Re: Stus-List bottom paint > Vivid For Sale

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

I have also used Micron 66 with great success for the past 6 years.  Changed to 
it after years with VC Offshore when was more actively racing but VC’s weekly 
cleanings and wet sanding prior to launch just became annoying.  

 

Had planned to try VIVID and bought 3 gallons as was going to be racing more 
but have decided to stay with Micron 66.  

 

So I have 3 gal. of VIVID and 1 gal. of Pettit’s 120 solvent available for sale 
at a very good price to any interested party.  

 

Please contact me off list:  nausetbeach  optonline.net

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 5:43 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint

 

Mike

If I kept my boat in the northwest Arm I would go with Bob's experience...use 
Micron 66 if you can get it...as you know Bob is quite meticulous about Azura 
and he follows manufacturer's directions well...one year he had so much growth 
on his prop (2 blade fixed) in late september that the boat had a hard time 
making headway under power...the prop was foulded extremley bad...next year Bob 
asked this list for advice with his prop fouling issue...I knew he had such 
good results with Micron 66 on Azura's bottom so I suggested that if he didn't 
mind having a painted black prop before launch rather than shiny bronze he 
could just try painting it as well with Micron 66...I believe he did paint the 
prop and achieved good results...something about the critters in the Northwest 
Arm, very prolific... and somewhat resitant to normal copper oxide 
toxins...Micron 66 might just have the right copper toxins and added biocide 
for the moment...but those critters adapt to their environment so this coming 
season may be different, anyway you have seen Azura with your own eyes, think 
you could expect more than that from any paint.  Micon 66, Micron CSC, Amercoat 
ABC 4 or???...if you are looking for more speed, look somewhere esle for bigger 
gains, the performance of thse paints are quite similar...if your boat's bottom 
is in top notch shape go for one with multiyear ablative properties and do the 
job once ever 3-4 years instead of every year, like i do.

The copper oxide content is primarily resposnbile for the higher cost of some 
antifouling paints and the better paints often weigh more per volume due to 
higher copper oxide content

 

Yes I use Amercoat ABC 4 and like Mike Amirault says my boat spends the summer 
on a mooring right at the head of the Bay, sort of brakish water, shallow at 
about 12 feet and warm enough for swimming from mid june until 
september...Amercoat works fine for me but I apply a thin coat (about 2 liters 
solvent diluted before spring launch every year) so one gallon does about 2 
years...no pressure wash after haulout and very little prep before application 
before launch...I have used Micron CSC, expensive by comparison and no 
noticebale difference...I use a very thin layer of black Amercoat over blue 
Micron  CSC and no issues with adherence...I have noted that Mike's C&C 33 MKII 
is very slippery as well

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net  

 

 

On Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bob told me about Micron 66 repeatedly and showed me Azura bottom in December.  
It is how he described.

I have used Micron CSC, VC Offshore and whatever came on our boat last year 
(similar to CSC).  I would haul Nut Case at least three times per year (could 
use a crane so was cheap).  1st time would be mid July at a race week after in 
water for 1.5 months – bottom looked clean but scrubbed anyway. 2nd time Labour 
day weekend at beginning September when we brought the boat back to Halifax 
from its summer location on Northumberland Strait.  There would be some slime 
and whatever it is that grows on the flat undersides in a star shaped pattern.  
Last haulout would be end of October in Halifax after sitting on a mooring in 
NW Arm approx. 150 feet from Bob’s boat.  Would be slime and also grass growing 
on the vertical surfaces.  This mattered not weather Micron CSC or VC Offshore.

Last year Persistence came with another manufacturer version of Micron CSC.  
Was launched in June, hauled mid July to work on Transducers, hauled Sept 8 to 
work on propeller shaft, relaunched Sept 19 and hauled 1st week November.  Was 
dirty on each haulout.

When I compare my experiences with Bob’s on Azura with Micron 66 I cannot 
conceive using Micron CSC.  The pain of obtaining Micron 66 has made me 
consider Ameron ABC #4 because a 1D35 in our area has been using for 10 years 
and owners say it is closest thing to Micron 66 available in Canada.  They 
insist it is closer to Micron 66 in its properties than to Micron CSC.

All of the above are racing paints and that is also a consideration even

Re: Stus-List bottom paint > Vivid For Sale

[Harry Hallgring via CnC-List]

What color?

Harry
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 12, 2015, at 07:09, Nauset Beach via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have also used Micron 66 with great success for the past 6 years.  Changed 
> to it after years with VC Offshore when was more actively racing but VC’s 
> weekly cleanings and wet sanding prior to launch just became annoying. 
>  
> Had planned to try VIVID and bought 3 gallons as was going to be racing more 
> but have decided to stay with Micron 66. 
>  
> So I have 3 gal. of VIVID and 1 gal. of Pettit’s 120 solvent available for 
> sale at a very good price to any interested party. 
>  
> Please contact me off list:  nausetbeach  optonline.net
>  
> Brian
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
> veinot via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 5:43 PM
> To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
>  
> Mike
> 
> If I kept my boat in the northwest Arm I would go with Bob's experience...use 
> Micron 66 if you can get it...as you know Bob is quite meticulous about Azura 
> and he follows manufacturer's directions well...one year he had so much 
> growth on his prop (2 blade fixed) in late september that the boat had a hard 
> time making headway under power...the prop was foulded extremley bad...next 
> year Bob asked this list for advice with his prop fouling issue...I knew he 
> had such good results with Micron 66 on Azura's bottom so I suggested that if 
> he didn't mind having a painted black prop before launch rather than shiny 
> bronze he could just try painting it as well with Micron 66...I believe he 
> did paint the prop and achieved good results...something about the critters 
> in the Northwest Arm, very prolific... and somewhat resitant to normal copper 
> oxide toxins...Micron 66 might just have the right copper toxins and added 
> biocide for the moment...but those critters adapt to their environment so 
> this coming season may be different, anyway you have seen Azura with your own 
> eyes, think you could expect more than that from any paint.  Micon 66, Micron 
> CSC, Amercoat ABC 4 or???...if you are looking for more speed, look somewhere 
> esle for bigger gains, the performance of thse paints are quite similar...if 
> your boat's bottom is in top notch shape go for one with multiyear ablative 
> properties and do the job once ever 3-4 years instead of every year, like i 
> do.
> The copper oxide content is primarily resposnbile for the higher cost of some 
> antifouling paints and the better paints often weigh more per volume due to 
> higher copper oxide content
>  
> Yes I use Amercoat ABC 4 and like Mike Amirault says my boat spends the 
> summer on a mooring right at the head of the Bay, sort of brakish water, 
> shallow at about 12 feet and warm enough for swimming from mid june until 
> september...Amercoat works fine for me but I apply a thin coat (about 2 
> liters solvent diluted before spring launch every year) so one gallon does 
> about 2 years...no pressure wash after haulout and very little prep before 
> application before launch...I have used Micron CSC, expensive by comparison 
> and no noticebale difference...I use a very thin layer of black Amercoat over 
> blue Micron  CSC and no issues with adherence...I have noted that Mike's C&C 
> 33 MKII is very slippery as well
>  
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>  
>  
> On Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Bob told me about Micron 66 repeatedly and showed me Azura bottom in 
> December.  It is how he described.
> I have used Micron CSC, VC Offshore and whatever came on our boat last year 
> (similar to CSC).  I would haul Nut Case at least three times per year (could 
> use a crane so was cheap).  1st time would be mid July at a race week after 
> in water for 1.5 months – bottom looked clean but scrubbed anyway. 2nd time 
> Labour day weekend at beginning September when we brought the boat back to 
> Halifax from its summer location on Northumberland Strait.  There would be 
> some slime and whatever it is that grows on the flat undersides in a star 
> shaped pattern.  Last haulout would be end of October in Halifax after 
> sitting on a mooring in NW Arm approx. 150 feet from Bob’s boat.  Would be 
> slime and also grass growing on the vertical surfaces.  This mattered not 
> weather Micron CSC or VC Offshore.
> Last year Persistence came with another manufacturer version of Micron CSC.  
> Was launched in June, hauled mid July to work on Transducers, hauled Sept 8 
> to work on propeller shaft, relaunched Sept 19 and hauled 1st week November.  
> Was dirty on each haulout.
> When I compare my experiences with Bob’s on Azura with Micron 66 I cannot 
> conceive using Micron CSC.  The pain of obtaining Micron 66 has made me 
> consider Ameron ABC #4 because a 1D35 in our area has been using for 10 years 
> and owners say it is closest th

Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Genetic engineering?? Uh oh 

KHAAN!!!

http://i0.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/original/000/002/357/400px-khan.jpg 

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize




At 07:45 PM 11/03/2015, you wrote:
> h...
> 
> Genetic engineering
> 
> The possibilities...the possibilities...
> 
> 
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2015 22:41:58 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list.  This 
> group has an amazing array or talents and experiences, not just in sailing 
> but also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, chemistry etc. etc. The only 
> engineering I can provide advice on is genetic engineering and I suspect 
> there are not going to be a lot of questions on that topic.  Sigh!  
> I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what gets this 
> one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well each works in this 
> not uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting wrenches dumped over a while 
> back and of course ended up in the bilge in salt water.  No more ratcheting 
> happening there.  
> As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time ago as a 
> penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but found that the 
> two are not miscible and phase separate almost immediately. Is that expected 
> and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave
> 
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
>   

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Re: Stus-List bottom paints

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Bob

$309/gal (USD) at most dealers in Maine.  West Marine seems to stock it.  
Unfortunately none of these dealers are on my way next week.  By Contrast 
Amercoat ABC #4 I can get around $200/gal (CAD)

Unfortunately our boats are just a bit too big and too heavy for the club crane 
so scrubbing mid season is expensive.  The Dehler DB2 Highlander is just light 
enough for the crane  but then Dan does not have all the goodies like 
refrigeration and hot water ...

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 12:27 AM
To: dwight veinot; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List bottom paints

Mike:

After what I heard on this list this week, when I run out of Micron 66, heaven 
forbid, I will use Amercoat ABC 4..and it doesn't cost as much as Micron 
CSC.

Still gotta a year to find a new supply of 66like they say, necessity is 
the ??

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-03-11 6:42 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
Mike
If I kept my boat in the northwest Arm I would go with Bob's experience...use 
Micron 66 if you can get it...as you know Bob is quite meticulous about Azura 
and he follows manufacturer's directions well...one year he had so much growth 
on his prop (2 blade fixed) in late september that the boat had a hard time 
making headway under power...the prop was foulded extremley bad...next year Bob 
asked this list for advice with his prop fouling issue...I knew he had such 
good results with Micron 66 on Azura's bottom so I suggested that if he didn't 
mind having a painted black prop before launch rather than shiny bronze he 
could just try painting it as well with Micron 66...I believe he did paint the 
prop and achieved good results...something about the critters in the Northwest 
Arm, very prolific... and somewhat resitant to normal copper oxide 
toxins...Micron 66 might just have the right copper toxins and added biocide 
for the moment...but those critters adapt to their environment so this coming 
season may be different, anyway you have seen Azura with your own eyes, think 
you could expect more than that from any paint.  Micon 66, Micron CSC, Amercoat 
ABC 4 or???...if you are looking for more speed, look somewhere esle for bigger 
gains, the performance of thse paints are quite similar...if your boat's bottom 
is in top notch shape go for one with multiyear ablative properties and do the 
job once ever 3-4 years instead of every year, like i do.
The copper oxide content is primarily resposnbile for the higher cost of some 
antifouling paints and the better paints often weigh more per volume due to 
higher copper oxide content

Yes I use Amercoat ABC 4 and like Mike Amirault says my boat spends the summer 
on a mooring right at the head of the Bay, sort of brakish water, shallow at 
about 12 feet and warm enough for swimming from mid june until 
september...Amercoat works fine for me but I apply a thin coat (about 2 liters 
solvent diluted before spring launch every year) so one gallon does about 2 
years...no pressure wash after haulout and very little prep before application 
before launch...I have used Micron CSC, expensive by comparison and no 
noticebale difference...I use a very thin layer of black Amercoat over blue 
Micron  CSC and no issues with adherence...I have noted that Mike's C&C 33 MKII 
is very slippery as well

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Bob told me about Micron 66 repeatedly and showed me Azura bottom in December.  
It is how he described.

