Re: Stus-List Out haul replacement

[Joel Aronson]

Dwight

Sounds like my system!  How did you get the the becket where the line
attaches?

On Saturday, March 22, 2014, dwight  wrote:

>  Joel
>
>
>
> If your internal outhaul rig is anything like mine there is a becket on
> each block, and it will probably be rigged similar to the Harken 5:1
> internal outhaul shown here:
>
>
>
> http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3910
>
>
>
> The becket on the after block has a ss wire attached and that wire gets
> shackled fast to the clew outhaul cringle on the main sail.  I changed the
> line on the internal outhaul on my 35 MKII a few years back, used 3/8 inch
> low stretch braid.  That line now exits bottom of boom just aft of
> gooseneck and from there to a turning block at base of mast and then
> through deck organizer to Lewmar clutch and winch on cabin top beside
> companionway.  Before I led the clew outhaul control line to the cockpit it
> exited stbd side of boom, about 3 feet aft of gooseneck and was tensioned
> with a winch (#10 low rise Barient I think) and secured with a cam cleat.
> I no longer carry a winch handle at the mast because all lines are lead aft
> except spin Halyard(s). My boat came to me setup with a winch on the mast
> for the clew outhaul adjustment a 4 larger barient winches, 2 on either
> side outboard of the mast and associated cleats because initially all
>  halyards were also controlled with those winches.  Now the halyards are
> controlled with cabin top winches and Lewmar clutches at the companionway,
> which I like because it keeps me in the safety of the cockpit and they are
> easier to adjust on the fly.
>
>
>  --
>
> *From:* CnC-List 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
> *On Behalf Of *Joel Aronson
> *Sent:* March 22, 2014 5:45 PM
> *To:* 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Out haul replacement
>
>
>
> I'm guessing there is a becket on one of the blocks. Hoping someone knows
> for sure.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
> 35/3
>
> On Saturday, March 22, 2014, Jake Brodersen 
> >
> wrote:
>
> Joel,
>
>
>
> Mine is a direct line that is lead from the boom to a winch.  My Hunter
> had a block and tackle and it was anchored just inside the forward end of
> the boom.  The 4:1 purchase really worked well.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Aronson
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 22, 2014 1:22 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Out haul replacement
>
>
>
> I want to replace the line on my outhaul. There is an internal block and
> tackle. I assumed the line was a wire to rope splice. It turns out that the
> wire is attached to the back of the block and tackle and the line
> is independent. Does anyone have any idea where the end of the line is
> inside the boom?
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

[Joel Aronson]

If there is an acorn but on the aft side of the pedestal knee high that
holds a clap for the cables.

Joel

On Sunday, March 23, 2014, Martin "Mac" McKenzie 
wrote:

> HI all,
>
> I have a stiff shift cable on my C&C. I have the separate shift and
> throttle on either side of the pedestal guard not on the pedestal itself.
> The cable runs up the stainless tube. Has any one ever tried to replace
> this cable?
>
> I cannot figure out how the cable is attached inside the tube. I have
> disconnected the shift lever so the cable is free at that end. There is no
> way I can pull the cable out from underneath.
>
> I know it's the cable that is stiff and not the linkages or transmission.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Mac
> Worthy Pearl
> 1983 C&C 37
>


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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Out haul replacement

[dwight]

Joel

 

That's why I did not jump in immediately after I read your question because
I can not exactly remember where everything attaches but I did the clew
outhaul line replacement and it was not a difficult job and the system is
like that Harken sytsem.mine has metal blocks and they are not micro blocks.
I tied tracer lines to everything and pulled the entire setup out the open
aft end of the boom to install the new line.  And to correct my earlier
post, the low rise winch that was used to control the clew out haul was
actually on the side of the boom (not the mast) and that winch and its line
cleat are still on the boom but never used.  

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: March 23, 2014 6:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Out haul replacement

 

Dwight

 

Sounds like my system!  How did you get the the becket where the line
attaches?

On Saturday, March 22, 2014, dwight  wrote:

Joel 

 

If your internal outhaul rig is anything like mine there is a becket on each
block, and it will probably be rigged similar to the Harken 5:1 internal
outhaul shown here:

 

http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3910

 

The becket on the after block has a ss wire attached and that wire gets
shackled fast to the clew outhaul cringle on the main sail.  I changed the
line on the internal outhaul on my 35 MKII a few years back, used 3/8 inch
low stretch braid.  That line now exits bottom of boom just aft of gooseneck
and from there to a turning block at base of mast and then through deck
organizer to Lewmar clutch and winch on cabin top beside companionway.
Before I led the clew outhaul control line to the cockpit it exited stbd
side of boom, about 3 feet aft of gooseneck and was tensioned with a winch
(#10 low rise Barient I think) and secured with a cam cleat.  I no longer
carry a winch handle at the mast because all lines are lead aft except spin
Halyard(s). My boat came to me setup with a winch on the mast for the clew
outhaul adjustment a 4 larger barient winches, 2 on either side outboard of
the mast and associated cleats because initially all  halyards were also
controlled with those winches.  Now the halyards are controlled with cabin
top winches and Lewmar clutches at the companionway, which I like because it
keeps me in the safety of the cockpit and they are easier to adjust on the
fly.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
 ] On Behalf
Of Joel Aronson
Sent: March 22, 2014 5:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Out haul replacement

 

I'm guessing there is a becket on one of the blocks. Hoping someone knows
for sure. 

 

Joel

35/3

On Saturday, March 22, 2014, Jake Brodersen  > wrote:

Joel,

 

Mine is a direct line that is lead from the boom to a winch.  My Hunter had
a block and tackle and it was anchored just inside the forward end of the
boom.  The 4:1 purchase really worked well.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2014 1:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Out haul replacement

 

I want to replace the line on my outhaul. There is an internal block and
tackle. I assumed the line was a wire to rope splice. It turns out that the
wire is attached to the back of the block and tackle and the line is
independent. Does anyone have any idea where the end of the line is inside
the boom?

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion

[Tony Wroblewski]

Has anyone on the list used the Actisense NGW-1 for a bridge to connect older 
0183 instruments to a 2000 network.  The plan is to use a B&G 390 system (NMEA 
0183 v. 1.5) to feed wind, speed, depth and heading data to B&G Zeus Touch on 
the 2000 bus. 

The other alternative is to use a Tinley 0183 New2Old converter,.  Same 
question.  Has anyone done this. I'm told the Tinley will convert a ver. 1.5 to 
ver. 3.0 and the Zeus can also take a ver. 3.0 input.

Tony
Triumph
C&C 41 '86 c/b
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Re: Stus-List Out haul replacement

[Joel Aronson]

Dwight, Thanks.I have Schaefer blocks in there.  I'll have to see if I
can pull everything below the sheave box at the end of the boom.  The hunt
continues!

