Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Richard Davis via CnC-List]

Amazon.

> On Oct 13, 2015, at 7:34 PM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  Chuck et al:
> 
> I have not heard of the productwhere do you buy it?..automotive 
> store, marine store, hardware store?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> On 2015-10-13 11:04 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
>> Not sure why it works, but I saw improvement.  I add an ounce of SEAFOAM to 
>> each gallon of fuel and one ounce to each quart of oil.  I add it to the oil 
>> when I change it each Fall, and I add it to my boat's fuel tank just before 
>> I add fuel.  The can is 16oz and I only add 5 oz to the engine and 5 oz to 
>> the fuel tank when I pour in a 5 gallon jerry can.  The balance of an open 
>> can goes into my car's gas tank.  It's very thin and seems to help starting 
>> and smooth running.  
>> 
>> 
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>> 
>> From: "robert via CnC-List"  
>>  
>> 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: "robert"  
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2015 9:47:52 PM
>> Subject: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
>> 
>> Check this out:
>> 
>> http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/ 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
>> I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I can't recall 
>> exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an additive for gasoline 
>> engines - boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix for power tools and the outboard. I 
>> think of it as a better alternative to Stabil.
>> 
>> Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or added it to 
>> engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.
>> 
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, NC
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List < 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Rick,
>> A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years that 
>> looks better than new, suggested I use SeaFoam in both fuel and engine oil.  
>> It's inexpensive and seems to make starting much easier, so I've been using 
>> that for the last 8 years.  I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for 
>> winter.  Any thoughts on SeaFoam?
>> 
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>> 
>> From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" < 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> >
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: "Rick Brass" < rickbr...@earthlink.net 
>> >
>> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
>> 
>> All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a 
>> dye  in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid.
>> 
>>  
>> When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of 
>> Sulphur content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the 
>> injection pump, injectors, etc.
>> 
>>  
>> In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions standards, 
>> Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM, 
>> and lubricity additives were incorporated in the fuel.
>> 
>>  
>> In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission 
>> standards, Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content on 
>> current fuel is 15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel, 
>> just like a new gas engine is designed for ethanol.
>> 
>>  
>> Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach 
>> technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to your 
>> fuel if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm. 
>> For our size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The 
>> service bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I unfortunately lost when 
>> the laptop’s hard drive went up in smoke) both specifically recommend the 
>> additive from Stanadyne.
>> 
>>  
>> Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add Standyne 
>> lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from Lucas). It 
>> can’t hurt.
>> 
>>  
>> I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tank 
>> full during winter storage. As Josh said, the 
>> nasties live in the water in the tank and eat the diesel (don’t get me 
>> started on bio-diesel). An algaecide and reducing the chances of 
>> condensation in the tank are good policy for avoiding fuel filter problems.
>> 
>>  
>> I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I’m not concerned with the 
>> duel degrading

Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[davepulaski via CnC-List]

So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger for my 
'90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners who have a 
dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures! 

This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.

Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the lines 
of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with putting a 
dodger on a 34+.

First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin top.  Th 
canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger side panels 
and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch handle. 

Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much does 
 it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is difficult 
for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the bridgedeck is 
so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any taller than 
absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.

Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back does 
your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my #1 reason 
for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY spot where she 
can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead and read a book 
while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops at the aft end of the 
cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit thus defeating the whole 
purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the front of the cockpit from 
your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;  not only do I absolutely hate 
biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit in front of the pedestal making a 
bimini pretty much impractical. 

I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated! 

-Dave___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Spare Parts Available

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I may be interested in the riser. Can you send a photo and/or dimensions of it?
I assume it was not the cause of the A4’s demise LOL.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2015 8:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bobmor99 .
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Spare Parts Available

My A4 reached its end of life at the same time that I reached my end of 
patience so it is out to make room for a replacement from Electroprop. The 
various bits and pieces will soon be on Craigslist (Jacksonville). Not sure how 
shipping and all that works (especially to Canada). I'm just looking for some 
sort of "fair market value" (or less). Among the pieces is a brand new, 
stainless exhaust riser.  If there's no interest, it will be mounted as an 
objet d'art in the saloon.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

My experience says foulies have a finite life.  I had high end Henri Lloyd
offshore foulies that self destructed after 10 years or so.  I also had low
end West Marines that blew up after a few years.

I have Musto now and am impressed with them.

I'm beginning to believe it doesn't matter what foulies you get, they're
only going to last a few years, especially if you leave them on the boat.
I say go for them!

Dennis C.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 9:44 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a Gill jacket that I am less than pleased with, the arms soak right
> through. I sprayed it with some waterproofing, but still not too happy with
> it.
>
>
>
> Fisheries Supply is running a sale this week, does anyone have any
> experience with this brand?
>
> Or maybe it would be too hard to be flexible in?
>
> Altho, seems like the guys on Deadliest Catch have to move around a lot -
>
>
>
> *Grundens*
>
> *Product Name:*  Gage Burning Daylight Hooded Jacket, Red/Black - Medium
> 
>
> *Sku#* 389941
> 
>
> *Item ID*  GRU BD300-RED-M
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 Erie
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I have a Gill jacket that I am less than pleased with, the arms soak right 
through. I sprayed it with some waterproofing, but still not too happy with it.

 

Fisheries Supply is running a sale this week, does anyone have any experience 
with this brand?

Or maybe it would be too hard to be flexible in?

Altho, seems like the guys on Deadliest Catch have to move around a lot - 

 

Grundens

Product Name:  Gage Burning 

  Daylight Hooded Jacket, Red/Black - Medium

Sku# 389941 

 

Item ID  GRU BD300-RED-M

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Good reviews on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Grundens-Gage-Burning-Daylight-Jacket/dp/B00656S8AC#customerReviews

Dennis C.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 9:44 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a Gill jacket that I am less than pleased with, the arms soak right
> through. I sprayed it with some waterproofing, but still not too happy with
> it.
>
>
>
> Fisheries Supply is running a sale this week, does anyone have any
> experience with this brand?
>
> Or maybe it would be too hard to be flexible in?
>
> Altho, seems like the guys on Deadliest Catch have to move around a lot -
>
>
>
> *Grundens*
>
> *Product Name:*  Gage Burning Daylight Hooded Jacket, Red/Black - Medium
> 
>
> *Sku#* 389941
> 
>
> *Item ID*  GRU BD300-RED-M
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 Erie
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Send the Gills back.  They have a life-time warranty.  You will probably
get a new jacket.

Joel

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 10:44 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a Gill jacket that I am less than pleased with, the arms soak right
> through. I sprayed it with some waterproofing, but still not too happy with
> it.
>
>
>
> Fisheries Supply is running a sale this week, does anyone have any
> experience with this brand?
>
> Or maybe it would be too hard to be flexible in?
>
> Altho, seems like the guys on Deadliest Catch have to move around a lot -
>
>
>
> *Grundens*
>
> *Product Name:*  Gage Burning Daylight Hooded Jacket, Red/Black - Medium
> 
>
> *Sku#* 389941
> 
>
> *Item ID*  GRU BD300-RED-M
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 Erie
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Depending on how old the Gill gear is, I would contact them directly; they
may well take it back and fix or replace it. That has been my experience
with a bunch of manufacturers.
Personally, I have had good luck with Gill gear through the years and just
got a set of their offshore stuff to replace some free gear I got years ago.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 10:44 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a Gill jacket that I am less than pleased with, the arms soak right
> through. I sprayed it with some waterproofing, but still not too happy with
> it.
>
>
>
> Fisheries Supply is running a sale this week, does anyone have any
> experience with this brand?
>
> Or maybe it would be too hard to be flexible in?
>
> Altho, seems like the guys on Deadliest Catch have to move around a lot -
>
>
>
> *Grundens*
>
> *Product Name:*  Gage Burning Daylight Hooded Jacket, Red/Black - Medium
> 
>
> *Sku#* 389941
> 
>
> *Item ID*  GRU BD300-RED-M
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 Erie
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List harken mk1 furler parts?

