Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Cheoy Lee, and I imagine other Asian
  manufactures, made a slew of boats similar to this one. I know
  Bill Luders had a relationship with Cheoy Lee, and he did many
  boats in this general style. There are also some old Hinckley and
  Morris boats that have this look. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 6/2/2014 10:20 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Allied built a knock off of the Cape Dory 25. One came
through the city docks where I work about a week ago, with a
young couple moving it to their new home. When I asked if it was
a Cape Dory, they told me it was an Allied, licensed from the
Cape Dory 25 design.
  
  
  Rick Brass
  


  


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Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List]

Hi Rick,

This is an absolute wealth of information that will save me 
time, frustration and should lead to a successful repair.  She is a 1973 boat 
with the aluminum frame so your repair advice and detail is already invaluable. 
 Additional information would be appreciated, but with what you have already 
provided makes a new C&C 30 sailor very happy.  I hope someday that I can repay 
the favor to you or other C&C owners, but will certainly let you know of the 
outcome after the repair is made.

Thanks,

Rick Jorgensen

Gloucester, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 11:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

 

Richard;

 

This is a subject that gets covered often on the list. You will find a wealth 
of instructions on the DIY section of the Photo Album, or in the list archives.

 

But first, you will need to identify which version of portlights (the name for 
non-opening cbin windos) you have. Early boats came with an aluminum frame 
mounted to the cabin side, with a polycarbonate window pane mounted with a seal 
inside the window and a spline outside and holding the window into the frame. 
This version was common until the late 70s - say 79 or so. 

 

Later boats had the portlights bonded to the outside of the cabin sides with a 
material called Plexus.

 

I have the aluminum frames on both of my boats. New lenses can be nade by any 
glass shop that repairs storm doors - the 1/4" smoked gray panes for my boats 
cost about $10 each. The inner seal can be bought at LOWES, a 20-25 foot roll 
of EPDM seal costs about $15 or so. I have part of a roll left over but it is 
in the storage shed. Someone on the list can give you a part number to 
purchase. The outer spline can be gotten from the glas shop, or bought on Ebay 
pretty cheaply. IIRC I paid about 40 cents a foot for the last I bought.

 

If you have the glued in windows, several listers have alternate suggestions 
for gluingnew panes to the cabin top. Keep in mind that the portlight becomes 
part of the structure of the boat and is subject to a lot of flexing and high 
loads, so you want to do the repair with that in mind. 

 

If you tell us which style of portlight you have, we can provide more 
information to you.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC.  

 

 

-Original Message- 
From: Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List 
Sent: Jun 2, 2014 10:25 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
Subject: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1 




Both cabin windows on my C&C30 are leaking and need replacement.  Does anyone 
have any experience, advice or suggestions?

Thanks,

Rick Jorgensen

 
 
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Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Rick

 

One thing to add to what you have been told.

 

Check to see that the leaks are from between the aluminum frame and the window 
pane rather than from between the aluminum frame and the boat.  I suspect this 
is in fact the case and if so DO NOT remove the aluminum frame as there is no 
need.

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard 
Jorgensen via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2014 9:06 AM
To: 'Rick Brass'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

 

Hi Rick,

This is an absolute wealth of information that will save me 
time, frustration and should lead to a successful repair.  She is a 1973 boat 
with the aluminum frame so your repair advice and detail is already invaluable. 
 Additional information would be appreciated, but with what you have already 
provided makes a new C&C 30 sailor very happy.  I hope someday that I can repay 
the favor to you or other C&C owners, but will certainly let you know of the 
outcome after the repair is made.

Thanks,

Rick Jorgensen

Gloucester, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 11:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

 

Richard;

 

This is a subject that gets covered often on the list. You will find a wealth 
of instructions on the DIY section of the Photo Album, or in the list archives.

 

But first, you will need to identify which version of portlights (the name for 
non-opening cbin windos) you have. Early boats came with an aluminum frame 
mounted to the cabin side, with a polycarbonate window pane mounted with a seal 
inside the window and a spline outside and holding the window into the frame. 
This version was common until the late 70s - say 79 or so. 

 

Later boats had the portlights bonded to the outside of the cabin sides with a 
material called Plexus.

 

I have the aluminum frames on both of my boats. New lenses can be nade by any 
glass shop that repairs storm doors - the 1/4" smoked gray panes for my boats 
cost about $10 each. The inner seal can be bought at LOWES, a 20-25 foot roll 
of EPDM seal costs about $15 or so. I have part of a roll left over but it is 
in the storage shed. Someone on the list can give you a part number to 
purchase. The outer spline can be gotten from the glas shop, or bought on Ebay 
pretty cheaply. IIRC I paid about 40 cents a foot for the last I bought.

 

If you have the glued in windows, several listers have alternate suggestions 
for gluingnew panes to the cabin top. Keep in mind that the portlight becomes 
part of the structure of the boat and is subject to a lot of flexing and high 
loads, so you want to do the repair with that in mind. 

 

If you tell us which style of portlight you have, we can provide more 
information to you.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC.  

 

 

-Original Message- 
From: Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List 
Sent: Jun 2, 2014 10:25 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1 



Both cabin windows on my C&C30 are leaking and need replacement.  Does 
anyone have any experience, advice or suggestions?

Thanks,

Rick Jorgensen

 
 
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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Rich

 

Not a minuette.  I had one of those for a number of years back in the day and 
we kept it moored in NW Arm.  There is a really pretty blue Minuette moored 
currently in Purcell’s Cove.

 

The Minuette is 19 ft LOA and has a cuddy for stowing sails but no cabin.

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 7:40 PM
To: Graham Collins; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

 

Haven't even looks at the pics, but is it a McVey Minuet? Just a WAG. 

Rich


On Jun 2, 2014, at 19:31, Graham Collins via CnC-List  
wrote:

I agree it isn't a Bluenose, but a bluenose is 23' 3" LOA per specs.  
16 ft on the waterline though, she has pretty long overhangs.




Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-06-02 7:23 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List wrote:

The issue with the Bluenose is that it is only maybe 16 feet 
long and this boat is obviously much bigger. The cape dory I linked has the 
same port configuration, but I agree that the stern is wrong. There were a ton 
of "me too" boats in that era, so this could even be from some company that 
built 10-20 boats and folded. 25 to 20 feet seems the right size range. The 
roue 20 lacks the wood coamings, and has slotted metal toerails. To me it seems 
like just another of the "me too" boats with lines approximately borrowed from 
CD. This boat has many CD inspired visual clues. The little triangular second 
set of spreaders looks familiar. Another guess of mine that is probably wrong, 
but might jog someone else's memory is that it looks similar but not identical 
to a Sea Sprite.

http://www.boatersresources.com/bfs_detail.php?adid=99781

Bill Bina

On 6/2/2014 4:51 PM, dwight wrote:

The stern of the cape dorey is quite different and not 
as sleek as the lttle Bluenose or the Roue 20, which is another possibility but 
the Roue 20 is 30 feet long

 





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
Sent: June 2, 2014 3:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of 
this boat?

 

http://www.sailingtexas.com/scapedory25100.html


Bill Bina

On 6/2/2014 1:08 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:

 
 

 







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Stus-List Electro Scan

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

The LCD display on my 12v Electro Scan doesn't work anymore. The system 
functions, just can't read the error or status messages. Anybody got a used one 
that's working and for sale?

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Joe at Zialater via CnC-List]

Hi Rick,

I replaced the seals on my 1975 30 MK1 last year.  It was an absolute
breeze.  Got the parts from South shore yachts - just measure and order.
Take out the old gaskets and clean the aluminum frames.  If your windows are
shot (mine were fine) just use the old windows to as a template for the new
ones.  Reinstall windows with the sticky back seal and then the gaskets.
Took about an hour to do all four - no leaks and they look great.  If I
recall,  the south shore kit included detailed instructions.