I have used Micron CSC, VC Offshore and whatever came on our boat last year 
(similar to CSC).  I would haul Nut Case at least three times per year (could 
use a crane so was cheap).  1st time would be mid July at a race week after in 
water for 1.5 months - bottom looked clean but scrubbed anyway. 2nd time Labour 
day weekend at beginning September when we brought the boat back to Halifax 
from its summer location on Northumberland Strait.  There would be some slime 
and whatever it is that grows on the flat undersides in a star shaped pattern.  
Last haulout would be end of October in Halifax after sitting on a mooring in 
NW Arm approx. 150 feet from Bob's boat.  Would be slime and also grass growing 
on the vertical surfaces.  This mattered not weather Micron CSC or VC Offshore.

Last year Persistence came with another manufacturer version of Micron CSC.  
Was launched in June, hauled mid July to work on Transducers, hauled Sept 8 to 
work on propeller shaft, relaunched Sept 19 and hauled 1st week November.  Was 
dirty on each haulout.

When I compare my experiences with Bob's on Azura with Micron 66 I cannot 
conceive using Micron CSC.  The pain of obtaining Micron 66 has made me 
consider Ameron ABC #4 because a 1D35 in our area has bee

Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I recently learned of the importance of using wires for refrigeration systems 
that are 2 sizes larger than the anchor wire charts recommend--it is amazing 
how the voltage drop experienced otherwise reduces the efficiency of the 
fridge.  

Since this is your first foray into boat wiring, use tinned wire and generally 
follow the Anchor wire size recommendations.  (The longer the run, the heavier 
the wire should become.)  Also, I highly recommend using a good crimping 
tool--it makes a difference!

By the way, all the original wiring on our C&Cs were un-tinned because tinned 
wire was not readily available thirty years ago.  I have replaced most of my 
original wiring but there are some embedded in the cabin roof that I can't 
replace.  One change that works in our favor is the increased used of LED bulbs 
and their reduced electrical needs compared to thirty years ago.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame___

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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Also be aware that ABYC standards say that a maximum of three terminals can 
live on any bolt or screw terminal. I’d guess your setup probably exceeds that 
by quite a bit.  Dennis is right, it’s time for some proper terminal strips or 
bus bars.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 11, 2015, at 10:11 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I am feeling a bit foolish right now. The PO did install a ground bus in the 
> battery compartment.  Since it wasn't in with the electrical panel I didn't 
> put 2 and 2 together. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Mar 11, 2015, at 11:07 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
>> This would be a good time to install a ground bus bar or a Blue Sea 
>> PowerPost Plus.
>> 
>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2300/Common_150A_BusBar_-_10_Gang_with_Cover
>> 
>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/PowerPost_Connectors/PowerPost_Plus
>> 
>> Dennis C.

___

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Stus-List Tool recommendation

[robert via CnC-List]

As the saying goes "A little dab will do ya".

Rich, your cockpit cover has torn at the back end of your boom ..the 
pretty, purple piece of form you put on top of the boom end to prevent 
this didn't work against the forces of nature. Hopefully, we are over 
the worst of winter's weather.  If there is anything I can do, let me know.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-03-12 1:27 AM, Rich Knowles wrote:

And, as Rob knows, it’s good over ice!

Rich Knowles (in Nanaimo)
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.





On Mar 11, 2015, at 20:13, robert via CnC-List > wrote:


David:

I will be brave to face  a genetic engineer.I suspect the 50-50 
acetone ATF concoction has more to do with the 'acetone' than the 
'ATF'.  I said earlier last week that I thought it was Power Steering 
Fluid ...both are petroleum based..its the acetonemaybe 
the petroleum based additive gives us sense of comfortthink about 
itmost of us are more comfortable with a drop of 'oil' than a drop 
of 'acetone'.


I think it is the 50 % acetone that makes this concoction 
effective.it can be mixed with any petroleum product 50%-50% and 
do its thing.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax,N.S,

On 2015-03-11 11:41 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list. 
 This group has an amazittng array or talents and experiences, not 
just in sailing but also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, 
chemistry etc. etc. The only engineering I can provide advice on is 
genetic engineering and I suspect there are not going to be a lot of 
questions on that topic.  Sigh!
I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what 
gets this one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well 
each works in this not uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting 
wrenches dumped over a while back and of course ended up in the bilge 
in salt water.  No more ratcheting happening there.
As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time 
ago as a penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but 
found that the two are not miscible and phase separate almost 
immediately. Is that expected and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave




Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Common-Busbar/dp/B0091VHLW4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426163554&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+sea+bus+bar

:)

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 8:29 AM
To: Joseph Scott; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

Also be aware that ABYC standards say that a maximum of three terminals can 
live on any bolt or screw terminal. I'd guess your setup probably exceeds that 
by quite a bit.  Dennis is right, it's time for some proper terminal strips or 
bus bars.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 11, 2015, at 10:11 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I am feeling a bit foolish right now. The PO did install a ground bus in the 
battery compartment.  Since it wasn't in with the electrical panel I didn't put 
2 and 2 together.


Sent from my iPad

On Mar 11, 2015, at 11:07 PM, Dennis C. 
mailto:capt...@gmail.com>> wrote:
This would be a good time to install a ground bus bar or a Blue Sea PowerPost 
Plus.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2300/Common_150A_BusBar_-_10_Gang_with_Cover

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/PowerPost_Connectors/PowerPost_Plus
Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Also, coat all crimp connections and the connectors with TefGel prior to
crimping and connecting.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546

Dennis C.

On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 7:28 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I recently learned of the importance of using wires for refrigeration
> systems that are 2 sizes larger than the anchor wire charts recommend--it
> is amazing how the voltage drop experienced otherwise reduces the
> efficiency of the fridge.
>
> Since this is your first foray into boat wiring, use tinned wire and
> generally follow the Anchor wire size recommendations.  (The longer the
> run, the heavier the wire should become.)  Also, I highly recommend using a
> good crimping tool--it makes a difference!
>
> By the way, all the original wiring on our C&Cs were un-tinned because
> tinned wire was not readily available thirty years ago.  I have replaced
> most of my original wiring but there are some embedded in the cabin roof
> that I can't replace.  One change that works in our favor is the increased
> used of LED bulbs and their reduced electrical needs compared to thirty
> years ago.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Isn't the FAA phrase for that "controlled flight into terrain"?

Dennis C.

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 11:18 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Airplanes only get grounded on mountains though.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>   --
>  *From:* Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
> *To:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 10, 2015 4:29 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report
>
> That kind of mistake REALLY hurts in an airplane
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Joe,

Three?  Thought it was 4.  More to do!

Is there an easy way to mount a bus bar to the hull?  Epoxy a wood block to
it?

Joel

On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 9:28 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Also, coat all crimp connections and the connectors with TefGel prior to
> crimping and connecting.
>
> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 7:28 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I recently learned of the importance of using wires for refrigeration
>> systems that are 2 sizes larger than the anchor wire charts recommend--it
>> is amazing how the voltage drop experienced otherwise reduces the
>> efficiency of the fridge.
>>
>> Since this is your first foray into boat wiring, use tinned wire and
>> generally follow the Anchor wire size recommendations.  (The longer the
>> run, the heavier the wire should become.)  Also, I highly recommend using a
>> good crimping tool--it makes a difference!
>>
>> By the way, all the original wiring on our C&Cs were un-tinned because
>> tinned wire was not readily available thirty years ago.  I have replaced
>> most of my original wiring but there are some embedded in the cabin roof
>> that I can't replace.  One change that works in our favor is the increased
>> used of LED bulbs and their reduced electrical needs compared to thirty
>> years ago.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Bob Boyer
>> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
>> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>>
>> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
>> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Yes – CFIT.
CFIT was reduced when the GPWS system was developed. This is basically a depth 
finder for airplanes with an alarm for rising terrain. It used radar instead of 
sound to measure height.  It worked great on gradually rising ground – a cliff 
not so much. Now we have TAWS which uses GPS and a terrain map. This can 
predict in advance what you might hit, which is much better. My S-H plotter I 
have got but not yet installed has a similar function to set an alarm if your 
course goes through shallow water. I haven’t yet tried that function. This is a 
sample of a modern GPS driven display:
https://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/sv-d1000_straight_on.jpg



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 9:31 AM
To: Ronald B. Frerker; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

Isn't the FAA phrase for that "controlled flight into terrain"?
Dennis C.

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 11:18 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Airplanes only get grounded on mountains though.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL



From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

That kind of mistake REALLY hurts in an airplane




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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

Not sure what compressor you’re using, but for me Danfoss BD50 control module 
was cutting out due to significant voltage drop at the compressor.  Make sure 
your fridge wires are good gauge.  I ended up running 2x10AWG.  Two 10AWG for 
positive and two for return.  Any by return I mean not just to a nearest 
ground.  Back to the battery or negative high power bus bar.  My main culprit 
for voltage drop was the main panel switch I used to turn the fridge on/off. 
After few months of headaches and troubleshooting,  I ended up re-purposing the 
switch.  Instead of a panel switch, I just have AGC fuse which I install in the 
spring and take out in the fall.  For me, there is no other way to shut off the 
fridge.  The double 10AWG was added prior to finding that switch was the main 
culprit.  I left it as it could only help.  

Also, bus bars Dennis mentioned would help with voltage drops for all your 
loads. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 11:07 PM
To: Joseph Scott; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

 

This would be a good time to install a ground bus bar or a Blue Sea PowerPost 
Plus.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2300/Common_150A_BusBar_-_10_Gang_with_Cover

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/PowerPost_Connectors/PowerPost_Plus

Dennis C.

 

 

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 9:19 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Yep, that's exactly how my panel is and I did see those bolts. I guess I was 
expecting a bar or something.  Thanks a lot. This is my first electrical 
project.

Sent from my iPad


> On Mar 11, 2015, at 10:13 PM, Rick Brass  wrote:
>
> Remove the panel from its mounting slots (lift up, pull the bottom forward,
> and then lower out of the top slot. That's the way mine is rigged. If
> different from yours, just ignore this email.)
>
> On the starboard side of the wiring compartment about 4 or 5 inches from the
> top you should see two "bolts" sticking out about an inch or two. One of
> these is the ground and will have a bunch of black wires affixed to it. One
> of the fatter black wires in the common ground for all the panel wiring down
> to the battery wire connection on the engine block.
>
> The other "bolt" on my boat is the common positive from the battery 1-2-all
> switch to the panel, and most of the fuses get power from this point.
>
>
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi  1976 C&C 38 mk 2
> Hull # 049
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
> Scott via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 9:47 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel
>
> Hey All
>
> I am looking at installing a DC refrig system.  The old one I pulled out was
> AC so I need  to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see it
> a place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the negative
> or anywhere that the negative comes into the panel.  Shouldn't it be there
> somewhere?
>
> Thanks
>
> Joe
>
> Sent from my
> ___
>
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
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>

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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

This may help.  Remember length of wire run is there and back.  If wire is
in sheath, increase wire one size.



or

http://www.marinco.com/en/services/wire-data/three-percent-voltage-drop

The first link is brought to you by your wonderful C&C online resource.
Don't forget to contribute to keep this resource viable.



If you want a voltage drop calculator for your smartphone, go here:



Dennis C.