On Sunday, March 23, 2014, dwight  wrote:

>  Joel
>
>
>
> That's why I did not jump in immediately after I read your question
> because I can not exactly remember where everything attaches but I did the
> clew outhaul line replacement and it was not a difficult job and the system
> is like that Harken sytsem...mine has metal blocks and they are not micro
> blocks.  I tied tracer lines to everything and pulled the entire setup out
> the open aft end of the boom to install the new line.  And to correct my
> earlier post, the low rise winch that was used to control the clew out haul
> was actually on the side of the boom (not the mast) and that winch and its
> line cleat are still on the boom but never used.
>  --
>
> *From:* CnC-List 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
> *On Behalf Of *Joel Aronson
> *Sent:* March 23, 2014 6:28 AM
> *To:* 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Out haul replacement
>
>
>
> Dwight
>
>
>
> Sounds like my system!  How did you get the the becket where the line
> attaches?
>
> On Saturday, March 22, 2014, dwight  wrote:
>
> Joel
>
>
>
> If your internal outhaul rig is anything like mine there is a becket on
> each block, and it will probably be rigged similar to the Harken 5:1
> internal outhaul shown here:
>
>
>
> http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3910
>
>
>
> The becket on the after block has a ss wire attached and that wire gets
> shackled fast to the clew outhaul cringle on the main sail.  I changed the
> line on the internal outhaul on my 35 MKII a few years back, used 3/8 inch
> low stretch braid.  That line now exits bottom of boom just aft of
> gooseneck and from there to a turning block at base of mast and then
> through deck organizer to Lewmar clutch and winch on cabin top beside
> companionway.  Before I led the clew outhaul control line to the cockpit it
> exited stbd side of boom, about 3 feet aft of gooseneck and was tensioned
> with a winch (#10 low rise Barient I think) and secured with a cam cleat.
> I no longer carry a winch handle at the mast because all lines are lead aft
> except spin Halyard(s). My boat came to me setup with a winch on the mast
> for the clew outhaul adjustment a 4 larger barient winches, 2 on either
> side outboard of the mast and associated cleats because initially all
>  halyards were also controlled with those winches.  Now the halyards are
> controlled with cabin top winches and Lewmar clutches at the companionway,
> which I like because it keeps me in the safety of the cockpit and they are
> easier to adjust on the fly.
>
>
>   --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Aronson
> *Sent:* March 22, 2014 5:45 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Out haul replacement
>
>
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[David Knecht]

I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT


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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Rich Knowles]

Check this out:

http://www.westmarine.com/jabsco--impeller-puller-tools--P011_335_003_502

Rich

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:49, David Knecht  wrote:
> 
> I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
> removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove 
> it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space 
> between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I 
> could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I 
> bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> 
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[dwight]

David

 

What water pump.  I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to
be very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the
impellor drive shaft out altogether.if I do that the job of impellor
replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove
it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space
between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I
could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one
I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Bill Connon]

Rich Knowles wrote:

Check this out:

http://www.westmarine.com/jabsco--impeller-puller-tools--P011_335_003_502

Rich

On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:49, David Knecht > wrote:


I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and 
difficulty removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear 
puller to remove it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that 
there was very little space between the back of the impeller and the 
housing of the water pump, so I could not get the arms of the puller 
to grab anything.  The arms on the one I bought are quite thick.  Do 
I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave



David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

The Jabsco puller is a fine tool but a bit pricey for a job that you 
don't do too often. I got away with using a pair of needle nose vice 
grips.


Bill
Caprice 1




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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Joel Aronson]

Bay Shore Marine in Annapolis makes an impeller puller.  It ;looks like a
bent hemostat.  I've also used needle nosed pliers.

Joel

On Sunday, March 23, 2014, Bill Connon  wrote:

> Rich Knowles wrote:
>
>> Check this out:
>>
>> http://www.westmarine.com/jabsco--impeller-puller-tools--P011_335_003_502
>>
>> Rich
>>
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:49, David Knecht > davidakne...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>  I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and
>>> difficulty removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller
>>> to remove it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very
>>> little space between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water
>>> pump, so I could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms
>>> on the one I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks-
>>> Dave
>>>
>>>
>>> David Knecht
>>> Aries
>>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>>
>>> The Jabsco puller is a fine tool but a bit pricey for a job that you
>>> don't do too often. I got away with using a pair of needle nose vice grips.
>>>
>>
> Bill
> Caprice 1
>
>>
>>>
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>


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301 541 8551
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Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

[Robert Abbott]

Bob's 'personal performance guarantee' goes like this"if it doesn't 
work for you, try something else".


I am willing to bet this stuff is no different than any regular anti 
fouling bottom paint..they just suck us in by putting it in an 
aresol spray can.


So who is going to be the first to paint their prop and SS shaft with 
antifouling paint and report back in the Fall?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2014/03/22 9:11 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:

It is gold!  I was at work today and looked at the stuff when I saw Bob's note. 
A small can is $20, likely enough to do a prop and shaft and a transducer or 
two. Each can we sell is personally autographed by Bob Abbott and comes with 
his personal performance guarantee. I'm not sure what he does if it doesn't 
work...

Rich


On Mar 22, 2014, at 19:36, Graham Collins  wrote:

Are you sure it was the paint?  I thought you also distracted Rich when he was doing his 
"re-direct the mussels" dance on the end of the wharf, word is that you gave 
him enough rum that the mussels ended up in Grand Lake infesting the Tanzer 22 fleet 
there...

But seriously, how do you move a "6 ox." can, do you need a trailer? :-)

I have a new transducer to install, I will have to investigate this stuff.  I'm 
sure the Binnacle has it priced as if it is gold...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11


On 2014-03-22 4:36 PM, Robert Abbott wrote:
This time last year,  I was considering painting my prop and SS shaft with my 
bottom anti-fouling paint, Micron 66, to try to minimize mussel growth.

Instead, I used a product I found at the Binnacle called "Aquagard Transducer 
Paint"a 6 ox. spay can.label says it is good for nylon and bronze 
transducers.apply 2 coats.

On haulout last Fall, the prop and SS shaft was cleana few barnacles on the 
prop but no mussels..and there was no sign of the 'spray paint' .you 
could not tell that the prop and shaft were painted.

Will put 2 coats on again in a few weeks.will clean the prop this time with a 
solvent before applying.  The can doesn't say what is in the product except 4 
solvents all ending in 'lene" toulene, etc.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.






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Re: Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

[Rich Knowles]

I'll split a can with you, Bob. We'll discuss the performance bond. 

Rich

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:16, Robert Abbott  wrote:
> 
> Bob's 'personal performance guarantee' goes like this"if it doesn't work 
> for you, try something else".
> 
> I am willing to bet this stuff is no different than any regular anti fouling 
> bottom paint..they just suck us in by putting it in an aresol spray can.
> 
> So who is going to be the first to paint their prop and SS shaft with 
> antifouling paint and report back in the Fall?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
>> On 2014/03/22 9:11 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:
>> It is gold!  I was at work today and looked at the stuff when I saw Bob's 
>> note. A small can is $20, likely enough to do a prop and shaft and a 
>> transducer or two. Each can we sell is personally autographed by Bob Abbott 
>> and comes with his personal performance guarantee. I'm not sure what he does 
>> if it doesn't work...
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Mar 22, 2014, at 19:36, Graham Collins  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Are you sure it was the paint?  I thought you also distracted Rich when he 
>>> was doing his "re-direct the mussels" dance on the end of the wharf, word 
>>> is that you gave him enough rum that the mussels ended up in Grand Lake 
>>> infesting the Tanzer 22 fleet there...
>>> 
>>> But seriously, how do you move a "6 ox." can, do you need a trailer? :-)
>>> 
>>> I have a new transducer to install, I will have to investigate this stuff.  
>>> I'm sure the Binnacle has it priced as if it is gold...
>>> 
>>> Graham Collins
>>> Secret Plans
>>> C&C 35-III #11
>>> 
 On 2014-03-22 4:36 PM, Robert Abbott wrote:
 This time last year,  I was considering painting my prop and SS shaft with 
 my bottom anti-fouling paint, Micron 66, to try to minimize mussel growth.
 
 Instead, I used a product I found at the Binnacle called "Aquagard 
 Transducer Paint"a 6 ox. spay can.label says it is good for nylon 
 and bronze transducers.apply 2 coats.
 
 On haulout last Fall, the prop and SS shaft was cleana few barnacles 
 on the prop but no mussels..and there was no sign of the 'spray paint' 
 .you could not tell that the prop and shaft were painted.
 