Good luck,

Joe Boyle
'75 30 MK1 "Zia"
Annapolis


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Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+

[Steven Winks via CnC-List]

Hi. I am planning to install a Raymarine X5 wheel pilot in my C&C 34+. Does 
anyone have any advice on where best to install the computer and flux gate 
compass?

Thanks for any help.

Steve Winks 
Corsair VI
1990 C&C 34+
Midland, ON___
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+

[dwight via CnC-List]

I have my fluxgate compass mounted low in the boat just after of the mast
under the settee near center line.I have the control computer mounted in a
pod on the Binnacle guard.same pod also has my gps chartplotter.I find these
to be good locations on my 35 MKII.I like to have the control where I can
see rudder angle and heading, a remote control would be useful at times but
I do not have one and there is little to interfere with the compass in that
location.mine is an ST 4000 MKII plus, not that much different than the
newer X5

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steven
Winks via CnC-List
Sent: June 3, 2014 10:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+

 

Hi. I am planning to install a Raymarine X5 wheel pilot in my C&C 34+. Does
anyone have any advice on where best to install the computer and flux gate
compass?

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Steve Winks 

Corsair VI

1990 C&C 34+

Midland, ON

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Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Like others have said, easy job.  Here's the step by step.

Cut new lenses from smoked Lexan (polycarbonate) using old lenses as
template

Mix a bowl of soapy water and make a "push" stick.  A cut off piece of yard
stick or similar will work.

Clean the old gasket off the aluminum frame completely.

Install the new EPDM gasket from Lowes or Home Depot (Frost King D gasket
V25BK or MD Building Products #1025) with joint at top

Place lens.

Wet spline with soapy water and start spline at top center.  Work it around
frame using soapy water and push stick,

Pop a beer.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, Jun 3, 2014 at 7:59 AM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Rick,
>
> I replaced the seals on my 1975 30 MK1 last year.  It was an absolute
> breeze.  Got the parts from South shore yachts - just measure and order.
> Take out the old gaskets and clean the aluminum frames.  If your windows
> are
> shot (mine were fine) just use the old windows to as a template for the new
> ones.  Reinstall windows with the sticky back seal and then the gaskets.
> Took about an hour to do all four - no leaks and they look great.  If I
> recall,  the south shore kit included detailed instructions.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Joe Boyle
> '75 30 MK1 "Zia"
> Annapolis
>
>
> ___
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>
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> page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I installed the X5 with a p70 head unit last year and installed the flux gate 
in the L shaped settee, low and near the center just aft of the head.I still 
haven't got the stupid thing working however...

-- Original Message --
From: dwight via CnC-List 
To: "'Steven Winks'" , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 10:14:48 -0300


 
I have my fluxgate compass mounted low in the boat just after of the mast under 
the settee near center line…I have the control computer mounted in a pod 
on the Binnacle guard…same pod also has my gps chartplotter…I 
find these to be good locations on my 35 MKII…I like to have the control 
where I can see rudder angle and heading, a remote control would be useful at 
times but I do not have one and there is little to interfere with the compass 
in that location…mine is an ST 4000 MKII plus, not that much different 
than the newer X5
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steven Winks 
via CnC-List
 Sent: June 3, 2014 10:03 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
 
Hi. I am planning to install a Raymarine X5 wheel pilot in my C&C 34+. Does 
anyone have any advice on where best to install the computer and flux gate 
compass?
 
Thanks for any help.
 
Steve Winks 
Corsair VI
1990 C&C 34+
Midland, ON
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Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Mike and Richard

Mike makes a good point that I neglected to mention. Based on my experience 
with the aluminum framed port lights, there is little likelihood of the leak 
being between the frame and the cabin side. So don't disturb the window frame 
unless you absolutely need to.

I've had my 1975 25mk1 for 20 years this month, and my 1976 38mk1 for 11 years 
last month. Never had a leak around the frame - C&C built the boats well and 
the butyl sealant is still doing its job.

The lexan/plexiglas lenses get crazed after 10-15 years in the sun. I initially 
tried to polish the lenses on the 25 in about 1999, discovered it to be a time 
consuming PITA, and ended up replacing them. Took an old lens to a glass shop 
that happens to repair storm doors and they used the old lens as a pattern for 
new ones. And since a glass shop guess a lot of polycarbonate for door repairs, 
new panes are pretty cheap.

As someone already pointed out, you can get kits for reselling the port lights 
from Southshore or Holland Marine. Convenient but pricy. The EPDM seals from 
Lowes last longer than the foam seals used originally, and I've found I can get 
materials to do all 4 of the port lights on my 28 for the price of 1 kit from 
Southshore. Buy, hey, I'm cheap.

Anyway, reselling the aluminum frame port lights is cheap and easy maintenance.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 3, 2014, at 8:35, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> Rick
>  
> One thing to add to what you have been told.
>  
> Check to see that the leaks are from between the aluminum frame and the 
> window pane rather than from between the aluminum frame and the boat.  I 
> suspect this is in fact the case and if so DO NOT remove the aluminum frame 
> as there is no need.
>  
> Mike
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard 
> Jorgensen via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2014 9:06 AM
> To: 'Rick Brass'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
>  
> Hi Rick,
> This is an absolute wealth of information that will save me 
> time, frustration and should lead to a successful repair.  She is a 1973 boat 
> with the aluminum frame so your repair advice and detail is already 
> invaluable.  Additional information would be appreciated, but with what you 
> have already provided makes a new C&C 30 sailor very happy.  I hope someday 
> that I can repay the favor to you or other C&C owners, but will certainly let 
> you know of the outcome after the repair is made.
> Thanks,
> Rick Jorgensen
> Gloucester, MA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 11:35 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
>  
> Richard;
>  
> This is a subject that gets covered often on the list. You will find a wealth 
> of instructions on the DIY section of the Photo Album, or in the list 
> archives.
>  
> But first, you will need to identify which version of portlights (the name 
> for non-opening cbin windos) you have. Early boats came with an aluminum 
> frame mounted to the cabin side, with a polycarbonate window pane mounted 
> with a seal inside the window and a spline outside and holding the window 
> into the frame. This version was common until the late 70s - say 79 or so.
>  
> Later boats had the portlights bonded to the outside of the cabin sides with 
> a material called Plexus.
>  
> I have the aluminum frames on both of my boats. New lenses can be nade by any 
> glass shop that repairs storm doors - the 1/4" smoked gray panes for my boats 
> cost about $10 each. The inner seal can be bought at LOWES, a 20-25 foot roll 
> of EPDM seal costs about $15 or so. I have part of a roll left over but it is 
> in the storage shed. Someone on the list can give you a part number to 
> purchase. The outer spline can be gotten from the glas shop, or bought on 
> Ebay pretty cheaply. IIRC I paid about 40 cents a foot for the last I bought.
>  
> If you have the glued in windows, several listers have alternate suggestions 
> for gluingnew panes to the cabin top. Keep in mind that the portlight becomes 
> part of the structure of the boat and is subject to a lot of flexing and high 
> loads, so you want to do the repair with that in mind.
>  
> If you tell us which style of portlight you have, we can provide more 
> information to you.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC.  
>  
>  
> -Original Message- 
> From: Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List 
> Sent: Jun 2, 2014 10:25 PM 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1 
> 
> 
> Both cabin windows on my C&C30 are leaking and need replacement.  Does anyone 
> have any experience, advice or suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Rick Jorgensen
>  
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by th

Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Richard,

Just to add a bit to what Dennis has written (and thanks Denis for providing 
the seal part numbers, it saves me a trip to the storage shed and from digging 
through my spares):

I use a tongue depresser as a push stick, bought a package at Walgreens a few 
years ago for mixing epoxy and find them very useful for various boat projects. 
I suppose a Popsicle stick would also work.