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

Hi All - a long shot here.   The top of my furler foil has suffered some wear 
and the parts are no longer available from Harken.  Does anyone have a short 
length of foil extrusion and possibly a connector? Thanks, Dave




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Dave, 

I've got one on mine. it looks original to the boat and is still in pretty 
good shape, I had it re-stitched and windows replaced a couple years ago. 
It does not go very far back but does provide shade if you sit close to 
the bulkhead or even better, lean back on the bulkhead lounge chair 
style.. :-) Here's what it looks like:  
https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/21980567419/in/dateposted-public/

It works well / does not get in the way too much.  When we're racing we 
fully open  / remove the front windows to have completely free access to 
the traveler and all the clearance for the winch handles. A shorter handle 
works better as the longer ones can touch the windows. 

If you really want shade then you add the "Bikini" Bimini..  It's 
basically a Sunbrella extension that zips-up to the dodger on one end and 
has a pole on the other. You attach the middle of the pole to the backstay 
tensionning car  and the ends to the stern pulpit.  It's a bit of a '"rig 
job" but it's good shade for the really hot days.  It's no good for 
sailing in 10 knots of wind or more but just the ticket for lazy 4 knots 
summer afternoons or when motoring / at anchor.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/22154946462/in/dateposted-public/

Like you, I don't like sailing with a bimini anyway.  Except for those 
aforementioned 4 knots lazy summer wine and cheese cruises I'm too OCD to 
sail without constantly looking at my main  / fiddling with trim and helm 
to keep all telltales optimized. 


I can take more detailed pictures if you'd like. 


Take care, 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
lake Lanier, GA


So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger 
for my '90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners 
who have a dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures!?

This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.

Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the 
lines of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with 
putting a dodger on a 34+.

First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin top. 
?Th canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger side 
panels and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch handle.?

Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much 
does ?it create awkward access in and out of the companionway? ?This is 
difficult for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the 
bridgedeck is so very long on these boats. ?I don't want the dodger any 
taller than absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.

Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back 
does your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit? ? This is my 
#1 reason for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy, ?SHADY 
spot where she can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead 
and read a book while I toil away sailing the boat. ? If the dodger stops 
at the aft end of the cabin top, ?it won't provide any shade to the 
cockpit thus defeating the whole purpose. ? Do you guys get any usable 
shade in the front of the cockpit from your dodgers?? A bimini is out of 
the question; ?not only do I absolutely hate biminis, but my travelers is 
in the cockpit in front of the pedestal making a bimini pretty much 
impractical.?

I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated!?

-Dave

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List harken mk1 furler parts?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Try The Yacht Shop in Halifax.  They are a rigging shop.  www.yachtshop.ca  Ask 
for Jamie who is the rigger

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Syerdave--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 12:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List harken mk1 furler parts?

Hi All - a long shot here.   The top of my furler foil has suffered some wear 
and the parts are no longer available from Harken.  Does anyone have a short 
length of foil extrusion and possibly a connector? Thanks, Dave




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Different Boat, but I did mine the opposite way. I made a small bimini and have 
an extension that zips to the front edge and extends forward with a tent pole 
in the front. It can’t be used while sailiing since it is above the boom but 
it’s great while docked or when motoring down the waterway. It also held up 
fine when motoring into a 15 kt breeze. I don’t have a good pic of the awning 
but there are a couple of shots of the bimini in this album-
https://picasaweb.google.com/113975398946611210658/Boat?authuser=0&feat=directlink

James
Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC

From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 12:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard ; davepula...@hotmail.com 
Subject: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

Hi Dave, 

I've got one on mine. it looks original to the boat and is still in pretty good 
shape, I had it re-stitched and windows replaced a couple years ago.  It does 
not go very far back but does provide shade if you sit close to the bulkhead or 
even better, lean back on the bulkhead lounge chair style.. :-) Here's what it 
looks like:  
https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/21980567419/in/dateposted-public/

It works well / does not get in the way too much.  When we're racing we fully 
open  / remove the front windows to have completely free access to the traveler 
and all the clearance for the winch handles. A shorter handle works better as 
the longer ones can touch the windows. 

If you really want shade then you add the "Bikini" Bimini..  It's basically a 
Sunbrella extension that zips-up to the dodger on one end and has a pole on the 
other. You attach the middle of the pole to the backstay tensionning car  and 
the ends to the stern pulpit.  It's a bit of a '"rig job" but it's good shade 
for the really hot days.  It's no good for sailing in 10 knots of wind or more 
but just the ticket for lazy 4 knots summer afternoons or when motoring / at 
anchor.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/22154946462/in/dateposted-public/

Like you, I don't like sailing with a bimini anyway.  Except for those 
aforementioned 4 knots lazy summer wine and cheese cruises I'm too OCD to sail 
without constantly looking at my main  / fiddling with trim and helm to keep 
all telltales optimized.  


I can take more detailed pictures if you'd like.  


Take care, 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
lake Lanier, GA


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[David Blair via CnC-List]

Dave I can take a few pics for you. My dodger is fairly functional although I 
think it could have been extended back a few inches to increase the shade. I 
would like to have a bimini but the length of the boom is really going to limit 
the height and usefulness. To me a decent bimini needs to stand on the pushpit 
to not crowd access around the binnacle. The PO had a complete enclosure built 
but I have the aft hoops in the garage as they restrict movement significantly. 
 It is sunny today and I was going down to check things anyway, so will send 
from my iPhone if you can give me a number to text them to. 

 

Ciao

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of davepulaski 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 1:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: davepulaski
Subject: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

 

So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger for my 
'90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners who have a 
dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures! 

 

This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.

 

Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the lines 
of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with putting a 
dodger on a 34+.

 

First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin top.  Th 
canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger side panels 
and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch handle. 

 

Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much does 
 it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is difficult 
for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the bridgedeck is 
so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any taller than 
absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.

 

Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back does 
your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my #1 reason 
for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY spot where she 
can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead and read a book 
while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops at the aft end of the 
cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit thus defeating the whole 
purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the front of the cockpit from 
your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;  not only do I absolutely hate 
biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit in front of the pedestal making a 
bimini pretty much impractical. 

 

I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated! 

 

-Dave

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List best varnish for underwater use

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

A friend is painting their sailboard's wooden rudder and centerboard.  Won't be 
left underwater for long periods of time - perhaps a few days at a time.  What 
are your recommendations for what to use? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List best varnish for underwater use

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I'm just about to varnish a dinghy rudder. I'm using Epiphanes gloss. That
will work just fine.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 1:43 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A friend is painting their sailboard's wooden rudder and centerboard.
> Won't be left underwater for long periods of time - perhaps a few days at a
> time.  What are your recommendations for what to use?
>
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C&C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[David via CnC-List]

Whatever basic dodge design you use I have one recommendation that I will 
implement in my Dodger 2.0.  Try to have the dodger to deck joint as 
tight/water-resistant as possible.  When it is snotty outside its nice to keep 
those aggressive seas on the working side of the dodger and not hydraulically 
scoping out your wife on the non-working side

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 10:39:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: dblair...@gmail.com

