Re: Stus-List jammed transmission lever

[Rich Knowles]

Pour penetrating oil down the cable interior and let it set for a day. Also 
look for a small u-bolt clamp on the cable that is often used to prevent 
throttle slippage. If there is one, try loosening it. Best solution is to 
replace the cable. Yours is likely 30 or so years old and a bit tired. 

Rich

> On Apr 27, 2014, at 23:49, Eric Frank  wrote:
> 
> Did that - clear result.  The lever at the pedestal is still jammed - cable 
> won't move.  But the transmission is easy to shift even by hand, so it's 
> fine.  That seems a good (i.e. easier and cheaper-to-fix) result.  Opened the 
> pedestal, removed the compass, and the shifting mechanism looks fine from the 
> top view.  So seems likely that the cable is rusted, perhaps right down near 
> where it exits the sheathing and connects to the tranny lever.  Would moving 
> the cable around with pliers right where it exits the sheath, perhaps 
> squirting with penetrating oil help?  Other suggestions?
> 
> Eric
> 
>> You have the first step:  disconnect the cable at the lever and see if the 
>> tx lever moves. 
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Apr 27, 2014, at 7:36, Eric Frank  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Just replaced the PYI dripless "stuffing box" on Cat's Paw, a 35 C&C Mk II. 
>>>  With lots of help from the list last fall, got the old one out and just 
>>> replaced it with a new one last weekend. The re-installation went very 
>>> smoothly and I thought all was well.  But when I fired up the Perkins 
>>> diesel yesterday (still on the hard), the shift lever is stuck in neutral.  
>>> I noticed that was true last weekend just after the install, but figured 
>>> the engine needed to be running to get it in gear. No banging needed on the 
>>> prop shaft to drive the shaft back into the coupling, so I don't think 
>>> there was any strain on the transmission.  Would like advice about where to 
>>> look for the jam. In the shift lever from the pedestal? In the transmission 
>>> itself? Maybe disconnect the shift cable from the transmission and see if I 
>>> can then move the shift lever?  Advice from the list soon would be greatly 
>>> appreciated.  Launch date is slated for this week, but if the prop shaft 
>>> has to be disconnected from the tranny to fix things, launch needs to be 
>>> delayed.
>>> 
>>> Thanks for advice!  Don't know what to try.
>>> 
>>> Eric
> 
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Re: Stus-List Replace impeller on Sherwood pump

[Rich Knowles]

Good stuff!

Rich

> On Apr 27, 2014, at 22:42, David Knecht  wrote:
> 
> I forgot to report back on this one.  It turns out the the new impeller came 
> with 2 O rings and I had presumed they were the same.  In fact, one was 
> larger than the other and when I tried the other O ring, it stayed in the 
> groove just fine.  At least that is one job completed.  Thanks- Dave
> 
>> On Apr 6, 2014, at 12:33 AM, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>> 
>> Put some thick grease or vaseline on the o ring to hold it in place. 
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List jammed transmission lever

[Don Newman]

Replace the cable!!  Based on unpleasant experience a stiff cable will break at 
the threads at the most inconvenient time. They aren't as expensive as the 
damage that could be done if it breaks while in gear at the wrong time. 

Don Newman
C&C 44

> On Apr 27, 2014, at 22:49, Eric Frank  wrote:
> 
> Did that - clear result.  The lever at the pedestal is still jammed - cable 
> won't move.  But the transmission is easy to shift even by hand, so it's 
> fine.  That seems a good (i.e. easier and cheaper-to-fix) result.  Opened the 
> pedestal, removed the compass, and the shifting mechanism looks fine from the 
> top view.  So seems likely that the cable is rusted, perhaps right down near 
> where it exits the sheathing and connects to the tranny lever.  Would moving 
> the cable around with pliers right where it exits the sheath, perhaps 
> squirting with penetrating oil help?  Other suggestions?
> 
> Eric
> 
>> You have the first step:  disconnect the cable at the lever and see if the 
>> tx lever moves. 
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Apr 27, 2014, at 7:36, Eric Frank  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Just replaced the PYI dripless "stuffing box" on Cat's Paw, a 35 C&C Mk II. 
>>>  With lots of help from the list last fall, got the old one out and just 
>>> replaced it with a new one last weekend. The re-installation went very 
>>> smoothly and I thought all was well.  But when I fired up the Perkins 
>>> diesel yesterday (still on the hard), the shift lever is stuck in neutral.  
>>> I noticed that was true last weekend just after the install, but figured 
>>> the engine needed to be running to get it in gear. No banging needed on the 
>>> prop shaft to drive the shaft back into the coupling, so I don't think 
>>> there was any strain on the transmission.  Would like advice about where to 
>>> look for the jam. In the shift lever from the pedestal? In the transmission 
>>> itself? Maybe disconnect the shift cable from the transmission and see if I 
>>> can then move the shift lever?  Advice from the list soon would be greatly 
>>> appreciated.  Launch date is slated for this week, but if the prop shaft 
>>> has to be disconnected from the tranny to fix things, launch needs to be 
>>> delayed.
>>> 
>>> Thanks for advice!  Don't know what to try.
>>> 
>>> Eric
> 
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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler for sale - Sidney, BC

[Hoyt, Mike]

Peter

 

When you remove it for shipping be aware Locktite was used when
assembling the foil sections.  Use heat (propane or butane torch) until
it sizzles and then the set screws will come out.