When installing the spline (outer seal). Be careful not to stretch it. It tends 
to shrink as it ages, and can pull out of the corners of the frame over time. I 
cut the spline a couple of inches longer than it needs to be and try to push 
the spline into the groove in the frame so it is slightly compressed. When I 
get back to the top of the frame, I use a razor blade to cut the spline to 
length and make a tight joint.

Rick Brass

> 
Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 3, 2014, at 9:29, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> Like others have said, easy job.  Here's the step by step.
> 
> Cut new lenses from smoked Lexan (polycarbonate) using old lenses as template
> 
> Mix a bowl of soapy water and make a "push" stick.  A cut off piece of yard 
> stick or similar will work.
> 
> Clean the old gasket off the aluminum frame completely.
> 
> Install the new EPDM gasket from Lowes or Home Depot (Frost King D gasket 
> V25BK or MD Building Products #1025) with joint at top
> 
> Place lens.  
> 
> Wet spline with soapy water and start spline at top center.  Work it around 
> frame using soapy water and push stick,
> 
> Pop a beer.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
>> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

On my 35 I put the compass in the aft end of the quarter berth and the
fluxgate in the wet locker.

Joel

On Tuesday, June 3, 2014, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I installed the X5 with a p70 head unit last year and installed the flux
> gate in the L shaped settee, low and near the center just aft of the head.
> I still haven't got the stupid thing working however...
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: dwight via CnC-List  >
> To: "'Steven Winks'"  >, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
> Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 10:14:48 -0300
>
>
>
> I have my fluxgate compass mounted low in the boat just after of the mast
> under the settee near center line…I have the control computer mounted in a
> pod on the Binnacle guard…same pod also has my gps chartplotter…I find
> these to be good locations on my 35 MKII…I like to have the control where I
> can see rudder angle and heading, a remote control would be useful at times
> but I do not have one and there is little to interfere with the compass in
> that location…mine is an ST 4000 MKII plus, not that much different than
> the newer X5
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On
> Behalf Of *Steven Winks via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June 3, 2014 10:03 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
>
>
>
> Hi. I am planning to install a Raymarine X5 wheel pilot in my C&C 34+.
> Does anyone have any advice on where best to install the computer and flux
> gate compass?
>
>
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
>
>
> Steve Winks
>
> Corsair VI
>
> 1990 C&C 34+
>
> Midland, ON
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Winch Handles

[Philip Szalich via CnC-List]

Have sold my sailboats and am in the process of selling gear. I plan to put 
everything on eBay but I have 2 Barlow 10” winch handles (bronze/chrome) that 
were on my 1972 25’ C&C so I thought I would give the “listers” a shot at them 
before I go the eBay route. I figure that a C&C sailor will give them a good 
home. These winch handles are in very good condition and have only seen fresh 
water. I plan to list them one for $30 USF, both for $45 USF, plus shipping.

If anyone is interested you can contact me at philipszal...@execulink.com.

Thx

Phil___
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I installed an X-5 a few years back on my 35-3 (it worked perfectly out of
the box, so don't fret too much).

The fluxgate is in the wet locker (like Joel's) - near the mast and pretty
low down to reduce motion, away from other wiring to reduce electromagnetic
interference.
The course computer (separate from the control head on the X5) is in the
over-settee locker on the bulkhead just ahead of the nav station - close to
the switch panel for wiring, dry, conveniently between connections for the
other components.
You don't have many options for the control head / wheel drive... but, my
control head seems to be where some people rest their knees in the cockpit,
and it is possible to press buttons with knees even with the cover on,
which can be interesting the first few times.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT




>> --
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Steven
>> Winks via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* June 3, 2014 10:03 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi. I am planning to install a Raymarine X5 wheel pilot in my C&C 34+.
>> Does anyone have any advice on where best to install the computer and flux
>> gate compass?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any help.
>>
>>
>>
>> Steve Winks
>>
>> Corsair VI
>>
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>
>> Midland, ON
>>
>
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Stus-List Skanky hot water

[Dave Lane via CnC-List]

Hi,

On our 29-2, the hot water has been skanky (technical work for "it 
smells some") for years and I'd like to do something about if finally. 
The fresh water system is fine. It's a cube shaped 5 gallon unit that 
pre-dates our ownership of the boat. It is dual electric and engine hot 
water heated.


Any suggestions on how I can flush it? Javex maybe? Clearly I don't want 
to do anything to wreck the cold water system.


--- Dave
83 C&C 29-2
St Margaret Sailing Club, NS



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Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Paul,

It’s been a hell of an experience. Turns out the divers went down on 
Sunday (I was on board working on other things) and they told me they couldn’t 
get their hands/tools in there to get the cotter pins undone to pull the peg 
out and connect a new cable. Turns out cable replacement access isn’t all that 
great on a 37+ and requires a haul every time. Plus, where the cable was 
frayed, based on my measurements, was somewhere in the system that nobody could 
ever view without taking the whole damn thing apart. 

Add to that — we could not push a new cable down because it starts on 
deck, makes a 90-degree turn down through a stainless tube, then, in the bilge 
and completely sealed, it makes another 90-degree turn aft, and then a quick 
additional 90-degree turn down. Could not get the cable to make that last turn. 

And then I thought I’m going to have to do all this again in 5 years. 
And maybe it will break again. And maybe the next time it breaks it will do 
some serious keel damage. I just said, and I quote, “Screw it!”

The yard is pulling the boat today, pushing the board in, bolting it in 
place and sealing the slot. As far as I can tell, I’ll have the only 
shoal-draft C&C 37+ on the planet (or, using terms we usually use on the boat, 
the galaxy).

There were, of course, two concerns: Performance and Resale Value. 

Performance upwind in 10+ will be affected, but let’s be honest, we 
only use the board when racing, have found it to slow us down in under 10 and, 
if you’re familiar with Western Long Island Sound, days of 10+ are few and far 
between. Add to that the limited about of racing we do (non-spin in a beer can 
night series only) and the cost/worry of maintaining a centerboard system, I 
decided I could live with the reduced performance. 

As to resale value, I think the board is really only a value to a 
racing-oriented owner, and it’s not a C&C 37R, but a C&C 37+. I think 
racing-oriented shoppers are going to be looking for J-Boats, Beneteaus, etc. 
and not a 18,500 lb.-displacement cruiser. I also think that a prospective 
buyer will like the idea of a shoal-draft roomy cruiser with a now 
zero-maintence keel.

Of course, I may be wrong, but as I tell people, “I may not always be 
right, but I’m never in doubt.” 

Either way, it’s getting done today/tomorrow. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

On Jun 2, 2014, at 5:53 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:

> Edd,
> 
> I can smile and relate to your cb challenges... 
> 
> 2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 
> friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to 
> release the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which 
> stopper he pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped.
> 
> We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled 
> the cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so over 
> due for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the replacement - 
> and when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was 70% or more 
> worn thru, the thimble was also well worn ...
> 
> Good thing it happened in a calm harbour  And the admiral was not on 
> board.
> 
> The new fittings look much more substantial and should out last my sailing 
> days!
> 
> Paul. :)
> 
> 
> On Jun 2, 2014, at 4:41 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>> Just curious — does anyone, or know of anyone, who sealed up their 
>> centerboard and received a PHRF credit on their rating? I’m curious to know 
>> how much credit was given. I’ve been told it can be anywhere from 3-9 
>> points. ‘
>> 
>> Mine is getting bolted in place and sealed up for good tomorrow. 
>> 
>> Long story, but now is the time. Read the Captain’s Log if you’re curious.
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise (To be the world’s only shoal-draft C&C 37+)
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 

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Re: Stus-List Skanky hot water

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

>From my archives, I think this was Roger Spence's remedy.

We clean the water tanks twice a year with a solution of lemon juice and
baking soda in the water (lots of foaming up and hissing), bounce around for
about
1/2 hour, and empty the tanks. Keeps everything sweet, without the Clorox
taste
Assuming that you have a plastic tank, with reinforced walls at the tank 
cleanout plug; and that you'll be at a dock with good water provisions.

