Re: Stus-List A tribute to Doyle Sail Loft

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

Tequila makes my Keel fall off.

Tim
 Toronto
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 9:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A tribute to Doyle Sail Loft

Yes, I've had good experience with Doyle here on Long Island as well.

Just be warned - I hear Doyle sails will make your keel fall off,

Everyone's thinking it- I'm just saying...

John

On Aug 21, 2014, at 6:30 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I'm sure many of you know this but what a great company! I left a simple 
question about determining the fabric of my Doyle sails so I could figure out 
what to use to clean the mildew stains on their "info" email address. I heard 
back from Janet Doyle (my assumption is an owner or executive at least) who 
referred me to the guy that runs the sail loft (Bill) who called me and offered 
to have me bring my sails down so he could look at them and let me know what, 
if any options I had to clean them. These are old Kevlar racing sails that have 
probably begun delaminating but he said we may be able to get them looking a 
little better. Frankly the mildew stains are not that bad. I was just hoping 
for an easy solution to having at least clean sails.

I am impressed at the level of service they offer and it is obvious they know 
their stuff. It is also helpful that they are 30 minutes from my marina.

My 2 cents

Skip

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Re: Stus-List Engine stalling after shifting

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Dave, 
I had similar drama with my engine six years ago. It was made worse by a 
cantankerous starter. I once had to have guests steer while I jumped below and 
shorted the starter solenoid contacts with a big screw driver to start it. 
(docking was similar to Jack Lemon in The Wackiest Ship In The Army) I had the 
starter rebuilt. 

I was able to adjust my engine's idle speed by adjusting the throttle stop at 
the engine. I think it required two 9mm or 10mm wrenches. No problems since. 
When docking, I set the throttle and use the shifter to put it in and out of 
gear. I'm sure the idle is a little higher than spec, but now I feel less 
vibration and no stalling. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "David Knecht" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
 
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 3:54:45 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine stalling after shifting 

Dave, 

How low is the idle speed? 

Joel 


On Tue, Aug 12, 2014 at 3:49 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



The Universal M4-30 in my boat tends to stall frequently when shifting. This 
primarily happens when moving forward and shifting into reverse, which is of 
course not good for stress levels when one has to pull into a slip and you 
can’t count on slowing down. Maybe I could increase the RPM somewhat before 
shifting, but that seems bad for the transmission so I haven’t done it. Any 
ideas what this might indicate? Thanks- Dave 

Aries 
1990 C&C 34+ 
New London, CT 



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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Engine stalling after shifting

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Re: higher than spec rpm

Just be careful.  Shifting is "supposed" to be done at less than 1000rpm.

Josh
On Aug 22, 2014 7:58 AM, "Chuck S via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Dave,
> I had similar drama with my engine six years ago. It was made worse by a
> cantankerous starter.  I once had to have guests steer while I jumped below
> and shorted the starter solenoid contacts with a big screw driver to start
> it.   (docking was similar to Jack Lemon in The Wackiest Ship In The Army)
> I had the starter rebuilt.
>
> I was able to adjust my engine's idle speed by adjusting the throttle stop
> at the engine.  I think it required two 9mm or 10mm wrenches.  No problems
> since.  When docking, I set the throttle and use the shifter to put it in
> and out of gear.  I'm sure the idle is a little higher than spec, but now I
> feel less vibration and no stalling.
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> *To: *"David Knecht" , "CNC boat owners,
> cnc-list" 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, August 12, 2014 3:54:45 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Engine stalling after shifting
>
> Dave,
>
> How low is the idle speed?
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 12, 2014 at 3:49 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The Universal M4-30 in my boat tends to stall frequently when shifting.
>>  This primarily happens when moving forward and shifting into reverse,
>> which is of course not good for stress levels when one has to pull into a
>> slip and you can't count on slowing down.  Maybe I could increase the RPM
>> somewhat before shifting, but that seems bad for the transmission so I
>> haven't done it.  Any ideas what this might indicate?  Thanks- Dave
>>
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
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>> page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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Re: Stus-List Top rudder bushing

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dave,

The 35/3 has a fiberglass tube without bearings.  Just top and bottom nylon
bushings.  If there is play in the tube you can use epoxy to make a
"bearing".  The West website explains how.  basically, wax the rudder shaft
and pour epoxy down the rudder tube.