 

I learned this the hard way

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Fell
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2014 10:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Harken Furler for sale - Sidney, BC

 

For Sale:

 

Mark 1 Unit 0 Harken furling gear. 

Drum assembly, integral turnbuckle, 7/16" diameter toggle, torque tube,
halyard swivel. 

Approximately 37-1/2 feet total length, but the top 4-inches or so of
the foil is damaged. The foil is still assembled and the forestay is
still installed but the top portion of the forestay is damaged as well.
Foil would have to be trimmed back to a shorter length and new forestay
installed. However, when it was removed from the boat, there was some
spare foil length under the bottom collar. 

The furler is date stamped 1993 but the rigger who installed my new unit
deemed this one to be in very good condition.

 

Located in Sidney, British Columbia ... 5-minute walk down the road to a
local marina, so easy to transport the furler to your boat.

 

Asking $400

 

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
C&C 27 MkIII

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Re: Stus-List jammed transmission lever

[Gary Nylander]

Agreed - replace! Not necessarily because it will or has rusted at the threads, 
but likely that it is rusted inside! Mine rusted and then failed completely - 
fortunately it was at the dock and I had time to replace it. It jammed down 
inside of the sheathing (they are made up of a spring-wound flex tube wrapped 
in plastic or rubber).

Try your local outboard shop, they often have cables in lots of lengths. Take 
the old one out and measure carefully.

Gary
30-1
  - Original Message - 
  From: Don Newman 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 28, 2014 8:33 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List jammed transmission lever


  Replace the cable!!  Based on unpleasant experience a stiff cable will break 
at the threads at the most inconvenient time. They aren't as expensive as the 
damage that could be done if it breaks while in gear at the wrong time. 

  Don Newman
  C&C 44

  On Apr 27, 2014, at 22:49, Eric Frank  wrote:


Did that - clear result.  The lever at the pedestal is still jammed - cable 
won't move.  But the transmission is easy to shift even by hand, so it's fine.  
That seems a good (i.e. easier and cheaper-to-fix) result.  Opened the 
pedestal, removed the compass, and the shifting mechanism looks fine from the 
top view.  So seems likely that the cable is rusted, perhaps right down near 
where it exits the sheathing and connects to the tranny lever.  Would moving 
the cable around with pliers right where it exits the sheath, perhaps squirting 
with penetrating oil help?  Other suggestions?


Eric


  You have the first step:  disconnect the cable at the lever and see if 
the tx lever moves. 

  Rich


On Apr 27, 2014, at 7:36, Eric Frank  wrote:



Just replaced the PYI dripless "stuffing box" on Cat's Paw, a 35 C&C Mk 
II.  With lots of help from the list last fall, got the old one out and just 
replaced it with a new one last weekend. The re-installation went very smoothly 
and I thought all was well.  But when I fired up the Perkins diesel yesterday 
(still on the hard), the shift lever is stuck in neutral.  I noticed that was 
true last weekend just after the install, but figured the engine needed to be 
running to get it in gear. No banging needed on the prop shaft to drive the 
shaft back into the coupling, so I don't think there was any strain on the 
transmission.  Would like advice about where to look for the jam. In the shift 
lever from the pedestal? In the transmission itself? Maybe disconnect the shift 
cable from the transmission and see if I can then move the shift lever?  Advice 
from the list soon would be greatly appreciated.  Launch date is slated for 
this week, but if the prop shaft has to be disconnected from the tranny to fix 
things, launch needs to be delayed.


Thanks for advice!  Don't know what to try.



Eric



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Re: Stus-List jammed transmission lever

[Don Newman]

Mine broke at the SS threads due to being stiff for a long time resulting in 
fatigue break. The length in inches should be on it. I just got a 22 ft one 
(more expensive version than original Morse) for $80. 
Significantly less resistance than the one for $20 less. 


Don Newman
C&C 44

> On Apr 28, 2014, at 9:27, "Gary Nylander"  wrote:
> 
> Agreed - replace! Not necessarily because it will or has rusted at the 
> threads, but likely that it is rusted inside! Mine rusted and then failed 
> completely - fortunately it was at the dock and I had time to replace it. It 
> jammed down inside of the sheathing (they are made up of a spring-wound flex 
> tube wrapped in plastic or rubber).
>  
> Try your local outboard shop, they often have cables in lots of lengths. Take 
> the old one out and measure carefully.
>  
> Gary
> 30-1
> - Original Message -
> From: Don Newman
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Monday, April 28, 2014 8:33 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List jammed transmission lever
> 
> Replace the cable!!  Based on unpleasant experience a stiff cable will break 
> at the threads at the most inconvenient time. They aren't as expensive as the 
> damage that could be done if it breaks while in gear at the wrong time. 
> 
> Don Newman
> C&C 44
> 
>> On Apr 27, 2014, at 22:49, Eric Frank  wrote:
>> 
>> Did that - clear result.  The lever at the pedestal is still jammed - cable 
>> won't move.  But the transmission is easy to shift even by hand, so it's 
>> fine.  That seems a good (i.e. easier and cheaper-to-fix) result.  Opened 
>> the pedestal, removed the compass, and the shifting mechanism looks fine 
>> from the top view.  So seems likely that the cable is rusted, perhaps right 
>> down near where it exits the sheathing and connects to the tranny lever.  
>> Would moving the cable around with pliers right where it exits the sheath, 
>> perhaps squirting with penetrating oil help?  Other suggestions?
>> 
>> Eric
>> 
>>> You have the first step:  disconnect the cable at the lever and see if the 
>>> tx lever moves. 
>>> 
>>> Rich
>>> 
> On Apr 27, 2014, at 7:36, Eric Frank  wrote:
 Just replaced the PYI dripless "stuffing box" on Cat's Paw, a 35 C&C Mk 
 II.  With lots of help from the list last fall, got the old one out and 
 just replaced it with a new one last weekend. The re-installation went 
 very smoothly and I thought all was well.  But when I fired up the Perkins 
 diesel yesterday (still on the hard), the shift lever is stuck in neutral. 
  I noticed that was true last weekend just after the install, but figured 
 the engine needed to be running to get it in gear. No banging needed on 
 the prop shaft to drive the shaft back into the coupling, so I don't think 
 there was any strain on the transmission.  Would like advice about where 
 to look for the jam. In the shift lever from the pedestal? In the 
 transmission itself? Maybe disconnect the shift cable from the 
 transmission and see if I can then move the shift lever?  Advice from the 
 list soon would be greatly appreciated.  Launch date is slated for this 
 week, but if the prop shaft has to be disconnected from the tranny to fix 
 things, launch needs to be delayed.
 Thanks for advice!  Don't know what to try.
 Eric
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Re: Stus-List A-4 Water Pump Impeller Replacement