The clean out procedure is with a small wet brush inside the tank connected 
to an extension device (I use firm coat hangers taped to the brush in a wet 
tank) (a bit of water in the bottom) to scrub down the tank walls as best 
you can, while manipulating the angle of the extension (coat hanger) to get 
to the walls as best you can.

Pump the tank dry, and whatever guck you accumulated should be near the 
drain ( the boats water feed tube). Remove it with a sponge, paper towel, 
whatever.

Now a garden hose with a pressure fitting can be inserted into the primarily

cleaned tank, and a high pressure spray can first help clean the bottom and 
lower parts, then as the water rises, your spray will be directed at the 
higher walls, top.

Pump the tank dry and remove whatever guck is near the drain (water feed 
fitting).

Replace the cleanout plug, using the plumbers teflon tape to seal the 
threads, taking care not to cross thread the soft plastic.

With the loose guck you removed, now clean-out any in-line filters that are 
in the fresh water system, to capture the rest of the guck.

Now, pour about 1/2 a large box of Arm & Hammer Baking Soda in the deck 
tank fill.

Fill the tank about 1/2 full with fresh water.

Pour 1/2 of a large bottle of Concentrated Lemon Juice, like ReaLemon, into 
the thrudeck fitting, and stand back!

The Lemon Juice will react with the baking soda and create a volcano of foam

coming out the deck fitting! This is good foam that will touch every corner 
and crevice of your tank to kill whatever slime is living there. Close the 
deck fitting, clean the deck, and go sailing or motoring, to get some wave 
action inside the tank.

About three hours later, back at the dock, pump the lemon/baking soda 
mixture through your fresh water system; fill the tank again, and pump it 
through again.

Now, clean out your pump guard strainers, replace your in-line carbon 
filter, whatever.

Your water tank will have killed the nasties, and the new fresh water will 
taste:
"Well clean; kinda fruity with not too much nose; flinty but robust; I 
can taste the blackberries:" but somehow, it doesn't have that Chlorine
aftertaste!!
After you drain the chlorine water mixture, fill the tank again but this
time add a cup of vinegar. Run it through the lines and top up the tank
again. Let it sit another 24 hours and drain. This will get rid of the
chlorine smell and taste. The water will be as clean, tasty (or tasteless)
and safe to drink as you put in. 
I added a combination ceramic, activated charcoal water filter at the sink
and use this for drinking water. Charcoal removes Chlorine.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Lane
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2014 12:14 PM
To: via CnC-List
Subject: Stus-List Skanky hot water

Hi,

On our 29-2, the hot water has been skanky (technical work for "it 
smells some") for years and I'd like to do something about if finally. 
The fresh water system is fine. It's a cube shaped 5 gallon unit that 
pre-dates our ownership of the boat. It is dual electric and engine hot 
water heated.

Any suggestions on how I can flush it? Javex maybe? Clearly I don't want 
to do anything to wreck the cold water system.

--- Dave
83 C&C 29-2
St Margaret Sailing Club, NS



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Re: Stus-List Skanky hot water

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If this water heater is like what I have, it should have the "input" and 
"output" hoses. If you disconnect them, you can rig a simple flushing 
solution (garden hose from the dock to the input and another hose out to the 
water). Any chemical solution would probably do (chlorine, lemon juice + 
soda, etc.)


The major problem is, usually, access. So be prepared for a lot of scraped 
skin off your knuckles.


Good luck

Marek


-Original Message- 
From: Dave Lane via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2014 12:14 PM
To: via CnC-List
Subject: Stus-List Skanky hot water

Hi,

On our 29-2, the hot water has been skanky (technical work for "it
smells some") for years and I'd like to do something about if finally.
The fresh water system is fine. It's a cube shaped 5 gallon unit that
pre-dates our ownership of the boat. It is dual electric and engine hot
water heated.

Any suggestions on how I can flush it? Javex maybe? Clearly I don't want
to do anything to wreck the cold water system.

--- Dave
83 C&C 29-2
St Margaret Sailing Club, NS



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Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

Edd, for reference purposes, take a look at the archive pages on the Sailing 
Saralane website; they did just what you are describing and sailed the whole 
Caribbean that way... 


Richard

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255



-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
To:  
Sent: Tue, Jun 3, 2014 1:36 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit


Paul,


It’s been a hell of an experience. Turns out the divers went down on Sunday (I 
was on board working on other things) and they told me they couldn’t get their 
hands/tools in there to get the cotter pins undone to pull the peg out and 
connect a new cable. Turns out cable replacement access isn’t all that great on 
a 37+ and requires a haul every time. Plus, where the cable was frayed, based 
on my measurements, was somewhere in the system that nobody could ever view 
without taking the whole damn thing apart. 


Add to that — we could not push a new cable down because it starts on deck, 
makes a 90-degree turn down through a stainless tube, then, in the bilge and 
completely sealed, it makes another 90-degree turn aft, and then a quick 
additional 90-degree turn down. Could not get the cable to make that last turn. 


And then I thought I’m going to have to do all this again in 5 years. And maybe 
it will break again. And maybe the next time it breaks it will do some serious 
keel damage. I just said, and I quote, “Screw it!”


The yard is pulling the boat today, pushing the board in, bolting it in place 
and sealing the slot. As far as I can tell, I’ll have the only shoal-draft C&C 
37+ on the planet (or, using terms we usually use on the boat, the galaxy).


There were, of course, two concerns: Performance and Resale Value. 


Performance upwind in 10+ will be affected, but let’s be honest, we only use 
the board when racing, have found it to slow us down in under 10 and, if you’re 
familiar with Western Long Island Sound, days of 10+ are few and far between. 
Add to that the limited about of racing we do (non-spin in a beer can night 
series only) and the cost/worry of maintaining a centerboard system, I decided 
I could live with the reduced performance. 


As to resale value, I think the board is really only a value to a 
racing-oriented owner, and it’s not a C&C 37R, but a C&C 37+. I think 
racing-oriented shoppers are going to be looking for J-Boats, Beneteaus, etc. 
and not a 18,500 lb.-displacement cruiser. I also think that a prospective 
buyer will like the idea of a shoal-draft roomy cruiser with a now 
zero-maintence keel.


Of course, I may be wrong, but as I tell people, “I may not always be right, 
but I’m never in doubt.” 


Either way, it’s getting done today/tomorrow. 




All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


On Jun 2, 2014, at 5:53 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:



Edd,


I can smile and relate to your cb challenges... 


2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 
friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to release 
the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which stopper he 
pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped.


We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled the 
cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so over due 
for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the replacement - and 
when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was 70% or more worn 
thru, the thimble was also well worn ...


Good thing it happened in a calm harbour  And the admiral was not on 
board.


The new fittings look much more substantial and should out last my sailing days!

Paul. :) 




On Jun 2, 2014, at 4:41 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
wrote:



Listers, 


Just curious — does anyone, or know of anyone, who sealed up their centerboard 
and received a PHRF credit on their rating? I’m curious to know how much credit 
was given. I’ve been told it can be anywhere from 3-9 points. ‘


Mine is getting bolted in place and sealed up for good tomorrow. 


Long story, but now is the time. Read the Captain’s Log if you’re curious.




All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise (To be the world’s only shoal-draft C&C 37+)
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




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Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Replacement sounds just like mine ... Same challenges. Pin was a bear to remove 
no room to work, and cotter pin was fully bent back on both legs, only room for 
1 hand. To fish the new one in they removed the shiv in the on deck turning 
block, dropped a weighted line down, attached the new cable and pulled it up, 
marked the cable for full down then moved the board up and swagged the 2 
ferrels on. Had to be that was as the lower swage was done in the shop on a 
roll press ... Total cost including haul and hang was about $800 Canadian.