On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 9:06 AM, Petar Horvatic  wrote:

> Hi Joe,
>
> Not sure what compressor you’re using, but for me Danfoss BD50 control
> module was cutting out due to significant voltage drop at the compressor.
> Make sure your fridge wires are good gauge.  I ended up running 2x10AWG.
> Two 10AWG for positive and two for return.  Any by return I mean not just
> to a nearest ground.  Back to the battery or negative high power bus bar.
> My main culprit for voltage drop was the main panel switch I used to turn
> the fridge on/off. After few months of headaches and troubleshooting,  I
> ended up re-purposing the switch.  Instead of a panel switch, I just have
> AGC fuse which I install in the spring and take out in the fall.  For me,
> there is no other way to shut off the fridge.  The double 10AWG was added
> prior to finding that switch was the main culprit.  I left it as it could
> only help.
>
> Also, bus bars Dennis mentioned would help with voltage drops for all your
> loads.
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C&C 38MkII
>
> Newport, RI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Joel,

My original ground bus is screwed directly to the cored hull.  I wanted to
re-fit it with a block of wood but that would have pushed the bus bar too
close to the (+) bus.  I pulled the mounting screws, sealed the holes with
CPES, reinstalled the screws.  For the new ground bus I epoxied a wood
block to the hull and then I painted the block and hull with epoxy to give
a nice finished and sealled look.  I mounted the new ground bus to the
block once all the epoxy was cured.  Pine 1"x2" cut to length and all
corners rounded worked great.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD
On Mar 12, 2015 9:40 AM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Joe,
>
> Three?  Thought it was 4.  More to do!
>
> Is there an easy way to mount a bus bar to the hull?  Epoxy a wood block
> to it?
>
> Joel
>
> On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 9:28 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Also, coat all crimp connections and the connectors with TefGel prior to
>> crimping and connecting.
>>
>> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 7:28 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I recently learned of the importance of using wires for refrigeration
>>> systems that are 2 sizes larger than the anchor wire charts recommend--it
>>> is amazing how the voltage drop experienced otherwise reduces the
>>> efficiency of the fridge.
>>>
>>> Since this is your first foray into boat wiring, use tinned wire and
>>> generally follow the Anchor wire size recommendations.  (The longer the
>>> run, the heavier the wire should become.)  Also, I highly recommend using a
>>> good crimping tool--it makes a difference!
>>>
>>> By the way, all the original wiring on our C&Cs were un-tinned because
>>> tinned wire was not readily available thirty years ago.  I have replaced
>>> most of my original wiring but there are some embedded in the cabin roof
>>> that I can't replace.  One change that works in our favor is the increased
>>> used of LED bulbs and their reduced electrical needs compared to thirty
>>> years ago.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> Bob Boyer
>>> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
>>> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
>>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>>>
>>> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as
>>> simply messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Damn When the PO's rocket scientists rewired my 1980 version, they 
separated the panels (AC and DC) and put stud type buses on the DC side - both 
for the red wires and the black. And they trimmed the wires to make a great 
looking back of the panel. But.. the wires are too short to hook to a 
proper bus bar. The red wires are OK, because they are each run to a breaker, 
but all the grounds are on a single stud! I have sat in the lazerette a bunch 
of times in the last 20+ years and have tried to figure out how to make this 
fix - to no avail. So, I keep making sure all is tight back there and figure 
that 20 or so splices would be worse than a common stud.

Gary 
30-1
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
  To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 9:39 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel


  Joe,


  Three?  Thought it was 4.  More to do!


  Is there an easy way to mount a bus bar to the hull?  Epoxy a wood block to 
it?


  Joel


  On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 9:28 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Also, coat all crimp connections and the connectors with TefGel prior to 
crimping and connecting.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546


Dennis C.



On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 7:28 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  I recently learned of the importance of using wires for refrigeration 
systems that are 2 sizes larger than the anchor wire charts recommend--it is 
amazing how the voltage drop experienced otherwise reduces the efficiency of 
the fridge.  


  Since this is your first foray into boat wiring, use tinned wire and 
generally follow the Anchor wire size recommendations.  (The longer the run, 
the heavier the wire should become.)  Also, I highly recommend using a good 
crimping tool--it makes a difference!


  By the way, all the original wiring on our C&Cs were un-tinned because 
tinned wire was not readily available thirty years ago.  I have replaced most 
of my original wiring but there are some embedded in the cabin roof that I 
can't replace.  One change that works in our favor is the increased used of LED 
bulbs and their reduced electrical needs compared to thirty years ago.


  Bob

  Bob Boyer
  S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
  1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
  email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
  blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com


  "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

  ___

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bottom of page at:
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  -- 

  Joel 
  301 541 8551


--


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Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I have no idea from a real world test how acetone and ATF work together as
a penetrating oil, but it does seem unlikely it works well. First off they
should not mix so they do not form a homogeneous solution. I would guess
that 100% acetone would work well to penetrate but it is not very slippery.
Even most hydraulic fluids are not naturally slippery, they require modifiers.
Power steering fluid and ATF are closely related, but likely have differences
in things like anti-foam additives. Doubt it would be a critical difference for
a home brew penetrating oil.

Some of the normal vegetable oils are much more slippery, and do mix
with acetone.

https://www.engineeringforchange.org/news/2012/08/14/how_to_make_penetrating_oil.html

So 10% acetone and 90% vegetable oil may work as well as acetone - ATF.


The home brew formula may have started with 1,1,1-trichloroethane (a/k/a methyl 
chloroform)
and ATF - Ed's Red formula. Doubt it was worth the hazards involved.

http://fireironmfg.proboards.com/thread/87/penetrating-oil


The one thing that I have noticed is that when two properly sized and clean 
threads have
locked together nothing will penetrate to any degree that will help. That is 
why pipe thread
can handle pressure and not leak. Yes, it is tapered and has a specific thread 
but normal
non-tapered thread can seal as well.

Just speculating, but on an old rusty nut that was not torqued down hard the 
acetone
may do all the penetrating and loosen things up. The ATF may not penetrate at 
all but
helps when backing the nut off. So the fact that they do not mix is not a 
problem.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1




 
Message: 12 
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2015 00:13:08 -0300 
From: robert  
To: David Knecht , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation 
Message-ID: <55010444.5040...@eastlink.ca> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" 
 
David: 
 
I will be brave to face  a genetic engineer.I suspect the 50-50  
acetone ATF concoction has more to do with the 'acetone' than the  
'ATF'.  I said earlier last week that I thought it was Power Steering  
Fluid ...both are petroleum based..its the acetonemaybe the  
petroleum based additive gives us sense of comfortthink about  
itmost of us are more comfortable with a drop of 'oil' than a drop  
of 'acetone'. 
 
I think it is the 50 % acetone that makes this concoction  
effective.it can be mixed with any petroleum product 50%-50% and do  
its thing. 
 
Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax,N.S, 
 
On 2015-03-11 11:41 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: 
> I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list.  
>  This group has an amazittng array or talents and experiences, not  
> just in sailing but also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics,  
> chemistry etc. etc. The only engineering I can provide advice on is  
> genetic engineering and I suspect there are not going to be a lot of  
> questions on that topic.  Sigh! 
> I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what gets  
> this one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well each  
> works in this not uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting wrenches  
> dumped over a while back and of course ended up in the bilge in salt  
> water.  No more ratcheting happening there. 
> As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time  
> ago as a penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but  
> found that the two are not miscible and phase separate almost  
> immediately. Is that expected and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave 
>> 
> 
> Aries 
> 1990 C&C 34+ 
> New London, CT 
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Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Heat will do the trick, too if you have the room to use a torch without heating 
other things that shouldn’t be heated. Even a hand help map gas torch can 
provide effective heat on a small stud and nut combination. If you can get it 
even a little bit red it will come right off. Don’t heat it with the wrench on 
it. You will ruin the temper on your wrench.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 10:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

 

I have no idea from a real world test how acetone and ATF work together as
a penetrating oil, but it does seem unlikely it works well. First off they
should not mix so they do not form a homogeneous solution. I would guess
that 100% acetone would work well to penetrate but it is not very slippery.
Even most hydraulic fluids are not naturally slippery, they require modifiers.
Power steering fluid and ATF are closely related, but likely have differences
in things like anti-foam additives. Doubt it would be a critical difference for
a home brew penetrating oil.

Some of the normal vegetable oils are much more slippery, and do mix
with acetone.

https://www.engineeringforchange.org/news/2012/08/14/how_to_make_penetrating_oil.html

So 10% acetone and 90% vegetable oil may work as well as acetone - ATF.


The home brew formula may have started with 1,1,1-trichloroethane (a/k/a methyl 
chloroform)
and ATF - Ed's Red formula. Doubt it was worth the hazards involved.

http://fireironmfg.proboards.com/thread/87/penetrating-oil


The one thing that I have noticed is that when two properly sized and clean 
threads have
locked together nothing will penetrate to any degree that will help. That is 
why pipe thread
can handle pressure and not leak. Yes, it is tapered and has a specific thread 
but normal
non-tapered thread can seal as well.

Just speculating, but on an old rusty nut that was not torqued down hard the 
acetone
may do all the penetrating and loosen things up. The ATF may not penetrate at 
all but
helps when backing the nut off. So the fact that they do not mix is not a 
problem.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1



 


Message: 12 
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2015 00:13:08 -0300 
From: robert  
To: David Knecht , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation 
Message-ID: <55010444.5040...@eastlink.ca> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" 

David: 

I will be brave to face  a genetic engineer.I suspect the 50-50 
acetone ATF concoction has more to do with the 'acetone' than the 
'ATF'.  I said earlier last week that I thought it was Power Steering 
Fluid ...both are petroleum based..its the acetonemaybe the 
petroleum based additive gives us sense of comfortthink about 
itmost of us are more comfortable with a drop of 'oil' than a drop 
of 'acetone'. 

I think it is the 50 % acetone that makes this concoction 
effective.it can be mixed with any petroleum product 50%-50% and do 
its thing. 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax,N.S, 

On 2015-03-11 11:41 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: 
> I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list. 
>  This group has an amazittng array or talents and experiences, not 
> just in sailing but also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, 
> chemistry etc. etc. The only engineering I can provide advice on is 
> genetic engineering and I suspect there are not going to be a lot of 
> questions on that topic.  Sigh! 
> I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what gets 
> this one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well each 
> works in this not uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting wrenches 
> dumped over a while back and of course ended up in the bilge in salt 
> water.  No more ratcheting happening there. 
> As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time 
> ago as a penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but 
> found that the two are not miscible and phase separate almost 
> immediately. Is that expected and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave 
>> 
> 
> Aries 
> 1990 C&C 34+ 
> New London, CT 

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Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Regardless of the test results, Kroil worked well for me on a number of problem 
bolts on my Atomic Four, including exhaust manifold and head and in getting the 
engine coupling off the shaft.

And (for reference of our Canadian listserv members) was surprisingly easy to 
get close to home in Nanaimo: http://www.4gt.ca/kano-laboratories/ or in 
Ontario: 
http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/eppages/aerokroil.php?clickkey=2037461

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2015 11:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

This is from an almost 10-year old test, but it should be still true:

A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked 
at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a 
rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once 
treated. If the study was scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew 
works best! Here's the summary of the test results: 

Penetrating oil .. Average load 

None . 516 pounds 

WD-40  238 pounds 

PB Blaster ... 214 pounds 

Liquid Wrench  127 pounds

Kano Kroil ... 106 pounds 

ATF-Acetone mix.53 pounds 

The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 
– 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better 
than any commercial product in this one particular test. Note also that "Liquid 
Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Marek ___

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Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

The AC and DC should be on completely separate panels and the AC panel and 
wiring should have an enclosure to prevent inadvertent contact (per ABYC).  You 
can always add a short length to the wire (on the DC side) so that you can 
reach a terminal.  I am not endorsing what a PO may have done, but I am in the 
process of straightening out all my wiring behind the panels and organizing 
them so that future repairs and additions are simpler to make.  I have 26 DC 
circuits on my hinged electrical panel with a few circuit breakers handling 
multiple equipment (mostly cabin lights that are ganged together).

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame___

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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

That is apparently what someone did in the past. They separated the AC and DC 
panels, updated them and enclosed them with boxes. The problem is they placed 
the ground post for the DC circuit on the back side of the panel - almost in 
the middle. Then they sized the wiring to fit. So, my 20+ circuits are OK on 
the positive because they run to the breakers, but the black wires all 
terminate into a single (central) post. There's little room for a bus bar, and 
if there were, the wiring is not long enough to reach it. My option is to 
splice a bit of wire onto just about all the lines to reach a bus bar. I think 
I'd rather have the single post than a bunch of splices.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 12:12 PM
  Subject: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel


  The AC and DC should be on completely separate panels and the AC panel and 
wiring should have an enclosure to prevent inadvertent contact (per ABYC).  You 
can always add a short length to the wire (on the DC side) so that you can 
reach a terminal.  I am not endorsing what a PO may have done, but I am in the 
process of straightening out all my wiring behind the panels and organizing 
them so that future repairs and additions are simpler to make.  I have 26 DC 
circuits on my hinged electrical panel with a few circuit breakers handling 
multiple equipment (mostly cabin lights that are ganged together).