 Will put 2 coats on again in a few weeks.will clean the prop this time 
 with a solvent before applying.  The can doesn't say what is in the 
 product except 4 solvents all ending in 'lene" toulene, etc.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 
> 
> 
> 
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Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

[Robert Boyer]

Mac, the cables (at least on my boat) are called Morris cables.  The cable 
consists of a outer housing and an inner core that transfers the motion from 
the shift cable to the transmission.  The outer housing is usually clamped to 
something solid on both ends so that the inner core is free to move within the 
outer housing.  If this cable goes around a sharp corner or is bent it will be 
hard to move.  I have replaced my transmission cable about 15 years ago.  The 
connection within the pedestal is a royal PITA!  You have to remove the wheel, 
the compass, and the compass support collar (as I recall).  Sounds like a job 
for a nice warm spring day--if one ever comes..

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Annapolis, Maryland
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
"There's nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as messing about 
in boats.” -Kenneth Grahame ___
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Re: Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

[Andrew Burton]

I used the Petit prop paint on my Max Prop last year and when we hauled it was 
pretty clean; little weed and no barnacles. I still have half a can so I will 
be applying it again this year.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 10:41, Rich Knowles  wrote:
> 
> I'll split a can with you, Bob. We'll discuss the performance bond. 
> 
> Rich
> 
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:16, Robert Abbott  wrote:
>> 
>> Bob's 'personal performance guarantee' goes like this"if it doesn't work 
>> for you, try something else".
>> 
>> I am willing to bet this stuff is no different than any regular anti fouling 
>> bottom paint..they just suck us in by putting it in an aresol spray can.
>> 
>> So who is going to be the first to paint their prop and SS shaft with 
>> antifouling paint and report back in the Fall?
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>>> On 2014/03/22 9:11 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:
>>> It is gold!  I was at work today and looked at the stuff when I saw Bob's 
>>> note. A small can is $20, likely enough to do a prop and shaft and a 
>>> transducer or two. Each can we sell is personally autographed by Bob Abbott 
>>> and comes with his personal performance guarantee. I'm not sure what he 
>>> does if it doesn't work...
>>> 
>>> Rich
>>> 
 On Mar 22, 2014, at 19:36, Graham Collins  
 wrote:
 
 Are you sure it was the paint?  I thought you also distracted Rich when he 
 was doing his "re-direct the mussels" dance on the end of the wharf, word 
 is that you gave him enough rum that the mussels ended up in Grand Lake 
 infesting the Tanzer 22 fleet there...
 
 But seriously, how do you move a "6 ox." can, do you need a trailer? :-)
 
 I have a new transducer to install, I will have to investigate this stuff. 
  I'm sure the Binnacle has it priced as if it is gold...
 
 Graham Collins
 Secret Plans
 C&C 35-III #11
 
> On 2014-03-22 4:36 PM, Robert Abbott wrote:
> This time last year,  I was considering painting my prop and SS shaft 
> with my bottom anti-fouling paint, Micron 66, to try to minimize mussel 
> growth.
> 
> Instead, I used a product I found at the Binnacle called "Aquagard 
> Transducer Paint"a 6 ox. spay can.label says it is good for nylon 
> and bronze transducers.apply 2 coats.
> 
> On haulout last Fall, the prop and SS shaft was cleana few barnacles 
> on the prop but no mussels..and there was no sign of the 'spray 
> paint' .you could not tell that the prop and shaft were painted.
> 
> Will put 2 coats on again in a few weeks.will clean the prop this 
> time with a solvent before applying.  The can doesn't say what is in the 
> product except 4 solvents all ending in 'lene" toulene, etc.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

[Andrew Burton]

Morse cable, not Morris.

Andy



Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 10:43, Robert Boyer  wrote:
> 
> Mac, the cables (at least on my boat) are called Morris cables.  The cable 
> consists of a outer housing and an inner core that transfers the motion from 
> the shift cable to the transmission.  The outer housing is usually clamped to 
> something solid on both ends so that the inner core is free to move within 
> the outer housing.  If this cable goes around a sharp corner or is bent it 
> will be hard to move.  I have replaced my transmission cable about 15 years 
> ago.  The connection within the pedestal is a royal PITA!  You have to remove 
> the wheel, the compass, and the compass support collar (as I recall).  Sounds 
> like a job for a nice warm spring day--if one ever comes..
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Annapolis, Maryland
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> "There's nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as messing 
> about in boats.” -Kenneth Grahame 
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Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

[Robert Abbott]

So my 'exorcism' worked.now the mussels are growing on your prop.

Rob



On 2014/03/23 11:41 AM, Rich Knowles wrote:

I'll split a can with you, Bob. We'll discuss the performance bond.

Rich


On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:16, Robert Abbott  wrote:

Bob's 'personal performance guarantee' goes like this"if it doesn't work for 
you, try something else".

I am willing to bet this stuff is no different than any regular anti fouling 
bottom paint..they just suck us in by putting it in an aresol spray can.

So who is going to be the first to paint their prop and SS shaft with 
antifouling paint and report back in the Fall?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/03/22 9:11 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:
It is gold!  I was at work today and looked at the stuff when I saw Bob's note. 
A small can is $20, likely enough to do a prop and shaft and a transducer or 
two. Each can we sell is personally autographed by Bob Abbott and comes with 
his personal performance guarantee. I'm not sure what he does if it doesn't 
work...

Rich






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Re: Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

[dwight]

Bob

Like I suggested last year I think you should try your Micron 66...but
before applying anything and do clean the prop surface well with acetone
wipes before application...don't use brasso to shine the prop because it
leaves an oily residue which will affect adherence of any coating...If I had
a similar problem with my autoprop I would use antifouling paint...I already
use it on the exposed ss drive shaft and the Amercoat antifouling paint that
I use works fine to prevent significant growth on the shaft

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: March 23, 2014 11:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

Bob's 'personal performance guarantee' goes like this"if it doesn't 
work for you, try something else".

I am willing to bet this stuff is no different than any regular anti 
fouling bottom paint..they just suck us in by putting it in an 
aresol spray can.

So who is going to be the first to paint their prop and SS shaft with 
antifouling paint and report back in the Fall?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2014/03/22 9:11 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:
> It is gold!  I was at work today and looked at the stuff when I saw Bob's
note. A small can is $20, likely enough to do a prop and shaft and a
transducer or two. Each can we sell is personally autographed by Bob Abbott
and comes with his personal performance guarantee. I'm not sure what he does
if it doesn't work...
>
> Rich
>
>> On Mar 22, 2014, at 19:36, Graham Collins 
wrote:
>>
>> Are you sure it was the paint?  I thought you also distracted Rich when
he was doing his "re-direct the mussels" dance on the end of the wharf, word
is that you gave him enough rum that the mussels ended up in Grand Lake
infesting the Tanzer 22 fleet there...
>>
>> But seriously, how do you move a "6 ox." can, do you need a trailer? :-)
>>
>> I have a new transducer to install, I will have to investigate this
stuff.  I'm sure the Binnacle has it priced as if it is gold...
>>
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>>
>>> On 2014-03-22 4:36 PM, Robert Abbott wrote:
>>> This time last year,  I was considering painting my prop and SS shaft
with my bottom anti-fouling paint, Micron 66, to try to minimize mussel
growth.
>>>
>>> Instead, I used a product I found at the Binnacle called "Aquagard
Transducer Paint"a 6 ox. spay can.label says it is good for nylon
and bronze transducers.apply 2 coats.
>>>
>>> On haulout last Fall, the prop and SS shaft was cleana few barnacles
on the prop but no mussels..and there was no sign of the 'spray paint'
.you could not tell that the prop and shaft were painted.
>>>
>>> Will put 2 coats on again in a few weeks.will clean the prop this
time with a solvent before applying.  The can doesn't say what is in the
product except 4 solvents all ending in 'lene" toulene, etc.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>>



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Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

[dwight]

I think that is Morse cables but Teleflex are just as good.  Make sure you
get a cable with the right throw.a cable with a 4 inch throw is usually
adequate

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Boyer
Sent: March 23, 2014 11:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

 

Mac, the cables (at least on my boat) are called Morris cables.  The cable
consists of a outer housing and an inner core that transfers the motion from
the shift cable to the transmission.  The outer housing is usually clamped
to something solid on both ends so that the inner core is free to move
within the outer housing.  If this cable goes around a sharp corner or is
bent it will be hard to move.  I have replaced my transmission cable about
15 years ago.  The connection within the pedestal is a royal PITA!  You have
to remove the wheel, the compass, and the compass support collar (as I
recall).  Sounds like a job for a nice warm spring day--if one ever comes..