Joel
35/3

On Thursday, August 21, 2014, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jake,
>
> I’m following the discussion about the rudder bearings because it’s on my
> list of repair items for this coming year. Right now I have the dreaded
> wear problem in my rudder tube (clunk!) and need to tighten it up. So my
> question is this: Is your’s stock and tight or did you put a bearing in? My
> sense is that a bearing will not work with our style rudders but I was
> interested in the link to the Jefa bearing. A friend of mine here had to
> redo the rudder bearings in his J40 and the Jefa bearings were the go-to
> choice.
>
> Just curious on yours and other lister’s experiences.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Aug 21, 2014, at 9:10 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
> Joel,
>
> This is certainly an improvement in removing friction from the steering
> system.  It looks like this item may be over ½” in thickness, which might
> not work for us.  I am pretty happy with mine when it is clean and
> lubricated.  Friction is really seldom an issue for me.
>
> Jake
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
> *“Midnight Mistress”*
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On
> Behalf Of *Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 21, 2014 4:11 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Top rudder bushing
>
> There was a recent discussion about making a new delrin bushing/washer.  I
> just saw these.  Has anyone tried one?  Any reason to spend the extra $$?
>
> http://www.pyiinc.com/jefa-rudder/washers.html
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> page at:
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>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Stus-clevis pin

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

If push comes to shove a machine shop can make one for you.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 21, 2014 1:47 PM, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I have run into an unusual problem; I lost a clevis pin from the lower
> shroud, ("someone" didn't spread the cotter pin apart enough), and the pin
> vibrated out under sail; (that was pretty scary!); I thought replacing the
> pin would be easy, but I can't seem to find the part anywhere; the boat is
> a 1985 37 with the original rod rigging, (Navtec I assume); measuring the
> pin from the other shroud I get metric measurements at 1 1/2 MM diameter
> and 4 MM long; I have contacted several sources; (Defender, Rig Rite, Hayn
> and Navtec); all of whom tell me it shouldn't be metric but should be
> imperial measurement; however I tried a 1/2 inch diameter pin in there and
> it is much too small, and 5/8s is too large...I need help; can anyone steer
> me toward a source for the pin?  (PS there are no marine riggers or
> facilities in our area, we don't even have a West Marine!);
> Many thanks
>
>
> Richard
> 1985 37, CB Ohio River Mile 584;
>
>
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
>
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine stalling after shifting

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

And the funny part …..

 

We are supposed to be sailors not mechanics!

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2014 8:58 AM
To: Joel Aronson; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine stalling after shifting

 

Dave,

I had similar drama with my engine six years ago. It was made worse by a 
cantankerous starter.  I once had to have guests steer while I jumped below and 
shorted the starter solenoid contacts with a big screw driver to start it.   
(docking was similar to Jack Lemon in The Wackiest Ship In The Army)  I had the 
starter rebuilt.

 

I was able to adjust my engine's idle speed by adjusting the throttle stop at 
the engine.  I think it required two 9mm or 10mm wrenches.  No problems since.  
When docking, I set the throttle and use the shifter to put it in and out of 
gear.  I'm sure the idle is a little higher than spec, but now I feel less 
vibration and no stalling.  

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 



From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
To: "David Knecht" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 

Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 3:54:45 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine stalling after shifting

 

Dave,

 

How low is the idle speed?

 

Joel

 

 

On Tue, Aug 12, 2014 at 3:49 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:



The Universal M4-30 in my boat tends to stall frequently when shifting.  This 
primarily happens when moving forward and shifting into reverse, which is of 
course not good for stress levels when one has to pull into a slip and you 
can’t count on slowing down.  Maybe I could increase the RPM somewhat before 
shifting, but that seems bad for the transmission so I haven’t done it.  Any 
ideas what this might indicate?  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT


 

 


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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List A tribute to Doyle Sail Loft

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Wait a minute!  Your name is not Wally .

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Sippel 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2014 8:52 AM
To: John Pennie; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A tribute to Doyle Sail Loft

 

Tequila makes my Keel fall off.

 

Tim 
 Toronto   

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 9:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A tribute to Doyle Sail Loft

 

Yes, I've had good experience with Doyle here on Long Island as well.