  Bob Boyer
  S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
  1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
  email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
  blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com


  "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame


--


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Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

[Federal Register Volume 80, Number 45 (Monday, March 9, 2015)]
[Rules and Regulations]
[Pages 12338-12341]
From the Federal Register Online via the Government Printing Office 
[www.gpo.gov]
[FR Doc No: 2015-05475]


---

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY

Coast Guard

33 CFR Part 165

[Docket Number USCG-2014-0292]
RIN 1625-AA00


Safety Zone for Ice Conditions; Chesapeake and Delaware Canal,
Upper Chesapeake Bay, and Tributaries, MD

AGENCY: Coast Guard, DHS.

ACTION: Temporary rule.

---

SUMMARY: The Coast Guard is establishing a temporary safety zone in all
navigable waters within the northern portion of the Chesapeake Bay and
its tributaries, including the western portion of the Chesapeake and
Delaware Canal, located between the Delaware/Maryland Boundary Line
across the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal east of Chesapeake City, MD,
and a line drawn across the Chesapeake Bay at the William P. Lane, Jr.
(US-50/301) Memorial Bridges, located between Sandy Point and Kent
Island, MD. The temporary safety zone restricts vessels from transiting
the zone during the effective period, unless authorized by the Captain
of the Port Baltimore or his designated representative. This safety
zone is necessary to protect mariners from the hazards associated with
ice in the navigable waterways.

DATES: This rule is effective without actual notice from March 9, 2015
until April 15, 2015. For the purposes of enforcement, actual notice
will be used from the date the rule was signed, February 17, 2015 until
March 9, 2015.

ADDRESSES: Documents mentioned in this preamble are part of Docket
Number USCG-2014-0292. To view documents mentioned in this preamble as
being available in the docket, go to http://www.regulations.gov, type
the docket number in the ``SEARCH'' box and click ``SEARCH.'' Click on
``Open Docket Folder'' on the line associated with this rulemaking. You
may also visit the Docket Management Facility in Room W12-140 on the
ground floor of the Department of Transportation West Building, 1200
New Jersey Avenue SE., Washington, DC 20590, between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m.,
Monday through Friday, except Federal holidays.

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT: If you have questions on this rule,
call or email Mr. Ronald L. Houck, Sector Baltimore Waterways
Management Division, U.S. Coast Guard; telephone 410-576-2674, email
ronald.l.ho...@uscg.mil. If you have questions 
on viewing or submitting
material to the docket, call Cheryl Collins, Program Manager, Docket
Operations, telephone (202) 366-9826.

___

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Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Glad I am south of the Bridge!  Until April 15?  Are they kidding?

Looks like South River thawed.  Waiting for my creek.  Hoping to get out
Sunday!

Joel

On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 12:59 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  [Federal Register Volume 80, Number 45 (Monday, March 9, 2015)]
>
> [Rules and Regulations]
>
> [Pages 12338-12341]
>
> From the Federal Register Online via the Government Printing Office [
> www.gpo.gov]
>
> [FR Doc No: 2015-05475]
>
>
>
>
>
> ---
>
>
>
> DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY
>
>
>
> Coast Guard
>
>
>
> 33 CFR Part 165
>
>
>
> [Docket Number USCG-2014-0292]
>
> RIN 1625-AA00
>
>
>
>
>
> Safety Zone for Ice Conditions; Chesapeake and Delaware Canal,
>
> Upper Chesapeake Bay, and Tributaries, MD
>
>
>
> AGENCY: Coast Guard, DHS.
>
>
>
> ACTION: Temporary rule.
>
>
>
> ---
>
>
>
> SUMMARY: The Coast Guard is establishing a temporary safety zone in all
>
> navigable waters within the northern portion of the Chesapeake Bay and
>
> its tributaries, including the western portion of the Chesapeake and
>
> Delaware Canal, located between the Delaware/Maryland Boundary Line
>
> across the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal east of Chesapeake City, MD,
>
> and a line drawn across the Chesapeake Bay at the William P. Lane, Jr.
>
> (US-50/301) Memorial Bridges, located between Sandy Point and Kent
>
> Island, MD. The temporary safety zone restricts vessels from transiting
>
> the zone during the effective period, unless authorized by the Captain
>
> of the Port Baltimore or his designated representative. This safety
>
> zone is necessary to protect mariners from the hazards associated with
>
> ice in the navigable waterways.
>
>
>
> DATES: This rule is effective without actual notice from March 9, 2015
>
> until April 15, 2015. For the purposes of enforcement, actual notice
>
> will be used from the date the rule was signed, February 17, 2015 until
>
> March 9, 2015.
>
>
>
> ADDRESSES: Documents mentioned in this preamble are part of Docket
>
> Number USCG-2014-0292. To view documents mentioned in this preamble as
>
> being available in the docket, go to http://www.regulations.gov, type
>
> the docket number in the ``SEARCH'' box and click ``SEARCH.'' Click on
>
> ``Open Docket Folder'' on the line associated with this rulemaking. You
>
> may also visit the Docket Management Facility in Room W12-140 on the
>
> ground floor of the Department of Transportation West Building, 1200
>
> New Jersey Avenue SE., Washington, DC 20590, between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m.,
>
> Monday through Friday, except Federal holidays.
>
>
>
> FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT: If you have questions on this rule,
>
> call or email Mr. Ronald L. Houck, Sector Baltimore Waterways
>
> Management Division, U.S. Coast Guard; telephone 410-576-2674, email
>
> ronald.l.ho...@uscg.mil. If you have questions on viewing or submitting
>
> material to the docket, call Cheryl Collins, Program Manager, Docket
>
> Operations, telephone (202) 366-9826.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

While not ideal you can have a combined AC/DC panel and many manufacturers 
(e.g. Blue Seas) make them  as long as you (as Bob mentioned) you use a 
rear cover on the AC portion (again as an example, Blue Seas makes these for 
their AC panels). 

Back covers are not available for all the AC panels, such as the Blue Seas 8077 
30 amp main AC breaker I have. In my case it is was mounted on the bulkhead, 
not in an electrical panel by the PO. The location does meet the ABYC 10-foot 
maximum cable distance between shore power inlet and this main circuit breaker 
switch. What I did was get a Scepter PVC electrical junction box from Home 
Depot. The surface mounted type with the blank screwdown faceplates (not the 
stud wall type) have tabs on the rear face. I used my dremel to cut out the 
back of the box so it fits over the rear of the switch and used cable glands 
(again from Home Depot) to bring cable in and out of the box. Hopefully this 
protects the switch a bit from fuel vapours as well since this switch isn’t 
ignition protected and my boat is an Atomic Four.  The PVC boxes are even 
marked ‘marine’. I’ve used the same boxes for my AC outlets (GFCI protected of 
course).  I’ve also seen panel installations where rear cover boxes for AC 
portions have been made from plexi sheet.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 9:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

The AC and DC should be on completely separate panels and the AC panel and 
wiring should have an enclosure to prevent inadvertent contact (per ABYC).  You 
can always add a short length to the wire (on the DC side) so that you can 
reach a terminal.  I am not endorsing what a PO may have done, but I am in the 
process of straightening out all my wiring behind the panels and organizing 
them so that future repairs and additions are simpler to make.  I have 26 DC 
circuits on my hinged electrical panel with a few circuit breakers handling 
multiple equipment (mostly cabin lights that are ganged together).

Bob Boyer 
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com


"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame



___

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___

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Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Me too, but there is the little matter of being on the hard.

Gary

  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
  To: Della Barba, Joe ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 1:02 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend


  Glad I am south of the Bridge!  Until April 15?  Are they kidding?


  Looks like South River thawed.  Waiting for my creek.  Hoping to get out 
Sunday!


  Joel


  On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 12:59 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

[Federal Register Volume 80, Number 45 (Monday, March 9, 2015)]

[Rules and Regulations]

[Pages 12338-12341]

From the Federal Register Online via the Government Printing Office 
[www.gpo.gov]

[FR Doc No: 2015-05475]





---



DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY



Coast Guard



33 CFR Part 165



[Docket Number USCG-2014-0292]

RIN 1625-AA00





Safety Zone for Ice Conditions; Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, 

Upper Chesapeake Bay, and Tributaries, MD



AGENCY: Coast Guard, DHS.



ACTION: Temporary rule.



---



SUMMARY: The Coast Guard is establishing a temporary safety zone in all 

navigable waters within the northern portion of the Chesapeake Bay and 

its tributaries, including the western portion of the Chesapeake and 

Delaware Canal, located between the Delaware/Maryland Boundary Line 

across the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal east of Chesapeake City, MD, 

and a line drawn across the Chesapeake Bay at the William P. Lane, Jr. 

(US-50/301) Memorial Bridges, located between Sandy Point and Kent 

Island, MD. The temporary safety zone restricts vessels from transiting 

the zone during the effective period, unless authorized by the Captain 

of the Port Baltimore or his designated representative. This safety 

zone is necessary to protect mariners from the hazards associated with 

ice in the navigable waterways.



DATES: This rule is effective without actual notice from March 9, 2015 

until April 15, 2015. For the purposes of enforcement, actual notice 

will be used from the date the rule was signed, February 17, 2015 until 

March 9, 2015.



ADDRESSES: Documents mentioned in this preamble are part of Docket 

Number USCG-2014-0292. To view documents mentioned in this preamble as 

being available in the docket, go to http://www.regulations.gov, type 

the docket number in the ``SEARCH'' box and click ``SEARCH.'' Click on 

``Open Docket Folder'' on the line associated with this rulemaking. You 

may also visit the Docket Management Facility in Room W12-140 on the 

ground floor of the Department of Transportation West Building, 1200 

New Jersey Avenue SE., Washington, DC 20590, between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m., 

Monday through Friday, except Federal holidays.



FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT: If you have questions on this rule, 

call or email Mr. Ronald L. Houck, Sector Baltimore Waterways 

Management Division, U.S. Coast Guard; telephone 410-576-2674, email 

ronald.l.ho...@uscg.mil. If you have questions on viewing or submitting 

material to the docket, call Cheryl Collins, Program Manager, Docket 

Operations, telephone (202) 366-9826.