We cruise only these days, and I like the board down in all but light winds ... 
 It does stabilize the boat in the chop we get on Lake Ontario - but even here 
there are times it is great to have.

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 3, 2014, at 1:36 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Paul,

It’s been a hell of an experience. Turns out the divers went down on Sunday (I 
was on board working on other things) and they told me they couldn’t get their 
hands/tools in there to get the cotter pins undone to pull the peg out and 
connect a new cable. Turns out cable replacement access isn’t all that great on 
a 37+ and requires a haul every time. Plus, where the cable was frayed, based 
on my measurements, was somewhere in the system that nobody could ever view 
without taking the whole damn thing apart.

Add to that — we could not push a new cable down because it starts on deck, 
makes a 90-degree turn down through a stainless tube, then, in the bilge and 
completely sealed, it makes another 90-degree turn aft, and then a quick 
additional 90-degree turn down. Could not get the cable to make that last turn.

And then I thought I’m going to have to do all this again in 5 years. And maybe 
it will break again. And maybe the next time it breaks it will do some serious 
keel damage. I just said, and I quote, “Screw it!”

The yard is pulling the boat today, pushing the board in, bolting it in place 
and sealing the slot. As far as I can tell, I’ll have the only shoal-draft C&C 
37+ on the planet (or, using terms we usually use on the boat, the galaxy).

There were, of course, two concerns: Performance and Resale Value.

Performance upwind in 10+ will be affected, but let’s be honest, we only use 
the board when racing, have found it to slow us down in under 10 and, if you’re 
familiar with Western Long Island Sound, days of 10+ are few and far between. 
Add to that the limited about of racing we do (non-spin in a beer can night 
series only) and the cost/worry of maintaining a centerboard system, I decided 
I could live with the reduced performance.

As to resale value, I think the board is really only a value to a 
racing-oriented owner, and it’s not a C&C 37R, but a C&C 37+. I think 
racing-oriented shoppers are going to be looking for J-Boats, Beneteaus, etc. 
and not a 18,500 lb.-displacement cruiser. I also think that a prospective 
buyer will like the idea of a shoal-draft roomy cruiser with a now 
zero-maintence keel.

Of course, I may be wrong, but as I tell people, “I may not always be right, 
but I’m never in doubt.”

Either way, it’s getting done today/tomorrow.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

On Jun 2, 2014, at 5:53 PM, Paul Fountain 
mailto:p...@seasource.ca>> wrote:

Edd,

I can smile and relate to your cb challenges...

2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 
friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to release 
the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which stopper he 
pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped.

We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled the 
cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so over due 
for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the replacement - and 
when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was 70% or more worn 
thru, the thimble was also well worn ...

Good thing it happened in a calm harbour  And the admiral was not on 
board.

The new fittings look much more substantial and should out last my sailing days!

Paul. :)


On Jun 2, 2014, at 4:41 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers,

Just curious — does anyone, or know of anyone, who sealed up their centerboard 
and received a PHRF credit on their rating? I’m curious to know how much credit 
was given. I’ve been told it can be anywhere from 3-9 points. ‘

Mine is getting bolted in place and sealed up for good tomorrow.

Long story, but now is the time. Read the Captain’s Log if you’re curious.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise (To be the world’s only shoal-draft C&C 37+)
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

Re: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

On our 37+ the flux gate is under the settee against the forward bulkhead,
on the centreline as that end of the U shaped settee allows room for this.
 The course computer is behind instrument and switch panels in the nav area.

Ken H.


On 3 June 2014 12:46, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I installed an X-5 a few years back on my 35-3 (it worked perfectly out of
> the box, so don't fret too much).
>
> The fluxgate is in the wet locker (like Joel's) - near the mast and pretty
> low down to reduce motion, away from other wiring to reduce electromagnetic
> interference.
> The course computer (separate from the control head on the X5) is in the
> over-settee locker on the bulkhead just ahead of the nav station - close to
> the switch panel for wiring, dry, conveniently between connections for the
> other components.
> You don't have many options for the control head / wheel drive... but, my
> control head seems to be where some people rest their knees in the cockpit,
> and it is possible to press buttons with knees even with the cover on,
> which can be interesting the first few times.
>
> Tim
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
>
>
>
>
>>> --
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>>> *Steven
>>> Winks via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* June 3, 2014 10:03 AM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi. I am planning to install a Raymarine X5 wheel pilot in my C&C 34+.
>>> Does anyone have any advice on where best to install the computer and flux
>>> gate compass?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for any help.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Steve Winks
>>>
>>> Corsair VI
>>>
>>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>>
>>> Midland, ON
>>>
>>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Charles Nelson via CnC-List]

On my cb, it is not possible to replace the cable or even check it carefully 
without having the boat in the travel lift high enough to remove the topside 
stopper mechanism so the board can be fully dropped so it hangs only by the 
pin. Of course this requires at least some time in the lift but for my cb, it 
impossible to see, let alone work on the board end of the pennant otherwise.
Since my boat gets bottom paint every season, there is only a few hours of yard 
time additional--we'll worth it for the peace of mind that my board will stay 
with the boat for the season!

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 3, 2014, at 2:36 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Replacement sounds just like mine ... Same challenges. Pin was a bear to 
> remove no room to work, and cotter pin was fully bent back on both legs, only 
> room for 1 hand. To fish the new one in they removed the shiv in the on deck 
> turning block, dropped a weighted line down, attached the new cable and 
> pulled it up, marked the cable for full down then moved the board up and 
> swagged the 2 ferrels on. Had to be that was as the lower swage was done in 
> the shop on a roll press ... Total cost including haul and hang was about 
> $800 Canadian. 
> 
> We cruise only these days, and I like the board down in all but light winds 
> ...  It does stabilize the boat in the chop we get on Lake Ontario - but even 
> here there are times it is great to have.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Jun 3, 2014, at 1:36 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
>> Paul,
>> 
>> It’s been a hell of an experience. Turns out the divers went down on Sunday 
>> (I was on board working on other things) and they told me they couldn’t get 
>> their hands/tools in there to get the cotter pins undone to pull the peg out 
>> and connect a new cable. Turns out cable replacement access isn’t all that 
>> great on a 37+ and requires a haul every time. Plus, where the cable was 
>> frayed, based on my measurements, was somewhere in the system that nobody 
>> could ever view without taking the whole damn thing apart. 
>> 
>> Add to that — we could not push a new cable down because it starts on deck, 
>> makes a 90-degree turn down through a stainless tube, then, in the bilge and 
>> completely sealed, it makes another 90-degree turn aft, and then a quick 
>> additional 90-degree turn down. Could not get the cable to make that last 
>> turn. 
>> 
>> And then I thought I’m going to have to do all this again in 5 years. And 
>> maybe it will break again. And maybe the next time it breaks it will do some 
>> serious keel damage. I just said, and I quote, “Screw it!”
>> 
>> The yard is pulling the boat today, pushing the board in, bolting it in 
>> place and sealing the slot. As far as I can tell, I’ll have the only 
>> shoal-draft C&C 37+ on the planet (or, using terms we usually use on the 
>> boat, the galaxy).
>> 
>> There were, of course, two concerns: Performance and Resale Value. 
>> 
>> Performance upwind in 10+ will be affected, but let’s be honest, we only use 
>> the board when racing, have found it to slow us down in under 10 and, if 
>> you’re familiar with Western Long Island Sound, days of 10+ are few and far 
>> between. Add to that the limited about of racing we do (non-spin in a beer 
>> can night series only) and the cost/worry of maintaining a centerboard 
>> system, I decided I could live with the reduced performance. 
>> 
>> As to resale value, I think the board is really only a value to a 
>> racing-oriented owner, and it’s not a C&C 37R, but a C&C 37+. I think 
>> racing-oriented shoppers are going to be looking for J-Boats, Beneteaus, 
>> etc. and not a 18,500 lb.-displacement cruiser. I also think that a 
>> prospective buyer will like the idea of a shoal-draft roomy cruiser with a 
>> now zero-maintence keel.
>> 
>> Of course, I may be wrong, but as I tell people, “I may not always be right, 
>> but I’m never in doubt.” 
>> 
>> Either way, it’s getting done today/tomorrow. 
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>>> On Jun 2, 2014, at 5:53 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Edd,
>>> 
>>> I can smile and relate to your cb challenges... 
>>> 
>>> 2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 
>>> friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to 
>>> release the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which 
>>> stopper he pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped.
>>> 
>>> We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled 
>>> the cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so 
>>> over due for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the 
>>> replacement - and when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was 
>>> 70% or 

Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

I was "involved" with a 1990 C&C 37+  named "Blue Pearl" out of Mt Sinai 
Harbor. It must be the only other 37+ cb'er in existence.  I fully agree with 
you about board up/down on performance.  The best use of the centerboard was 
when staying at Newport YC in Jersey city. With the board down it really helped 
control the roll from Hudson river traffic.