[bobmor99 .]

Correction. It's a Moyer Marine, not an Obendorfer pump.
Searched the Moyer forums to no avail and will be contacting Moyer directly.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Sun, Apr 27, 2014 at 9:11 PM, bobmor99 .  wrote:

> This is more of a question for Moyer Marine but there are still some C&Cs
> with A-4s.
> Today I finally got around to replacing the Oberdorfer raw water impeller.
> It's done a yeoman's job for the past 8 years. The replacement impeller
> from Moyer came with a o-ring for the backplate. That fits fine. However,
> the impeller is a "little bit" thinner than the old impeller. Bottom line,
> a pair of upper and lower weep holes, between the engine and the impeller
> cavity leaked a lot with the new impeller. (Not a great description.)  I
> put the old impeller back in and the leaking stopped.
> You can barely see the bottom weep hole in the attached pic.
>
> Thanks in advance for knowledge shared.
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
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Stus-List C&C 30 MK1

[Curtis]

SO, Its time to change the shift cable on my 1981 C&C30 MK1. The cable that
is there now has always been tight and hard to shift. Is there a better
style or different cable to make the shifting easier? I just got back from
the BVI we Where we rented a 36-I and it shifted very nice. I have never
owned a different sail boat and there-fore had nothing to judge by. But now
after a week with great shifting I think its time to change mine out. My
boat has a red cable. my shiftier is on the left of the console and the
throttle is on the right side. The throttle seams fine. Any Suggestions?
Thanks for your help and advice.




-- 
"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
open eyes, to make it possible."

T. E. Lawrence

.
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1

[Rich Knowles]

Take the old cable out, measure it, buy a new one and install it. If you can 
easily measure the length of the existing cable, buy the new one  first so you 
can do the r&r in one session. You have to remove the compass to get at the 
binnacle end. Assuming you have a Ritchie compass, start with the two screws 
holding the black plastic light cover, lift off the stainless housing, and then 
undo the screws holding the compass to the pedestal. The shift lever is then 
accessible. 

Rich

> On Apr 28, 2014, at 12:04, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> SO, Its time to change the shift cable on my 1981 C&C30 MK1. The cable that 
> is there now has always been tight and hard to shift. Is there a better style 
> or different cable to make the shifting easier? I just got back from the BVI 
> we Where we rented a 36-I and it shifted very nice. I have never owned a 
> different sail boat and there-fore had nothing to judge by. But now after a 
> week with great shifting I think its time to change mine out. My boat has a 
> red cable. my shiftier is on the left of the console and the throttle is on 
> the right side. The throttle seams fine. Any Suggestions?
> Thanks for your help and advice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> "All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty 
> recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the 
> dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open 
> eyes, to make it possible."
> 
> T. E. Lawrence
> 
> . 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1

[Al Serrato]

This turned into a very big project on my 1981 '34. I had a metal pedestal that 
needed to be disassembled to get at the cable (which was frayed) and the 
hardware was so badly rusted/frozen that it turned out installing a whole new 
pedestal made more sense. I now have the more modern style shifter and 
throttle, with labels, instead of the up/down metal handles that used to be 
there, so I'm happy with the result (especially ease of use/performance but 
also appearance) but it cost quite a bit more than I was expecting.

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 28, 2014, at 8:04 AM, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> SO, Its time to change the shift cable on my 1981 C&C30 MK1. The cable that 
> is there now has always been tight and hard to shift. Is there a better style 
> or different cable to make the shifting easier? I just got back from the BVI 
> we Where we rented a 36-I and it shifted very nice. I have never owned a 
> different sail boat and there-fore had nothing to judge by. But now after a 
> week with great shifting I think its time to change mine out. My boat has a 
> red cable. my shiftier is on the left of the console and the throttle is on 
> the right side. The throttle seams fine. Any Suggestions?
> Thanks for your help and advice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> "All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty 
> recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the 
> dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open 
> eyes, to make it possible."
> 
> T. E. Lawrence
> 
> . 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1

[Gary Nylander]

It may not be that simple. The machine screws holding my binnacle together 
had welded to the aluminum. It took heat, PB Blaster and an impact 
screwdriver to get it apart so I could get the old cable disconnected. My 
binnacle has the two lever setup like Curtis's. Once that came out, the rest 
was easy and a new cable made things a lot easier. I replace the machine 
screws with bolts and used tuf-gel to hopefully not have the welding problem 
again. However, as the first one lasted 30+ years, it will be up to the next 
owner to make the next change.