Dave I can take a few pics for you. My dodger is fairly functional although I 
think it could have been extended back a few inches to increase the shade. I 
would like to have a bimini but the length of the boom is really going to limit 
the height and usefulness. To me a decent bimini needs to stand on the pushpit 
to not crowd access around the binnacle. The PO had a complete enclosure built 
but I have the aft hoops in the garage as they restrict movement significantly. 
 It is sunny today and I was going down to check things anyway, so will send 
from my iPhone if you can give me a number to text them to.  Ciao From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of davepulaski via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 1:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: davepulaski
Subject: Stus-List Dodger for 34+ So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker 
about fabricating a dodger for my '90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input 
from other 34+ owners who have a dodger, and I'd really love to see some 
pictures!  This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger. 
Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the lines 
of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with putting a 
dodger on a 34+. First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of 
the cabin top.  Th canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the 
dodger side panels and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch 
handle.  Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how 
much does  it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is 
difficult for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the 
bridgedeck is so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any taller 
than absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons. Third, and this 
is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back does your dodger 
extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my #1 reason for getting 
a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY spot where she can sit facing 
backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead and read a book while I toil away 
sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops at the aft end of the cabin top,  it 
won't provide any shade to the cockpit thus defeating the whole purpose.   Do 
you guys get any usable shade in the front of the cockpit from your dodgers?  A 
bimini is out of the question;  not only do I absolutely hate biminis, but my 
travelers is in the cockpit in front of the pedestal making a bimini pretty 
much impractical.  I really want this done right... any input will be much 
appreciated!  -Dave
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com  
  ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I will try to remember to take some pictures of mine this weekend.  I put it on 
when cruising and most of the time leave the frame up and the canvas off.  Even 
when I put on the canvas, I have never added the side panels, so I view them as 
dispensable.  The empty frame has the advantage of another thing to hold onto 
in the cockpit.  It has the disadvantage of something to hit your head on, 
especially when coming up from below with your head down.  The bimini that came 
with mine (both were purchased by the PO) is pretty useless.  It does not come 
back far enough to cover the helm seat, so in rain it just runs onto your head 
and neck.  There is no frame for the bimini- it zips to the dodger and a bar in 
the back attaches to the backstay.  I would avoid that approach.  Dave

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

> On Oct 14, 2015, at 4:28 AM, davepulaski via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger for 
> my '90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners who have 
> a dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures! 
> 
> This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.
> 
> Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the 
> lines of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with 
> putting a dodger on a 34+.
> 
> First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin top.  
> Th canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger side 
> panels and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch handle. 
> 
> Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much 
> does  it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is 
> difficult for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the 
> bridgedeck is so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any 
> taller than absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.
> 
> Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back does 
> your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my #1 
> reason for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY spot 
> where she can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead and read 
> a book while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops at the aft 
> end of the cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit thus 
> defeating the whole purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the front 
> of the cockpit from your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;  not only 
> do I absolutely hate biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit in front of 
> the pedestal making a bimini pretty much impractical. 
> 
> I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated! 
> 
> -Dave
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List best varnish for underwater use

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I’ve been working with Akzo Noble’s new “varnish” product, AwlWood. Very, very 
nice.

Also very, very spendy….

Best
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Oct 14, 2015, at 1:54 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm just about to varnish a dinghy rudder. I'm using Epiphanes gloss. That 
> will work just fine.
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 1:43 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> A friend is painting their sailboard's wooden rudder and centerboard.  Won't 
> be left underwater for long periods of time - perhaps a few days at a time.  
> What are your recommendations for what to use?
> 
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C&C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> 
> phone  +401 965 5260
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> I have Musto now and am impressed with them.
I also have a set of Musto offshore foul weather gear and have been very 
satisfied.  IIRC they are now nearing 20 years old with usage that includes 2 
Hawaii crossings and 4 PNW to So Cal deliveries.  They still keep me dry and 
warm.  I have noticed some signs of age and wear but for my currently planned 
sailing I expect to get a few more years of use.  They are not made from the 
newer Gore-Tex type material but from old school nylon based materials with 
good dry suit type seals around the wrists and some fiber pile around the 
collar and in the hand sized pockets.  It seemed like a big investment at the 
time but given the long use and high level of comfort I plan on doing the same 
when replacing this set.

If you are planning some entertaining offshore sailing there is a thread over 
on Sailing Anarchy regarding foul weather gear layering for a voyage around 
Cape Horn.  The discussion focuses on how to use multiple Gore-Tex type layers 
for the best combo of letting moisture out while keeping spray/rain at bay.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 8:00 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear

My experience says foulies have a finite life.  I had high end Henri Lloyd 
offshore foulies that self destructed after 10 years or so.  I also had low end 
West Marines that blew up after a few years.

I have Musto now and am impressed with them.
I'm beginning to believe it doesn't matter what foulies you get, they're only 
going to last a few years, especially if you leave them on the boat.  I say go 
for them!

Dennis C.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 9:44 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have a Gill jacket that I am less than pleased with, the arms soak right 
through. I sprayed it with some waterproofing, but still not too happy with it.

Fisheries Supply is running a sale this week, does anyone have any experience 
with this brand?
Or maybe it would be too hard to be flexible in?
Altho, seems like the guys on Deadliest Catch have to move around a lot -


Grundens

Product Name:  Gage Burning Daylight Hooded Jacket, Red/Black - 
Medium

Sku# 
389941

Item ID  GRU BD300-RED-M

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

++ for the Musto.

I’ve had lots of FW gear over the years, all the way back to Patagonia’s 
original offerings (who remembers those!?) and have settled on Musto for 
comfort and dryness. Won’t go wrong with the purchase...

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Oct 14, 2015, at 2:35 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > I have Musto now and am impressed with them.
> 
> I also have a set of Musto offshore foul weather gear and have been very 
> satisfied.  IIRC they are now nearing 20 years old with usage that includes 2 
> Hawaii crossings and 4 PNW to So Cal deliveries.  They still keep me dry and 
> warm.  I have noticed some signs of age and wear but for my currently planned 
> sailing I expect to get a few more years of use.  They are not made from the 
> newer Gore-Tex type material but from old school nylon based materials with 
> good dry suit type seals around the wrists and some fiber pile around the 
> collar and in the hand sized pockets.  It seemed like a big investment at the 
> time but given the long use and high level of comfort I plan on doing the 
> same when replacing this set.
>  
> If you are planning some entertaining offshore sailing there is a thread over 
> on Sailing Anarchy regarding foul weather gear layering for a voyage around 
> Cape Horn.  The discussion focuses on how to use multiple Gore-Tex type 
> layers for the best combo of letting moisture out while keeping spray/rain at 
> bay.
>  
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 8:00 AM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear
>  
> My experience says foulies have a finite life.  I had high end Henri Lloyd 
> offshore foulies that self destructed after 10 years or so.  I also had low 
> end West Marines that blew up after a few years.
> 
> I have Musto now and am impressed with them.
> 
> I'm beginning to believe it doesn't matter what foulies you get, they're only 
> going to last a few years, especially if you leave them on the boat.  I say 
> go for them!
>  
> Dennis C.
>  
> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 9:44 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I have a Gill jacket that I am less than pleased with, the arms soak right 
> through. I sprayed it with some waterproofing, but still not too happy with 
> it.
>  
> Fisheries Supply is running a sale this week, does anyone have any experience 
> with this brand?
> Or maybe it would be too hard to be flexible in?
> Altho, seems like the guys on Deadliest Catch have to move around a lot -
>  
> Grundens
> 
> Product Name:  Gage Burning Daylight Hooded Jacket, Red/Black - Medium 
> 
> Sku# 389941 
> 
> Item ID  GRU BD300-RED-M
> 
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39 Erie
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Dave the OP, (lot of Dave/Davids in this post…),

Although not a 34+ owner, if you haven’t already thought about it, you may wish 
to specify that the side panels be made using clear material like the front of 
the dodger. This is how my dodger setup is and when the panels (removable…) are 
in the visibility is pretty good. I’m not fond of the “dark cave” effect of 
many dodgers.