 

Just be warned - I hear Doyle sails will make your keel fall off,

 

Everyone's thinking it- I'm just saying...

 

John

 

On Aug 21, 2014, at 6:30 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

I'm sure many of you know this but what a great company! I left a simple 
question about determining the fabric of my Doyle sails so I could figure out 
what to use to clean the mildew stains on their "info" email address. I heard 
back from Janet Doyle (my assumption is an owner or executive at least) who 
referred me to the guy that runs the sail loft (Bill) who called me and offered 
to have me bring my sails down so he could look at them and let me know what, 
if any options I had to clean them. These are old Kevlar racing sails that have 
probably begun delaminating but he said we may be able to get them looking a 
little better. Frankly the mildew stains are not that bad. I was just hoping 
for an easy solution to having at least clean sails.

 

I am impressed at the level of service they offer and it is obvious they know 
their stuff. It is also helpful that they are 30 minutes from my marina.

 

My 2 cents

 

Skip

 

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Re: Stus-List Top rudder bushing

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Rich Knowles will likely chime in on this one.  A fellow named Phil Walsh in 
Halifax (J120 Philharmonic – beautiful boat) I believe has made these in the 
past.  I have heard they work well and is a cheaper way to go ….

 

Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers33 (Yeah – I know)

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Top rudder bushing

 

There was a recent discussion about making a new delrin bushing/washer.  I just 
saw these.  Has anyone tried one?  Any reason to spend the extra $$?

 

http://www.pyiinc.com/jefa-rudder/washers.html

 

 

-- 
Joel 

35/3

Annapolis
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List A tribute to Doyle Sail Loft

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Wow — too bad for Wal…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 22, 2014, at 6:51 AM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Tequila makes my Keel fall off.
>  
> Tim 
>  Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Top rudder bushing

[Rich Knowles via CnC-List]

True. Easy to make. Even on a wood lathe. 

Rich

> On Aug 22, 2014, at 9:43, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> Rich Knowles will likely chime in on this one.  A fellow named Phil Walsh in 
> Halifax (J120 Philharmonic – beautiful boat) I believe has made these in the 
> past.  I have heard they work well and is a cheaper way to go ….
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> 1987 Frers33 (Yeah – I know)
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
> Aronson via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 5:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Top rudder bushing
>  
> There was a recent discussion about making a new delrin bushing/washer.  I 
> just saw these.  Has anyone tried one?  Any reason to spend the extra $$?
>  
> http://www.pyiinc.com/jefa-rudder/washers.html
>  
>  
> -- 
> Joel 
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 301 541 8551
> ___
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> at:
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Re: Stus-List Top rudder bushing

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Strikes me that it might be easier to have a machine shop make a thin walled 
sleeve of delrin(?) with a flange that replicates the ring we now have. The 
sleeve would drop over the top of the post and take up the slack. Am I missing 
something?  

Presumably to do the West method the rudder has to be dropped - at least far 
enough to wax the parts that are contained in the upper and lower tubes. I have 
not tried to remove my quadrant - but don't relish the thought and suspect that 
the bolts are likely "frozen" in the aluminum 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Aug 22, 2014, at 8:07, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> The 35/3 has a fiberglass tube without bearings.  Just top and bottom nylon 
> bushings.  If there is play in the tube you can use epoxy to make a 
> "bearing".  The West website explains how.  basically, wax the rudder shaft 
> and pour epoxy down the rudder tube.  
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> 
>> On Thursday, August 21, 2014, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Jake,
>> 
>> I’m following the discussion about the rudder bearings because it’s on my 
>> list of repair items for this coming year. Right now I have the dreaded wear 
>> problem in my rudder tube (clunk!) and need to tighten it up. So my question 
>> is this: Is your’s stock and tight or did you put a bearing in? My sense is 
>> that a bearing will not work with our style rudders but I was interested in 
>> the link to the Jefa bearing. A friend of mine here had to redo the rudder 
>> bearings in his J40 and the Jefa bearings were the go-to choice.
>> 
>> Just curious on yours and other lister’s experiences.
>> 
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
>> 
>>> On Aug 21, 2014, at 9:10 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Joel,
>>>  
>>> This is certainly an improvement in removing friction from the steering 
>>> system.  It looks like this item may be over ½” in thickness, which might 
>>> not work for us.  I am pretty happy with mine when it is clean and 
>>> lubricated.  Friction is really seldom an issue for me. 
>>> 
>>> Jake
>>>  
>>> Jake Brodersen
>>> “Midnight Mistress”
>>> C&C 35 Mk-III
>>> Hampton VA
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
>>> Aronson via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 4:11 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Stus-List Top rudder bushing
>>>  
>>> There was a recent discussion about making a new delrin bushing/washer.  I 
>>> just saw these.  Has anyone tried one?  Any reason to spend the extra $$?
>>>  
>>> http://www.pyiinc.com/jefa-rudder/washers.html
>>>  
>>>  
>>> -- 
>>> Joel 
>>> 35/3
>>> Annapolis
>>> 301 541 8551
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>>> page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Top rudder bushing