I don't have a Ritchie compass and the shift lever and throttle are aft of 
the compass.


Gary
also 30-1
- Original Message - 
From: "Rich Knowles" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2014 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1


Take the old cable out, measure it, buy a new one and install it. If you 
can easily measure the length of the existing cable, buy the new one 
first so you can do the r&r in one session. You have to remove the compass 
to get at the binnacle end. Assuming you have a Ritchie compass, start 
with the two screws holding the black plastic light cover, lift off the 
stainless housing, and then undo the screws holding the compass to the 
pedestal. The shift lever is then accessible.


Rich


On Apr 28, 2014, at 12:04, Curtis  wrote:

SO, Its time to change the shift cable on my 1981 C&C30 MK1. The cable 
that is there now has always been tight and hard to shift. Is there a 
better style or different cable to make the shifting easier? I just got 
back from the BVI we Where we rented a 36-I and it shifted very nice. I 
have never owned a different sail boat and there-fore had nothing to 
judge by. But now after a week with great shifting I think its time to 
change mine out. My boat has a red cable. my shiftier is on the left of 
the console and the throttle is on the right side. The throttle seams 
fine. Any Suggestions?

Thanks for your help and advice.




--
"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty 
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the 
dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with 
open eyes, to make it possible."


T. E. Lawrence

.



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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 99, Issue 110

[Michael Brown]

I just finish the major winter project on Windburn last Thursday, which was 
good since launch was Saturday.
Part of it was replacing the transmission cable which was stiff for years but 
became very stiff last summer.

Windburn is a C&C 30-1 with the Atomic 4 ( Stevedore ) engine and the Paragon 
transmission. The forces
shifting the Paragon transmission are high due to the design, which use two 
clutches on a constantly engaged
planetary gear hub.

I replaced the cable with a Teleflex 6400 TFX Extreme P/N CCX64008, which is 
available from West Marine:

http://www.westmarine.com/teleflex--tfxtreme-6400-bc-performance-cables--P006_184_002_017

In my application I needed the CC cable, takes clamps on both ends, rather then 
the BC cable which is a
bulkhead mount on one end. There does seem to be some confusion between the two 
parts online.

Some notes:

1) I removed the old cable in sub-freezing temperatures, was akin to wrestling 
re-bar with a sword on each
end in a confined space with many hard edges.
2) To get the correct adjustment on the new cable wrap some tape just behind 
the jam nuts on the end of the
old cable. When you have the new cable set the jam nuts at the same distance.
3) If you have an Edson Pedestal and a clamp that has an approximate 10" flat 
bar affixing the cable inside the
pedestal guard tube treat it with care. It appears to be a custom part and I 
could not find a replacement for it.
4) After thawing out the old cable I clamped it vertically, put a vice grip on 
the jam nut and was able to lift
myself without moving the cable. Although the Teleflex instructions say to not 
lubricate the cable I did use
a pool of penetrating oil at both ends for about a month. Made no difference.
5) After installation I aligned the cable under the cockpit sole for the 
gentlest and largest diameter radius I
could. Now it shifts into forward with a firm finger press on the end of the 
shift lever.
6) You may find the transmission does not "stick" in reverse even if you pull 
hard. That may be the way it
works if the cable and shifter are very friction free. The forward works by 
pulling a cone back along the output
shaft that forces three fingers outwards, and in turn engages the forward 
clutch. That seems to stay put.
Reverse  is a band clutch that is tightened by sliding a wedge of metal causing 
a bolt to ride up on the ramp.

This shows the working parts:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4CCzYqctv0

There is no adjustment to make reverse stick in gear. There are adjustments if 
reverse will not engage or
neutral is too narrow of a position on the shift cable.
7) On Windburn the small screw that holds the pedestal end cable clamp in place 
needed to be an exact
length. If the screw protrudes threw the clamp it will interfere with the 
clevis or cable end.
8) On a warm day with no frozen parts I think both the throttle and 
transmission cables could be replaced
in under four hours by one person, maybe as few as two hours.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


 
  



Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2014 06:54:54 -0300 
From: Rich Knowles  
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List jammed transmission lever 
Message-ID: <43244ec0-fa31-4bb1-a74d-72aaf4723...@sailpower.ca> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 
 
Pour penetrating oil down the cable interior and let it set for a day. Also 
look for a small u-bolt clamp on the cable that is often used to prevent 
throttle slippage. If there is one, try loosening it. Best solution is to 
replace the cable. Yours is likely 30 or so years old and a bit tired.  
 