Best
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Oct 14, 2015, at 2:08 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I will try to remember to take some pictures of mine this weekend.  I put it 
> on when cruising and most of the time leave the frame up and the canvas off.  
> Even when I put on the canvas, I have never added the side panels, so I view 
> them as dispensable.  The empty frame has the advantage of another thing to 
> hold onto in the cockpit.  It has the disadvantage of something to hit your 
> head on, especially when coming up from below with your head down.  The 
> bimini that came with mine (both were purchased by the PO) is pretty useless. 
>  It does not come back far enough to cover the helm seat, so in rain it just 
> runs onto your head and neck.  There is no frame for the bimini- it zips to 
> the dodger and a bar in the back attaches to the backstay.  I would avoid 
> that approach.  Dave
> 
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
> Core Microscopy Facility Director
> University of Connecticut 
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> Storrs, CT 06269
> 860-486-2200
> 
>> On Oct 14, 2015, at 4:28 AM, davepulaski via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger for 
>> my '90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners who 
>> have a dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures! 
>> 
>> This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.
>> 
>> Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the 
>> lines of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with 
>> putting a dodger on a 34+.
>> 
>> First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin top.  
>> Th canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger side 
>> panels and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch handle. 
>> 
>> Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much 
>> does  it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is 
>> difficult for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the 
>> bridgedeck is so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any 
>> taller than absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.
>> 
>> Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back 
>> does your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my #1 
>> reason for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY spot 
>> where she can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead and 
>> read a book while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops at the 
>> aft end of the cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit thus 
>> defeating the whole purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the front 
>> of the cockpit from your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;  not 
>> only do I absolutely hate biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit in 
>> front of the pedestal making a bimini pretty much impractical. 
>> 
>> I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated! 
>> 
>> -Dave
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Which side of your wife is her non-working side?

Sorry, that was off topic.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 1:55 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Whatever basic dodge design you use I have one recommendation that I will
> implement in my Dodger 2.0.  Try to have the dodger to deck joint as
> tight/water-resistant as possible.  When it is snotty outside its nice to
> keep those aggressive seas on the working side of the dodger and not
> hydraulically scoping out your wife on the non-working side
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 10:39:34 -0700
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: dblair...@gmail.com
>
> Dave I can take a few pics for you. My dodger is fairly functional
> although I think it could have been extended back a few inches to increase
> the shade. I would like to have a bimini but the length of the boom is
> really going to limit the height and usefulness. To me a decent bimini
> needs to stand on the pushpit to not crowd access around the binnacle. The
> PO had a complete enclosure built but I have the aft hoops in the garage as
> they restrict movement significantly.  It is sunny today and I was going
> down to check things anyway, so will send from my iPhone if you can give me
> a number to text them to.
>
>
>
> Ciao
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *davepulaski
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 14, 2015 1:28 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* davepulaski
> *Subject:* Stus-List Dodger for 34+
>
>
>
> So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger
> for my '90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners
> who have a dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures!
>
>
>
> This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.
>
>
>
> Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the
> lines of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with
> putting a dodger on a 34+.
>
>
>
> First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin
> top.  Th canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger
> side panels and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch
> handle.
>
>
>
> Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much
> does  it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is
> difficult for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the
> bridgedeck is so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any
> taller than absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.
>
>
>
> Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back
> does your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my
> #1 reason for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY
> spot where she can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead
> and read a book while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops
> at the aft end of the cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit
> thus defeating the whole purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the
> front of the cockpit from your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;
>  not only do I absolutely hate biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit
> in front of the pedestal making a bimini pretty much impractical.
>
>
>
> I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated!
>
>
>
> -Dave
>
> ___ Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>

Bill
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

All,

I’m also a big fan of MUSTO. Never been warmer or dryer. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise (Hauling out Friday)
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 












> On Oct 14, 2015, at 2:39 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> ++ for the Musto.
> 
> I’ve had lots of FW gear over the years, all the way back to Patagonia’s 
> original offerings (who remembers those!?) and have settled on Musto for 
> comfort and dryness. Won’t go wrong with the purchase...
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>> On Oct 14, 2015, at 2:35 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> > I have Musto now and am impressed with them.
>> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Here is a different approach, ie. DIY hard dodger. It is very intriguing to
me as the stitches begin to dissolve on our dodger though I would prefer to
use an FRP panel over Starboard...

http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/cruising-news/roger-dodger/

btw @ James Delaney, the picture of that outboard powered jet ski at the
mooring is excellent!

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 11:47 AM William Hall via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Which side of your wife is her non-working side?
>
> Sorry, that was off topic.
>
> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 1:55 PM, David via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> Whatever basic dodge design you use I have one recommendation that I will
>> implement in my Dodger 2.0.  Try to have the dodger to deck joint as
>> tight/water-resistant as possible.  When it is snotty outside its nice to
>> keep those aggressive seas on the working side of the dodger and not
>> hydraulically scoping out your wife on the non-working side
>>
>> David F. Risch
>> 1981 40-2
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>>
>>
>> --
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 10:39:34 -0700
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> CC: dblair...@gmail.com
>>
>> Dave I can take a few pics for you. My dodger is fairly functional
>> although I think it could have been extended back a few inches to increase
>> the shade. I would like to have a bimini but the length of the boom is
>> really going to limit the height and usefulness. To me a decent bimini
>> needs to stand on the pushpit to not crowd access around the binnacle. The
>> PO had a complete enclosure built but I have the aft hoops in the garage as
>> they restrict movement significantly.  It is sunny today and I was going
>> down to check things anyway, so will send from my iPhone if you can give me
>> a number to text them to.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ciao
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>> *davepulaski
>> via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 14, 2015 1:28 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* davepulaski
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Dodger for 34+
>>
>>
>>
>> So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger
>> for my '90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners
>> who have a dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures!
>>
>>
>>
>> This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.
>>
>>
>>
>> Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the
>> lines of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with
>> putting a dodger on a 34+.
>>
>>
>>
>> First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin
>> top.  Th canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger
>> side panels and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch
>> handle.
>>
>>
>>
>> Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how
>> much does  it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This
>> is difficult for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because
>> the bridgedeck is so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any
>> taller than absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.
>>
>>
>>
>> Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back
>> does your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my
>> #1 reason for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY
>> spot where she can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead
>> and read a book while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops
>> at the aft end of the cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit
>> thus defeating the whole purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the
>> front of the cockpit from your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;
>>  not only do I absolutely hate biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit
>> in front of the pedestal making a bimini pretty much impractical.
>>
>>
>>
>> I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>> ___ Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
>> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> Bill
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your l

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Edd, there is an article on this in the October (latest) edition of cruising 
world using FRP panels from Home Depot.  It looks easier than starboard.

Tim
Branford, CT

> On Oct 14, 2015, at 2:58 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Here is a different approach, ie. DIY hard dodger. It is very intriguing to 
> me as the stitches begin to dissolve on our dodger though I would prefer to 
> use an FRP panel over Starboard...
> 
> http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/cruising-news/roger-dodger/
> 
> btw @ James Delaney, the picture of that outboard powered jet ski at the 
> mooring is excellent!
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 11:47 AM William Hall via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Which side of your wife is her non-working side?
>> 
>> Sorry, that was off topic.
>> 
>>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 1:55 PM, David via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> Whatever basic dodge design you use I have one recommendation that I will 
>>> implement in my Dodger 2.0.  Try to have the dodger to deck joint as 
>>> tight/water-resistant as possible.  When it is snotty outside its nice to 
>>> keep those aggressive seas on the working side of the dodger and not 
>>> hydraulically scoping out your wife on the non-working side
>>> 
>>> David F. Risch
>>> 1981 40-2
>>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>>> 
>>> 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 10:39:34 -0700
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+
>>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> CC: dblair...@gmail.com
>>> 
>>> Dave I can take a few pics for you. My dodger is fairly functional although 
>>> I think it could have been extended back a few inches to increase the 
>>> shade. I would like to have a bimini but the length of the boom is really 
>>> going to limit the height and usefulness. To me a decent bimini needs to 
>>> stand on the pushpit to not crowd access around the binnacle. The PO had a 
>>> complete enclosure built but I have the aft hoops in the garage as they 
>>> restrict movement significantly.  It is sunny today and I was going down to 
>>> check things anyway, so will send from my iPhone if you can give me a 
>>> number to text them to.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Ciao
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
>>> davepulaski via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 1:28 AM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: davepulaski
>>> Subject: Stus-List Dodger for 34+
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger 
>>> for my '90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners 
>>> who have a dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures! 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the 
>>> lines of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with 
>>> putting a dodger on a 34+.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin top.  
>>> Th canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger side 
>>> panels and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch handle. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much 
>>> does  it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is 
>>> difficult for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the 
>>> bridgedeck is so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any 
>>> taller than absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back 
>>> does your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my 
>>> #1 reason for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY 
>>> spot where she can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead 
>>> and read a book while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops 
>>> at the aft end of the cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit 
>>> thus defeating the whole purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the 
>>> front of the cockpit from your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;  
>>> not only do I absolutely hate biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit 
>>> in front of the pedestal making a bimini pretty much impractical. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated! 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> -Dave
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___ Email address: 
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including 
>>> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: 
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listi

