
had a similar issue with getting her started after knowing it was sitting
for over 2 years. The PO put stabilizer and filled the tank with diesel. I
chanel the fuel filter and the battery banks, bit she wouldn't start.
Cranked over strong but seemed starved for fuel. The problem happened to be
that I didn't have the throttle opened far enough.  I felt dumb, but I'll
take that. Haven't had any issues with the governor.  Motor runs like a
champ and just wants to keep going.
On Apr 20, 2016 10:15 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> HI all.  Josh Muckley and I have been working on my Yanmar 3GM30F together
> via email.  This list is without a doubt the best source of sailboat
> information I have encountered.  With Josh’s help for diesel issues, Fred
> for electronics and all the other experience it is a treasure for owners.
> I don’t think I can express enough how great this is.
>
>
>
> We launched Persistence April 4 and our 3GM30F ran fine.  Ran fine April 8
> as well and then on April 9 when scheduled to step mast the motor would not
> start.  Appeared starved of fuel.  Over the past 10 days we have bled the
> low pressure lines, bypassed the mechanical lift fuel pump with 12v pump,
> primed and bled everything many times, check at injectors and eventually
> deducted no fuel coming from injector pump but plenty of air free fuel
> going to it.  Eventually removed the injector pump and have had it
> serviced.  With the pump out we have noticed the governor lever is not
> moving freely.  This appears to be most likely caused by the governor
> sleeve being too far aft
>
>
>
> With all the experience in this list has anyone with a  yanmar 2gm or 3gm
> of any sort had problems diagnosed with the governor?  Initial inspection
> thru injector pump opening looks like the governor weights may be slightly
> bent out of position.  Timing cover must come off to inspect further
>
>
>
> Just hoping for pearls of wisdom from our great list
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 33 #16
>
> Dead in the Water
>
> In Halifax, NS
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C&C 37+ or XL Refrigeration

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

One of my near-future projects on the Enterprise is to replace the 
refrigeration unit which broke some years ago. The one I have appears to be two 
pieces - a panel/basket in the ice chest and a compressor in the aft cabin 
hanging locker. I have no idea if it is water cooled or air cooled (I can’t see 
any through hull lines or any venting) and, since I know nothing about it, did 
not want to pull the old one out in fears of turning the boat into a liquid 
asset. 

So: 1. Is it safe to pull out the old unit while the boat is in the water? and 
2. Can anyone recommend a good replacement unit that will keep the chest cool? 
  

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ or XL Refrigeration

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Ed:

If it’s water cooled you would see a line running off the compressor and 
(hopefully) to a thru-hull.  Assuming you’re just seeing 2 wires and the copper 
refrigerant lines (2) you’re good to go in the water as it is air cooled. 

John

> On Apr 20, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> One of my near-future projects on the Enterprise is to replace the 
> refrigeration unit which broke some years ago. The one I have appears to be 
> two pieces - a panel/basket in the ice chest and a compressor in the aft 
> cabin hanging locker. I have no idea if it is water cooled or air cooled (I 
> can’t see any through hull lines or any venting) and, since I know nothing 
> about it, did not want to pull the old one out in fears of turning the boat 
> into a liquid asset. 
> 
> So: 1. Is it safe to pull out the old unit while the boat is in the water? 
> and 2. Can anyone recommend a good replacement unit that will keep the chest 
> cool? 
>   
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ or XL Refrigeration

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

The unit on my 1980 landfall 38 is air cooled.  I've been reading some of
other threads on here and it's seems like a new unit runs about $1300. I
want to convert mine to a freezer/cooler combo...
On Apr 20, 2016 11:51 AM, "John Pennie via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Ed:
>
> If it’s water cooled you would see a line running off the compressor and
> (hopefully) to a thru-hull.  Assuming you’re just seeing 2 wires and the
> copper refrigerant lines (2) you’re good to go in the water as it is air
> cooled.
>
> John
>
> On Apr 20, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> One of my near-future projects on the Enterprise is to replace the
> refrigeration unit which broke some years ago. The one I have appears to be
> two pieces - a panel/basket in the ice chest and a compressor in the aft
> cabin hanging locker. I have no idea if it is water cooled or air cooled (I
> can’t see any through hull lines or any venting) and, since I know nothing
> about it, did not want to pull the old one out in fears of turning the boat
> into a liquid asset.
>
> So: 1. Is it safe to pull out the old unit while the boat is in the water?
> and 2. Can anyone recommend a good replacement unit that will keep the
> chest cool?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Alera came with a Raymarine wheel pilot.  I think that a below deacon set up is 
superior in a lot of ways.  But our wheel pilot has served us well considering 
the way we use the boat...cruisers in the Pacific Northwest.  We have full 
chain and anchor forward and our dinghy w motor other transom.  So we are 
probably comings closets your weight.