Rich 
 
> On Apr 27, 2014, at 23:49, Eric Frank  wrote: 
>  
> Did that - clear result.  The lever at the pedestal is still jammed - cable 
> won't move.  But the transmission is easy to shift even by hand, so it's 
> fine.  That seems a good (i.e. easier and cheaper-to-fix) result.  Opened the 
> pedestal, removed the compass, and the shifting mechanism looks fine from the 
> top view.  So seems likely that the cable is rusted, perhaps right down near 
> where it exits the sheathing and connects to the tranny lever.  Would moving 
> the cable around with pliers right where it exits the sheath, perhaps 
> squirting with penetrating oil help?  Other suggestions? 
>  
> Eric 
>  
>> You have the first step:  disconnect the cable at the lever and see if the 
>> tx lever moves.  
>>  
>> Rich 
>>  
>>> On Apr 27, 2014, at 7:36, Eric Frank  wrote: 
>>>  
>>> Just replaced the PYI dripless "stuffing box" on Cat's Paw, a 35 C&C Mk II. 
>>>  With lots of help from the list last fall, got the old one out and just 
>>> replaced it with a new one last weekend. The re-installation went very 
>>> smoothly and I thought all was well.  But when I fired up the Perkins 
>>> diesel yesterday (still on the hard), the shift lever is stuck in neutral.  
>>> I noticed that was true last weekend just after the install, but figured 
>>> the engine needed to be running to get it in gear. No banging needed on the 
>

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1

[Curtis]

I do have the Ritche style stand I have all ready had it apart one
time to lube the chane on the steering as a maintenance item.

On 4/28/14, Gary Nylander  wrote:
> It may not be that simple. The machine screws holding my binnacle together
> had welded to the aluminum. It took heat, PB Blaster and an impact
> screwdriver to get it apart so I could get the old cable disconnected. My
> binnacle has the two lever setup like Curtis's. Once that came out, the rest
>
> was easy and a new cable made things a lot easier. I replace the machine
> screws with bolts and used tuf-gel to hopefully not have the welding problem
>
> again. However, as the first one lasted 30+ years, it will be up to the next
>
> owner to make the next change.
>
> I don't have a Ritchie compass and the shift lever and throttle are aft of
> the compass.
>
> Gary
> also 30-1
> - Original Message -
> From: "Rich Knowles" 
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, April 28, 2014 11:21 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1
>
>
>> Take the old cable out, measure it, buy a new one and install it. If you
>> can easily measure the length of the existing cable, buy the new one
>> first so you can do the r&r in one session. You have to remove the compass
>>
>> to get at the binnacle end. Assuming you have a Ritchie compass, start
>> with the two screws holding the black plastic light cover, lift off the
>> stainless housing, and then undo the screws holding the compass to the
>> pedestal. The shift lever is then accessible.
>>
>> Rich
>>
>>> On Apr 28, 2014, at 12:04, Curtis  wrote:
>>>
>>> SO, Its time to change the shift cable on my 1981 C&C30 MK1. The cable
>>> that is there now has always been tight and hard to shift. Is there a
>>> better style or different cable to make the shifting easier? I just got
>>> back from the BVI we Where we rented a 36-I and it shifted very nice. I
>>> have never owned a different sail boat and there-fore had nothing to
>>> judge by. But now after a week with great shifting I think its time to
>>> change mine out. My boat has a red cable. my shiftier is on the left of
>>> the console and the throttle is on the right side. The throttle seams
>>> fine. Any Suggestions?
>>> Thanks for your help and advice.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> "All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
>>> recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
>>>
>>> dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
>>>
>>> open eyes, to make it possible."
>>>
>>> T. E. Lawrence
>>>
>>> .
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>> ___
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>
>
>
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-- 
"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but
the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their
dreams with open eyes, to make it possible."

T. E. Lawrence

.

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Stus-List Spinnaker sheets for LF 38

[Daniel Sheer]

Advice on diameter material and length appreciated for spinnaker sheets on an 
LF38.

Thanks


Dan Shee
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1

[Josh Muckley]

Do both cables, throttle and shift.  You will likely have to unmount the
pedistal to feed the cable anyway and once is better than having to do it
again in a few years.  There may also be other hardware that needs worked
so be prepared.

West Marine sells teleflex cables.  They have a base model and an premium.
I didn't want to do it again so I got the premium.  Premium also offered a
tighter bend radius.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 28, 2014 11:05 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:

> SO, Its time to change the shift cable on my 1981 C&C30 MK1. The cable
> that is there now has always been tight and hard to shift. Is there a
> better style or different cable to make the shifting easier? I just got
> back from the BVI we Where we rented a 36-I and it shifted very nice. I
> have never owned a different sail boat and there-fore had nothing to judge
> by. But now after a week with great shifting I think its time to change
> mine out. My boat has a red cable. my shiftier is on the left of the
> console and the throttle is on the right side. The throttle seams fine. Any
> Suggestions?
> Thanks for your help and advice.
>
>
>
>
> --
> "All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
> recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
> dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
> open eyes, to make it possible."
>
> T. E. Lawrence
>
> .
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Stus-List Smartphone becomes VHF

[Bill Coleman]

Smartphone innovations never cease to amaze me . . .

 

http://www.irishexaminer.com/ireland/students-invention-outsmarts-smartphone
s-while-at-sea-266110.html

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

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Stus-List Battery options

[cenelson]

My Lifeline deep cycle size 31 battery has died after +7 years of use as a 
starting battery. 


I do not cruise, except occasional (mostly motor) trips to different local (< 
25 miles) racing venues. Thus I only carry one
battery in the interests of both weight and use.


Since it died the morning of the first day of a 2 day regatta, I got a size 27 
from Advance Auto just to reduce the drama of the tow or sailing
out/into the slip--although we did that on the return to the slip-had to put 
her in bow-to since sailing backwards is above my skill set!