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

Hello

We made 2 top bearing washers (1 for my 39TM & 1 for my dock mate's 35 Mk1)
out of a sheet of .25" Teflon sourced through McMaster Carr. It took all of
about 15 minutes to produce the 2 and the 12" x 12" piece allowed each of
us to have a spare washer as well. We completely rebuilt boat's steering
systems over one weekend as well. Edson supplied the complete rebuild kits
at a very reasonable USD 1,200.00 each.

Jack Fitzgerald
C&C 39TM
HONEY
US12788
Savannah, GA


**PLEASE REMOVE honeys...@aol.com  FROM YOUR ADDRESS
BOOK AND IMMEDIATELY ADD j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
*



On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 11:05 AM, Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:

> Strikes me that it might be easier to have a machine shop make a thin
> walled sleeve of delrin(?) with a flange that replicates the ring we now
> have. The sleeve would drop over the top of the post and take up the slack.
> Am I missing something?
>
> Presumably to do the West method the rudder has to be dropped - at least
> far enough to wax the parts that are contained in the upper and lower
> tubes. I have not tried to remove my quadrant - but don't relish the
> thought and suspect that the bolts are likely "frozen" in the aluminum
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> On Aug 22, 2014, at 8:07, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> The 35/3 has a fiberglass tube without bearings.  Just top and bottom
> nylon bushings.  If there is play in the tube you can use epoxy to make a
> "bearing".  The West website explains how.  basically, wax the rudder shaft
> and pour epoxy down the rudder tube.
>
> Joel
> 35/3
>
> On Thursday, August 21, 2014, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Jake,
>>
>> I’m following the discussion about the rudder bearings because it’s on my
>> list of repair items for this coming year. Right now I have the dreaded
>> wear problem in my rudder tube (clunk!) and need to tighten it up. So my
>> question is this: Is your’s stock and tight or did you put a bearing in? My
>> sense is that a bearing will not work with our style rudders but I was
>> interested in the link to the Jefa bearing. A friend of mine here had to
>> redo the rudder bearings in his J40 and the Jefa bearings were the go-to
>> choice.
>>
>> Just curious on yours and other lister’s experiences.
>>
>> Best,
>>  Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>
>> On Aug 21, 2014, at 9:10 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>  Joel,
>>
>> This is certainly an improvement in removing friction from the steering
>> system.  It looks like this item may be over ½” in thickness, which might
>> not work for us.  I am pretty happy with mine when it is clean and
>> lubricated.  Friction is really seldom an issue for me.
>>
>> Jake
>>
>> *Jake Brodersen*
>> *“Midnight Mistress”*
>> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>> *Hampton VA*
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
>> Aronson via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, August 21, 2014 4:11 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Top rudder bushing
>>
>> There was a recent discussion about making a new delrin bushing/washer.
>>  I just saw these.  Has anyone tried one?  Any reason to spend the extra $$?
>>
>> http://www.pyiinc.com/jefa-rudder/washers.html
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>> 301 541 8551
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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> page at:
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>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Top rudder bushing

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have just had another thought on how to take out the "clunk" at least from 
the top of the rudder post - (I have never taken mine apart so would welcome 
any feedback as to why this would not work

My top rudder assembly is made up of what appears to be 4 components

1) Aluminum base - with 4 bolts - appears to be bolted through the cockpit sole 
(+/- 6" diam. )

2) another aluminum fitting that appears to be bolted with 4 bolts to component 
1 above (+/- 4" sq)