Michael Cotton


On Tuesday, June 3, 2014 2:36 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

>
>
>Replacement sounds just like mine ... Same challenges. Pin was a bear to 
>remove no room to work, and cotter pin was fully bent back on both legs, only 
>room for 1 hand. To fish the new one in they removed the shiv in the on deck 
>turning block, dropped a weighted line down, attached the new cable and pulled 
>it up, marked the cable for full down then moved the board up and swagged the 
>2 ferrels on. Had to be that was as the lower swage was done in the shop on a 
>roll press ... Total cost including haul and hang was about $800 Canadian.  
>
>
>We cruise only these days, and I like the board down in all but light winds 
>...  It does stabilize the boat in the chop we get on Lake Ontario - but even 
>here there are times it is great to have.
>
>Sent from my iPad
>
>On Jun 3, 2014, at 1:36 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>
>Paul, 
>>
>>
>>It’s been a hell of an experience. Turns out the divers went down on Sunday 
>>(I was on board working on other things) and they told me they couldn’t get 
>>their hands/tools in there to get the cotter pins undone to pull the peg out 
>>and connect a new cable. Turns out cable replacement access isn’t all that 
>>great on a 37+ and requires a haul every time. Plus, where the cable was 
>>frayed, based on my measurements, was somewhere in the system that nobody 
>>could ever view without taking the whole damn thing apart. 
>>
>>
>>Add to that — we could not push a new cable down because it starts on deck, 
>>makes a 90-degree turn down through a stainless tube, then, in the bilge and 
>>completely sealed, it makes another 90-degree turn aft, and then a quick 
>>additional 90-degree turn down. Could not get the cable to make that last 
>>turn. 
>>
>>
>>And then I thought I’m going to have to do all this again in 5 years. And 
>>maybe it will break again. And maybe the next time it breaks it will do some 
>>serious keel damage. I just said, and I quote, “Screw it!”
>>
>>
>>The yard is pulling the boat today, pushing the board in, bolting it in place 
>>and sealing the slot. As far as I can tell, I’ll have the only shoal-draft 
>>C&C 37+ on the planet (or, using terms we usually use on the boat, the 
>>galaxy).
>>
>>
>>There were, of course, two concerns: Performance and Resale Value. 
>>
>>
>>Performance upwind in 10+ will be affected, but let’s be honest, we only use 
>>the board when racing, have found it to slow us down in under 10 and, if 
>>you’re familiar with Western Long Island Sound, days of 10+ are few and far 
>>between. Add to that the limited about of racing we do (non-spin in a beer 
>>can night series only) and the cost/worry of maintaining a centerboard 
>>system, I decided I could live with the reduced performance. 
>>
>>
>>As to resale value, I think the board is really only a value to a 
>>racing-oriented owner, and it’s not a C&C 37R, but a C&C 37+. I think 
>>racing-oriented shoppers are going to be looking for J-Boats, Beneteaus, etc. 
>>and not a 18,500 lb.-displacement cruiser. I also think that a prospective 
>>buyer will like the idea of a shoal-draft roomy cruiser with a now 
>>zero-maintence keel.
>>
>>
>>Of course, I may be wrong, but as I tell people, “I may not always be right, 
>>but I’m never in doubt.” 
>>
>>
>>Either way, it’s getting done today/tomorrow. 
>>
>>
>>
>>All the best,
>>
>>
>>Edd
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Edd M. Schillay
>>Starship Enterprise
>>C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>City Island, NY 
>>Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>>
>>On Jun 2, 2014, at 5:53 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
>>
>>Edd,
>>>
>>>
>>>I can smile and relate to your cb challenges... 
>>>
>>>
>>>2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 
>>>friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to 
>>>release the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which 
>>>stopper he pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped.
>>>
>>>
>>>We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled 
>>>the cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so 
>>>over due for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the 
>>>replacement - and when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was 
>>>70% or more worn thru, the thimble was also well worn ...
>>>
>>>
>>>Good thing it happened in a calm harbour  And the admiral was not on 
>>>board.
>>>
>>>
>>>The new fittings look much more substantial and should out last my sailing 
>>>days!
>>>
>>>Paul. :) 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>On Jun 2, 2014, at 4:41 PM, 

Stus-List Landfall 35 - now mine

[JAMES LEMESURIER via CnC-List]

Good evening

I've been lurking here for a while, waiting to take ownership of an 81 Landfall 
35. She splashed on Saturday and the hand-off took place. She's now berthed at 
the RKYC in Saint John,NB Canada. Plan to spend this season getting to know the 
boat on the Saint John River and Bay of Fundy - maybe down the Maine coast. 
Seems like a helpful crowd here. I am sure to have lots of questions. 

James LeMesurier 
Landfall 35 SISU
Saint John, NB

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 35 - now mine

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Welcome James, and congrats on the purchase.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-06-03 8:14 PM, JAMES LEMESURIER via CnC-List wrote:

Good evening

I've been lurking here for a while, waiting to take ownership of an 81 Landfall 
35. She splashed on Saturday and the hand-off took place. She's now berthed at 
the RKYC in Saint John,NB Canada. Plan to spend this season getting to know the 
boat on the Saint John River and Bay of Fundy - maybe down the Maine coast. 
Seems like a helpful crowd here. I am sure to have lots of questions.

James LeMesurier
Landfall 35 SISU
Saint John, NB

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Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

Just to clarify -- there are several 37+ cb's out there. 

After tomorrow I'll probably have the only shoal draft C&C 37+. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5

On Jun 3, 2014, at 6:37 PM, Michael Cotton via CnC-List  
wrote:

I was "involved" with a 1990 C&C 37+  named "Blue Pearl" out of Mt Sinai 
Harbor. It must be the only other 37+ cb'er in existence.  I fully agree with 
you about board up/down on performance.  The best use of the centerboard was 
when staying at Newport YC in Jersey city. With the board down it really helped 
control the roll from Hudson river traffic.

Michael Cotton


On Tuesday, June 3, 2014 2:36 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Replacement sounds just like mine ... Same challenges. Pin was a bear to remove 
no room to work, and cotter pin was fully bent back on both legs, only room for 
1 hand. To fish the new one in they removed the shiv in the on deck turning 
block, dropped a weighted line down, attached the new cable and pulled it up, 
marked the cable for full down then moved the board up and swagged the 2 
ferrels on. Had to be that was as the lower swage was done in the shop on a 
roll press ... Total cost including haul and hang was about $800 Canadian.  

We cruise only these days, and I like the board down in all but light winds ... 
 It does stabilize the boat in the chop we get on Lake Ontario - but even here 
there are times it is great to have.