Anyhow, for how I use the boat, I would appreciate ideas on the battery to buy. 
BTW, I never leave AC power to the boat on 
when I am not on board. 


I use a Zantrex 40 battery charger when plugged in to shore power(and aboard) 
and am thinking of adding a simple solar panel to keep the battery
topped off between race days.


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb



cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1

[Wally Bryant]

I dunno, but red cables tend to be Morse cables.

I was once told that Volvo/Penta actually made good 'pre-measured' 
cables as well.  I scoffed at the time, but trusted the guy and replaced 
my throttle/tranny cables with those.  Note, I am not endorsing 
Volvo-Penta engines, just the cables.  Those cables have sustained some 
hard abuse.


Only Morse made a cable that would work for my engine kill cable. The 
cable hasn't failed but the knob fell off due to corrosion between the 
knob and the bolt.  I will leave the jokes to those who come after me.  
(Sorry, I'm sitting on the hook watching Stargate reruns and have lost 
my planet.  I need to get home to Earth, where they make tequila.)


Wal

Curtis wrote:

My
boat has a red cable.




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Re: Stus-List Battery options

[John Pennie]

Charlie:

Lots of open questions there but a single group 31 does seem a bit small for a 
34/36.  Certainly enough reserve to run electronics for a day of racing so long 
as there is no refrigeration involved.  If the group 31 worked for you just 
pick up any similar sized battery.  Sears or Walmart is fine. With a single 
cell I don’t know that I wold even mess around with AGM’s - just pull the one 
battery off every winter.  Heck, there isn’t that much difference between a 27 
& a 31.  If you’re thinking about upgrading, you may want to provide a few more 
details.

John

On Apr 28, 2014, at 6:31 PM, cenel...@aol.com wrote:

> My Lifeline deep cycle size 31 battery has died after +7 years of use as a 
> starting battery. 
> 
> I do not cruise, except occasional (mostly motor) trips to different local (< 
> 25 miles) racing venues. Thus I only carry one
> battery in the interests of both weight and use.
> 
> Since it died the morning of the first day of a 2 day regatta, I got a size 
> 27 from Advance Auto just to reduce the drama of the tow or sailing
> out/into the slip--although we did that on the return to the slip-had to put 
> her in bow-to since sailing backwards is above my skill set!
> 
> Anyhow, for how I use the boat, I would appreciate ideas on the battery to 
> buy. BTW, I never leave AC power to the boat on 
> when I am not on board. 
> 
> I use a Zantrex 40 battery charger when plugged in to shore power(and aboard) 
> and am thinking of adding a simple solar panel to keep the battery
> topped off between race days.
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C&C 36 XL/kcb
> 
> 
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Tacktick wireless interface and iRegatta

[Joel Aronson]

David,

Used iRegatta for 16 hours.  Ran a USB cable up the hatch along the cabin
top to keep it charged.  I had the iphone in a RockMount with a baggie over
it.  We sailed through thunderstorms and rain.  The baggie was essential.
 A waterproof pouch has been ordered.

It seems to show the course as true, not magnetic, so there was an 11
degree discrepancy between it and the plotter.  When giving someone a
heading we needed to be clear which heading it was.  I did not have it
receiving wind over wifi, so it did not show shifts.

It was great being able to look forward, not down to see heading speed and
VMG, and made it possible for the crew to alert the helmsman if he was off
course.  It is very different steering a heading without landmarks or at
night, so we all really liked it.  The numbers were large enough to be seen
from the cockpit with the phone about under the vang, but a 7 inch tablet
would be a luxury.

Short answer: I will not race without it or the equivalent!

Joel

On Friday, April 25, 2014, David Knecht  wrote:

> I will be very curious to hear what you think.  I am particularly
> interested in VMG and shift detection (especially when the boat is actually
> in the water).  Dave
>
> On Apr 25, 2014, at 1:01 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>
> David,
>
> I have the wind system without the T122 also.  You are correct that the
> only way to get the tackTick data out to NMEA is to buy the T122. I keep
> hoping for an upgrade to NMEA 2000, but there is no sign of it from Ray.
>  Just my opinion, but one wind readout is enough.
>
> I'm going to try iRegatta this weekend on my phone to give me speed,
> heading and VMG in addition to the E7 and IPad,  I'm putting it forward of
> the traveler so the crew can hopefully see it.  I've run a long charging
> cable.
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 25, 2014 at 12:38 AM, Frank  wrote:
>
>   David,
>
> I have been thinking about the same thing.  Try NavMonPC  (
> http://www.navmonpc.com/).  I run the Tack Tick NMEA out to my computer
> and into NavMonPC.  There is an AP for Android tablets that will allow
> Windows computers to be controlled using the Android Tablet.  Also, I think
> you could route the output of NavMonPC NMEA out to a wireless router and to
> any other computer/tablet on board.  I’m sure that there are some IT types
> that can take it from here.
>
> Frank Noragon
> S/V Cool Change
> C&C 38 LF, S/N 001
> Rose City Yacht Club
> Portland, Oregon
>
>  *From:* David Knecht
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 24, 2014 2:18 PM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Tacktick wireless interface and iRegatta
>
> Thanks Fred- That extra $400 takes it from a not too expensive experiment
> to one I have to think about whether it is justified by the budget.  Too
> bad.  I can put the iPad at the helm station for navigation for very little
> cost, so I guess I will start with that.  It seems like it should not be
> too long before the entire boat is wirelessly integrated with a standard
> router.  Dave
>
>  On Apr 24, 2014, at 4:55 PM, Frederick G Street 
> wrote:
>
>  Dave — the only way to get from Micronet/TackTick to wired NMEA0183 is
> the T122, as far as I know.  And that’s what you’ll need to get to WiFi,
> via a box from the likes of iSteer, Digital Yacht or Comar.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>  On Apr 24, 2014, at 3:08 PM, David Knecht  wrote:
>
>  I installed a TackTick wireless wind sensor on the mast last year and a
> receiver at the
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Battery options

[Dennis C.]