3) Delrin ring laying on top of component 2 

4) large s/s ring threaded on the inside, knurled on the outside with a number 
of set screws. This ring is screwed on to the top of the threaded rudder post 
and then held in place with the set screws

If my assumptions based on observation only are correct, could I not get a 
piece of say 1/4 in thick delrin or similar in which a hole is cut that matches 
the rudder stock exactly and which is the same size as component #2 and with 4 
holes drilled to match the holes in component #2 After supporting the rudder in 
place, take off the s/a ring and aluminum component #2. Place the square of 
delrin over the rudder post, and replace component#2. Replace the bolts, the 
delrin ring #3 and s/s ring. The sandwiched delrin layer should then act as a 
top bearing. 

Long explanation of what maybe a crazy idea!  What am I missing?


--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Aug 22, 2014, at 11:56, Joel Aronson  wrote:
> 
> Me too!  
> Are you better off with 2 washers that are 1/8 inch thick rather than 1 1/4 
> inch thick washer?
> 
> Joel
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 11:39 AM, Indigo  wrote:
>> Don't know anything about the Jefa washer - to be impressed or not 
>> impressed. Looking for something that is easy! (And not too expensive)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C&C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>> 
>>> On Aug 22, 2014, at 11:19, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Jonathan,
>>> 
>>> you are correct about having to drop the rudder to wax the rudder post.  I 
>>> was wondering if there was anything to be gained by using the Jefa washer.  
>>> I'm guessing you aren't impressed by it?
>>> 
>>> Joel
>>> 
>>> 
 On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 11:05 AM, Indigo  wrote:
 Strikes me that it might be easier to have a machine shop make a thin 
 walled sleeve of delrin(?) with a flange that replicates the ring we now 
 have. The sleeve would drop over the top of the post and take up the 
 slack. Am I missing something?  
 
 Presumably to do the West method the rudder has to be dropped - at least 
 far enough to wax the parts that are contained in the upper and lower 
 tubes. I have not tried to remove my quadrant - but don't relish the 
 thought and suspect that the bolts are likely "frozen" in the aluminum 
 
 --
 Jonathan
 Indigo C&C 35III
 SOUTHPORT CT
 
> On Aug 22, 2014, at 8:07, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> The 35/3 has a fiberglass tube without bearings.  Just top and bottom 
> nylon bushings.  If there is play in the tube you can use epoxy to make a 
> "bearing".  The West website explains how.  basically, wax the rudder 
> shaft and pour epoxy down the rudder tube.  
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> 
>> On Thursday, August 21, 2014, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Jake,
>> 
>> I’m following the discussion about the rudder bearings because it’s on 
>> my list of repair items for this coming year. Right now I have the 
>> dreaded wear problem in my rudder tube (clunk!) and need to tighten it 
>> up. So my question is this: Is your’s stock and tight or did you put a 
>> bearing in? My sense is that a bearing will not work with our style 
>> rudders but I was interested in the link to the Jefa bearing. A friend 
>> of mine here had to redo the rudder bearings in his J40 and the Jefa 
>> bearings were the go-to choice.
>> 
>> Just curious on yours and other lister’s experiences.
>> 
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
>> 
>>> On Aug 21, 2014, at 9:10 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Joel,
>>>  
>>> This is certainly an improvement in removing friction from the steering 
>>> system.  It looks like this item may be over ½” in thickness, which 
>>> might not work for us.  I am pretty happy with mine when it is clean 
>>> and lubricated.  Friction is really seldom an issue for me. 
>>> 
>>> Jake
>>>  
>>> Jake Brodersen
>>> “Midnight Mistress”
>>> C&C 35 Mk-III
>>> Hampton VA
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
>>> Aronson via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 4:11 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Stus-List Top rudder bushing
>>>  
>>> Ther

Re: Stus-List Top rudder bushing

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I think Delrin, also called Acetal, is the material of choice for the bushings.

http://www.aetnaplastics.com/products/d/Acetal

I had a machine shop make up a selection of thicknesses from tube stock
at a reasonable price - $80 for six pieces.

I did take the rudder off, cleaned and checked it for straightness. I also 
cleaned
out the rudder tube with a mild solvent and soap and water. I checked the
diameters on the shaft and tube. Since I do not know what there were to start
with it would be hard to say if there was any wear, but both are round and the
same size top to bottom. From that I would guess there was little wear.