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 3, 2014, at 1:36 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
wrote:

> Paul,
> 
> It’s been a hell of an experience. Turns out the divers went down on Sunday 
> (I was on board working on other things) and they told me they couldn’t get 
> their hands/tools in there to get the cotter pins undone to pull the peg out 
> and connect a new cable. Turns out cable replacement access isn’t all that 
> great on a 37+ and requires a haul every time. Plus, where the cable was 
> frayed, based on my measurements, was somewhere in the system that nobody 
> could ever view without taking the whole damn thing apart. 
> 
> Add to that — we could not push a new cable down because it starts on deck, 
> makes a 90-degree turn down through a stainless tube, then, in the bilge and 
> completely sealed, it makes another 90-degree turn aft, and then a quick 
> additional 90-degree turn down. Could not get the cable to make that last 
> turn. 
> 
> And then I thought I’m going to have to do all this again in 5 years. And 
> maybe it will break again. And maybe the next time it breaks it will do some 
> serious keel damage. I just said, and I quote, “Screw it!”
> 
> The yard is pulling the boat today, pushing the board in, bolting it in place 
> and sealing the slot. As far as I can tell, I’ll have the only shoal-draft 
> C&C 37+ on the planet (or, using terms we usually use on the boat, the 
> galaxy).
> 
> There were, of course, two concerns: Performance and Resale Value. 
> 
> Performance upwind in 10+ will be affected, but let’s be honest, we only use 
> the board when racing, have found it to slow us down in under 10 and, if 
> you’re familiar with Western Long Island Sound, days of 10+ are few and far 
> between. Add to that the limited about of racing we do (non-spin in a beer 
> can night series only) and the cost/worry of maintaining a centerboard 
> system, I decided I could live with the reduced performance. 
> 
> As to resale value, I think the board is really only a value to a 
> racing-oriented owner, and it’s not a C&C 37R, but a C&C 37+. I think 
> racing-oriented shoppers are going to be looking for J-Boats, Beneteaus, etc. 
> and not a 18,500 lb.-displacement cruiser. I also think that a prospective 
> buyer will like the idea of a shoal-draft roomy cruiser with a now 
> zero-maintence keel.
> 
> Of course, I may be wrong, but as I tell people, “I may not always be right, 
> but I’m never in doubt.” 
> 
> Either way, it’s getting done today/tomorrow. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>> On Jun 2, 2014, at 5:53 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
>> 
>> Edd,
>> 
>> I can smile and relate to your cb challenges... 
>> 
>> 2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 
>> friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to 
>> release the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which 
>> stopper he pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped.
>> 
>> We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled 
>> the cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so 
>> over due for replacement. Arranged to ha

Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Let us know what you get from PHRF.


On Tuesday, June 3, 2014 7:41 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

>
>
>Listers,
>
>
>Just to clarify -- there are several 37+ cb's out there. 
>
>
>After tomorrow I'll probably have the only shoal draft C&C 37+. 
>
>
>
>
>All the best,
>
>
>Edd
>
>
>---
>Edd M. Schillay
>Starship Enterprise
>NCC-1701-B
>C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
>www.StarshipSailing.com
>---
>914.332.4400  | Office
>914.332.1671  | Fax
>914.774.9767  | Mobile
>---
>Sent via iPhone 5
>
>On Jun 3, 2014, at 6:37 PM, Michael Cotton via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
>I was "involved" with a 1990 C&C 37+  named "Blue Pearl" out of Mt Sinai 
>Harbor. It must be the only other 37+ cb'er in existence.  I fully agree with 
>you about board up/down on performance.  The best use of the centerboard was 
>when staying at Newport YC in Jersey city. With the board down it really 
>helped control the roll from Hudson river traffic.
>
>
>Michael Cotton
>
>
>
>On Tuesday, June 3, 2014 2:36 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> 
>
>>
>>
>>Replacement sounds just like mine ... Same challenges. Pin was a bear to 
>>remove no room to work, and cotter pin was fully bent back on both legs, only 
>>room for 1 hand. To fish the new one in they removed the shiv in the on deck 
>>turning block, dropped a weighted line down, attached the new cable and 
>>pulled it up, marked the cable for full down then moved the board up and 
>>swagged the 2 ferrels on. Had to be that was as the lower swage was done in 
>>the shop on a roll press ... Total cost including haul and hang was about 
>>$800 Canadian.  
>>
>>
>>We cruise only these days, and I like the board down in all but light winds 
>>...  It does stabilize the boat in the chop we get on Lake Ontario - but even 
>>here there are times it is great to have.
>>
>>Sent from my iPad
>>
>>On Jun 3, 2014, at 1:36 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>Paul, 
>>>
>>>
>>>It’s been a hell of an experience. Turns out the divers went down on Sunday 
>>>(I was on board working on other things) and they told me they couldn’t get 
>>>their hands/tools in there to get the cotter pins undone to pull the peg out 
>>>and connect a new cable. Turns out cable replacement access isn’t all that 
>>>great on a 37+ and requires a haul every time. Plus, where the cable was 
>>>frayed, based on my measurements, was somewhere in the system that nobody 
>>>could ever view without taking the whole damn thing apart. 
>>>
>>>
>>>Add to that — we could not push a new cable down because it starts on deck, 
>>>makes a 90-degree turn down through a stainless tube, then, in the bilge and 
>>>completely sealed, it makes another 90-degree turn aft, and then a quick 
>>>additional 90-degree turn down. Could not get the cable to make that last 
>>>turn. 
>>>
>>>
>>>And then I thought I’m going to have to do all this again in 5 years. And 
>>>maybe it will break again. And maybe the next time it breaks it will do some 
>>>serious keel damage. I just said, and I quote, “Screw it!”
>>>
>>>
>>>The yard is pulling the boat today, pushing the board in, bolting it in 
>>>place and sealing the slot. As far as I can tell, I’ll have the only 
>>>shoal-draft C&C 37+ on the planet (or, using terms we usually use on the 
>>>boat, the galaxy).
>>>
>>>
>>>There were, of course, two concerns: Performance and Resale Value. 
>>>
>>>
>>>Performance upwind in 10+ will be affected, but let’s be honest, we only use 
>>>the board when racing, have found it to slow us down in under 10 and, if 
>>>you’re familiar with Western Long Island Sound, days of 10+ are few and far 
>>>between. Add to that the limited about of racing we do (non-spin in a beer 
>>>can night series only) and the cost/worry of maintaining a centerboard 
>>>system, I decided I could live with the reduced performance. 
>>>
>>>
>>>As to resale value, I think the board is really only a value to a 
>>>racing-oriented owner, and it’s not a C&C 37R, but a C&C 37+. I think 
>>>racing-oriented shoppers are going to be looking for J-Boats, Beneteaus, 
>>>etc. and not a 18,500 lb.-displacement cruiser. I also think that a 
>>>prospective buyer will like the idea of a shoal-draft roomy cruiser with a 
>>>now zero-maintence keel.
>>>
>>>
>>>Of course, I may be wrong, but as I tell people, “I may not always be right, 
>>>but I’m never in doubt.” 
>>>
>>>
>>>Either way, it’s getting done today/tomorrow. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>All the best,
>>>
>>>
>>>Edd
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Edd M. Schillay
>>>Starship Enterprise
>>>C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>>City Island, NY 
>>>Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>>>
>>>On Jun 2, 2014, at 5:53 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
>>>
>>>Edd,


I can smile and relate to your cb challenges... 


2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 
friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to 

Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Very logical evaluation Captain, 

Just a concern? How will you winterize the centerboard trunk? How will you be 
sure it is dry in there? 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Tuesday, June 3, 2014 1:35:50 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit 

Paul, 

It’s been a hell of an experience. Turns out the divers went down on Sunday (I 
was on board working on other things) and they told me they couldn’t get their 
hands/tools in there to get the cotter pins undone to pull the peg out and 
connect a new cable. Turns out cable replacement access isn’t all that great on 
a 37+ and requires a haul every time. Plus, where the cable was frayed, based 
on my measurements, was somewhere in the system that nobody could ever view 
without taking the whole damn thing apart. 