I swear by Delco Voyager batteries.  They are a pain to procure but I think
they're the best bang for the buck.  I have 2 Series 30's on Touche' with a
Xantrex 20+ charger (one of the old ones).  I typically replace after 5-6
years but they seem to be going strong at replacement.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Mon, Apr 28, 2014 at 6:19 PM, John Pennie  wrote:

> Charlie:
>
> Lots of open questions there but a single group 31 does seem a bit small
> for a 34/36.  Certainly enough reserve to run electronics for a day of
> racing so long as there is no refrigeration involved.  If the group 31
> worked for you just pick up any similar sized battery.  Sears or Walmart is
> fine. With a single cell I don’t know that I wold even mess around with
> AGM’s - just pull the one battery off every winter.  Heck, there isn’t that
> much difference between a 27 & a 31.  If you’re thinking about upgrading,
> you may want to provide a few more details.
>
> John
>
> On Apr 28, 2014, at 6:31 PM, cenel...@aol.com wrote:
>
> My Lifeline deep cycle size 31 battery has died after +7 years of use as a
> starting battery.
>
>  I do not cruise, except occasional (mostly motor) trips to different
> local (< 25 miles) racing venues. Thus I only carry one
> battery in the interests of both weight and use.
>
>  Since it died the morning of the first day of a 2 day regatta, I got a
> size 27 from Advance Auto just to reduce the drama of the tow or sailing
> out/into the slip--although we did that on the return to the slip-had to
> put her in bow-to since sailing backwards is above my skill set!
>
>  Anyhow, for how I use the boat, I would appreciate ideas on the battery
> to buy. BTW, I never leave AC power to the boat on
> when I am not on board.
>
>  I use a Zantrex 40 battery charger when plugged in to shore power(and
> aboard) and am thinking of adding a simple solar panel to keep the battery
> topped off between race days.
>
>  Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C&C 36 XL/kcb
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>  ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery options

[Wally Bryant]

I sweat by Trojans.  Okay, pulling the plug

you wrote:

I swear by Delco Voyager batteries



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Stus-List Battery options

[Robert Abbott]

Charlie:

We use Great Northern Batteries, Group 27's..current ones are 7 
years oldalways leave them on the boat over the winterchecked 
them last week...one was 12.63 V the other was 12.61V.  Each battery 
weighs 55 lbs.


Even though you don't cruise,  mostly a racer, I would still have a 
second battery on your boat.  With the displacement of your boat, I 
doubt 50 to 60 lbs. would make that much of a difference in your racing 
but would give you more security for you boat and crew.  If the extra 
weight of a battery makes that much of a difference, clean your boat out 
and find 60 lbs. of stuff you do not need to carry around the race 
coursee.g take 6 gallons of water and/or fuel off the boat.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On Apr 28, 2014, at 6:31 PM, cenel...@aol.com
 wrote:


My Lifeline deep cycle size 31 battery has died after +7 years of
use as a starting battery.

I do not cruise, except occasional (mostly motor) trips to
different local (< 25 miles) racing venues. Thus I only carry one
battery in the interests of both weight and use.

Since it died the morning of the first day of a 2 day regatta, I
got a size 27 from Advance Auto just to reduce the drama of the
tow or sailing
out/into the slip--although we did that on the return to the
slip-had to put her in bow-to since sailing backwards is above my
skill set!

Anyhow, for how I use the boat, I would appreciate ideas on the
battery to buy. BTW, I never leave AC power to the boat on
when I am not on board.

I use a Zantrex 40 battery charger when plugged in to shore
power(and aboard) and am thinking of adding a simple solar panel
to keep the battery
topped off between race days.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb



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Re: Stus-List Battery options

[Joel Aronson]

But which batteries?

On Monday, April 28, 2014, Wally Bryant  wrote:

> I sweat by Trojans.  Okay, pulling the plug
>
> you wrote:
>
>> I swear by Delco Voyager batteries
>>
>
>
> ___
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>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Battery options

[Joe Della Barba]

Sam’s Club has AGM Group 31s for about $170. They are East Penn-Deka batteries, 
same as West but half the price.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List Battery options

[John Pennie]

Just to point out one basic we all missed - If you’re going to go with just one 
battery, make sure its a dual purpose or deep cycle. The grp27 you picked up to 
get you by may be a starting battery.   I won’t go near the Trojan discussion.  

John

On Apr 28, 2014, at 8:28 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> But which batteries?
> 
> On Monday, April 28, 2014, Wally Bryant  wrote:
> I sweat by Trojans.  Okay, pulling the plug
> 
> you wrote:
> I swear by Delco Voyager batteries
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1

[Curtis]

I have three one for throttle one for the kill and one for shift.