I have not seen a spec of what the clearance should be between the rudder post
and tube. Trying to get an exact measurement of the rudder tube would require
a bit fancier stuff that I was using but my guess is that Windburn has about
1/32" clearance. After greasing everything with Lubriplate sliding the rudder 
back
in required a solid push.

I replaced both the top and bottom bushings, left a very small clearance.
While on the hard I cannot feel any play in any direction. The rudder swings
freely, either from the wheel or from the rudder.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


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Re: Stus-List More animals on the bayou

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I hope his heel will heal quickly  ;-)

Leslie
Phoenix C&C32


On Thu, 8/21/14, Edward Levert via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List More animals on the bayou
 To: "Bill Hoyne" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

 Date: Thursday, August 21, 2014, 1:42 PM
 
 And
 20 miles away from Touche, we have a bull shark biting the
 heal of a 7 year old boy swimming in Lake Pontchartrain. Boy
 do we have nature at our front door!
 EdC&C 34 Briar
 Patch
 New Orleans, La.
 
 On Thu,
 Aug 21, 2014 at 2:11 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 Yesterday while I
 was out walking the dog a black bear crossed the road 100ft
 in front of me.  I was in Alberta though :-)
 
 Bill HoyneMithrandir’74 C&C35 MkIIin Victoria,BC
 
 On Aug 21, 2014, at 8:34 AM,
 Chris Price via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 Usually it's the Osprey chasing the eagle, but last
 night while racing the Comet on the Susquehanna the Bald
 Eagle was chasing the Osprey. Always fun to watch.
 
 Chris
 Price
 
 Pradel
 35 Mk I
 
 
 From:
 "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba" 
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 10:23:58
 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List More
 animals on the bayou
 
 
 Our entertainment is the eagle vs. osprey fights.
 This is at the CRYC:
 
 http://www.dellabarba.com/flying/CRCY_EAGLE.mp4
 
 
 http://www.dellabarba.com/flying/cryc_eagle.wmv
 
 
 Joe Della Barba
 Coquina
 
 -Original
 Message-
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
 Sent:
 Thursday, August 21, 2014 9:58 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 Subject: Stus-List More animals on the bayou
 
 Touché is docked
 on Bayou Castine across from a scenic natural area that is
 part of a state park. Was drinking coffee in the cockpit
 this morning when a deer came to drink water across the
 bayou. 
 
 
 Yesterday a friend told me he
 saw a manatee in the bayou. 
 
 I often see osprey, alligators,
 Mississippi kites, swallow tail kites and other fauna.
  Occasionally I see a bald eagle. 
 
 
 Really pleasant being in such a
 beautiful environment.
 
 Dennis C.
 Touché 35-1
 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
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 go bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List More animals on the bayou

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

The reason Dennis is enjoying life so much now is that he sent all their 
humidity up to the North Coast! Take it back!

Bill Coleman
C&C 39

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Leslie Paal 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2014 2:00 PM
To: Edward Levert; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List More animals on the bayou

I hope his heel will heal quickly  ;-)

Leslie
Phoenix C&C32


On Thu, 8/21/14, Edward Levert via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List More animals on the bayou
 To: "Bill Hoyne" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

 Date: Thursday, August 21, 2014, 1:42 PM
 
 And
 20 miles away from Touche, we have a bull shark biting the
 heal of a 7 year old boy swimming in Lake Pontchartrain. Boy
 do we have nature at our front door!
 EdC&C 34 Briar
 Patch
 New Orleans, La.
 
 On Thu,
 Aug 21, 2014 at 2:11 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 Yesterday while I
 was out walking the dog a black bear crossed the road 100ft
 in front of me. �I was in Alberta though :-)
 
 Bill HoyneMithrandir�74 C&C35 MkIIin Victoria,BC
 
 On Aug 21, 2014, at 8:34 AM,
 Chris Price via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 Usually it's the Osprey chasing the eagle, but last
 night while racing the Comet on the Susquehanna the Bald
 Eagle was chasing the Osprey. Always fun to watch.
 
