Patrick, Another “tool” to consider is something we used when we dropped the rudder on Ronin. The yard manager cut a section of fiberglass tube, the kind that you see when manufacturers glass in exhaust outlets for powerboats and worked that up as a big socket. Pretty easy and quick. Maybe cheaper that getting something welded up.
In my case, the dimensions are 5.5” tall, OD is 3.5” and the wall thickness is 1/8”. With that cut, he created a wooden plug for the top end and jammed it into the table. After that he drilled a large diameter hole through the entire section. At the bottom he drilled and then cut out the slot for the bolt head on my steering top. We ran a long, large diameter lag volt through the top section for leverage and turned it fairly easily. I have pictures if you’d like to see what it looks like. Best, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> > On Apr 20, 2016, at 10:08 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I have a SS bit on my Dremel. I've used it to grind out screw heads on > screws that won't budge. Often the vibration and heat loosen the screws and > I can still unscrew them before I completely destroy the screw head. A drill > would be a more controlled way to attack the set screws. > > On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 9:59 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > Good suggestions, all – > > As mentioned, make sure all the setscrews are out, in case there were one on > top of another. If someone ground a setscrew into the threads, you could be > screwed, no pun intended. Stainless on Stainless galls terribly, which is > why everyone is always saying to use Tef jel . > > > > Done properly, those setscrews should go into little depressions so the > threads are not mauled, but if someone else messed with it they could have > just screwed them into the threads. If it has started to gall, you are in > trouble. Maybe let some cutting oil seep into the threads, cutting oil with > chlorine, Specifically for SS . Then I would increase your lever length. > > > > If worse comes to worse, jack it up a little to make a space, then cut it off > and re-weld it when you get the nut off or make another end. > > > > Bill Coleman > > C&C 39 Erie, PA > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Patrick Davin via > CnC-List > Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 11:45 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Patrick Davin > Subject: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal > > > > I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder. > > > > The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust bearing > in the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set screws and am > attempting to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the rudder propped up (enough > that that delrin bearing under the donut is free spinning). > > > > This is the donut pictured on Wally's page: > > http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg > <http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg> > http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/ > <http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/> > > > He got it off with just an oil filter wrench + exhaust hose on past > occasions, and later with that strap wrench. I've already applied far more > force than a strap wrench with no luck. :( > > > > I had planned to have the yard (Seaview) help with this, but apparently they > have plenty of fiberglass guys but not enough mechanical guys, and are > backlogged on anything mechanical. So if I want this to go faster I can keep > trying to do it myself. And saving money by not having them bang away at it > for $105/hour is probably good anyway. Though honestly I would happily do > that now if they could get it loose. > > > > I know Frank of S/V Cool Change had a bear of a time with the set screws: > http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2007-March/009523.html > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2007-March/009523.html> > (but I guess the donut wasn't a problem?) > > > > And I know another owner who used a huge pipe wrench with some padding, and > yard assistance, but ended up damaging it and needing to get a new one. > > > > Things I've tried: > > - PB Blaster, every day for 4-5 days, around the top, into the set screw > holes, and around the bottom. > > - Loctite Freeze + Release > > - oil filter wrench with rubber pieces to grip > > - threading a bolt into the set screw holes and hammering on that - quickly > abandoned this because it started to bend the screws and I realized it would > strip the set screw holes. > > - C clamps > > - Heat gun (I don't have a torch - however I don't think heat will be very > successful because the mated parts are both stainless steel) > > - Large hose clamp tightened around my rubber gripper ring and hammering on > the hose clamp screw. I really thought this was the genius idea that would > finally work. Nothing budged, even with heavy pounding. But the hose clamp > does the best job of pressing my rubber gripper onto the donut and had no > slippage. > > > > Is there anything I'm missing? Has anyone else had this hard a time getting > the donut off, or found anything else that worked? > > > > The Edson radial drive bolts are also seized, but I have some more things to > try there still, and as last resort it can be cut off and order a new one > ($500). > > > > If I can get the rudder out I might also consider changing the stuffing box, > because that is also seized (looks original and probably hasn't been adjusted > in 5 years). > > > > -Patrick > > 1984 C&C Landfall 38 > > Violet Hour, Seattle, WA > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! > > > > > -- > Joel > 301 541 8551 > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated!
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