It is great for motoring and light sailing and we use it all the time.  But it 
does not do well in heavy seas.  Flowing seas can be a problem once the wave 
height gets much above 4'.  Last year we were heading out Admiralty Inlet 
running with the current into a 25kt+ winds and it was useless.

My conclusion if that if your not headed offshore it should be fine...and a joy.

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Apr 20, 2016, at 6:50 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
> Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 8:44 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install
> 
> OMG!
> 
> I need an Autopilot but I think my boat is too heavy for a wheel pilot.
> However, at that cost it might work as way to let go of the helm for short
> periods of time!
> 
> I was going to wait and do a below decks autopilot but this could buy me
> some time maybe.  Any thoughts?  its a 40 footer with 17,250 lbs of
> displacement.  I would imagine that would be a bit higher with our stuff on
> board.
> 
> Danny
> 


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Stus-List Rudder Replacement

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

Hi Patrick.I had some leakage from the rudder thru a crack in the forward 
edge.  I had the yard clean it up and epoxy some cloth over it and GFlex around 
the tube entry.
Still getting some leakage into the rudder.  SO, my solution is to remove the 
rudder every year and keep it in my garage so it won't freeze...ever.  I lean 
it up on an angle and it drips a bit...maybe a half cut or sobut I feel 
better.
Getting pretty good at removing and reinstalling it...a PITA but do-able with 
my wife and I...except for putting it back in.  I do tie a rope sling around 
the rudder with a loop around the bottom to be able to firmly hold onto the 
rudder...it is not too easy to hold onto by itself.  Luckily sailors are a 
helpful bunch and a couple of them are usually around to assist for 10 minutes 
or so to align the quadrant and get the top nut started.  Look out for the 
'key' in the rudder shaft!  Mine drops out.  ALSO, I found a round red 
scotchbright type drill attachment that I use with 2 18" extensions to clean 
out the shaft tube wetted down with kerosene to loosen any contaminents.  For 
grease I just use a waterproof bearing greasequite a bit of it...as it gets 
changed annually I am not too picky. No more worries about a $5k bill!
The top nutI use a pipe wrench..it will not spin off no matter how much 
lube I use.  So, I wrap it in Gorilla Tape for protection from the pipe 
wrench...that seems to work pretty well.  I tried using some hose around the 
top nut by it just slipped.  I didn't want to chance creating a problem with 
the set screws by using them as grips for the pipe wrench.
$0.02
Spencer Johnson
'84 LF38 #165 "Alegria"
Waukegan, IL/Racine, WI
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ or XL Refrigeration

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

If the compressor has a screen over it then you 
have an air cooled unit. If it's one of the 
popular units, such as Neva Cool then you will 
find oversize nut thingys in the line between the 
compressor and evaporator. It comes apart there 
without a massive release of refrigerant (self 
sealing valves). This type has no connection to  watery portions of the hull.


Have you had a local "fridge guy" look at it? 
Mine stopped working and it was only a bit o' 
corrosion in the control wire connection (between 
dial and big bundle of connections).


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:48 AM 20/04/2016, you wrote:

Listers,

One of my near-future projects on the Enterprise 
is to replace the refrigeration unit which broke 
some years ago. The one I have appears to be two 
pieces - a panel/basket in the ice chest and a 
compressor in the aft cabin hanging locker. I 
have no idea if it is water cooled or air cooled 
(I can’t see any through hull lines or any 
venting) and, since I know nothing about it, did 
not want to pull the old one out in fears of 
turning the boat into a liquid asset.