 Chris
 Price
 
 Pradel
 35 Mk I
 



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Re: Stus-List C&C NE Rendezvous

[David via CnC-List]

Please stay tuned for dockage  details...We will get them to you as soon as 
possible.

When you combine a non-profit organization with a state-run park things can be 
a slower than I/we like.

My Apologies to any Non-profit  and/or state employees.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C NE Rendezvous
From: jrtau...@aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 12:10:32 -0400
To: davidrisc...@msn.com

David.  Are arrangements being made for docking or moorings at Newport.  Thank. 
 Jerry Tauber

Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 20, 2014, at 8:23 PM, David  wrote:




Jerry,

Welcome to the Rendezvous!   I am sure you will find crew and we look forward 
to seeing you there! 

Please remember to look around your harbor and invite C&C's. 

A quick update, we will be posting docking details soon.  Please stay tuned.   
And remember, if you have not paid, you will not be listed as "Who's Coming".   
Please jump on a let us know.

Special thanks to Rob Gallagher ("Swag Man"), Andrew Burton ("Newport Man") and 
 John Maturo ("PR Man") for helping out with logistics.


David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 19:57:43 -0400
Subject: Stus-List C&C NE Rendezvous
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com



 I am planning on sailing to the rendezvous on Thursday the 18th or the 19th 
from Three Mile Harbor, East Hampton, NY (about 50 nm away) and am looking for 
a crew member to join me.   I would return Sunday.  The boat is a 1986 C&C 27V. 
  Might stop over in Stonington on the way.   If you are interested let me 
know.  Jerry






 






 






-Original Message-


From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 


To: John Irvin ; cnc-list 


Sent: Wed, Aug 20, 2014 1:45 pm


Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"

















Hope not.  I just spent a week racing on a 99 followed by a week racing on a 
115!



 







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Irvin 
via CnC-List


Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2014 2:31 PM


To: Danny Haughey; cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"







 







Could there have been incidents with new ones.?  110,99,etc.













From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List


Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎20 1:23 PM


To: rickbr...@earthlink.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"







Fk*n Wally...  That is hysterical!





-- Original Message --


From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 


To: Jack Fitzgerald , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 



Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"


Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 12:22:16 -0400





See the crap storm of comments that have been made in the last hour or so. 
Bottom line is she is full of it.







 







Rick





Sent from my iPad










On Aug 20, 2014, at 11:39, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List  
wrote:









I have heard via this site of many issues concerning our old boats, but so far 
not one report of a keel falling off either via gravity or grounding.





Did I miss something or is the woman writing this blog just full of crap?







 









Best regards,


Jack Fitzgerald







C&C 39 TM (1974)







 # 69)







HONEY







US12788







Savannah





 









 





On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:





Does anyone know if there is any base to the assertion the Ms. Gifford makes in 
her Sailing Totem  blog that “(C&C’s) keels are falling off!”





 





http://www.sailfeed.com/2014/08/theres-this-boat-mary-powell/





 



Assuming not, could someone remind her that baseless assertions, distributed by 
her through various channels (Sailfeed, email, f*book, etc.) is irresponsible 
and is the malady that leads to the unfortunate afflictions behind Rebel Heart 
slander and other unfortunate rumoring.



 



I would email, but I need to get back to work.  



 



Kevin



Portland



30-2







 











Kevin Driscoll


Portland,  Oregon


503  //  875  //  3493






















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Re: Stus-List Ever Have a Battery-Selector Switch Go Bad?

[kirk sneddon via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

Until last weekend I would have said no. Then

 

Spent about an hour checking everything because selector switches  "never go
bad"  By process of elimination confirmed that it was the switch. I could
initially get power on 2 or all, then only on 2. 

 

When I went to  remove the leads from the back of the old switch the plastic
just crumbled. Likely the casing had cracked from age and this didn't hold
things in intimate contact.

 

Never heard of one going bad, thought they were infinite life but apparently
not.

 

Defender doesn't carry the Perko switches. They carry Blue Seas. The mount
holes on the Blue Seas line up to the Perko that likely came on your boat.
There are some gaps in the surround casing  on the switch I purchased that
will transmit noise into the cabin from the engine compartment. Look
carefully at the options, so you don't repeat my error on that front.

 

Installed the new switch and everything is ducky regarding electrical
function.

 

Kirk Sneddon

C&C 29 Mk II

Flying Cloud

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 2:57 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List Ever Have a Battery-Selector Switch Go Bad?