On Mon, Apr 28, 2014 at 7:03 PM, Wally Bryant  wrote:

> I dunno, but red cables tend to be Morse cables.
>
> I was once told that Volvo/Penta actually made good 'pre-measured' cables
> as well.  I scoffed at the time, but trusted the guy and replaced my
> throttle/tranny cables with those.  Note, I am not endorsing Volvo-Penta
> engines, just the cables.  Those cables have sustained some hard abuse.
>
> Only Morse made a cable that would work for my engine kill cable. The
> cable hasn't failed but the knob fell off due to corrosion between the knob
> and the bolt.  I will leave the jokes to those who come after me.  (Sorry,
> I'm sitting on the hook watching Stargate reruns and have lost my planet.
>  I need to get home to Earth, where they make tequila.)
>
> Wal
>
>
> Curtis wrote:
>
>> My
>> boat has a red cable.
>>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
open eyes, to make it possible."

T. E. Lawrence

.
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Re: Stus-List Battery options

[Rich Knowles]

Seems to me that you might as well continue doing whatever has worked for the 
last 7 years with one exception:

Change the battery after 6 years to avoid disaster and embarrassment. 

Rich

> On Apr 28, 2014, at 19:31, cenel...@aol.com wrote:
> 
> My Lifeline deep cycle size 31 battery has died after +7 years of use as a 
> starting battery. 
> 
> I do not cruise, except occasional (mostly motor) trips to different local (< 
> 25 miles) racing venues. Thus I only carry one
> battery in the interests of both weight and use.
> 
> Since it died the morning of the first day of a 2 day regatta, I got a size 
> 27 from Advance Auto just to reduce the drama of the tow or sailing
> out/into the slip--although we did that on the return to the slip-had to put 
> her in bow-to since sailing backwards is above my skill set!
> 
> Anyhow, for how I use the boat, I would appreciate ideas on the battery to 
> buy. BTW, I never leave AC power to the boat on 
> when I am not on board. 
> 
> I use a Zantrex 40 battery charger when plugged in to shore power(and aboard) 
> and am thinking of adding a simple solar panel to keep the battery
> topped off between race days.
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C&C 36 XL/kcb
> 
> 
> cenel...@aol.com
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Stus-List Prop Options

[Robert Abbott]

Short video on the various options for folding props..may be of 
interest to someFYI


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4xwJkUfU6o


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Battery options

[Marek Dziedzic]

I had very good experience with deep cycle batteries from Costco – provided you 
can find a direct replacement. Someone who knows may chime in to say who makes 
them (obviously not Costco or Kirkwood).

 

Marek (in Ottawa)

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2014 7:40 PM
To: CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery options

 

I swear by Delco Voyager batteries.  They are a pain to procure but I think 
they're the best bang for the buck.  I have 2 Series 30's on Touche' with a 
Xantrex 20+ charger (one of the old ones).  I typically replace after 5-6 years 
but they seem to be going strong at replacement.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Mon, Apr 28, 2014 at 6:19 PM, John Pennie  wrote:

Charlie:

 

Lots of open questions there but a single group 31 does seem a bit small for a 
34/36.  Certainly enough reserve to run electronics for a day of racing so long 
as there is no refrigeration involved.  If the group 31 worked for you just 
pick up any similar sized battery.  Sears or Walmart is fine. With a single 
cell I don’t know that I wold even mess around with AGM’s - just pull the one 
battery off every winter.  Heck, there isn’t that much difference between a 27 
& a 31.  If you’re thinking about upgrading, you may want to provide a few more 
details.

 

John

 

On Apr 28, 2014, at 6:31 PM, cenel...@aol.com wrote:





My Lifeline deep cycle size 31 battery has died after +7 years of use as a 
starting battery.  

 

I do not cruise, except occasional (mostly motor) trips to different local (< 
25 miles) racing venues. Thus I only carry one

battery in the interests of both weight and use.

 

Since it died the morning of the first day of a 2 day regatta, I got a size 27 
from Advance Auto just to reduce the drama of the tow or sailing

out/into the slip--although we did that on the return to the slip-had to put 
her in bow-to since sailing backwards is above my skill set!

 

Anyhow, for how I use the boat, I would appreciate ideas on the battery to buy. 
BTW, I never leave AC power to the boat on 

when I am not on board. 

 

I use a Zantrex 40 battery charger when plugged in to shore power(and aboard) 
and am thinking of adding a simple solar panel to keep the battery

topped off between race days.

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C&C 36 XL/kcb

 

cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List Battery options

[Marek Dziedzic]

If you want to have just one battery an AGM might be a good option. Keep in
mind that they are much more sensitive to how you charge them and they hate
not be fully charged after each cycle (which is usually a problem, unless
you have solar or shore power).

 

Marek (in Ottawa)

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
Pennie
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2014 8:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery options

 

Just to point out one basic we all missed - If you're going to go with just
one battery, make sure its a dual purpose or deep cycle. The grp27 you
picked up to get you by may be a starting battery.   I won't go near the
Trojan discussion.  

 

John

 

On Apr 28, 2014, at 8:28 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:





But which batteries?

On Monday, April 28, 2014, Wally Bryant  wrote:

I sweat by Trojans.  Okay, pulling the plug

you wrote:

I swear by Delco Voyager batteries



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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Prop Options

[Kevin Driscoll]

Link to article pdf: http://www.flexofold.com/test-results/

Video has no information except visuals.

Sent from a mobile device.
On Apr 28, 2014 6:26 PM, "Robert Abbott"  wrote:

> Short video on the various options for folding props..may be of
> interest to someFYI
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4xwJkUfU6o
>
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
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