___

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  -- 

  Joel 
  301 541 8551


--


  ___

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Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Wow, it sounds like you’re on Lake Superior…   :^)

http://coastwatch.glerl.noaa.gov/modis/modis.php?region=s&page=1&template=sub&image=t1.15070.1726.LakeSuperior.143.250m.jpg

You guys there on the Bay can now be honorary members of the Great White North 
sailing club.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 12, 2015, at 11:59 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> [Federal Register Volume 80, Number 45 (Monday, March 9, 2015)]
> [Rules and Regulations]
> [Pages 12338-12341]
> From the Federal Register Online via the Government Printing Office 
> [www.gpo.gov]
> [FR Doc No: 2015-05475]
>  
>  
> ---
>  
> DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY
>  
> Coast Guard
>  
> 33 CFR Part 165
>  
> [Docket Number USCG-2014-0292]
> RIN 1625-AA00
>  
>  
> Safety Zone for Ice Conditions; Chesapeake and Delaware Canal,
> Upper Chesapeake Bay, and Tributaries, MD
>  
> AGENCY: Coast Guard, DHS.
>  
> ACTION: Temporary rule.
>  
> ---
>  
> SUMMARY: The Coast Guard is establishing a temporary safety zone in all
> navigable waters within the northern portion of the Chesapeake Bay and
> its tributaries, including the western portion of the Chesapeake and
> Delaware Canal, located between the Delaware/Maryland Boundary Line
> across the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal east of Chesapeake City, MD,
> and a line drawn across the Chesapeake Bay at the William P. Lane, Jr.
> (US-50/301) Memorial Bridges, located between Sandy Point and Kent
> Island, MD. The temporary safety zone restricts vessels from transiting
> the zone during the effective period, unless authorized by the Captain
> of the Port Baltimore or his designated representative. This safety
> zone is necessary to protect mariners from the hazards associated with
> ice in the navigable waterways.
>  
> DATES: This rule is effective without actual notice from March 9, 2015
> until April 15, 2015. For the purposes of enforcement, actual notice
> will be used from the date the rule was signed, February 17, 2015 until
> March 9, 2015.
>  
> ADDRESSES: Documents mentioned in this preamble are part of Docket
> Number USCG-2014-0292. To view documents mentioned in this preamble as
> being available in the docket, go to http://www.regulations.gov, type
> the docket number in the ``SEARCH'' box and click ``SEARCH.'' Click on
> ``Open Docket Folder'' on the line associated with this rulemaking. You
> may also visit the Docket Management Facility in Room W12-140 on the
> ground floor of the Department of Transportation West Building, 1200
> New Jersey Avenue SE., Washington, DC 20590, between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m.,
> Monday through Friday, except Federal holidays.
>  
> FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT: If you have questions on this rule,
> call or email Mr. Ronald L. Houck, Sector Baltimore Waterways
> Management Division, U.S. Coast Guard; telephone 410-576-2674, email
> ronald.l.ho...@uscg.mil. If you have questions on viewing or submitting
> material to the docket, call Cheryl Collins, Program Manager, Docket
> Operations, telephone (202) 366-9826.
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

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Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

We still have ice on the West River but its thawing!!!

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame___

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Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

[Kim Brown via CnC-List]

Sunny and mid-80's here. Only ice in gin and tonics.  Scrubbed the bottom
last weekend (year2, Slime only, Trinidad SR). Just threw a can of diesel
in. Will be sailing along the beach this weekend.  Wind SSE at 12.  
Kim Brown 
TrustMe!!! 35-3


___

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Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

“What’s that mountain goat doing up here?”
(IIRC credit to Gary Larson)

The sailing equivalent may be “is that seagull standing on something?”

Back in the 70’s I was helping deliver a C&C 39 the night before a local race.  
As we neared the Des Moines (south of Seattle) marina I went below to use the 
head.  The crew on deck decided to take a short cut to the marina entrance 
(alcohol may have been a factor).  As I was sitting on the head I heard a 
strange noise… sounds like sand… then we ran aground on the sand bar just north 
of the marina. Fortunately the tide was rising and we could motor off easily.  
The bottom of the keel was now nicely sanded.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 6:58 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

Yes – CFIT.
CFIT was reduced when the GPWS system was developed. This is basically a depth 
finder for airplanes with an alarm for rising terrain. It used radar instead of 
sound to measure height.  It worked great on gradually rising ground – a cliff 
not so much. Now we have TAWS which uses GPS and a terrain map. This can 
predict in advance what you might hit, which is much better. My S-H plotter I 
have got but not yet installed has a similar function to set an alarm if your 
course goes through shallow water. I haven’t yet tried that function. This is a 
sample of a modern GPS driven display:
https://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/sv-d1000_straight_on.jpg



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 9:31 AM
To: Ronald B. Frerker; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

Isn't the FAA phrase for that "controlled flight into terrain"?
Dennis C.

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 11:18 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Airplanes only get grounded on mountains though.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL



From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

That kind of mistake REALLY hurts in an airplane




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Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Advice please. I'm taklng Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back in June. 
I've got an 8 foot inflatable, a gps based plb (McMurdo FastFind 210), and a 
new VHF with an AIS receiver. The only offshore planned is from Cape May to 
Block Island. Everything else will be close to shore. Do I need to bother with 
a life raft and/or a real epirb?
Dan SheerPegathy LF 38 
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Re: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Dan,

I would. Better safe than sorry. You never know what the Atlantic will be like 
in June. 

And bring a shovel. There may still be snow in Boston come June. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On Mar 12, 2015, at 2:44 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Advice please. I'm taklng Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back in June. 
> I've got an 8 foot inflatable, a gps based plb (McMurdo FastFind 210), and a 
> new VHF with an AIS receiver. The only offshore planned is from Cape May to 
> Block Island. Everything else will be close to shore. Do I need to bother 
> with a life raft and/or a real epirb?
> 
> Dan Sheer
> Pegathy LF 38 
> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dan,

The inflatable is not safety equipment.  If you are going to wait for good
weather, I don't think must have a raft, but it is personal preference.
Vane Bros. in Baltimore will rent you one for $500.  I'd be inclined to
rent an EPIRB.  Boat US rents them, and Vane Bros. may as well.  Battery is
much more robust then a PLB.
Jacklines, inflatable PFDs with harnesses are a must.  Take a look at the
saftey checklist here:

http://www.yachtscoring.com/event_documents/1121/A2N%20Cert%20of%20Compliance.pdf

Make your own determination of what level of gear you need.

Might see you out there during/after the Annapolis/Newport race!

Joel

On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 2:44 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Advice please. I'm taklng Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back in
> June. I've got an 8 foot inflatable, a gps based plb (McMurdo FastFind
> 210), and a new VHF with an AIS receiver. The only offshore planned is from
> Cape May to Block Island. Everything else will be close to shore. Do I need
> to bother with a life raft and/or a real epirb?
>
> Dan Sheer
> Pegathy LF 38
> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

An EPIRB is nice, but a PLB is certainly good enough to get help.
As for the raft – if it were a race you would need one. The first time I did 
that route our “raft” was a Dyer dinghy on the cabin top.  This was in 1976 
when safety was not really a thing like it is now. We would have been totally 
f’d if the boat had sunk in anything but flat calm.
I would think through the following:

1.   Fire

2.   Extreme weather

3.   Getting run over

4.   Structural failure/massive leak



Think about how well the dinghy would do for these problems. I think #2 is not 
real likely, but 1 and 3 would not be good unless the dinghy was ready to go.



Joe Della Barba

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Sheer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 2:44 PM
To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners
Subject: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

Advice please. I'm taklng Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back in June. 
I've got an 8 foot inflatable, a gps based plb (McMurdo FastFind 210), and a 
new VHF with an AIS receiver. The only offshore planned is from Cape May to 
Block Island. Everything else will be close to shore. Do I need to bother with 
a life raft and/or a real epirb?

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF 38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Re: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I would say a raft is an option if you have the dinghy. I would have an EPIRB. 
In that area rescue is going to be pretty quick if you need it. I would also 
have a waterproof handheld VHF handy so you can direct the search.
The best safety equipment you can get is the patience to await a good forecast. 
The worst thing is to have ANY kind of schedule.
Personally, I almost always got up the beach along the NJ coast, through NYC 
and then down Long Island sound. It's a nice ride, gives you lots of options if 
the weather goes sour, avoids drunk fishermen at night in the shipping lanes, 
and is only a few hours more distance.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Mar 12, 2015, at 15:53, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dan,
> 
> The inflatable is not safety equipment.  If you are going to wait for good 
> weather, I don't think must have a raft, but it is personal preference.  Vane 
> Bros. in Baltimore will rent you one for $500.  I'd be inclined to rent an 
> EPIRB.  Boat US rents them, and Vane Bros. may as well.  Battery is much more 
> robust then a PLB.
> Jacklines, inflatable PFDs with harnesses are a must.  Take a look at the 
> saftey checklist here:
> 
> http://www.yachtscoring.com/event_documents/1121/A2N%20Cert%20of%20Compliance.pdf
> 
> Make your own determination of what level of gear you need.
> 
> Might see you out there during/after the Annapolis/Newport race!
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 2:44 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Advice please. I'm taklng Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back in June. 
>> I've got an 8 foot inflatable, a gps based plb (McMurdo FastFind 210), and a 
>> new VHF with an AIS receiver. The only offshore planned is from Cape May to 
>> Block Island. Everything else will be close to shore. Do I need to bother 
>> with a life raft and/or a real epirb?
>> 
>> Dan Sheer
>> Pegathy LF 38 
>> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Personally, I would not consider a raft for that trip - if you are able to
plan based on weather rather than a fixed schedule, know and have
maintained your boat well and the dinghy is inflated, not rolled up in a
locker somewhere.  A stop in NYC would mean coastal sailing all the way.

+1 on jacklines, harnesses and life jackets.  You may also want to check
sleeping arrangements (lee cloths) if you don't sail overnight often and
extra diesel in case of no wind.  I made that trip a few years back (not my
boat) and we entered Great Salt Pond with the dinghy strapped to the
quarter as a tug...

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 3:00 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  An EPIRB is nice, but a PLB is certainly good enough to get help.
>
> As for the raft – if it were a race you would need one. The first time I
> did that route our “raft” was a Dyer dinghy on the cabin top.  This was in
> 1976 when safety was not really a thing like it is now. We would have been
> totally f’d if the boat had sunk in anything but flat calm.
>
> I would think through the following:
>
> 1.   Fire
>
> 2.   Extreme weather
>
> 3.   Getting run over
>
> 4.   Structural failure/massive leak
>
>
>
> Think about how well the dinghy would do for these problems. I think #2 is
> not real likely, but 1 and 3 would not be good unless the dinghy was ready
> to go.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Daniel
> Sheer via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 12, 2015 2:44 PM
> *To:* Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners
> *Subject:* Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston
>
>
>
> Advice please. I'm taklng Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back in
> June. I've got an 8 foot inflatable, a gps based plb (McMurdo FastFind
> 210), and a new VHF with an AIS receiver. The only offshore planned is from
> Cape May to Block Island. Everything else will be close to shore. Do I need
> to bother with a life raft and/or a real epirb?
>
>
>
> Dan Sheer
>
> Pegathy LF 38
>
> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

The Annapolis forecast for Sunday is mid 0s and sunny, winds 13 knots, but
it will feel a lot colder than 50 with water in the mid-30s!

Joel

On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 3:14 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Since the wind is turning to rubbing it in.. My sailing club is having the
> annual chili cook-off on Sat, we're spending the nite @ the boat then we be
> racin' on Sunday, partly sunny, temps in the mid 60's,  winds in the teens
> :-)
>
> Hang in there my Northern brethren ..
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
> Subject: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>
> Sunny and mid-80's here. Only ice in gin and tonics.  Scrubbed the bottom
> last weekend (year2, Slime only, Trinidad SR). Just threw a can of diesel
> in. Will be sailing along the beach this weekend.  Wind SSE at 12.
> Kim Brown
> TrustMe!!! 35-3
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Since the wind is turning to rubbing it in.. My sailing club is having the
annual chili cook-off on Sat, we're spending the nite @ the boat then we be
racin' on Sunday, partly sunny, temps in the mid 60's,  winds in the
teens :-)

Hang in there my Northern brethren ..

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"


Sunny and mid-80's here. Only ice in gin and tonics.  Scrubbed the bottom
last weekend (year2, Slime only, Trinidad SR). Just threw a can of diesel
in. Will be sailing along the beach this weekend.  Wind SSE at 12.
Kim Brown
TrustMe!!! 35-3

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Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Mid 0s?
That sounds like a few days ago! More like 55 for the weekend.
Joe

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 3:35 PM
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kim Brown
Subject: Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

The Annapolis forecast for Sunday is mid 0s and sunny, winds 13 knots, but it 
will feel a lot colder than 50 with water in the mid-30s!

Joel

On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 3:14 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Since the wind is turning to rubbing it in.. My sailing club is having the 
annual chili cook-off on Sat, we're spending the nite @ the boat then we be 
racin' on Sunday, partly sunny, temps in the mid 60's,  winds in the teens :-)

Hang in there my Northern brethren ..

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"


Sunny and mid-80's here. Only ice in gin and tonics.  Scrubbed the bottom
last weekend (year2, Slime only, Trinidad SR). Just threw a can of diesel
in. Will be sailing along the beach this weekend.  Wind SSE at 12.
Kim Brown
TrustMe!!! 35-3


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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I asked a friend who has done the trip a number of times and he agrees with 
Tim. If your inflatable is on deck or davits and ready to go - equipped with a 
ditch bag and radio - plus your personal locator - and a good radio with a high 
antenna you should be OK. I would assume you have a good way to launch it. And 
NO SCHEDULE! Have wiggle room so you don't find yourselves out there like the 
two idiots who had to be rescued a couple of weeks ago when the weather 
clobbered them.