 

Bob


Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)

Annapolis, Maryland

email: dainyr...@icloud.com

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There's nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as messing
about in boats." -Kenneth Grahame 

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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Chuck S]

David,Forget if you have the Universal M4-30 like me and Dwight?  Many 34plusses were built w Yanmar.Here's what I do after getting much advice from this list over the years:I pull the raw water pump impeller of my Sherwood every Fall and stow it with the key in a sandwich bag to remind me to put it back in before starting the engine in Spring.  I remove the three screws w a box wrench and let the housing hang by the hoses.  I mark the housing w an arrow to show direction of rotation.  I usually can pull the impeller out with my fingers by turning it slightly in the normal direction of rotation.  You can wrap a rag around it to protect your hands.  If it is stuck, I take a pair of needle nosed pliers and gently grab one of the splines near the hub and gently rotate and pull. I close the housing for winter storage.Come Spring, I usually install a new impellor or a spare and place last years in my spare parts tupperware container.  Before assembly, I open the pump housing and coat the rubber splines and wearing surfaces with a waterproof lube; lip baum sticks like Chap Stick work fine.  Vaseline is a little messier.  This protects the rubber from destruction if I forget to open the intake valve before starting the engine.ChuckFrom: "David Knecht" To: "CnC CnC discussion list" Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:49:04 AMSubject: Stus-List Impeller/gear pullerI need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT


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Re: Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

[Rich Knowles]

We'll see. Stand by. 

Rich

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:50, Robert Abbott  wrote:
> 
> So my 'exorcism' worked.now the mussels are growing on your prop.
> 
> Rob
> 
> 
> 
>> On 2014/03/23 11:41 AM, Rich Knowles wrote:
>> I'll split a can with you, Bob. We'll discuss the performance bond.
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:16, Robert Abbott  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Bob's 'personal performance guarantee' goes like this"if it doesn't 
>>> work for you, try something else".
>>> 
>>> I am willing to bet this stuff is no different than any regular anti 
>>> fouling bottom paint..they just suck us in by putting it in an aresol 
>>> spray can.
>>> 
>>> So who is going to be the first to paint their prop and SS shaft with 
>>> antifouling paint and report back in the Fall?
>>> 
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>> 
 On 2014/03/22 9:11 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:
 It is gold!  I was at work today and looked at the stuff when I saw Bob's 
 note. A small can is $20, likely enough to do a prop and shaft and a 
 transducer or two. Each can we sell is personally autographed by Bob 
 Abbott and comes with his personal performance guarantee. I'm not sure 
 what he does if it doesn't work...
 
 Rich
 
 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[David Knecht]

Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don’t want to have happen.  I gather 
that if I pull with pliers, it might happen?  So I really need an impeller 
puller?  Dave

On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight  wrote:

> David
>  
> What water pump.  I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to 
> be very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the 
> impellor drive shaft out altogether…if I do that the job of impellor 
> replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job.
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
> Knecht
> Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
>  
> I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
> removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove 
> it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space 
> between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I 
> could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I 
> bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
>  
>  
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

David Knecht, Ph.D.
Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility
Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
U-3125
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
University of Connecticut
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200
860-486-4331 (fax)





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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[David Knecht]

Hi Chuck et al.- I have the M4-30.  This is the first time I have had the water 
pump apart so I have no idea when the impeller was last removed.  I will 
certainly keep it out for future winters, but I need to get it off to start the 
process.  I actually bought a new one that can run dry for some time, so that 
should take care of the periodic starts with the intake closed.  I will have a 
try at the wiggle/twist and pull with the pliers, but I suspect it is not going 
to come that way and I am worried about Dwight’s comment.  I will see if the 
yard will loan me a puller for this time.  I don’t want to spend $50-100 on a 
puller which should be needed only this time when I am not convinced any of 
them will grab my impeller.  Dave

On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:18 AM, Chuck S  wrote:

> David,
> Forget if you have the Universal M4-30 like me and Dwight?  Many 34plusses 
> were built w Yanmar.
> 
> Here's what I do after getting much advice from this list over the years:
> I pull the raw water pump impeller of my Sherwood every Fall and stow it with 
> the key in a sandwich bag to remind me to put it back in before starting the 
> engine in Spring.  I remove the three screws w a box wrench and let the 
> housing hang by the hoses.  I mark the housing w an arrow to show direction 
> of rotation.  I usually can pull the impeller out with my fingers by turning 
> it slightly in the normal direction of rotation.  You can wrap a rag around 
> it to protect your hands.  If it is stuck, I take a pair of needle nosed 
> pliers and gently grab one of the splines near the hub and gently rotate and 
> pull. I close the housing for winter storage.
> 
> Come Spring, I usually install a new impellor or a spare and place last years 
> in my spare parts tupperware container.  Before assembly, I open the pump 
> housing and coat the rubber splines and wearing surfaces with a waterproof 
> lube; lip baum sticks like Chap Stick work fine.  Vaseline is a little 
> messier.  This protects the rubber from destruction if I forget to open the 
> intake valve before starting the engine.
> 
> Chuck
> 
> From: "David Knecht" 
> To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
> Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:49:04 AM
> Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
> 
> I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
> removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove 
> it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space 
> between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I 
> could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I 
> bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> 
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

David Knecht, Ph.D.
Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility
Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
U-3125
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
University of Connecticut
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200
860-486-4331 (fax)





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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Chuck S]

David, 

Tip 1: You should be able to free the impellor by bending/moving one rubber 
vane tip, one at a time clear of the bronze housing. Start w the straighter 
ones and just nudge the tip away from the housing and let return. Do each one, 
one at a time, all the way round or enough to free the impeller. I don't 
hestitate to do this by hand or with needle nose. Just be gentle. 

Tip 2: The curve of the impeller vanes indicates the rotation. Mark the 
rotation on the housing to help with re-assembly. 

Chuck 

- Original Message -

From: "David Knecht"  
To: "CnC CnC discussion list"  
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 11:37:22 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller 

Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don’t want to have happen. I gather 
that if I pull with pliers, it might happen? So I really need an impeller 
puller? Dave 

On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight < dwight...@gmail.com > wrote: 






David 



What water pump. I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to be 
very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the 
impellor drive shaft out altogether…if I do that the job of impellor 
replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job. 





From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of David 
Knecht 
Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller 




I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it. 
I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space between 
the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I could not get 
the arms of the puller to grab anything. The arms on the one I bought are quite 
thick. Do I need a different tool? Thanks- Dave 








David Knecht 


Aries 


1990 C&C 34+ 


New London , CT 



 



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David Knecht, Ph.D. 
Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility 
Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
U-3125 
91 N. Eagleville Rd. 
University of Connecticut 
Storrs, CT 06269 
860-486-2200 
860-486-4331 (fax) 






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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[dwight]

Yea, just push in on the impellor drive shaft with a finger on one hand (for
me the left hand) and pull on the impellor rubber blades outward and with a
twist with the other hand as chuck described.you don't want to pull that
drive shaft out and you don't want to lose the key in the keyway if possible
so I usually put a clean white rag on the bilge below the pump in case I get
clumsy

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 12:37 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don't want to have happen.  I gather
that if I pull with pliers, it might happen?  So I really need an impeller
puller?  Dave

 

On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight  wrote:





David

 

What water pump.  I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to
be very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the
impellor drive shaft out altogether.if I do that the job of impellor
replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove
it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space
between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I
could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one
I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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David Knecht, Ph.D.

Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility

Department of Molecular and Cell Biology

U-3125

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

University of Connecticut

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

860-486-4331 (fax)





 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Wwadjourn]

Dave,
   Don't over think this, really.  Get some needle nose pliers (ones with 
curved nose great) and a small phillips screwdiver.  Put the screwdiver on the 
center drive shaft and apply enough inward pressure to counteract your pulling 
on the impeller.  You should have no problem.  
Bill Walker
Evening Star,
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.



-Original Message-
From: David Knecht 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Sent: Sun, Mar 23, 2014 11:38 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller


Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don’t want to have happen.  I gather 
that if I pull with pliers, it might happen?  So I really need an impeller 
puller?  Dave


On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight  wrote:



David
 
What water pump.  I have a Sherwoodpump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to be 
very careful when pulling theimpellor off the shaft not to disengage the 
impellor drive shaft out altogether…ifI do that the job of impellor replacement 
instantaneously becomes a much biggerjob.
 



From: CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] OnBehalf Of David Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gearpuller

 
I need to change myimpeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
removing the presentone, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it.  
I tried to useit yesterday and found that there was very little space between 
the back of theimpeller and the housing of the water pump, so I could not get 
the arms of thepuller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I bought are quite 
thick. Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave

 

 


DavidKnecht

Aries

1990C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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David Knecht, Ph.D.

Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility
Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
U-3125
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
University of Connecticut
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200
860-486-4331 (fax)











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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[dwight]

David

Hardest part is getting the cover off the pump; the nuts on those bolts are
hard to get at and you may have to use a knife edge to pry the cover free.
I haven't changed an impellor in 5 or maybe 6 years but I carry spares.  I
winterize my raw water system with 50/50 ethylene glycol water mix after
haul out in fall and so during storage my impellor is always surrounded by
that mix.  When I winterize I disconnect the hose to the raw water thru hull
at the pump end (not the thru hull end) and connect another length of
similar sized hose to the pump which I use for winterizing and which after
winterizing is complete gets suspended above the engine full to almost the
top with the 50/50 mix.  Come spring (soon I hope) I simply put that hose in
a bucket of fresh water that is continuously supplied while I start up and
run the engine on the hard and then before launch I remove that hose and
reattach the hose to the raw water thru hull.easy and works great for me.I
think it has been proven unnecessary to replace that impellor every
year.consider how long they last in outboard motors.in my view a new one may
be just as likely to fail because of faulty construction, I intend to go
another year on the one I have installed now.carrying the riaght spares and
tools is more important in my opinion because this job is not that hard to
do at sea.that said I probably will change someday soon.hard to decide when
to fix something that ain't broke

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 12:40 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

Hi Chuck et al.- I have the M4-30.  This is the first time I have had the
water pump apart so I have no idea when the impeller was last removed.  I
will certainly keep it out for future winters, but I need to get it off to
start the process.  I actually bought a new one that can run dry for some
time, so that should take care of the periodic starts with the intake
closed.  I will have a try at the wiggle/twist and pull with the pliers, but
I suspect it is not going to come that way and I am worried about Dwight's
comment.  I will see if the yard will loan me a puller for this time.  I
don't want to spend $50-100 on a puller which should be needed only this
time when I am not convinced any of them will grab my impeller.  Dave

 

On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:18 AM, Chuck S  wrote:





David,

Forget if you have the Universal M4-30 like me and Dwight?  Many 34plusses
were built w Yanmar.

 

Here's what I do after getting much advice from this list over the years:

I pull the raw water pump impeller of my Sherwood every Fall and stow it
with the key in a sandwich bag to remind me to put it back in before
starting the engine in Spring.  I remove the three screws w a box wrench and
let the housing hang by the hoses.  I mark the housing w an arrow to show
direction of rotation.  I usually can pull the impeller out with my fingers
by turning it slightly in the normal direction of rotation.  You can wrap a
rag around it to protect your hands.  If it is stuck, I take a pair of
needle nosed pliers and gently grab one of the splines near the hub and
gently rotate and pull. I close the housing for winter storage.

 

Come Spring, I usually install a new impellor or a spare and place last
years in my spare parts tupperware container.  Before assembly, I open the
pump housing and coat the rubber splines and wearing surfaces with a
waterproof lube; lip baum sticks like Chap Stick work fine.  Vaseline is a
little messier.  This protects the rubber from destruction if I forget to
open the intake valve before starting the engine.

 

Chuck

 

  _  

From: "David Knecht" 
To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:49:04 AM
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove
it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space
between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I
could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one
I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT


 



___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

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David Knecht, Ph.D.

Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility

Department of Molecular and Cell Biology

U-3125

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

University of Connecticut

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

860-486-4331 (fax)





 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[dwight]

And lubricate the new impellor before installing.I use messy vasoline

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: March 23, 2014 12:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

David,

 

Tip 1:  You should be able to free the impellor by bending/moving one rubber
vane tip, one at a time clear of the bronze housing.  Start w the straighter
ones and just nudge the tip away from the housing and let return.  Do each
one, one at a time, all the way round or enough to free the impeller.  I
don't hestitate to do this by hand or with needle nose.  Just be gentle.

 

Tip 2:  The curve of the impeller vanes indicates the rotation.  Mark the
rotation on the housing to help with re-assembly.

 

Chuck

 

  _  

From: "David Knecht" 
To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 11:37:22 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don't want to have happen.  I gather
that if I pull with pliers, it might happen?  So I really need an impeller
puller?  Dave

 

On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight  wrote:

 



David

 

What water pump.  I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to
be very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the
impellor drive shaft out altogether.if I do that the job of impellor
replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job.

 



  _  


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove
it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space
between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I
could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one
I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave

 

 



David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

David Knecht, Ph.D.

Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility

Department of Molecular and Cell Biology

U-3125

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

University of Connecticut

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

860-486-4331 (fax)





 

 

 


___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Stus-List Wiring

[David Knecht]

I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was at West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire or single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since it included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I notice that nearly all of the existing wiring on the boat is single strand.  Is there any reason not to buy a spool of duplex and just split the enclosing shield for the few times I need only one wire?  Dave
David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT


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Re: Stus-List Wiring

[Joe Della Barba]

No.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

 

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 1:01 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Wiring

 

I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was
at West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire
or single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since
it included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I
notice that nearly all of the existing wiring on the boat is single strand.
Is there any reason not to buy a spool of duplex and just split the
enclosing shield for the few times I need only one wire?  Dave

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Wiring

[Rich Knowles]

That's the best way to go. 

Rich

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 14:01, David Knecht  wrote:
> 
> I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was at 
> West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire or 
> single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since it 
> included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I notice 
> that nearly all of the existing wiring on the boat is single strand.  Is 
> there any reason not to buy a spool of duplex and just split the enclosing 
> shield for the few times I need only one wire?  Dave
> 
> 
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Wiring

[dwight]

I am not a marine electrician expert but I would suggest that 2 wires are
safer that duplex wire albeit more expensive.fires and fuses.probably the
marine electrical experts will explain why 2 wires are used to supply power
almost exclusively on our sail boats

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 2:01 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Wiring

 

I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was
at West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire
or single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since
it included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I
notice that nearly all of the existing wiring on the boat is single strand.
Is there any reason not to buy a spool of duplex and just split the
enclosing shield for the few times I need only one wire?  Dave

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

<>___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Wiring

[Joe Della Barba]

I was in the marine electrical business for some years and about 95% of the
time we used duplex wire. The extra layer of insulation certainly adds to
safety instead of being less safe.