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Kevin, I spotted that Jet Ski at Great Guana Key in the Abacos this summer and 
had to take a pic of it! I have no idea how he rigged up steering cables or the 
throttle but it looked hilarious! The mud bank it was sitting on wasn’t 
something I wanted to slog through and the water was too shallow for the dinghy 
so I didn’t get a close up look.
James
Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC

From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 2:58 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Kevin Driscoll ; William Hall 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

Here is a different approach, ie. DIY hard dodger. It is very intriguing to me 
as the stitches begin to dissolve on our dodger though I would prefer to use an 
FRP panel over Starboard... 

http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/cruising-news/roger-dodger/


btw @ James Delaney, the picture of that outboard powered jet ski at the 
mooring is excellent!

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 11:47 AM William Hall via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Which side of your wife is her non-working side? 

  Sorry, that was off topic.

  On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 1:55 PM, David via CnC-List  
wrote:

Whatever basic dodge design you use I have one recommendation that I will 
implement in my Dodger 2.0.  Try to have the dodger to deck joint as 
tight/water-resistant as possible.  When it is snotty outside its nice to keep 
those aggressive seas on the working side of the dodger and not hydraulically 
scoping out your wife on the non-working side

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)





To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 10:39:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: dblair...@gmail.com


Dave I can take a few pics for you. My dodger is fairly functional although 
I think it could have been extended back a few inches to increase the shade. I 
would like to have a bimini but the length of the boom is really going to limit 
the height and usefulness. To me a decent bimini needs to stand on the pushpit 
to not crowd access around the binnacle. The PO had a complete enclosure built 
but I have the aft hoops in the garage as they restrict movement significantly. 
 It is sunny today and I was going down to check things anyway, so will send 
from my iPhone if you can give me a number to text them to. 



Ciao



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
davepulaski via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 1:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: davepulaski
Subject: Stus-List Dodger for 34+



So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger 
for my '90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners who 
have a dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures! 



This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.



Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the 
lines of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with 
putting a dodger on a 34+.



First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin top.  
Th canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger side panels 
and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch handle. 



Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much 
does  it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is 
difficult for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the 
bridgedeck is so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any taller 
than absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.



Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back 
does your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my #1 
reason for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY spot where 
she can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead and read a book 
while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops at the aft end of the 
cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit thus defeating the whole 
purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the front of the cockpit from 
your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;  not only do I absolutely hate 
biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit in front of the pedestal making a 
bimini pretty much impractical. 



I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated! 



-Dave


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
botto

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Canadian Tire, $12.50

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-13 11:16 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

Chuck et al:

I have not heard of the productwhere do you buy 
it?..automotive store, marine store, hardware store?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-13 11:04 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
Not sure why it works, but I saw improvement.  I add an ounce of 
SEAFOAM to each gallon of fuel and one ounce to each quart of oil.  I 
add it to the oil when I change it each Fall, and I add it to my 
boat's fuel tank just before I add fuel.  The can is 16oz and I only 
add 5 oz to the engine and 5 oz to the fuel tank when I pour in a 5 
gallon jerry can.  The balance of an open can goes into my car's gas 
tank.  It's very thin and seems to help starting and smooth running.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"robert via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc: *"robert" 
*Sent: *Tuesday, October 13, 2015 9:47:52 PM
*Subject: *Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

Check this out:

http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/



Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I
can't recall exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an
additive for gasoline engines - boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix
for power tools and the outboard. I think of it as a better
alternative to Stabil.

Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or
added it to engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List
 wrote:

Hi Rick,
A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25
years that looks better than new, suggested I use *SeaFoam
*in both fuel and engine oil.  It's inexpensive and seems to
make starting much easier, so I've been using that for the
last 8 years.  I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for
winter.  Any thoughts on SeaFoam?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc: *"Rick Brass" 
*Sent: *Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red
stuff just has a dye  in it to indicate that the highway fuel
tax has not been paid.

When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per
million of Sulphur content. The Sulphur was a significant
factor in lubricating the injection pump, injectors, etc.

In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2
emissions standards, Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory.
Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM, and lubricity
additives were incorporated in the fuel.

In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3
emission standards, Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became
mandatory. Sulphur content on current fuel is 15 PPM. A new
Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel, just like a new
gas engine is designed for ethanol.

Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used
to teach technicians about) all recommend that you add a
lubricity additive to your fuel if your engine was built
before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm. For our size
engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The
service bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I
unfortunately lost when the laptop’s hard drive went up in
smoke) both specifically recommend the additive from Stanadyne.

Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still
add Standyne lubricity additive (although I do occasional use
a product from Lucas). It can’t hurt.

I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to
keep my tank full during winter storage. As Josh said, the
nasties live in the water in the tank and eat the diesel
(don’t get me started on bio-diesel). An algaecide and
reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good
policy for avoiding fuel filter problems.

I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I’m not
concerned with the duel degrading in storage like you get
with ethanol stored in a boat. Diesel can generally be stored
for about two years without significant degradation.

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

*From:*CnC

Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Here are some pictures of the Dodger on 
Alera. 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/7544707930/in/album-72157629350057893/ 
It was done by Iverson our of Olympia.  http://www.iversonsdesign.com/


Since the main sheet is at the aft end of the boom, the depth as 
limited and we could not do a full enclosure like those with house 
mounter main sheet can do.  But it is nice to have a place to hide in 
tough weather.


Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


At 12:50 PM 10/14/2015, you wrote:

--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 14:37:12 -0400
From: Dave Godwin 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+
Message-ID: <7e4a1d70-26af-4816-9fb3-d7195b037...@me.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Dave the OP, (lot of Dave/Davids in this post?),

Although not a 34+ owner, if you haven?t already thought about it, 
you may wish to specify that the side panels be made using clear 
material like the front of the dodger. This is how my dodger setup 
is and when the panels (removable?) are in the visibility is pretty 
good. I?m not fond of the ?dark cave? effect of many dodgers.


Best
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin?s Overdue Refit 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

https://picasaweb.google.com/113820107769936378062/Windstar2#6021225444699983090

Am fairly happy with this dodger profile on my 33ii.   Make sure you set the 
height so that any helmsmen can see over or under the frame.  The Handrails on 
the side are very useful.  The bimini design is good, with the exception that 
you cannot see the masthead from the helm.  It keeps the rain and sun off.   
Strangely, the PO had put a window in the connector piece, between the dodger 
and bimini, which cannot be used under sail due to the cockpit traveller.  
Also, when the traveller is off to one side, and the sheets are eased, they 
foul the side of the dodger.   I have "running dodger stays" where I slack the 
one side when the situation occurs.

We like to sail with the dodger window open - better to see.  Make sure you 
canvas maker facilitates being able to fasten the window to the top of the 
dodger, rather than loosely rolled up in the opening,  blocking view.  I have a 
short winch handle that allows me to use the cabin top winches.