 

Listers,

 

Has anyone ever had a Battery-Selector Switch go bad on them? 

 

Strange thing happened on the Enterprise last night after racing
and preparing to go home. As I moved the selector from ALL to Battery 1,
everything shut down. Going back to ALL or Battery 2, everything came back
on again. 

 

I checked the voltage on 1 before I left and saw 12.35 volts (we
were running lights and all for a while post-racing.) Certainly enough to
power the lights that I had switched on.

 

My first guess is that it's the switch, but I'd welcome any
suggestions or other things to investigate from the wisdom of the group.

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 

 

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Re: Stus-List A tribute to Doyle Sail Loft

[kirk sneddon via CnC-List]

 

Doyle Huntington made me a #1 (155) last season. The transformation from the
old #1 was amazing. The boat is close winded and fast. I can confirm that
they know their stuff.

 

Now if I could stop tacking into headers...

 

Kirk Sneddon

C&C Mk 29 Mk II

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 6:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List A tribute to Doyle Sail Loft

 

I'm sure many of you know this but what a great company! I left a simple
question about determining the fabric of my Doyle sails so I could figure
out what to use to clean the mildew stains on their "info" email address. I
heard back from Janet Doyle (my assumption is an owner or executive at
least) who referred me to the guy that runs the sail loft (Bill) who called
me and offered to have me bring my sails down so he could look at them and
let me know what, if any options I had to clean them. These are old Kevlar
racing sails that have probably begun delaminating but he said we may be
able to get them looking a little better. Frankly the mildew stains are not
that bad. I was just hoping for an easy solution to having at least clean
sails.

 

I am impressed at the level of service they offer and it is obvious they
know their stuff. It is also helpful that they are 30 minutes from my
marina.

 

My 2 cents

 

Skip

 

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Re: Stus-List Ever Have a Battery-Selector Switch Go Bad?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Kirk, 

Thanks. It was the weirdest thing and I thought it had to be the switch 
too. I have another Perko switch on board and can swap it (at least I hope so.) 
I’ll be out there tomorrow morning to investigate and repair. 

I was planning to do an overhaul of the main electrical over the winter 
— worst case scenario is I’ll just move up that schedule. 

Imagine that — a captain named Kirk helping out the Enterprise. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

On Aug 22, 2014, at 4:51 PM, kirk sneddon  wrote:

> Edd,
>  
> Until last weekend I would have said no. Then……..
>  
> Spent about an hour checking everything because selector switches  “never go 
> bad”  By process of elimination confirmed that it was the switch. I could 
> initially get power on 2 or all, then only on 2.
>  
> When I went to  remove the leads from the back of the old switch the plastic 
> just crumbled. Likely the casing had cracked from age and this didn’t hold 
> things in intimate contact.
>  
> Never heard of one going bad, thought they were infinite life but apparently 
> not.
>  
> Defender doesn’t carry the Perko switches. They carry Blue Seas. The mount 
> holes on the Blue Seas line up to the Perko that likely came on your boat. 
> There are some gaps in the surround casing  on the switch I purchased that 
> will transmit noise into the cabin from the engine compartment. Look 
> carefully at the options, so you don’t repeat my error on that front.
>  
> Installed the new switch and everything is ducky regarding electrical 
> function.
>  
> Kirk Sneddon
> C&C 29 Mk II
> Flying Cloud
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd 
> Schillay via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 2:57 PM
> To: C&C List
> Subject: Stus-List Ever Have a Battery-Selector Switch Go Bad?
>  
> Listers,
>  
> Has anyone ever had a Battery-Selector Switch go bad on them? 
>  
> Strange thing happened on the Enterprise last night after racing 
> and preparing to go home. As I moved the selector from ALL to Battery 1, 
> everything shut down. Going back to ALL or Battery 2, everything came back on 
> again. 
>  
> I checked the voltage on 1 before I left and saw 12.35 volts (we 
> were running lights and all for a while post-racing.) Certainly enough to 
> power the lights that I had switched on.
>  
> My first guess is that it’s the switch, but I’d welcome any 
> suggestions or other things to investigate from the wisdom of the group.
>  
> 
> All the best,
>  
> Edd
>  
>  
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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