The original wiring job on my 1973 35 was - barely - adequate for fresh
water use in 1973 and about 90% of it has long since dissolved into black
copper dust and been replaced.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 1:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring

 

I am not a marine electrician expert but I would suggest that 2 wires are
safer that duplex wire albeit more expensive.fires and fuses.probably the
marine electrical experts will explain why 2 wires are used to supply power
almost exclusively on our sail boats

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 2:01 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Wiring

 

I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was
at West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire
or single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since
it included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I
notice that nearly all of the existing wiring on the boat is single strand.
Is there any reason not to buy a spool of duplex and just split the
enclosing shield for the few times I need only one wire?  Dave

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

<>___
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Re: Stus-List Wiring

[Chuck S]

David,Each application may require a different kind of wire.  The Monitor wire is probably small current flow, 16 gauge or smaller like lampcord.  The solar panel probably requires heavier wire, # 4 or larger like jumper cables?  I'd follow the manufacturer's recs and buy that type, a little longer than estimated. From: "David Knecht" To: "CnC CnC discussion list" Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 1:01:01 PMSubject: Stus-List WiringI have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was at West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire or single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since it included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I notice that nearly all of the existing wiring on the boat is single strand.  Is there any reason not to buy a spool of duplex and just split the enclosing shield for the few times I need only one wire?  Dave
David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT


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Re: Stus-List Wiring

[Rich Knowles]

Dwight, with respect, that's nonsense. Twin wires are just fine, perfectly safe 
and used on all modern boats. When our kid crocks were made there was no decent 
quality marine twin lead. 

Rich

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 14:14, "dwight"  wrote:
> 
> I am not a marine electrician expert but I would suggest that 2 wires are 
> safer that duplex wire albeit more expensive…fires and fuses…probably the 
> marine electrical experts will explain why 2 wires are used to supply power 
> almost exclusively on our sail boats
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
> Knecht
> Sent: March 23, 2014 2:01 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Subject: Stus-List Wiring
>  
> I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was at 
> West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire or 
> single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since it 
> included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I notice 
> that nearly all of the existing wiring on the boat is single strand.  Is 
> there any reason not to buy a spool of duplex and just split the enclosing 
> shield for the few times I need only one wire?  Dave
>  
>  
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Wiring

[Rich Knowles]

No matter what the application, the size/gauge of wire is a function of 
distance and current draw. 

Our very own web site, thank you Stu, has all the info you need to determine 
wire size. Remember distance is the return journey, not just one way. See:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/wiring/wiring.htm

Rich

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 14:36, Chuck S  wrote:
> 
> David,
> Each application may require a different kind of wire.  The Monitor wire is 
> probably small current flow, 16 gauge or smaller like lampcord.  The solar 
> panel probably requires heavier wire, # 4 or larger like jumper cables?  I'd 
> follow the manufacturer's recs and buy that type, a little longer than 
> estimated. 
> 
> 
> From: "David Knecht" 
> To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
> Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 1:01:01 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Wiring
> 
> I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was at 
> West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire or 
> single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since it 
> included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I notice 
> that nearly all of the existing wiring on the boat is single strand.  Is 
> there any reason not to buy a spool of duplex and just split the enclosing 
> shield for the few times I need only one wire?  Dave
> 
> 
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
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Re: Stus-List Wiring

[dwight]

Good to know that Joe.I knew an expert would tell us the right way.thanks

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della
Barba
Sent: March 23, 2014 2:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring

 

I was in the marine electrical business for some years and about 95% of the
time we used duplex wire. The extra layer of insulation certainly adds to
safety instead of being less safe.

The original wiring job on my 1973 35 was - barely - adequate for fresh
water use in 1973 and about 90% of it has long since dissolved into black
copper dust and been replaced.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 1:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring

 

I am not a marine electrician expert but I would suggest that 2 wires are
safer that duplex wire albeit more expensive.fires and fuses.probably the
marine electrical experts will explain why 2 wires are used to supply power
almost exclusively on our sail boats

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 2:01 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Wiring

 

I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was
at West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire
or single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since
it included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I
notice that nearly all of the existing wiring on the boat is single strand.
Is there any reason not to buy a spool of duplex and just split the
enclosing shield for the few times I need only one wire?  Dave

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

<>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Wiring

[dwight]

Thanks Rich. Like I said I am not expert at that, but Joe and you are so I
certainly defer to your knowledge.that nonsense was just my way of looking
at it

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: March 23, 2014 3:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring

 

Dwight, with respect, that's nonsense. Twin wires are just fine, perfectly
safe and used on all modern boats. When our kid crocks were made there was
no decent quality marine twin lead. 

Rich


On Mar 23, 2014, at 14:14, "dwight"  wrote:

I am not a marine electrician expert but I would suggest that 2 wires are
safer that duplex wire albeit more expensive.fires and fuses.probably the
marine electrical experts will explain why 2 wires are used to supply power
almost exclusively on our sail boats

 


  _  


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 2:01 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Wiring

 

I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was
at West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire
or single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since
it included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I
notice that nearly all of the existing wiring on the boat is single strand.
Is there any reason not to buy a spool of duplex and just split the
enclosing shield for the few times I need only one wire?  Dave

 

 



David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Wiring

[dwight]

OK Rich, so why are the electrical system components on my boat almost
exclusively supplied with 2 individual wires.I am quite certain the boat
came from the factory that way as very few circuits have as yet to be
rewired.hell I still got fuses.a sign of the times maybe or better duplex
wire nowadays.seems to me that manufactures might go the less expensive
route, especially if it were equally good so why don't I have duplex wires?

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: March 23, 2014 3:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring

 

No matter what the application, the size/gauge of wire is a function of
distance and current draw. 

 

Our very own web site, thank you Stu, has all the info you need to determine
wire size. Remember distance is the return journey, not just one way. See:

 

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/wiring/wiring.htm

Rich


On Mar 23, 2014, at 14:36, Chuck S  wrote:

David,

Each application may require a different kind of wire.  The Monitor wire is
probably small current flow, 16 gauge or smaller like lampcord.  The solar
panel probably requires heavier wire, # 4 or larger like jumper cables?  I'd
follow the manufacturer's recs and buy that type, a little longer than
estimated. 

 

 


  _  


From: "David Knecht" 
To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 1:01:01 PM
Subject: Stus-List Wiring

 

I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was
at West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire
or single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since
it included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I
notice that nearly all of the existing wiring on the boat is single strand.
Is there any reason not to buy a spool of duplex and just split the
enclosing shield for the few times I need only one wire?  Dave

 

 



David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT


 



___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

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Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

[Rick Brass]

I'm not sure the able wii come out the bottom. On my boat the two levers neded 
to be removed from the mechanism, and then the cables came out the top after 
the screws retaining the cable sheaths wears removed.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 0:51, Rich Knowles  wrote:
> 
> On mine, there is a screw through the side of the top of the tube housing the 
> cable that attaches the end of the cable jacket to the inside of the tube. 
> Check to see if you have that screw and undo it. That should allow the cable 
> to be pulled out the bottom of the cockpit sole. 
> 
> Rich
> 
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 1:22, "Martin \"Mac\" McKenzie"  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> HI all,
>> 
>> I have a stiff shift cable on my C&C. I have the separate shift and throttle 
>> on either side of the pedestal guard not on the pedestal itself. The cable 
>> runs up the stainless tube. Has any one ever tried to replace this cable?
>> 
>> I cannot figure out how the cable is attached inside the tube. I have 
>> disconnected the shift lever so the cable is free at that end. There is no 
>> way I can pull the cable out from underneath.
>> 
>> I know it's the cable that is stiff and not the linkages or transmission.
>> 
>> Any ideas?
>>  
>> Mac
>> Worthy Pearl
>> 1983 C&C 37 
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Re: Stus-List Wiring

[Rich Knowles]

No prob, Dwight. There have been many changes in technology and materials. I 
know doodly about fibreglass and resin. 