Dave







___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

My latest revision to my dodger was to make the front window zip out & able to 
be completely removed--this eliminates the hassle of rolling it up.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Oct 14, 2015, at 4:55 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/113820107769936378062/Windstar2#6021225444699983090
> 
> Am fairly happy with this dodger profile on my 33ii.   Make sure you set the 
> height so that any helmsmen can see over or under the frame.  The Handrails 
> on the side are very useful.  The bimini design is good, with the exception 
> that you cannot see the masthead from the helm.  It keeps the rain and sun 
> off.   Strangely, the PO had put a window in the connector piece, between the 
> dodger and bimini, which cannot be used under sail due to the cockpit 
> traveller.  Also, when the traveller is off to one side, and the sheets are 
> eased, they foul the side of the dodger.   I have "running dodger stays" 
> where I slack the one side when the situation occurs.
> 
> We like to sail with the dodger window open - better to see.  Make sure you 
> canvas maker facilitates being able to fasten the window to the top of the 
> dodger, rather than loosely rolled up in the opening,  blocking view.  I have 
> a short winch handle that allows me to use the cabin top winches.
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Ditto on clear side panels and add hand holds to rear and sides.  



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
wrote:

Dave the OP, (lot of Dave/Davids in this post…),


Although not a 34+ owner, if you haven’t already thought about it, you may wish 
to specify that the side panels be made using clear material like the front of 
the dodger. This is how my dodger setup is and when the panels (removable…) are 
in the visibility is pretty good. I’m not fond of the “dark cave” effect of 
many dodgers.


Best

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit


On Oct 14, 2015, at 2:08 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:


I will try to remember to take some pictures of mine this weekend.  I put it on 
when cruising and most of the time leave the frame up and the canvas off.  Even 
when I put on the canvas, I have never added the side panels, so I view them as 
dispensable.  The empty frame has the advantage of another thing to hold onto 
in the cockpit.  It has the disadvantage of something to hit your head on, 
especially when coming up from below with your head down.  The bimini that came 
with mine (both were purchased by the PO) is pretty useless.  It does not come 
back far enough to cover the helm seat, so in rain it just runs onto your head 
and neck.  There is no frame for the bimini- it zips to the dodger and a bar in 
the back attaches to the backstay.  I would avoid that approach.  Dave


Dr. David Knecht

Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology

Core Microscopy Facility Director

University of Connecticut   

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200


On Oct 14, 2015, at 4:28 AM, davepulaski via CnC-List  
wrote:


So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger for my 
'90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners who have a 
dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures! 


This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.


Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the lines 
of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with putting a 
dodger on a 34+.


First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin top.  Th 
canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger side panels 
and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch handle. 


Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much does 
 it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is difficult 
for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the bridgedeck is 
so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any taller than 
absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.


Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back does 
your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my #1 reason 
for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY spot where she 
can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead and read a book 
while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops at the aft end of the 
cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit thus defeating the whole 
purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the front of the cockpit from 
your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;  not only do I absolutely hate 
biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit in front of the pedestal making a 
bimini pretty much impractical. 


I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated! 


-Dave

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

My 36XL dose not have a dodger installed so if I get caught in the rain, I get 
wet. That's OK with me since I am a fair weather inshore sailor/racer anyway.

OTOH, for local deliveries or short distance cruising in the Carolina sounds in 
the summer, I often use my bimini. 
It just fits under the boom but is short of the traveler just forward of the 
binnacle so I can sail off the wind with it (although I usually don't).

It is open all around so there is not much rain protection. However, if you are 
motoring in the summer in the southeast, especially singlehanding, I consider 
it a safety
issue to be able to get under it and out of the direct sun. Even if I had a 
functioning auto-pilot, I would install the bimini. On a windless summer day 
making
7 knots under power is barely enough to avoid sunstroke--especially if you have 
no shade.

Charlie Nelson  

cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: William Walker via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: wwadjourn 
Sent: Wed, Oct 14, 2015 5:08 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+



Ditto on clear side panels and add hand holds to rear and sides.  


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
wrote:

Dave the OP, (lot of Dave/Davids in this post…),


Although not a 34+ owner, if you haven’t already thought about it, you may wish 
to specify that the side panels be made using clear material like the front of 
the dodger. This is how my dodger setup is and when the panels (removable…) are 
in the visibility is pretty good. I’m not fond of the “dark cave” effect of 
many dodgers.


Best



Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit






On Oct 14, 2015, at 2:08 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:


I will try to remember to take some pictures of mine this weekend.  I put it on 
when cruising and most of the time leave the frame up and the canvas off.  Even 
when I put on the canvas, I have never added the side panels, so I view them as 
dispensable.  The empty frame has the advantage of another thing to hold onto 
in the cockpit.  It has the disadvantage of something to hit your head on, 
especially when coming up from below with your head down.  The bimini that came 
with mine (both were purchased by the PO) is pretty useless.  It does not come 
back far enough to cover the helm seat, so in rain it just runs onto your head 
and neck.  There is no frame for the bimini- it zips to the dodger and a bar in 
the back attaches to the backstay.  I would avoid that approach.  Dave


Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut 
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200




On Oct 14, 2015, at 4:28 AM, davepulaski via CnC-List  
wrote:



So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger for my 
'90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners who have a 
dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures! 


This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.


Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the lines 
of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with putting a 
dodger on a 34+.


First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin top.  Th 
canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger side panels 
and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch handle. 


Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much does 
 it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is difficult 
for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the bridgedeck is 
so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any taller than 
absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.


Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back does 
your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my #1 reason 
for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY spot where she 
can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead and read a book 
while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops at the aft end of the 
cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit thus defeating the whole 
purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the front of the cockpit from 
your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;  not only do I absolutely hate 
biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit in front of the pedestal making a 
bimini pretty much impractical. 


I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated! 


-Dave
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-li

Stus-List Fitting a Solent stay

[corralmaduzi via CnC-List]

Hi there sailors,
I've eventually become the proud owner of a C&C 40 and would like to know who 
has fitted a Solent-stay and if they could share the info on how to go about 
it.It will be for cruising and used either for going up-wind with a smaller 
Genoa or a storm-jib when necessary. I would appreciate any info.
Thanks. 
Saltyspearo.


Sent from my GT-I9305T on the Telstra 4G network___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fitting a Solent stay

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Saw this this morning...
http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/The-DIY-Solent-Stay-or-Inner-Forestay-11840-1.html?ET=practicalsailor:e30620:652553a:&st=email&s=p_waypoints101415

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 3:36 PM corralmaduzi via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi there sailors,
> I've eventually become the proud owner of a C&C 40 and would like to know
> who has fitted a Solent-stay and if they could share the info on how to go
> about it.It will be for cruising and used either for going up-wind with a
> smaller Genoa or a storm-jib when necessary. I would appreciate any info.
> Thanks.
> Saltyspearo.
>
>
> Sent from my GT-I9305T on the Telstra 4G network
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fitting a Solent stay

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Congrats on the new boat. The 40 is pretty much my ideal (budget) cruising 
boat. 
Given the location of out huge anchor locker, I'm not sure you could fit a 
Solent stay on our boats.  I have seen a staysl stay fitted aft of the anchor 
locker with a chain plate down the fwd bulkhead and a storm jib hung off that. 
Frankly, I am pretty happy--even in the lightest winds--sailing with a 100% 
jib. Mind you, if the breeze is under 15 and aft of 80 degrees, I put up the 
asymmetric kite. It's easy to do singlehanded thanks to the sock.


Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Oct 14, 2015, at 18:55, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Saw this this morning...
> http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/The-DIY-Solent-Stay-or-Inner-Forestay-11840-1.html?ET=practicalsailor:e30620:652553a:&st=email&s=p_waypoints101415
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 3:36 PM corralmaduzi via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi there sailors,
>> I've eventually become the proud owner of a C&C 40 and would like to know 
>> who has fitted a Solent-stay and if they could share the info on how to go 
>> about it.It will be for cruising and used either for going up-wind with a 
>> smaller Genoa or a storm-jib when necessary. I would appreciate any info.
>> Thanks. 
>> Saltyspearo.
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my GT-I9305T on the Telstra 4G network
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fitting a Solent stay

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Not a huge fan of the solent solution.  For light air, I think you are far 
better off with a furling spinnaker, Doyle UPS, etc.  For a storm sail solution 
it really depends.  For constant use a dedicated inner forestay is preferable.  
For the cruising I did, (offshore to the BVI followed by island hopping) a 
“semi permanent” inner stay was the solution. When we knew we were going 
offshore one off us would go up the mast and install it; simple turnbuckle on 
the deck side.  For island hopping we would take it down and have all the 
benefits of a clear foredeck.

Just an opinion.

John

> On Oct 14, 2015, at 6:35 PM, corralmaduzi via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi there sailors,
> I've eventually become the proud owner of a C&C 40 and would like to know who 
> has fitted a Solent-stay and if they could share the info on how to go about 
> it.It will be for cruising and used either for going up-wind with a smaller 
> Genoa or a storm-jib when necessary. I would appreciate any info.
> Thanks. 
> Saltyspearo.
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9305T on the Telstra 4G network
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 117, Issue 52

[Barry Millers via CnC-List]

er because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY 
>>> spot where she can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead 
>>> and read a book while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops 
>>> at the aft end of the cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit 
>>> thus defeating the whole purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the 
>>> front of the cockpit from your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;  
>>> not only do I absolutely hate biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit 
>>> in front of the pedestal making a bimini pretty much impractical. 
>>> 
>>> I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated! 
>>> 
>>> -Dave
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20151014/847e98d9/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 14:39:54 -0400
> From: Dave Godwin 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> ++ for the Musto.
> 
> I?ve had lots of FW gear over the years, all the way back to Patagonia?s 
> original offerings (who remembers those!?) and have settled on Musto for 
> comfort and dryness. Won?t go wrong with the purchase...
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin?s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
>>> On Oct 14, 2015, at 2:35 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I have Musto now and am impressed with them.
>> 
>> I also have a set of Musto offshore foul weather gear and have been very 
>> satisfied.  IIRC they are now nearing 20 years old with usage that includes 
>> 2 Hawaii crossings and 4 PNW to So Cal deliveries.  They still keep me dry 
>> and warm.  I have noticed some signs of age and wear but for my currently 
>> planned sailing I expect to get a few more years of use.  They are not made 
>> from the newer Gore-Tex type material but from old school nylon based 
>> materials with good dry suit type seals around the wrists and some fiber 
>> pile around the collar and in the hand sized pockets.  It seemed like a big 
>> investment at the time but given the long use and high level of comfort I 
>> plan on doing the same when replacing this set.
>> 
>> If you are planning some entertaining offshore sailing there is a thread 
>> over on Sailing Anarchy regarding foul weather gear layering for a voyage 
>> around Cape Horn.  The discussion focuses on how to use multiple Gore-Tex 
>> type layers for the best combo of letting moisture out while keeping 
>> spray/rain at bay.
>> 
>> Martin DeYoung
>> Calypso
>> 1971 C&C 43
>> Seattle
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 8:00 AM
>> To: CnClist
>> Cc: Dennis C.
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear
>> 
>> My experience says foulies have a finite life.  I had high end Henri Lloyd 
>> offshore foulies that self destructed after 10 years or so.  I also had low 
>> end West Marines that blew up after a few years.
>> 
>> I have Musto now and am impressed with them.
>> 
>> I'm beginning to believe it doesn't matter what foulies you get, they're 
>> only going to last a few years, especially if you leave them on the boat.  I 
>> say go for them!
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 9:44 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> I have a Gill jacket that I am less than pleased with, the arms soak right 
>> through. I sprayed it with some w

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[svpegasus38]

I just got a new dodger, the front window zips out or swings up and hangs 
from snaps on the bottom side of the dodger top. Thinking of doing the same to 
the transition panel between dodger and bimini. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Robert Boyer via CnC-ListDate: Wed, Oct 14, 
2015 14:02To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Robert Boyer;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Dodger for 34+
My latest revision to my dodger was to make the front window zip out & able to 
be completely removed--this eliminates the hassle of rolling it up.
Bob

Bob BoyerS/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230email: 
dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
On Oct 14, 2015, at 4:55 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List  
wrote:

https://picasaweb.google.com/113820107769936378062/Windstar2#6021225444699983090

Am fairly happy with this dodger profile on my 33ii.   Make sure you set the 
height so that any helmsmen can see over or under the frame.  The Handrails on 
the side are very useful.  The bimini design is good, with the exception that 
you cannot see the masthead from the helm.  It keeps the rain and sun off.   
Strangely, the PO had put a window in the connector piece, between the dodger 
and bimini, which cannot be used under sail due to the cockpit traveller.  
Also, when the traveller is off to one side, and the sheets are eased, they 
foul the side of the dodger.   I have "running dodger stays" where I slack the 
one side when the situation occurs.

We like to sail with the dodger window open - better to see.  Make sure you 
canvas maker facilitates being able to fasten the window to the top of the 
dodger, rather than loosely rolled up in the opening,  blocking view.  I have a 
short winch handle that allows me to use the cabin top winches.

Dave







___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Seafoam reminds me of the Marvel Mystery Oil claims. I can't find MMO 
at Canadian tire any more, used it in the A4 (oil & gas) regularly.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:47 PM 13/10/2015, you wrote:

Check this out:

http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/



Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I 
can't recall exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an 
additive for gasoline engines - boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix for 
power tools and the outboard. I think of it as a better alternative to Stabil.


Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or 
added it to engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Hi Rick,
A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years 
that looks better than new, suggested I use SeaFoam in both fuel 
and engine oil.  It's inexpensive and seems to make starting much 
easier, so I've been using that for the last 8 years.  I use 
Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for winter.  Any thoughts on SeaFoam?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


--
From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff 
just has a dye  in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid.




When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million 
of Sulphur content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in 
lubricating the injection pump, injectors, etc.




In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions 
standards, Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content 
was reduced to 500 PPM, and lubricity additives were incorporated in the fuel.




In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 
emission standards, Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. 
Sulphur content on current fuel is 15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is 
designed to run on ULS fuel, just like a new gas engine is 
designed for ethanol.




Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to 
teach technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity 
additive to your fuel if your engine was built before Tier 3 and 
ULS diesel became the norm. For our size engines that means about 
2010 (1 year later in Canada). The service bulletins from Yanmar 
and Cummins (which I unfortunately lost when the laptop's hard 
drive went up in smoke) both specifically recommend the additive 
from Stanadyne.




Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add 
Standyne lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a 
product from Lucas). It can't hurt.




I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep 
my tank full during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live 
in the water in the tank and eat the diesel (don't get me started 
on bio-diesel). An algaecide and reducing the chances of 
condensation in the tank are good policy for avoiding fuel filter problems.




I've used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I'm not concerned 
with the duel degrading in storage like you get with ethanol 
stored in a boat. Diesel can generally be stored for about two 
years without significant degradation.




Rick Brass

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Richard N. Bush via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush <bushma...@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?



With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my 
boat is a 1985 37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for 
my annual diesel fill up and the pumps were out of order; so I had 
to get diesel from a street gas station; although the cost was 
almost a dollar per gallon cheaper, I noted that it was the 
"green" color rather than the "red" color; so my question is do I 
need to put some type of sulpher additive or something along those 
lines into this fuel? I did motor with it for an extended time on 
Sunday with no adverse effects; in addition to this question, what 
should I use for the upcoming winter layup? many thanks




Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255





Email address: Cn

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[jim schwartz via CnC-List]

any pictures?
jim
sea ya!
lf38



-Original Message-
From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: svpegasus38 
Sent: Wed, Oct 14, 2015 9:48 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+



I just got a new dodger, the front window zips out or swings up and hangs from 
snaps on the bottom side of the dodger top. Thinking of doing the same to the 
transition panel between dodger and bimini. 