All the safety stuff - jack lines, harnesses etc. is necessary... You will be 
out there at night in traffic! When we did the NY to Chesapeake trip on his 
boat we didn't worry about fuel (motorsailer with two huge tanks) but you 
should have enough to last the longest leg you might have to motor plus a good 
reserve - we motorsailed almost all the way from Staten Island to Cape May.

All of this assumes you have a C&C which is in good repair.

Gary


  - Original Message - 
  From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
  To: Della Barba, Joe ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 3:17 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston


  Personally, I would not consider a raft for that trip - if you are able to 
plan based on weather rather than a fixed schedule, know and have maintained 
your boat well and the dinghy is inflated, not rolled up in a locker somewhere. 
 A stop in NYC would mean coastal sailing all the way.


  +1 on jacklines, harnesses and life jackets.  You may also want to check 
sleeping arrangements (lee cloths) if you don't sail overnight often and extra 
diesel in case of no wind.  I made that trip a few years back (not my boat) and 
we entered Great Salt Pond with the dinghy strapped to the quarter as a tug...


  Tim
  Mojito
  C&C 35-3
  Branford, CT


  On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 3:00 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

An EPIRB is nice, but a PLB is certainly good enough to get help.

As for the raft – if it were a race you would need one. The first time I 
did that route our “raft” was a Dyer dinghy on the cabin top.  This was in 1976 
when safety was not really a thing like it is now. We would have been totally 
f’d if the boat had sunk in anything but flat calm.

I would think through the following:

1.   Fire

2.   Extreme weather

3.   Getting run over

4.   Structural failure/massive leak



Think about how well the dinghy would do for these problems. I think #2 is 
not real likely, but 1 and 3 would not be good unless the dinghy was ready to 
go.



Joe Della Barba

Coquina



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daniel 
Sheer via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 2:44 PM
To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners
Subject: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston



Advice please. I'm taklng Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back in 
June. I've got an 8 foot inflatable, a gps based plb (McMurdo FastFind 210), 
and a new VHF with an AIS receiver. The only offshore planned is from Cape May 
to Block Island. Everything else will be close to shore. Do I need to bother 
with a life raft and/or a real epirb?



Dan Sheer

Pegathy LF 38 

Rock Creek off the Patapsco




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Stus-List How to run jacklines on an LF38.

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I need 'em for the NE voyage. The mast is 16+ ft back from the bow. Theres a 
good, sturdy eye near the bow. I can run them to the cabintop handrails at the 
cockpit, but that seems strange. Suggestions, please.
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Re: Stus-List How to run jacklines on an LF38.

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Daniel,

When I run with jack lines, they go inboard from the bow cleat to the stern 
cleat on both sides. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On Mar 12, 2015, at 4:00 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I need 'em for the NE voyage. The mast is 16+ ft back from the bow. Theres a 
> good, sturdy eye near the bow. I can run them to the cabintop handrails at 
> the cockpit, but that seems strange. Suggestions, please.
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List How to run jacklines on an LF38.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Daniel — best practice would suggest using a padeye on each side deck, about 
six feet forward of the transom. That way you won’t be dragged six feet aft of 
the boat if you go over the side while tethered.  You should also have at least 
a few padeyes installed in the cockpit well; at least one reachable from the 
companionway.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 12, 2015, at 3:00 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I need 'em for the NE voyage. The mast is 16+ ft back from the bow. Theres a 
> good, sturdy eye near the bow. I can run them to the cabintop handrails at 
> the cockpit, but that seems strange. Suggestions, please.
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Re: Stus-List How to run jacklines on an LF38.

[David via CnC-List]

Bow cleats to toerail approximately 6' short of  transom...keeps the person who 
falls in next to the boat in lieu of behind the boat.   Easier to retrieve 
and/or hear/see for recue.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2015 16:02:52 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How to run jacklines on an LF38.
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Daniel,
When I run with jack lines, they go inboard from the bow cleat to the stern 
cleat on both sides. 

All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




On Mar 12, 2015, at 4:00 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List  
wrote:I need 'em for the NE voyage. The mast is 16+ ft back from the bow. 
Theres a good, sturdy eye near the bow. I can run them to the cabintop 
handrails at the cockpit, but that seems strange. Suggestions, please.
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Re: Stus-List How to run jacklines on an LF38.

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I run them from the eye for the spinnaker pole to the cleats on the cabin
top near the companionway.  They eye is close enough that crew can get to
the bow without going overboard.
In the cockpit I have 6 pad-eyes - 2 below the companionway, 2 on each side
of the cockpit just above the cockpit sole and one attached to a propane
locker.
Offshore at night or when reefed I follow the ISAF rule -clip in and stay
onboard.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 4:02 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Daniel,
>
> When I run with jack lines, they go inboard from the bow cleat to the
> stern cleat on both sides.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 12, 2015, at 4:00 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I need 'em for the NE voyage. The mast is 16+ ft back from the bow. Theres
> a good, sturdy eye near the bow. I can run them to the cabintop handrails
> at the cockpit, but that seems strange. Suggestions, please.
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Safety is your call, Captain. I personally enjoy the comfort of having a real 
life raft on board no matter how close to shore I am and an EPIRB is never a 
bad thing if you find yourself in it or in your inflatable after having the 
boat knocked out from under you. One thing to consider is the water temps up 
here in June are pretty cold. Commercial guys are required to have survival 
suits even in the summer. An unplanned swim that time of year can be pretty 
dangerous, even a mile from shore.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Sheer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 2:44 PM
To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners
Subject: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

 

Advice please. I'm taklng Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back in June. 
I've got an 8 foot inflatable, a gps based plb (McMurdo FastFind 210), and a 
new VHF with an AIS receiver. The only offshore planned is from Cape May to 
Block Island. Everything else will be close to shore. Do I need to bother with 
a life raft and/or a real epirb?

 

Dan Sheer

Pegathy LF 38 

Rock Creek off the Patapsco

 

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Stus-List jacklines for an LF 38

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Many thanks to all. Do you guys run line or strap, and what size?
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Stus-List Genetic Engineering

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Like maybe an enhanced foredeck cow?

"Hello Dr Moreau."

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: March-11-15 23:45
To: David Knecht; CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

 

h...

Genetic engineering

The possibilities...the possibilities...



David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2015 22:41:58 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list.  This
group has an amazing array or talents and experiences, not just in sailing
but also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, chemistry etc. etc. The only
engineering I can provide advice on is genetic engineering and I suspect
there are not going to be a lot of questions on that topic.  Sigh!  

I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what gets this
one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well each works in this
not uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting wrenches dumped over a while
back and of course ended up in the bilge in salt water.  No more ratcheting
happening there.  

As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time ago as
a penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but found that the
two are not miscible and phase separate almost immediately. Is that expected
and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave

 

 

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 


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  _  

No virus found in this message.
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Re: Stus-List jacklines for an LF 38

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I am sure others will way in, but nylon webbing 6000# breaking strength is
recommended by most racing bodies. Also, the strength will diminish in
proportion to uv exposure, so we stow them when not on the boat. I run them
to bow and stern cleats as others have mentioned since lack of backed pad
eyes capable of resisting a worst case scenario.

We use these 2x retractable tethers which are current with latest safety
best practices:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63677

KD

On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 1:47 PM Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Many thanks to all. Do you guys run line or strap, and what size?
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Genetic Engineering

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Winch grinding, mast climbing, bottom cleaning, anchor hauling …. Enhanced 
Foredeck Cow?  

Dave

On Mar 12, 2015, at 4:54 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Like maybe an enhanced foredeck cow?
> “Hello Dr Moreau.”
>  
> Rick Taillieu
> Nemesis
> '75 C&C 25  #371
> Shearwater Yacht Club
> Halifax, NS.
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: March-11-15 23:45
> To: David Knecht; CNC CNC
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
>  
> h...
> 
> Genetic engineering
> 
> The possibilities...the possibilities...
> 
> 
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2015 22:41:58 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list.  This 
> group has an amazing array or talents and experiences, not just in sailing 
> but also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, chemistry etc. etc. The only 
> engineering I can provide advice on is genetic engineering and I suspect 
> there are not going to be a lot of questions on that topic.  Sigh!  
> I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what gets this 
> one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well each works in this 
> not uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting wrenches dumped over a while 
> back and of course ended up in the bilge in salt water.  No more ratcheting 
> happening there.  
> As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time ago as a 
> penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but found that the 
> two are not miscible and phase separate almost immediately. Is that expected 
> and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave
>  
>  
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> 
> ___ Email address: 
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> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: 
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> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2015.0.5646 / Virus Database: 4306/9270 - Release Date: 03/10/15
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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> 

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Genetic Engineering

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Sounds perfect to me. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
  To: Rick Taillieu ; CnC CnC discussion list 
  Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 17:06
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Genetic Engineering


  Winch grinding, mast climbing, bottom cleaning, anchor hauling …. Enhanced 
Foredeck Cow?  


  Dave



  On Mar 12, 2015, at 4:54 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Like maybe an enhanced foredeck cow?

“Hello Dr Moreau.”



Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
via CnC-List
Sent: March-11-15 23:45
To: David Knecht; CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation



h...

Genetic engineering

The possibilities...the possibilities...



David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)






Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2015 22:41:58 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list.  This 
group has an amazing array or talents and experiences, not just in sailing but 
also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, chemistry etc. etc. The only 
engineering I can provide advice on is genetic engineering and I suspect there 
are not going to be a lot of questions on that topic.  Sigh!  

I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what gets this 
one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well each works in this not 
uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting wrenches dumped over a while back and 
of course ended up in the bilge in salt water.  No more ratcheting happening 
there.  

As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time ago as 
a penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but found that the 
two are not miscible and phase separate almost immediately. Is that expected 
and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave





Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT







___ Email address: 
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-- go to the bottom of page at: 
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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5646 / Virus Database: 4306/9270 - Release Date: 03/10/15

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  Aries
  1990 C&C 34+
  New London, CT

   




--


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Re: Stus-List Genetic Engineering

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>... Enhanced Foredeck Cow?

I have always wanted a prehensile tail for doing foredeck work.  More foredeck 
ape than cow but you have to start somewhere.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 2:07 PM
To: Rick Taillieu; CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Genetic Engineering

Winch grinding, mast climbing, bottom cleaning, anchor hauling  Enhanced 
Foredeck Cow?

Dave

On Mar 12, 2015, at 4:54 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Like maybe an enhanced foredeck cow?
"Hello Dr Moreau."

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: March-11-15 23:45
To: David Knecht; CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

h...

Genetic engineering

The possibilities...the possibilities...



David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2015 22:41:58 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list.  This group 
has an amazing array or talents and experiences, not just in sailing but also 
in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, chemistry etc. etc. The only engineering 
I can provide advice on is genetic engineering and I suspect there are not 
going to be a lot of questions on that topic.  Sigh!
I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what gets this one 
off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well each works in this not 
uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting wrenches dumped over a while back and 
of course ended up in the bilge in salt water.  No more ratcheting happening 
there.
As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time ago as a 
penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but found that the two 
are not miscible and phase separate almost immediately. Is that expected and if 
so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave


Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




___ Email address: 
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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5646 / Virus Database: 4306/9270 - Release Date: 03/10/15
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Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image002.png@01D05CD0.7515F2B0]

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Re: Stus-List Genetic Engineering

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

How hard is it to add jellyfish genes to people?
I have heard of glowing rabbits and glowing fish made this way. I was thinking 
glowing crew would be easy to keep track of at night.
Possible?
Easy to do with tools at hand or do I need to buy something?
I have a line on where to get jellyfish already...

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 5:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Genetic Engineering

Sounds perfect to me.