So: 1. Is it safe to pull out the old unit while 
the boat is in the water? and 2. Can anyone 
recommend a good replacement unit that will keep the chest cool?



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


[]












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help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[svpegasus38]

A few years ago I replaced Pegasus's ST4000 wheel pilot with a Raymarine 
below deck unit. It has steered us over many miles in all sorts of seas. When I 
finally get my new wind instruments installed it will be most awesome. My 
nickels worth. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.





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Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Hi all,

My boat came with an old-looking Wilcox Crittenden Headmate head that is
currently back-filling after I pump it dry.  It looks like a rebuild kit
will run me $70 to $80.  On the other hand, a new West Marine-brand head (
link
)
is only $200.  I'm inclined to pay that different to avoid a messy job and
start from scratch with a clean head.

It seems well reviewed but does anyone have experience with that model or
other reasons why I shouldn't go with it?

Thanks,
Sam
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ or XL Refrigeration

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If big enough, many units can manage a freezer section with a simple partition. 
 The instructions for mine said install a partition extending 2 inches above 
the bottom of the cold plate leaving a 1/4 inch gap at the bottom for cold to 
flow from freezer side to the refrigerator side. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 20, 2016, at 11:11 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The unit on my 1980 landfall 38 is air cooled.  I've been reading some of 
> other threads on here and it's seems like a new unit runs about $1300. I want 
> to convert mine to a freezer/cooler combo...
> 
>> On Apr 20, 2016 11:51 AM, "John Pennie via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Ed:
>> 
>> If it’s water cooled you would see a line running off the compressor and 
>> (hopefully) to a thru-hull.  Assuming you’re just seeing 2 wires and the 
>> copper refrigerant lines (2) you’re good to go in the water as it is air 
>> cooled. 
>> 
>> John
>> 
>>> On Apr 20, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Listers,
>>> 
>>> One of my near-future projects on the Enterprise is to replace the 
>>> refrigeration unit which broke some years ago. The one I have appears to be 
>>> two pieces - a panel/basket in the ice chest and a compressor in the aft 
>>> cabin hanging locker. I have no idea if it is water cooled or air cooled (I 
>>> can’t see any through hull lines or any venting) and, since I know nothing 
>>> about it, did not want to pull the old one out in fears of turning the boat 
>>> into a liquid asset. 
>>> 
>>> So: 1. Is it safe to pull out the old unit while the boat is in the water? 
>>> and 2. Can anyone recommend a good replacement unit that will keep the 
>>> chest cool? 
>>>   
>>> 
>>> All the best,
>>> 
>>> Edd
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Edd M. Schillay
>>> Starship Enterprise
>>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>> City Island, NY 
>>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

That's a Jabsco that is probably less from Defender.  I installed one on
The Office and Atlantis has 2.  I need to rebuild one Jabsco.  It was
cheaper to buy the whole pump assembly than to just buy gaskets.  Go figure!

Sounds like you need a joker valve which is only about $15 for a Jabsco.
No idea if you can get it by itself for a WC.

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 1:50 PM, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> My boat came with an old-looking Wilcox Crittenden Headmate head that is
> currently back-filling after I pump it dry.  It looks like a rebuild kit
> will run me $70 to $80.  On the other hand, a new West Marine-brand head (
> link
> )
> is only $200.  I'm inclined to pay that different to avoid a messy job and
> start from scratch with a clean head.
>
> It seems well reviewed but does anyone have experience with that model or
> other reasons why I shouldn't go with it?
>
> Thanks,
> Sam
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

See if you can find a replacement pump assembly.  The bowl should be OK. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 20, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> My boat came with an old-looking Wilcox Crittenden Headmate head that is 
> currently back-filling after I pump it dry.  It looks like a rebuild kit will 
> run me $70 to $80.  On the other hand, a new West Marine-brand head (link) is 
> only $200.  I'm inclined to pay that different to avoid a messy job and start 
> from scratch with a clean head.
> 
> It seems well reviewed but does anyone have experience with that model or 
> other reasons why I shouldn't go with it?
> 
> Thanks,
> Sam
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ or XL Refrigeration