Add to that — we could not push a new cable down because it starts on deck, 
makes a 90-degree turn down through a stainless tube, then, in the bilge and 
completely sealed, it makes another 90-degree turn aft, and then a quick 
additional 90-degree turn down. Could not get the cable to make that last turn. 

And then I thought I’m going to have to do all this again in 5 years. And maybe 
it will break again. And maybe the next time it breaks it will do some serious 
keel damage. I just said, and I quote, “Screw it!” 

The yard is pulling the boat today, pushing the board in, bolting it in place 
and sealing the slot. As far as I can tell, I’ll have the only shoal-draft C&C 
37+ on the planet (or, using terms we usually use on the boat, the galaxy). 

There were, of course, two concerns: Performance and Resale Value. 

Performance upwind in 10+ will be affected, but let’s be honest, we only use 
the board when racing, have found it to slow us down in under 10 and, if you’re 
familiar with Western Long Island Sound, days of 10+ are few and far between. 
Add to that the limited about of racing we do (non-spin in a beer can night 
series only) and the cost/worry of maintaining a centerboard system, I decided 
I could live with the reduced performance. 

As to resale value, I think the board is really only a value to a 
racing-oriented owner, and it’s not a C&C 37R, but a C&C 37+. I think 
racing-oriented shoppers are going to be looking for J-Boats, Beneteaus, etc. 
and not a 18,500 lb.-displacement cruiser. I also think that a prospective 
buyer will like the idea of a shoal-draft roomy cruiser with a now 
zero-maintence keel. 

Of course, I may be wrong, but as I tell people, “I may not always be right, 
but I’m never in doubt.” 

Either way, it’s getting done today/tomorrow. 


All the best, 

Edd 


Edd M. Schillay 
Starship Enterprise 
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 

On Jun 2, 2014, at 5:53 PM, Paul Fountain < p...@seasource.ca > wrote: 




Edd, 

I can smile and relate to your cb challenges... 

2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 
friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to release 
the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which stopper he 
pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped. 

We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled the 
cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so over due 
for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the replacement - and 
when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was 70% or more worn 
thru, the thimble was also well worn ... 

Good thing it happened in a calm harbour  And the admiral was not on 
board. 

The new fittings look much more substantial and should out last my sailing 
days! 

Paul. :) 


On Jun 2, 2014, at 4:41 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 




Listers, 

Just curious — does anyone, or know of anyone, who sealed up their centerboard 
and received a PHRF credit on their rating? I’m curious to know how much credit 
was given. I’ve been told it can be anywhere from 3-9 points. ‘ 

Mine is getting bolted in place and sealed up for good tomorrow. 

Long story, but now is the time. Read the Captain’s Log if you’re curious. 


All the best, 

Edd 


Edd M. Schillay 
Starship Enterprise (To be the world’s only shoal-draft C&C 37+) 
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






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Stus-List Skanky Hot Water heater...

[via CnC-List]

Hi Dave..the easiest thing to do is to pull the tank and take it home to work 
on.  Put rubber plugs in the enging hoses, disconnect the water in and out, and 
the AC power.
I did that one winter when my water pump was on the fritz and I wasn't able to 
put a little anti-freeze in the tank.  Got some garden hose fittings, flushed 
multiple times with LimeAway, and took the time to re-paint with Rustoleum 
spray paint.  Looks like new and has never worked better.  It may be an 
original (Raritan?) on my 1984 LF 38.
After struggling with that I installed a flush and fill system so I can use my 
drill-pump to remove the last bits of water and add a tad of antifreeze.
The only gotcha is to make sure any air in the heater hoses gets ventedjust 
run the enginge and loosen the top hose going to/from the water heater.  You 
will hear the air escaping and just need to reconnect when antifreeze starts to 
ozooze.
You could also get a new one, but, I bet this will doit.  Good Luck!!

Spencer Johnson
1984 C&C LF 38 "Alegria" #165
~~~_/) * 
Mount Prospect, IL
~~~
On our 29-2, the hot water has been skanky (technical work for "it 
smells some") for years and I'd like to do something about if finally. 
The fresh water system is fine. It's a cube shaped 5 gallon unit that 
pre-dates our ownership of the boat. It is dual electric and engine hot 
water heated.

Any suggestions on how I can flush it? Javex maybe? Clearly I don't want 
to do anything to wreck the cold water system.

--- Dave
83 C&C 29-2
St Margaret Sailing Club, NS


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Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Edd, did you just say that your performance will be increased with the
board bolted up (so you won't be tempted to drop it in <10kts and slow
yourself down)?  Don't tell your local PHRF handicapper that...

Tim
PHRF Handicapper ECSA...

On Tue, Jun 3, 2014 at 1:35 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Paul,
>
> It’s been a hell of an experience. Turns out the divers went down on
> Sunday (I was on board working on other things) and they told me they
> couldn’t get their hands/tools in there to get the cotter pins undone to
> pull the peg out and connect a new cable. Turns out cable replacement
> access isn’t all that great on a 37+ and requires a haul every time. Plus,
> where the cable was frayed, based on my measurements, was somewhere in the
> system that nobody could ever view without taking the whole damn thing
> apart.
>
> Add to that — we could not push a new cable down because it starts on
> deck, makes a 90-degree turn down through a stainless tube, then, in the
> bilge and completely sealed, it makes another 90-degree turn aft, and then
> a quick additional 90-degree turn down. Could not get the cable to make
> that last turn.
>
> And then I thought I’m going to have to do all this again in 5 years. And
> maybe it will break again. And maybe the next time it breaks it will do
> some serious keel damage. I just said, and I quote, “Screw it!”
>
> The yard is pulling the boat today, pushing the board in, bolting it in
> place and sealing the slot. As far as I can tell, I’ll have the only
> shoal-draft C&C 37+ on the planet (or, using terms we usually use on the
> boat, the galaxy).
>
> There were, of course, two concerns: Performance and Resale Value.
>
> Performance upwind in 10+ will be affected, but let’s be honest, we only
> use the board when racing, have found it to slow us down in under 10 and,
> if you’re familiar with Western Long Island Sound, days of 10+ are few and
> far between. Add to that the limited about of racing we do (non-spin in a
> beer can night series only) and the cost/worry of maintaining a centerboard
> system, I decided I could live with the reduced performance.
>
> As to resale value, I think the board is really only a value to a
> racing-oriented owner, and it’s not a C&C 37R, but a C&C 37+. I think
> racing-oriented shoppers are going to be looking for J-Boats, Beneteaus,
> etc. and not a 18,500 lb.-displacement cruiser. I also think that a
> prospective buyer will like the idea of a shoal-draft roomy cruiser with a
> now zero-maintence keel.
>
> Of course, I may be wrong, but as I tell people, “I may not always be
> right, but I’m never in doubt.”
>
> Either way, it’s getting done today/tomorrow.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
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Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+

[via CnC-List]

Hi SteveI mounted the ST60 (?) controller on an Edison arm and pod off of 
the binnacle hand hold.  The 'brains' I mounted on the bulkhead at the nav 
station...remember that LF's have that bulkhead at the base of the 
companionway...and the fluxgate I mounted below the galley sink under the 
removable access port.  An easy enough job and all went well.  The Edson parts 
are not cheep, but, quite well made.  It was a good choice as I do not have a 
'pod'.
Good Luck!

Spencer Johnson
1984 C&C LF 38 "Alegria" #165
~~~_/) * 
Mount Prospect, IL
~~~
Winks via CnC-List
Sent: June 3, 2014 10:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+

Hi. I am planning to install a Raymarine X5 wheel pilot in my C&C 34+. Does
anyone have any advice on where best to install the computer and flux gate
compass?

Thanks for any help.


Steve Winks 
Corsair VI
1990 C&C 34+
Midland, ON


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