- Original Message -
From: David Knecht via CnC-List
To: Rick Taillieu ; CnC CnC discussion 
list
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 17:06
Subject: Re: Stus-List Genetic Engineering

Winch grinding, mast climbing, bottom cleaning, anchor hauling  Enhanced 
Foredeck Cow?

Dave

On Mar 12, 2015, at 4:54 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Like maybe an enhanced foredeck cow?
"Hello Dr Moreau."

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: March-11-15 23:45
To: David Knecht; CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
h...

Genetic engineering

The possibilities...the possibilities...



David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2015 22:41:58 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list.  This group 
has an amazing array or talents and experiences, not just in sailing but also 
in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, chemistry etc. etc. The only engineering 
I can provide advice on is genetic engineering and I suspect there are not 
going to be a lot of questions on that topic.  Sigh!
I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what gets this one 
off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well each works in this not 
uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting wrenches dumped over a while back and 
of course ended up in the bilge in salt water.  No more ratcheting happening 
there.
As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time ago as a 
penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but found that the two 
are not miscible and phase separate almost immediately. Is that expected and if 
so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave


Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5646 / Virus Database: 4306/9270 - Release Date: 03/10/15
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Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:4073BE72-4704-4EA7-8EBA-B73B833F502B]


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Re: Stus-List Genetic Engineering

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I had a buddy who crewed for me off-and-on who was a little fireplug of guy 
(you’d want him watching your back in bar-room fight) who used climb hand over 
hand up the mast (Cal 25, short mast…) while singing “I’m Simian the Sailor 
Man” to the tune of the old Popeye favorite…

No prehensile tail though.,..

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Mar 12, 2015, at 5:26 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> >… Enhanced Foredeck Cow? 
>  
> I have always wanted a prehensile tail for doing foredeck work.  More 
> foredeck ape than cow but you have to start somewhere.
>  
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 2:07 PM
> To: Rick Taillieu; CnC CnC discussion list
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Genetic Engineering
>  
> Winch grinding, mast climbing, bottom cleaning, anchor hauling …. Enhanced 
> Foredeck Cow?  
>  
> Dave
>  
> On Mar 12, 2015, at 4:54 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> 
> Like maybe an enhanced foredeck cow?
> “Hello Dr Moreau.”
>  
> Rick Taillieu
> Nemesis
> '75 C&C 25  #371
> Shearwater Yacht Club
> Halifax, NS.
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List
> Sent: March-11-15 23:45
> To: David Knecht; CNC CNC
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
>  
> h...
> 
> Genetic engineering
> 
> The possibilities...the possibilities...
> 
> 
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> 
> Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2015 22:41:58 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> 
> I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list.  This 
> group has an amazing array or talents and experiences, not just in sailing 
> but also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, chemistry etc. etc. The only 
> engineering I can provide advice on is genetic engineering and I suspect 
> there are not going to be a lot of questions on that topic.  Sigh!  
> I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what gets this 
> one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well each works in this 
> not uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting wrenches dumped over a while 
> back and of course ended up in the bilge in salt water.  No more ratcheting 
> happening there.  
> As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time ago as a 
> penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but found that the 
> two are not miscible and phase separate almost immediately. Is that expected 
> and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave
>  
>  
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> 
> ___ Email address: 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com  To change your list 
> preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: 
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 2015.0.5646 / Virus Database: 4306/9270 - Release Date: 03/10/15
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
>  
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Genetic Engineering

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I love it.  Human experimentation with no IRB forms to fill out.  Lets do the 
experiment.  Why don’t you try eating lots of jellyfish for a few weeks and 
tell us if you start glowing green?  If it works, we’ll write it up for Sail 
(or more likely the Journal of Irreproducible Results and put it up for an 
Ignoble awards).  Dave

On Mar 12, 2015, at 5:26 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> How hard is it to add jellyfish genes to people?
> I have heard of glowing rabbits and glowing fish made this way. I was 
> thinking glowing crew would be easy to keep track of at night.
> Possible?
> Easy to do with tools at hand or do I need to buy something?
> I have a line on where to get jellyfish already…
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve 
> Thomas via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 5:23 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Genetic Engineering
>  
> Sounds perfect to me.
>  
> - Original Message -
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List
> To: Rick Taillieu ; CnC CnC discussion list
> Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 17:06
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Genetic Engineering
>  
> Winch grinding, mast climbing, bottom cleaning, anchor hauling …. Enhanced 
> Foredeck Cow?  
>  
> Dave
>  
> On Mar 12, 2015, at 4:54 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Like maybe an enhanced foredeck cow?
> “Hello Dr Moreau.”
>  
> Rick Taillieu
> Nemesis
> '75 C&C 25  #371
> Shearwater Yacht Club
> Halifax, NS.
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: March-11-15 23:45
> To: David Knecht; CNC CNC
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
> h...
> 
> Genetic engineering
> 
> The possibilities...the possibilities...
> 
> 
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> 
> Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2015 22:41:58 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list.  This 
> group has an amazing array or talents and experiences, not just in sailing 
> but also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, chemistry etc. etc. The only 
> engineering I can provide advice on is genetic engineering and I suspect 
> there are not going to be a lot of questions on that topic.  Sigh!  
> I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what gets this 
> one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well each works in this 
> not uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting wrenches dumped over a while 
> back and of course ended up in the bilge in salt water.  No more ratcheting 
> happening there.  
> As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time ago as a 
> penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but found that the 
> two are not miscible and phase separate almost immediately. Is that expected 
> and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave
>  
>  
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> 
> ___ Email address: 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including 
> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: 
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> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2015.0.5646 / Virus Database: 4306/9270 - Release Date: 03/10/15
> ___
> 
> Email address:
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> of page at:
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> 
>  
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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> 

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

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Re: Stus-List jacklines for an LF 38

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

The Winchard LYF'SAFE JACKLINE kits are nice, if a bit pricey. The flat
grey webbing has a reflective strip woven in and the kit comes with a pair
of bulky S/S "buckle" of sorts with a glow in the dark cover that can be
positioned as a stopper to keep a crew member from getting too far aft.

Ken H.

On Thursday, 12 March 2015, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I am sure others will way in, but nylon webbing 6000# breaking strength
is recommended by most racing bodies. Also, the strength will diminish in
proportion to uv exposure, so we stow them when not on the boat. I run them
to bow and stern cleats as others have mentioned since lack of backed pad
eyes capable of resisting a worst case scenario.
>
> We use these 2x retractable tethers which are current with latest safety
best practices:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63677
> KD
> On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 1:47 PM Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Many thanks to all. Do you guys run line or strap, and what size?
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List jacklines for an LF 38

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Bought webbing from REI.

Joel

On Thursday, March 12, 2015, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Many thanks to all. Do you guys run line or strap, and what size?
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Joe Scott via CnC-List]

Thanks, I bought an Isotherm 2501 which also has a BD50 compressor.  I was 
planning 10AWG wiring and running back to the ground bus bar.  I will keep in 
mind what you experienced with the main panel if I have issues although the PO 
took a lot of stuff off of the main panel.  Do you think you lost voltage due 
to the age of the panel or too many other items on it.  The PO of my boat put a 
100 amp line to a blue sea fuse panel at the nav station for all the 
electronics on the boat.

Thanks

Joe
> On Mar 12, 2015, at 10:06 AM, Petar Horvatic  wrote:
> 
> Hi Joe,
> Not sure what compressor you’re using, but for me Danfoss BD50 control module 
> was cutting out due to significant voltage drop at the compressor.  Make sure 
> your fridge wires are good gauge.  I ended up running 2x10AWG.  Two 10AWG for 
> positive and two for return.  Any by return I mean not just to a nearest 
> ground.  Back to the battery or negative high power bus bar.  My main culprit 
> for voltage drop was the main panel switch I used to turn the fridge on/off. 
> After few months of headaches and troubleshooting,  I ended up re-purposing 
> the switch.  Instead of a panel switch, I just have AGC fuse which I install 
> in the spring and take out in the fall.  For me, there is no other way to 
> shut off the fridge.  The double 10AWG was added prior to finding that switch 
> was the main culprit.  I left it as it could only help.  
> Also, bus bars Dennis mentioned would help with voltage drops for all your 
> loads. 
>  
> Petar Horvatic
> Sundowner
> 76 C&C 38MkII
> Newport, RI
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 11:07 PM
> To: Joseph Scott; CnClist
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel
>  
> This would be a good time to install a ground bus bar or a Blue Sea PowerPost 
> Plus.
> 
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2300/Common_150A_BusBar_-_10_Gang_with_Cover 
> 
> 
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/PowerPost_Connectors/PowerPost_Plus 
> 
> Dennis C.
>  
>  
> On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 9:19 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Yep, that's exactly how my panel is and I did see those bolts. I guess I was 
> expecting a bar or something.  Thanks a lot. This is my first electrical 
> project.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> > On Mar 11, 2015, at 10:13 PM, Rick Brass  > > wrote:
> >
> > Remove the panel from its mounting slots (lift up, pull the bottom forward,
> > and then lower out of the top slot. That's the way mine is rigged. If
> > different from yours, just ignore this email.)
> >
> > On the starboard side of the wiring compartment about 4 or 5 inches from the
> > top you should see two "bolts" sticking out about an inch or two. One of
> > these is the ground and will have a bunch of black wires affixed to it. One
> > of the fatter black wires in the common ground for all the panel wiring down
> > to the battery wire connection on the engine block.
> >
> > The other "bolt" on my boat is the common positive from the battery 1-2-all
> > switch to the panel, and most of the fuses get power from this point.
> >
> >
> > Rick Brass
> > Imzadi  1976 C&C 38 mk 2
> > Hull # 049
> > Washington, NC
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> > ] On Behalf Of Joseph
> > Scott via CnC-List
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 9:47 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> > Subject: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel
> >
> > Hey All
> >
> > I am looking at installing a DC refrig system.  The old one I pulled out was
> > AC so I need  to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see it
> > a place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the negative
> > or anywhere that the negative comes into the panel.  Shouldn't it be there
> > somewhere?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Joe
> >
> > Sent from my
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> > of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> > 
> >
> 
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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> 
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Email address:
CnC

Stus-List TefGel - was 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

After all the resounding endorsements of TefGel, I’ve tried to find it in my 
are. And tried. And tried…. It just doesn’t seem to be available.

 

West Marine sells Anchor Dielectric Grease, and recommends that as an 
alternative.

 

A local marine electronics contractor whose expertise I trust recommends 
Gardner Bender Ox Guard anti oxidation compound as an alternative.

 

Before I order TefGel using Dennis’ link, can anyone comment on the differences 
between that and the suggested alternates, or the suitability of the 
alternatives?

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

  

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 9:29 AM
To: Robert Boyer; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

 

Also, coat all crimp connections and the connectors with TefGel prior to 
crimping and connecting.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546

Dennis C.

 

 

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Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I have 10 gauge wires to/from my BD50 compressor and use a circuit breaker for 
on/off with no problems.  I'm considering adding a second set of 10 gauge wires 
too to see how much more efficiency I get that way.  Of course I won't know 
until it warms up around here!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame___

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Re: Stus-List TefGel - was 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Jamestown Distributors,  and Teff Gel is what they use on planes.
 Bill Coleman 


 Original message 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  
Date: 03/12/2015  9:51 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: "'Dennis C.'" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List TefGel - was 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel 

After all the resounding endorsements of TefGel, I’ve tried to find it in my 
are. And tried. And tried…. It just doesn’t seem to be available.
 
West Marine sells Anchor Dielectric Grease, and recommends that as an 
alternative.
 
A local marine electronics contractor whose expertise I trust recommends 
Gardner Bender Ox Guard anti oxidation compound as an alternative.
 
Before I order TefGel using Dennis’ link, can anyone comment on the differences 
between that and the suggested alternates, or the suitability of the 
alternatives?
 
 
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
 
 
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 9:29 AM
To: Robert Boyer; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel
 
Also, coat all crimp connections and the connectors with TefGel prior to 
crimping and connecting.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546

Dennis C.
 
 ___

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Re: Stus-List How to run jacklines on an LF38.