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

On my new SeaFrost refrigeration unit, I purchased the optional internal coils 
for supplemental water cooling but have not purchased or installed the little 
pump.  There's not much advantage to it here on the Chesapeake nor the Bahamas 
during the winter but if we were in New England with colder water temps, there 
would probably be a significant advantage to supplemental water cooling.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - hull #230)
Blog: dainyr...@blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Apr 20, 2016, at 1:53 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> If big enough, many units can manage a freezer section with a simple 
> partition.  The instructions for mine said install a partition extending 2 
> inches above the bottom of the cold plate leaving a 1/4 inch gap at the 
> bottom for cold to flow from freezer side to the refrigerator side. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 20, 2016, at 11:11 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> The unit on my 1980 landfall 38 is air cooled.  I've been reading some of 
>> other threads on here and it's seems like a new unit runs about $1300. I 
>> want to convert mine to a freezer/cooler combo...
>> 
>>> On Apr 20, 2016 11:51 AM, "John Pennie via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Ed:
>>> 
>>> If it’s water cooled you would see a line running off the compressor and 
>>> (hopefully) to a thru-hull.  Assuming you’re just seeing 2 wires and the 
>>> copper refrigerant lines (2) you’re good to go in the water as it is air 
>>> cooled. 
>>> 
>>> John
>>> 
 On Apr 20, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 Listers,
 
 One of my near-future projects on the Enterprise is to replace the 
 refrigeration unit which broke some years ago. The one I have appears to 
 be two pieces - a panel/basket in the ice chest and a compressor in the 
 aft cabin hanging locker. I have no idea if it is water cooled or air 
 cooled (I can’t see any through hull lines or any venting) and, since I 
 know nothing about it, did not want to pull the old one out in fears of 
 turning the boat into a liquid asset. 
 
 So: 1. Is it safe to pull out the old unit while the boat is in the water? 
 and 2. Can anyone recommend a good replacement unit that will keep the 
 chest cool? 
   
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY 
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
 like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
 Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Before you go out and buy a new head or even a rebuild, put some West Marine 
Head Lube in it and pump it through. My Jabsco had the same problem. Head Lube 
fixed it.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 1:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

 

See if you can find a replacement pump assembly.  The bowl should be OK. 

 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 20, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi all,

 

My boat came with an old-looking Wilcox Crittenden Headmate head that is 
currently back-filling after I pump it dry.  It looks like a rebuild kit will 
run me $70 to $80.  On the other hand, a new West Marine-brand head (link 
 ) is 
only $200.  I'm inclined to pay that different to avoid a messy job and start 
from scratch with a clean head.

 

It seems well reviewed but does anyone have experience with that model or other 
reasons why I shouldn't go with it?

 

Thanks,

Sam

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Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

If I'm not mistaken that Wilcox is a far superior toilet to just about 
anything on the market and well worth the rebuild.


I've researched toilets WAY too much over the last few years.  I 
replaced the whole sanitation system on the Viking and used the Raritan 
PHII and have now replaced all the hoses and about to replace the toilet 
with a raritan Fresh head that can use the pressurized fresh water 
supply to flush.


I literally just took out a Jabsco that was brand new and gave it to one 
of the Tartan guys.  I wanted the the yard where the PO kept the boat to 
repair the existing Raritan household sized head and the instead, they 
ripped it out and put in the compact Jabsco.  I'd probably have kept it 
but, I hate that rotten egg smell from the raw water inlet and it is so 
small!


Peggy Hall is the so called "head Mistress" and has written a book about 
boat odors and boat sanitation.


It seems in her opinion, for the money, nothing beats a Raritan.

If it were me, It put on some heavy rubber gloves, take the Wicox home 
and bleach the heck out of it and rebuild it.  It'll be like new and all 
the hoses will be routed properly!


Danny



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Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Sounds like a joker valve to me. We have to replace our approximate twice
per year.