Rich

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 15:29, "dwight"  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Rich. Like I said I am not expert at that, but Joe and you are so I 
> certainly defer to your knowledge…that nonsense was just my way of looking at 
> it
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich 
> Knowles
> Sent: March 23, 2014 3:06 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring
>  
> Dwight, with respect, that's nonsense. Twin wires are just fine, perfectly 
> safe and used on all modern boats. When our kid crocks were made there was no 
> decent quality marine twin lead. 
> 
> Rich
> 
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 14:14, "dwight"  wrote:
>> I am not a marine electrician expert but I would suggest that 2 wires are 
>> safer that duplex wire albeit more expensive…fires and fuses…probably the 
>> marine electrical experts will explain why 2 wires are used to supply power 
>> almost exclusively on our sail boats
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
>> Knecht
>> Sent: March 23, 2014 2:01 PM
>> To: CnC CnC discussion list
>> Subject: Stus-List Wiring
>>  
>> I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was 
>> at West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire 
>> or single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since 
>> it included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I 
>> notice that nearly all of the existing wiring on the boat is single strand.  
>> Is there any reason not to buy a spool of duplex and just split the 
>> enclosing shield for the few times I need only one wire?  Dave
>>  
>>  
>> David Knecht
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Wiring

[Rich Knowles]

When our boats were built, that was the accepted wiring practice. Fuses were in 
our houses along with left over knob and tube wiring. Thank goodness those days 
are gone. 

Rich

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 15:34, "dwight"  wrote:
> 
> OK Rich, so why are the electrical system components on my boat almost 
> exclusively supplied with 2 individual wires…I am quite certain the boat came 
> from the factory that way as very few circuits have as yet to be rewired…hell 
> I still got fuses…a sign of the times maybe or better duplex wire 
> nowadays…seems to me that manufactures might go the less expensive route, 
> especially if it were equally good so why don’t I have duplex wires?
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich 
> Knowles
> Sent: March 23, 2014 3:14 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring
>  
> No matter what the application, the size/gauge of wire is a function of 
> distance and current draw. 
>  
> Our very own web site, thank you Stu, has all the info you need to determine 
> wire size. Remember distance is the return journey, not just one way. See:
>  
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/wiring/wiring.htm
> 
> Rich
> 
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 14:36, Chuck S  wrote:
>> David,
>> Each application may require a different kind of wire.  The Monitor wire is 
>> probably small current flow, 16 gauge or smaller like lampcord.  The solar 
>> panel probably requires heavier wire, # 4 or larger like jumper cables?  I'd 
>> follow the manufacturer's recs and buy that type, a little longer than 
>> estimated.
>>  
>>  
>> From: "David Knecht" 
>> To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
>> Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 1:01:01 PM
>> Subject: Stus-List Wiring
>>  
>> I have to run some new wire for a solar panel and the tank monitor.  I was 
>> at West Marine yesterday looking at wire and I had the option of duplex wire 
>> or single strand wire.  The duplex was significantly cheaper per foot since 
>> it included both wires instead of buying each  color separately.  But I 
>> notice that nearly all of the existing wiring on the boat is single strand.  
>> Is there any reason not to buy a spool of duplex and just split the 
>> enclosing shield for the few times I need only one wire?  Dave
>>  
>>  
>> David Knecht
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>  
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

[Rich Knowles]

That might be the case. I've never had to completely remove a cable, but I 
think the hole at the bottom on my boat is the same size as the tube interior. 
No matter, it'll come out one way or another. 

Rich

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 16:16, Rick Brass  wrote:
> 
> I'm not sure the able wii come out the bottom. On my boat the two levers 
> neded to be removed from the mechanism, and then the cables came out the top 
> after the screws retaining the cable sheaths wears removed.
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 0:51, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>> 
>> On mine, there is a screw through the side of the top of the tube housing 
>> the cable that attaches the end of the cable jacket to the inside of the 
>> tube. Check to see if you have that screw and undo it. That should allow the 
>> cable to be pulled out the bottom of the cockpit sole. 
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 1:22, "Martin \"Mac\" McKenzie"  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> HI all,
>>> 
>>> I have a stiff shift cable on my C&C. I have the separate shift and 
>>> throttle on either side of the pedestal guard not on the pedestal itself. 
>>> The cable runs up the stainless tube. Has any one ever tried to replace 
>>> this cable?
>>> 
>>> I cannot figure out how the cable is attached inside the tube. I have 
>>> disconnected the shift lever so the cable is free at that end. There is no 
>>> way I can pull the cable out from underneath.
>>> 
>>> I know it's the cable that is stiff and not the linkages or transmission.
>>> 
>>> Any ideas?
>>>  
>>> Mac
>>> Worthy Pearl
>>> 1983 C&C 37 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
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Re: Stus-List Wiring

[Joel Aronson]

Blue Sea has a circuit wizard app tohelp size   wires.

On Sunday, March 23, 2014, Rich Knowles  wrote:

> When our boats were built, that was the accepted wiring practice. Fuses
> were in our houses along with left over knob and tube wiring. Thank
> goodness those days are gone.
>
> Rich
>
> On Mar 23, 2014, at 15:34, "dwight"  wrote:
>
>OK Rich, so why are the electrical system components on my boat almost
> exclusively supplied with 2 individual wires...I am quite certain the boat
> came from the factory that way as very few circuits have as yet to be
> rewired...hell I still got fuses...a sign of the times maybe or better duplex
> wire nowadays...seems to me that manufactures might go the less expensive
> route, especially if it were equally good so why don't I have duplex wires?
>
>
>  --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rich
> Knowles
> *Sent:* March 23, 2014 3:14 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wiring
>
>
>
> No matter what the application, the size/gauge of wire is a function of
> distance and current draw.
>
>
>
> Our very own web site, thank you Stu, has all the info you need to
> determine wire size. Remember distance is the return journey, not just one
> way. See:
>
>
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/wiring/wiring.htm
>
> Rich
>
>
> On Mar 23, 2014, at 14:36, Chuck S  wrote:
>
>   David,
>
> Each application may require a different kind of wire.  The Monitor wire
> is probably small current flow, 16 gauge or smaller like lampcord.  The
> solar panel probably requires heavier wire, # 4 or larger like jumper
> cables?  I'd follow the manufacturer's recs and buy that type, a little
> longer than estimated.
>
>
>
>
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Gmail]

Ditto.  Shouldn't be that difficult. 

For most pumps, I just grab the impeller either side of the shaft with needle 
nose pliers, wiggle the thing while pulling. Most just come right out. When 
replacing, put a little lube on the vanes and shove it in. 

The vanes will assume the proper bend after a few rotations. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 10:13 AM, Wwadjourn  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
>Don't over think this, really.  Get some needle nose pliers (ones with 
> curved nose great) and a small phillips screwdiver.  Put the screwdiver on 
> the center drive shaft and apply enough inward pressure to counteract your 
> pulling on the impeller.  You should have no problem.  
> Bill Walker
> Evening Star,
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi.
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: David Knecht 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Sent: Sun, Mar 23, 2014 11:38 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
> 
> Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don’t want to have happen.  I gather 
> that if I pull with pliers, it might happen?  So I really need an impeller 
> puller?  Dave
> 
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight  wrote:
>> 
>> David
>>  
>> What water pump.  I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to 
>> be very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the 
>> impellor drive shaft out altogether…if I do that the job of impellor 
>> replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job.
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
>> Knecht
>> Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
>> To: CnC CnC discussion list
>> Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
>>  
>> I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
>> removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove 
>> it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space 
>> between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I 
>> could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one 
>> I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
>>  
>>  
>> David Knecht
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> David Knecht, Ph.D.
> Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility
> Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
> U-3125
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> University of Connecticut
> Storrs, CT 06269
> 860-486-2200
> 860-486-4331 (fax)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
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Re: Stus-List Wiring

[Gmail]

About the only differences between using duplex vs primary are aesthetics, 
protection and heat rejection. 

Duplex will be better protected from chafe and damage. 