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

For starters you need 40’ or 45’ flat nylon jacklines. It is best if you can 
find or make a set with Dynema line or steel wire inside the flat nylon. 

 

On my 38 the jacklines get rigged with the eyes attached to the two 10” cleats 
in the bow of the boat, then led on the deck inside of the shrouds, aft to the 
cockpit where they are secured to a pair of padeyes in the cockpit. The padeyes 
were left behind when I upgraded my traveler. 

 

My tethers are double ended, so crew on deck can pass inside the shrouds when 
going forward or “Hook on, hook off” to go around the outside of the shrouds. 
I’ve also been known to use the padeyes on the side of the mast for the 
reaching strut as a place to hook on when standing at the mast to reef or crank 
on the outhaul.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Sheer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 4:00 PM
To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners
Subject: Stus-List How to run jacklines on an LF38.

 

I need 'em for the NE voyage. The mast is 16+ ft back from the bow. Theres a 
good, sturdy eye near the bow. I can run them to the cabintop handrails at the 
cockpit, but that seems strange. Suggestions, please.

___

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Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

No sailing until April 15th? Damn!

 

Are we talking icebergs in the Susquehanna River? Do they expect some doofus to 
have his very own “Night to Remember”?

 

In the northern parts of NC the Coasties are making announcements on 22Alpha 
about transiting certain areas because the ice may have moved some of the 
NavAids, and asking mariners to report missing or miss located NavAids. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 1:00 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Subject: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

 

[Federal Register Volume 80, Number 45 (Monday, March 9, 2015)]

[Rules and Regulations]

[Pages 12338-12341]

>From the Federal Register Online via the Government Printing Office 
>[www.gpo.gov  ]

[FR Doc No: 2015-05475]

 

 

---

 

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY

 

Coast Guard

 

33 CFR Part 165

 

[Docket Number USCG-2014-0292]

RIN 1625-AA00

 

 

Safety Zone for Ice Conditions; Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, 

Upper Chesapeake Bay, and Tributaries, MD

 

AGENCY: Coast Guard, DHS.

 

ACTION: Temporary rule.

 

---

 

SUMMARY: The Coast Guard is establishing a temporary safety zone in all 

navigable waters within the northern portion of the Chesapeake Bay and 

its tributaries, including the western portion of the Chesapeake and 

Delaware Canal, located between the Delaware/Maryland Boundary Line 

across the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal east of Chesapeake City, MD, 

and a line drawn across the Chesapeake Bay at the William P. Lane, Jr. 

(US-50/301) Memorial Bridges, located between Sandy Point and Kent 

Island, MD. The temporary safety zone restricts vessels from transiting 

the zone during the effective period, unless authorized by the Captain 

of the Port Baltimore or his designated representative. This safety 

zone is necessary to protect mariners from the hazards associated with 

ice in the navigable waterways.

 

DATES: This rule is effective without actual notice from March 9, 2015 

until April 15, 2015. For the purposes of enforcement, actual notice 

will be used from the date the rule was signed, February 17, 2015 until 

March 9, 2015.

 

ADDRESSES: Documents mentioned in this preamble are part of Docket 

Number USCG-2014-0292. To view documents mentioned in this preamble as 

being available in the docket, go to http://www.regulations.gov, type 

the docket number in the ``SEARCH'' box and click ``SEARCH.'' Click on 

``Open Docket Folder'' on the line associated with this rulemaking. You 

may also visit the Docket Management Facility in Room W12-140 on the 

ground floor of the Department of Transportation West Building, 1200 

New Jersey Avenue SE., Washington, DC 20590, between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m., 

Monday through Friday, except Federal holidays.

 

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT: If you have questions on this rule, 

call or email Mr. Ronald L. Houck, Sector Baltimore Waterways 

Management Division, U.S. Coast Guard; telephone 410-576-2674, email 

ronald.l.ho...@uscg.mil  . If you have 
questions on viewing or submitting 

material to the docket, call Cheryl Collins, Program Manager, Docket 

Operations, telephone (202) 366-9826.

 

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Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Looks like the enforcement stopped March 9th anyway. No worries. 

- Original Message -

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List"  
To: "Della Barba, Joe" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 10:20:04 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend 



No sailing until April 15 th ? Damn! 



Are we talking icebergs in the Susquehanna River? Do they expect some doofus to 
have his very own “Night to Remember”? 



In the northern parts of NC the Coasties are making announcements on 22Alpha 
about transiting certain areas because the ice may have moved some of the 
NavAids, and asking mariners to report missing or miss located NavAids. 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 1:00 PM 
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Subject: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend 




[Federal Register Volume 80, Number 45 (Monday, March 9, 2015)] 

[Rules and Regulations] 

[Pages 12338-12341] 

>From the Federal Register Online via the Government Printing Office [ 
>www.gpo.gov ] 

[FR Doc No: 2015-05475] 





--- 



DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY 



Coast Guard 



33 CFR Part 165 



[Docket Number USCG-2014-0292] 

RIN 1625-AA00 





Safety Zone for Ice Conditions; Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, 

Upper Chesapeake Bay, and Tributaries, MD 



AGENCY: Coast Guard, DHS. 



ACTION: Temporary rule. 



--- 



SUMMARY: The Coast Guard is establishing a temporary safety zone in all 

navigable waters within the northern portion of the Chesapeake Bay and 

its tributaries, including the western portion of the Chesapeake and 

Delaware Canal, located between the Delaware/Maryland Boundary Line 

across the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal east of Chesapeake City, MD, 

and a line drawn across the Chesapeake Bay at the William P. Lane, Jr. 

(US-50/301) Memorial Bridges, located between Sandy Point and Kent 

Island, MD. The temporary safety zone restricts vessels from transiting 

the zone during the effective period, unless authorized by the Captain 

of the Port Baltimore or his designated representative. This safety 

zone is necessary to protect mariners from the hazards associated with 

ice in the navigable waterways. 



DATES: This rule is effective without actual notice from March 9, 2015 

until April 15, 2015. For the purposes of enforcement, actual notice 

will be used from the date the rule was signed, February 17, 2015 until 

March 9, 2015. 



ADDRESSES: Documents mentioned in this preamble are part of Docket 

Number USCG-2014-0292. To view documents mentioned in this preamble as 

being available in the docket, go to http://www.regulations.gov , type 

the docket number in the ``SEARCH'' box and click ``SEARCH.'' Click on 

``Open Docket Folder'' on the line associated with this rulemaking. You 

may also visit the Docket Management Facility in Room W12-140 on the 

ground floor of the Department of Transportation West Building, 1200 

New Jersey Avenue SE., Washington, DC 20590, between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m., 

Monday through Friday, except Federal holidays. 



FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT: If you have questions on this rule, 

call or email Mr. Ronald L. Houck, Sector Baltimore Waterways 

Management Division, U.S. Coast Guard; telephone 410-576-2674, email 

ronald.l.ho...@uscg.mil . If you have questions on viewing or submitting 

material to the docket, call Cheryl Collins, Program Manager, Docket 

Operations, telephone (202) 366-9826. 



___ 

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Re: Stus-List TefGel - was 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

OK, I'll try.  All three products are similar when used in electrical
connections.

First, TefGel and Gardner Bender Ox Guard anti oxidation compound work
similarly from a physical standpoint.  They both fill voids and are
displaced by crimping or contact leaving a thin layer on the parts.  The
difference is that TefGel is PTFE and is more geared towards corrosion
prevention.  The GB compound has zinc and graphite and is more geared to
preventing oxidation and promoting conductivity.

While it may seem that coating a connection with PTFE would reduce
conductivity, I've not seen it.  I've not observed any significant
resistance or voltage drop across any connector I've made using TefGel.  I
measured resistance under no-load condition. I also measured voltage drop
across the connector while under load.  It was a 3.5 gpm Shurflo freshwater
pump happily pumping full blast.

I used a Fluke 85 III multimeter which is a professional grade meter.

Ass I recall, dielectric grease is primarily silicone based.  You can buy
it at auto parts stores made by Permatex.  Physical action is that same.
Fills voids and prevents intrusions.  I've used it on electronics
connections before but dropped it in favor of TefGel.  I'll bet many a
shade tree mechanic uses it in automotive service.

The added advantage of TefGel is its anti-corrosion properties.  It's
lauded far and wide for use in preventing dissimilar metal corrosion.
Tapping a stainless fastener into an aluminum rig?  Coat it with TefGel!

I've been using it for nearly 15 years now.  My colleague here on "de
bayou" has been using it much longer.  Neither of us can remember a failure
on any electrical connection we've made using TefGel.  That's 25-30 years
of crimping!

Read TefGel's online reviews.  Many of them say it was recommended by a
marine industry person.

While I think you could use any of the three types of product, my money's
on TefGel.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 8:51 PM, Rick Brass  wrote:

> After all the resounding endorsements of TefGel, I’ve tried to find it in
> my are. And tried. And tried…. It just doesn’t seem to be available.
>
>
>
> West Marine sells Anchor Dielectric Grease, and recommends that as an
> alternative.
>
>
>
> A local marine electronics contractor whose expertise I trust recommends
> Gardner Bender Ox Guard anti oxidation compound as an alternative.
>
>
>
> Before I order TefGel using Dennis’ link, can anyone comment on the
> differences between that and the suggested alternates, or the suitability
> of the alternatives?
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 12, 2015 9:29 AM
> *To:* Robert Boyer; CnClist
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel
>
>
>
> Also, coat all crimp connections and the connectors with TefGel prior to
> crimping and connecting.
>
> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List TefGel - was 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

You might be ok using the dielectric grease on your electrical connections, but 
the TefGel is certainly much better for any SS to aluminium contacts (e.g. SS 
bolt into an aluminium spar). At $12 at Jamestown, it is a steal.

 

Marek

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: March-12-15 22:08
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List TefGel - was 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

 

 

 

Jamestown Distributors,  and Teff Gel is what they use on planes.

 Bill Coleman 



 Original message 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  
Date: 03/12/2015 9:51 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: "'Dennis C.'" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List TefGel - was 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel 

After all the resounding endorsements of TefGel, I’ve tried to find it in my 
are. And tried. And tried…. It just doesn’t seem to be available.

 

West Marine sells Anchor Dielectric Grease, and recommends that as an 
alternative.

 

A local marine electronics contractor whose expertise I trust recommends 
Gardner Bender Ox Guard anti oxidation compound as an alternative.

 

Before I order TefGel using Dennis’ link, can anyone comment on the differences 
between that and the suggested alternates, or the suitability of the 
alternatives?

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

  

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 9:29 AM
To: Robert Boyer; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel

 

Also, coat all crimp connections and the connectors with TefGel prior to 
crimping and connecting.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546

Dennis C.

 

 

___

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Re: Stus-List How to run jacklines on an LF38.

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Nylon is not the best choice for jacklines, you want something that doesn't
stretch and lose half its strength when wet. One taut centerline jackline,
if you  can rig it, the idea is to stay on the boat, not be cushioned in
your ride behind it.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 12 March 2015 at 19:10, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
wrote:

> For starters you need 40’ or 45’ flat nylon jacklines. It is best if you
> can find or make a set with Dynema line or steel wire inside the flat
> nylon.
>
>
>
> On my 38 the jacklines get rigged with the eyes attached to the two 10”
> cleats in the bow of the boat, then led on the deck inside of the shrouds,
> aft to the cockpit where they are secured to a pair of padeyes in the
> cockpit. The padeyes were left behind when I upgraded my traveler.
>
>
>
> My tethers are double ended, so crew on deck can pass inside the shrouds
> when going forward or “Hook on, hook off” to go around the outside of the
> shrouds. I’ve also been known to use the padeyes on the side of the mast
> for the reaching strut as a place to hook on when standing at the mast to
> reef or crank on the outhaul.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Daniel
> Sheer via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 12, 2015 4:00 PM
> *To:* Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners
> *Subject:* Stus-List How to run jacklines on an LF38.
>
>
>
> I need 'em for the NE voyage. The mast is 16+ ft back from the bow. Theres
> a good, sturdy eye near the bow. I can run them to the cabintop handrails
> at the cockpit, but that seems strange. Suggestions, please.
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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