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 11:25 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Before you go out and buy a new head or even a rebuild, put some West
> Marine Head Lube in it and pump it through. My Jabsco had the same problem.
> Head Lube fixed it.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 30-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 20, 2016 1:56 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III
>
>
>
> See if you can find a replacement pump assembly.  The bowl should be OK.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Apr 20, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> My boat came with an old-looking Wilcox Crittenden Headmate head that is
> currently back-filling after I pump it dry.  It looks like a rebuild kit
> will run me $70 to $80.  On the other hand, a new West Marine-brand head (
> link
> )
> is only $200.  I'm inclined to pay that different to avoid a messy job and
> start from scratch with a clean head.
>
>
>
> It seems well reviewed but does anyone have experience with that model or
> other reasons why I shouldn't go with it?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sam
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

Hi 

I have the same original head working well, but a used pump assembly to rebuild 
would be great to have to swap in. Look for one to rebuild and have ready!

Don

Don Harben
Viking 34
Life
www.ncyc.ca


> On Apr 20, 2016, at 2:30 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> put on some heavy rubber gloves, take the Wicox home and bleach the heck out 
> of it and rebuild it.  It'll be like new and all the hoses will be routed 
> properly!


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Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

If it's not been done in decades, you'll likely find that you have to
replace the hoses once you start on this job. Plan accordingly.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 3:23 PM, Don Harben via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
> I have the same original head working well, but a used pump assembly to
> rebuild would be great to have to swap in. Look for one to rebuild and have
> ready!
>
> Don
>
> Don Harben
> Viking 34
> Life
> www.ncyc.ca
>
>
> > On Apr 20, 2016, at 2:30 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > put on some heavy rubber gloves, take the Wicox home and bleach the heck
> out of it and rebuild it.  It'll be like new and all the hoses will be
> routed properly!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Patrick,

Another “tool” to consider is something we used when we dropped the rudder on 
Ronin. The yard manager cut a section of fiberglass tube, the kind that you see 
when manufacturers glass in exhaust outlets for powerboats and worked that up 
as a big socket. Pretty easy and quick. Maybe cheaper that getting something 
welded up.

In my case, the dimensions are 5.5” tall, OD is 3.5” and the wall thickness is 
1/8”. With that cut, he created a wooden plug for the top end and jammed it 
into the table. After that he drilled a large diameter hole through the entire 
section. At the bottom he drilled and then cut out the slot for the bolt head 
on my steering top. We ran a long, large diameter lag volt through the top 
section for leverage and turned it fairly easily.

I have pictures if you’d like to see what it looks like.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Apr 20, 2016, at 10:08 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have a SS bit on my Dremel.  I've used it to grind out screw heads on 
> screws that won't budge.  Often the vibration and heat loosen the screws and 
> I can still unscrew them before I completely destroy the screw head.  A drill 
> would be a more controlled way to attack the set screws.
> 
> On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 9:59 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Good suggestions, all –
> 
> As mentioned, make sure all the setscrews are out, in case there were one on 
> top of another. If someone ground a setscrew into the threads, you could be 
> screwed, no pun intended.  Stainless on Stainless galls terribly, which is 
> why everyone is always saying to use Tef jel .
> 
>  
> 
> Done properly, those setscrews should go into little depressions so the 
> threads are not mauled, but if someone else messed with it they could have 
> just screwed them into the threads.  If it has started to gall, you are in 
> trouble. Maybe let some cutting oil seep into the threads, cutting oil with 
> chlorine, Specifically for SS . Then I would increase your lever length.
> 
>  
> 
> If worse comes to worse, jack it up a little to make a space, then cut it off 
> and re-weld it when you get the nut off or make another end.
> 
>  
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> C&C 39 Erie, PA
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Patrick Davin via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 11:45 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Patrick Davin
> Subject: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal
> 
>  
> 
> I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder. 
> 
>  
> 
> The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust bearing 
> in the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set screws and am 
> attempting to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the rudder propped up (enough 
> that that delrin bearing under the donut is free spinning). 
> 
>  
> 
> This is the donut pictured on Wally's page: 
> 
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg 
> 
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/ 
> 
>  
> 
> He got it off with just an oil filter wrench + exhaust hose on past 
> occasions, and later with that strap wrench.  I've already applied far more 
> force than a strap wrench with no luck. :(
> 
>  
> 
> I had planned to have the yard (Seaview) help with this, but apparently they 
> have plenty of fiberglass guys but not enough mechanical guys, and are 
> backlogged on anything mechanical. So if I want this to go faster I can keep 
> trying to do it myself. And saving money by not having them bang away at it 
> for $105/hour is probably good anyway. Though honestly I would happily do 
> that now if they could get it loose. 
> 
>  
> 
> I know Frank of S/V Cool Change had a bear of a time with the set screws: 
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2007-March/009523.html 
>   
>  (but I guess the donut wasn't a problem?)
> 
>  
> 
> And I know another owner who used a huge pipe wrench with some padding, and 
> yard assistance, but ended up damaging it and needing to get a new one. 
> 
>  
> 
> Things I've tried: 
> 
> - PB Blaster, every day for 4-5 days, around the top, into the set screw 
> holes, and around the bottom.
> 
> - Loctite Freeze + Release
> 
> - oil filter wrench with rubber pieces to grip
> 
> - threading a bolt into the set screw holes and hammering on that - quickly 
> abandoned this because it started to bend the screws and I realized it would 
> strip the set screw holes. 
> 
> - C clamps
> 
> - Heat gun (I don't have a torch - however I don't think

Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Sam,

My wholesale marine parts catalog shows parts for a LOT of marine heads.

If your old head is Model 1460C Headmate, like this:

http://www.downwindmarine.com/Wilcox-Crittenden-Headmate-Toilet-Service-Parts-p-91002266.html

Then the complete pump assembly is Part #015461.

Parts are supplied by Thetford now.

This may be the pump assembly you need:

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/wilcox-crittenden-head-replacement-parts-for-toilets-37353

I've repaired dozens of heads.  It's a whole lot easier to replace the pump
assembly than to install a rebuild kit.  Also, you eliminate the potential
for a scored cylinder.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 12:50 PM, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> My boat came with an old-looking Wilcox Crittenden Headmate head that is
> currently back-filling after I pump it dry.  It looks like a rebuild kit
> will run me $70 to $80.  On the other hand, a new West Marine-brand head (
> link
> )
> is only $200.  I'm inclined to pay that different to avoid a messy job and
> start from scratch with a clean head.
>
> It seems well reviewed but does anyone have experience with that model or
> other reasons why I shouldn't go with it?
>
> Thanks,
> Sam
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Fixing stripped out fastener holes in aluminum bow plate

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Touche's refrigeration install created satellite jobs all over the boat.
In addition to having to relocate the freshwater pump, accumulator and tank
for a new battery, I decided to replace lots of lights with LED bulbs to
save battery power.  No problem, easy job, right?  WRONG!

When I pulled the dome off the starboard Perko deck mounted side light on
the bow plate, two of the self tapper screws were stripped out.  These
lights really need to be screwed down tight, particularly in a salt water
environment.  The stripped out hole in the aluminum bow palte just wasn't
going to do it.

A brief search found a stainless 6-32 thread insert kit (Heli Coil) on
Amazon.  Took about 10-15 minutes per light to drill tap and install the
thread inserts.  The inserts and machine screw fasteners were coated with
TefGel.  The lights are now screwed down tight with their new MarineBeam
LED bulbs burning brightly.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Fixing stripped out fastener holes in aluminum bow plate

[schiller via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Oh yeah, I really like helicoils.  have used millions of them in my 
carreer.  Helicoil repair kits are pretty easy to come by at auto repair 
stores or McMaster-Carr. Installation kits come with the bit, inserts 
and installation tool.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"

On 4/20/2016 5:34 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Touche's refrigeration install created satellite jobs all over the 
boat.  In addition to having to relocate the freshwater pump, 
accumulator and tank for a new battery, I decided to replace lots of 
lights with LED bulbs to save battery power.  No problem, easy job, 
right?  WRONG!


When I pulled the dome off the starboard Perko deck mounted side light 
on the bow plate, two of the self tapper screws were stripped out.  
These lights really need to be screwed down tight, particularly in a 
salt water environment.  The stripped out hole in the aluminum bow 
palte just wasn't going to do it.