Doug Mountjoy
svPegasus
LF38 
just west of Ballard, WA.






-- Original message--
From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List
Date: Wed, Oct 14, 2015 14:02
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
Cc: Robert Boyer;
Subject:Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+



My latest revision to my dodger was to make the front window zip out & able to 
be completely removed--this eliminates the  hassle of rolling it up.


Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com



"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame


On Oct 14, 2015, at 4:55 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List  
wrote:



https://picasaweb.google.com/113820107769936378062/Windstar2#6021225444699983090

Am fairly happy with this dodger profile on my 33ii.   Make sure you set the 
height so that any helmsmen can see over or under the frame.  The Handrails on 
the side are very useful.  The bimini design is good, with the exception that 
you cannot see the masthead from the helm.  It keeps the rain and sun off.   
Strangely, the PO had put a window in the connector piece, between the dodger 
and bimini, which cannot be used under sail due to the cockpit traveller.  
Also, when the traveller is off to one side, and the sheets are eased, they 
foul the side of the dodger.   I have "running dodger stays" where I slack the 
one side when the situation occurs.

We like to sail with the dodger window open - better to see.  Make sure you 
canvas maker facilitates being able to fast en the window to the top of the 
dodger, rather than loosely rolled up in the opening,  blocking view.  I have a 
short winch handle that allows me to use the cabin top winches.

Dave







___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___

Email
address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including
unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[svpegasus38]

Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: jim schwartz via CnC-List Date: Wed, Oct 14, 
2015 19:37To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: detroit...@aol.com;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List Dodger for 34+
any pictures?jimsea ya!lf38


-Original Message-
From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List >
To: cnc-list >
Cc: svpegasus38 >
Sent: Wed, Oct 14, 2015 9:48 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

I just got a new dodger, the front window zips out or swings up and hangs 
from snaps on the bottom side of the dodger top. Thinking of doing the same to 
the transition panel between dodger and bimini. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.

-- Original message--From: Robert Boyer via CnC-ListDate: Wed, Oct 14, 
2015 14:02To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Robert Boyer;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Dodger for 34+
My latest revision to my dodger was to make the front window zip out & able to 
be completely removed--this eliminates the  hassle of rolling it up.
Bob

Bob BoyerS/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230email: 
dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
On Oct 14, 2015, at 4:55 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List  
wrote:

https://picasaweb.google.com/113820107769936378062/Windstar2#6021225444699983090

Am fairly happy with this dodger profile on my 33ii.   Make sure you set the 
height so that any helmsmen can see over or under the frame.  The Handrails on 
the side are very useful.  The bimini design is good, with the exception that 
you cannot see the masthead from the helm.  It keeps the rain and sun off.   
Strangely, the PO had put a window in the connector piece, between the dodger 
and bimini, which cannot be used under sail due to the cockpit traveller.  
Also, when the traveller is off to one side, and the sheets are eased, they 
foul the side of the dodger.   I have "running dodger stays" where I slack the 
one side when the situation occurs.

We like to sail with the dodger window open - better to see.  Make sure you 
canvas maker facilitates being able to fast en the window to the top of the 
dodger, rather than loosely rolled up in the opening,  blocking view.  I have a 
short winch handle that allows me to use the cabin top winches.

Dave







___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___Emailaddress:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo
 change your list preferences, includingunsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
pageat:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[svpegasus38]

I can send them off list. Contact me there. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: jim schwartz via CnC-List Date: Wed, Oct 14, 
2015 19:37To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: detroit...@aol.com;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List Dodger for 34+
any pictures?jimsea ya!lf38


-Original Message-
From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List >
To: cnc-list >
Cc: svpegasus38 >
Sent: Wed, Oct 14, 2015 9:48 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

I just got a new dodger, the front window zips out or swings up and hangs 
from snaps on the bottom side of the dodger top. Thinking of doing the same to 
the transition panel between dodger and bimini. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.

-- Original message--From: Robert Boyer via CnC-ListDate: Wed, Oct 14, 
2015 14:02To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Robert Boyer;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Dodger for 34+
My latest revision to my dodger was to make the front window zip out & able to 
be completely removed--this eliminates the  hassle of rolling it up.
Bob

Bob BoyerS/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230email: 
dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
On Oct 14, 2015, at 4:55 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List  
wrote:

https://picasaweb.google.com/113820107769936378062/Windstar2#6021225444699983090

Am fairly happy with this dodger profile on my 33ii.   Make sure you set the 
height so that any helmsmen can see over or under the frame.  The Handrails on 
the side are very useful.  The bimini design is good, with the exception that 
you cannot see the masthead from the helm.  It keeps the rain and sun off.   
Strangely, the PO had put a window in the connector piece, between the dodger 
and bimini, which cannot be used under sail due to the cockpit traveller.  
Also, when the traveller is off to one side, and the sheets are eased, they 
foul the side of the dodger.   I have "running dodger stays" where I slack the 
one side when the situation occurs.

We like to sail with the dodger window open - better to see.  Make sure you 
canvas maker facilitates being able to fast en the window to the top of the 
dodger, rather than loosely rolled up in the opening,  blocking view.  I have a 
short winch handle that allows me to use the cabin top winches.

Dave







___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___Emailaddress:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo
 change your list preferences, includingunsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
pageat:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Paul Baker via CnC-List]

I get seafoam at Lordco.

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 19:17:57 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: russ...@telus.net





Seafoam reminds me of the Marvel Mystery Oil claims. I can't find MMO at
Canadian tire any more, used it in the A4 (oil & gas)
regularly.


Cheers,
Russ

Sweet
35 mk-1


At 06:47 PM 13/10/2015, you wrote:

Check this out:



http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/





Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.


On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

I suspect most old car guys are
familiar with Seafoam. Though I can't recall exactly what is in it. I've
always used it as an additive for gasoline engines - boat fuel, mower
fuel, oil mix for power tools and the outboard. I think of it as a better
alternative to Stabil.


Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or added it
to engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.


Rick Brass

Washington, NC


Sent from my iPad


On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List

wrote:


Hi Rick,

A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years that
looks better than new, suggested I use SeaFoam in both fuel and
engine oil.  It's inexpensive and seems to make starting much
easier, so I've been using that for the last 8 years.  I use Bio-Flo
Jr when I top off the tank for winter.  Any thoughts on
SeaFoam?


Chuck

Resolute

1990 C&C 34R

Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md



From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List"


To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: "Rick Brass"


Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?


All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a
dye  in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been
paid.


 


When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of
Sulphur content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the
injection pump, injectors, etc.


 


In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions
standards, Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was
reduced to 500 PPM, and lubricity additives were incorporated in the
fuel.


 


In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission
standards, Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content on
current fuel is 15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS
fuel, just like a new gas engine is designed for ethanol.


 


Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach
technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to
your fuel if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became
the norm. For our size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in
Canada). The service bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I
unfortunately lost when the laptop’s hard drive went up in smoke) both
specifically recommend the additive from Stanadyne.


 


Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add Standyne
lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from Lucas).
It can’t hurt.


 


I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tank
full during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in the water
in the tank and eat the diesel (don’t get me started on bio-diesel). An
algaecide and reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good
policy for avoiding fuel filter problems.


 


I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I’m not concerned with the
duel degrading in storage like you get with ethanol stored in a boat.
Diesel can generally be stored for about two years without significant
degradation.


 


Rick Brass


Washington, NC


 


 


 


From: CnC-List
[
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N.
Bush via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM

To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Richard N. Bush


Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?


 


With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a
1985 37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel
fill up and the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a
street gas station; although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon
cheaper, I noted that it was the "green" color rather than the
"red" color; so my question is do I need to put some type of
sulpher additive or something along those lines into this fuel? I did
motor with it for an extended time on Sunday with no adverse effects; in
addition to this question, what should I use for the upcoming winter
layup? many thanks 


 


Richard


1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;




Richard N. Bush  

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255


 


 


Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To
change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 



_