A brief search found a stainless 6-32 thread insert kit (Heli Coil) on 
Amazon.  Took about 10-15 minutes per light to drill tap and install 
the thread inserts.  The inserts and machine screw fasteners were 
coated with TefGel.  The lights are now screwed down tight with their 
new MarineBeam LED bulbs burning brightly.  :)


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Fixing stripped out fastener holes in aluminum bow plate

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Yeah, but the auto parts stores don't have really small insert kits.  I
installed an insert for the T-handle in the lower dinette pedestal base.
Got it at an auto parts store.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 4:46 PM, schiller via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> Oh yeah, I really like helicoils.  have used millions of them in my
> carreer.  Helicoil repair kits are pretty easy to come by at auto repair
> stores or McMaster-Carr.  Installation kits come with the bit, inserts and
> installation tool.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C&C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> On 4/20/2016 5:34 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Touche's refrigeration install created satellite jobs all over the boat.
> In addition to having to relocate the freshwater pump, accumulator and tank
> for a new battery, I decided to replace lots of lights with LED bulbs to
> save battery power.  No problem, easy job, right?  WRONG!
>
> When I pulled the dome off the starboard Perko deck mounted side light on
> the bow plate, two of the self tapper screws were stripped out.  These
> lights really need to be screwed down tight, particularly in a salt water
> environment.  The stripped out hole in the aluminum bow palte just wasn't
> going to do it.
>
> A brief search found a stainless 6-32 thread insert kit (Heli Coil) on
> Amazon.  Took about 10-15 minutes per light to drill tap and install the
> thread inserts.  The inserts and machine screw fasteners were coated with
> TefGel.  The lights are now screwed down tight with their new MarineBeam
> LED bulbs burning brightly.  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Robert Gallagher via CnC-List]

Might just need a new joker valve.  Easy fix.

WestMarine brand look a lot like Jabsco...be sure it will fit before you
pull out the Wilcox...don't ask me how I know.
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Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Hmm, I'm afraid I don't see what you're saying. The pics might help. What
do you mean by "the table"? And he drilled a large diameter hole through
the entire rudder collar donut? That hole would go through the rudder stock
too. Or maybe the 37 has a different rudder attachment. The piece I'm
talking about is completely smooth on the outside, pictured here:
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 2:52 PM,  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Dave Godwin 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Cc:
> Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2016 15:51:57 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal
> Patrick,
>
> Another “tool” to consider is something we used when we dropped the rudder
> on Ronin. The yard manager cut a section of fiberglass tube, the kind that
> you see when manufacturers glass in exhaust outlets for powerboats and
> worked that up as a big socket. Pretty easy and quick. Maybe cheaper that
> getting something welded up.
>
> In my case, the dimensions are 5.5” tall, OD is 3.5” and the wall
> thickness is 1/8”. With that cut, he created a wooden plug for the top end
> and jammed it into the table. After that he drilled a large diameter hole
> through the entire section. At the bottom he drilled and then cut out the
> slot for the bolt head on my steering top. We ran a long, large diameter
> lag volt through the top section for leverage and turned it fairly easily.
>
> I have pictures if you’d like to see what it looks like.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
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Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Sam,

 

Perhaps you only need a new joker valve.  They’re pretty reasonable, compared 
to the price of a new head.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Wheeler 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 13:50
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sam Wheeler 
Subject: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

 

Hi all,

 

My boat came with an old-looking Wilcox Crittenden Headmate head that is 
currently back-filling after I pump it dry.  It looks like a rebuild kit will 
run me $70 to $80.  On the other hand, a new West Marine-brand head (link 
 ) is 
only $200.  I'm inclined to pay that different to avoid a messy job and start 
from scratch with a clean head.

 

It seems well reviewed but does anyone have experience with that model or other 
reasons why I shouldn't go with it?

 

Thanks,

Sam

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Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I'd agree go with the joker valve replacement.
It won't be that messy if you pump a gallon or so of water through. 
Anything that runs back will be mostly water plus a bit

of contaminates from the hose walls.



On 4/20/2016 9:56 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:


Sam,

Perhaps you only need a new joker valve.  They’re pretty reasonable, 
compared to the price of a new head.


Jake

*Jake Brodersen*

*C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*

*Hampton VA*

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Sam Wheeler via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, April 20, 2016 13:50
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Sam Wheeler 
*Subject:* Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

Hi all,

My boat came with an old-looking Wilcox Crittenden Headmate head that 
is currently back-filling after I pump it dry.  It looks like a 
rebuild kit will run me $70 to $80.  On the other hand, a new West 
Marine-brand head (link 
) 
is only $200.  I'm inclined to pay that different to avoid a messy job 
and start from scratch with a clean head.


It seems well reviewed but does anyone have experience with that model 
or other reasons why I shouldn't go with it?


Thanks,

Sam



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--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
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Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Good news! Lee came by this evening and his mechanical ingenuity enabled us
to get the rudder collar off.

The yard lent me two pipe wrenches - one large one and one really huge one.
I had been trying to use them to unscrew the donut by pushing and pounding
with a rubber mallet, but the secret Lee discovered was putting the really
huge one on the donut and then smacking it with the large one.

I didn't have doubled up set screws, but could tell the set screws had done
a bit of damage to the threaded rudder post. After getting the rudder nut
off it became clearer - the threads of the rudder post are actually
deformed / dented, and the nut was having its threads sheared off. No
amount of lubrication would've helped with that - only brute force can
shear off SS threads. I really don't like set screws now - they're fine for
dodger/bimini tubing but not something this big. I'll take the advice of
using a spacer behind the set screws when I reinstall. (looking into
getting a replacement collar nut now)

Here are some pics: https://goo.gl/photos/tcBkJny4uuqqFnRN9

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 9:26 PM,  wrote:

> *From: *"Patrick Davin via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"Patrick Davin" 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, April 19, 2016 11:45:29 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal
>
> I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder.
>
> The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust
> bearing in the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set screws
> and am attempting to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the rudder propped up
> (enough that that delrin bearing under the donut is free spinning).
>
> This is the donut pictured on Wally's page:
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/
>
> He got it off with just an oil filter wrench + exhaust hose on past
> occasions, and later with that strap wrench.  I've already applied far more
> force than a strap wrench with no luck. :(
>
> I had planned to have the yard (Seaview) help with this, but apparently
> they have plenty of fiberglass guys but not enough mechanical guys, and are
> backlogged on anything mechanical. So if I want this to go faster I can
> keep trying to do it myself. And saving money by not having them bang away
> at it for $105/hour is probably good anyway. Though honestly I would
> happily do that now if they could get it loose.
>
> I know Frank of S/V Cool Change had a bear of a time with the set screws:
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2007-March/009523.html
>   (but I guess the donut wasn't a problem?)
>
> And I know another owner who used a huge pipe wrench with some padding,
> and yard assistance, but ended up damaging it and needing to get a new one.
>
> Things I've tried:
> - PB Blaster, every day for 4-5 days, around the top, into the set screw
> holes, and around the bottom.
> - Loctite Freeze + Release
> - oil filter wrench with rubber pieces to grip
> - threading a bolt into the set screw holes and hammering on that -
> quickly abandoned this because it started to bend the screws and I realized
> it would strip the set screw holes.
> - C clamps
> - Heat gun (I don't have a torch - however I don't think heat will be very
> successful because the mated parts are both stainless steel)
> - Large hose clamp tightened around my rubber gripper ring and hammering
> on the hose clamp screw. I really thought this was the genius idea that
> would finally work. Nothing budged, even with heavy pounding. But the hose
> clamp does the best job of pressing my rubber gripper onto the donut and
> had no slippage.
>
> Is there anything I'm missing? Has anyone else had this hard a time
> getting the donut off, or found anything else that worked?
>
> The Edson radial drive bolts are also seized, but I have some more things
> to try there still, and as last resort it can be cut off and order a new
> one ($500).
>
> If I can get the rudder out I might also consider changing the stuffing
> box, because that is also seized (looks original and probably hasn't been
> adjusted in 5 years).
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Violet Hour, Seattle, WA
>
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