However, Once you calculate the recommended wire size for primary wire, 
increase it one size for duplex wire because it will run hotter in the sheath. 

I routinely strip a single wire out of duplex when I need it. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 2:07 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
> 
> Blue Sea has a circuit wizard app tohelp size   wires.  
> 
>> On Sunday, March 23, 2014, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>> When our boats were built, that was the accepted wiring practice. Fuses were 
>> in our houses along with left over knob and tube wiring. Thank goodness 
>> those days are gone. 
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 15:34, "dwight"  wrote:
>>> 
>>> OK Rich, so why are the electrical system components on my boat almost 
>>> exclusively supplied with 2 individual wires…I am quite certain the boat 
>>> came from the factory that way as very few circuits have as yet to be 
>>> rewired…hell I still got fuses…a sign of the times maybe or better duplex 
>>> wire nowadays…seems to me that manufactures might go the less expensive 
>>> route, especially if it were equally good so why don’t I have duplex wires?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich 
>>> Knowles
>>> Sent: March 23, 2014 3:14 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> No matter what the application, the size/gauge of wire is a function of 
>>> distance and current draw. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Our very own web site, thank you Stu, has all the info you need to 
>>> determine wire size. Remember distance is the return journey, not just one 
>>> way. See:
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/wiring/wiring.htm
>>> 
>>> Rich
>>> 
>>> 
 On Mar 23, 2014, at 14:36, Chuck S  wrote:
 David,
 
 Each application may require a different kind of wire.  The Monitor wire 
 is probably small current flow, 16 gauge or smaller like lampcord.  The 
 solar panel probably requires heavier wire, # 4 or larger like jumper 
 cables?  I'd follow the manufacturer's recs and buy that type, a little 
 longer than estimated. 
 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
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Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

[Martin "Mac" McKenzie]

Thanks for the ideas. I will be down at the boat a few times this week. 
Hopefully I will get a chance to try again.

Mac
Worthy Pearl
1983 C&C 37 


That might be the case. I've never had to completely remove a cable, but I 
think the hole at the bottom on my boat is the same size as the tube interior. 
No matter, it'll come out one way or another. 

Rich

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 16:16, Rick Brass  wrote:
> 
> I'm not sure the able wii come out the bottom. On my boat the two levers 
> neded to be removed from the mechanism, and then the cables came out the top 
> after the screws retaining the cable sheaths wears removed.
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 0:51, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>> 
>> On mine, there is a screw through the side of the top of the tube housing 
>> the cable that attaches the end of the cable jacket to the inside of the 
>> tube. Check to see if you have that screw and undo it. That should allow the 
>> cable to be pulled out the bottom of the cockpit sole. 
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 1:22, "Martin \"Mac\" McKenzie"  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> HI all,
>>> 
>>> I have a stiff shift cable on my C&C. I have the separate shift and 
>>> throttle on either side of the pedestal guard not on the pedestal itself. 
>>> The cable runs up the stainless tube. Has any one ever tried to replace 
>>> this cable?
>>> 
>>> I cannot figure out how the cable is attached inside the tube. I have 
>>> disconnected the shift lever so the cable is free at that end. There is no 
>>> way I can pull the cable out from underneath.
>>> 
>>> I know it's the cable that is stiff and not the linkages or transmission.
>>> 
>>> Any ideas?
>>>  
>>> Mac
>>> Worthy Pearl
>>> 1983 C&C 37 ___
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Stus-List Boat AC Outlets

[Edd Schillay]

Listers,

It looks like the Enterprise's AC system has suffered some corrosion over the 
winter and I'm thinking of doing a bit of an overhaul, including replacing some 
of the outlets on board with GFI ones that will stand up to a marine 
environment. 

Anyone have a recommendation on the best outlets to buy? Looks like Defender 
and West Marine don't sell any. Links would be appreciated. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Wiring

[dwight]

"it will run hotter in the sheath".that is sort of what I was thinking when
I suggested the "fire and fuses" issue, not to mention that the duplex wire
is fatter and thus a bit more difficult to run through tight spaces.that
said, I used it to power the electric marine toilet on Alianna

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gmail
Sent: March 23, 2014 7:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring

 

About the only differences between using duplex vs primary are aesthetics,
protection and heat rejection. 

 

Duplex will be better protected from chafe and damage. 

 

However, Once you calculate the recommended wire size for primary wire,
increase it one size for duplex wire because it will run hotter in the
sheath. 

 

I routinely strip a single wire out of duplex when I need it. 

 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone


On Mar 23, 2014, at 2:07 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

Blue Sea has a circuit wizard app tohelp size   wires.  

On Sunday, March 23, 2014, Rich Knowles  wrote:

When our boats were built, that was the accepted wiring practice. Fuses were
in our houses along with left over knob and tube wiring. Thank goodness
those days are gone. 

Rich


On Mar 23, 2014, at 15:34, "dwight"  wrote:

OK Rich, so why are the electrical system components on my boat almost
exclusively supplied with 2 individual wires.I am quite certain the boat
came from the factory that way as very few circuits have as yet to be
rewired.hell I still got fuses.a sign of the times maybe or better duplex
wire nowadays.seems to me that manufactures might go the less expensive
route, especially if it were equally good so why don't I have duplex wires?

 


  _  


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: March 23, 2014 3:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring

 

No matter what the application, the size/gauge of wire is a function of
distance and current draw. 

 

Our very own web site, thank you Stu, has all the info you need to determine
wire size. Remember distance is the return journey, not just one way. See:

 

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/wiring/wiring.htm

Rich


On Mar 23, 2014, at 14:36, Chuck S  wrote:

David,

Each application may require a different kind of wire.  The Monitor wire is
probably small current flow, 16 gauge or smaller like lampcord.  The solar
panel probably requires heavier wire, # 4 or larger like jumper cables?  I'd
follow the manufacturer's recs and buy that type, a little longer than
estimated. 

 

 



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

___
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Re: Stus-List Prop Anti-fouling Paint

[ahycrace]

Andy
 Was that the gray zinc paint?  I tried that stuff last year and the 
barnacles loved it they just grew right on top of the paint. I'll never buy 
that product again.

   Gary  "Liberty"
   Greenwich Bay, 
Warwick RI
 Andrew Burton  wrote: 
> I used the Petit prop paint on my Max Prop last year and when we hauled it 
> was pretty clean; little weed and no barnacles. I still have half a can so I 
> will be applying it again this year.
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
> > On Mar 23, 2014, at 10:41, Rich Knowles  wrote:
> > 
> > I'll split a can with you, Bob. We'll discuss the performance bond. 
> > 
> > Rich
> > 
> >> On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:16, Robert Abbott  wrote:
> >> 
> >> Bob's 'personal performance guarantee' goes like this"if it doesn't 
> >> work for you, try something else".
> >> 
> >> I am willing to bet this stuff is no different than any regular anti 
> >> fouling bottom paint..they just suck us in by putting it in an aresol 
> >> spray can.
> >> 
> >> So who is going to be the first to paint their prop and SS shaft with 
> >> antifouling paint and report back in the Fall?
> >> 
> >> Rob Abbott
> >> AZURA
> >> C&C 32 - 84
> >> Halifax, N.S.
> >> 
> >>> On 2014/03/22 9:11 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:
> >>> It is gold!  I was at work today and looked at the stuff when I saw Bob's 
> >>> note. A small can is $20, likely enough to do a prop and shaft and a 
> >>> transducer or two. Each can we sell is personally autographed by Bob 
> >>> Abbott and comes with his personal performance guarantee. I'm not sure 
> >>> what he does if it doesn't work...
> >>> 
> >>> Rich
> >>> 
>  On Mar 22, 2014, at 19:36, Graham Collins  
>  wrote:
>  
>  Are you sure it was the paint?  I thought you also distracted Rich when 
>  he was doing his "re-direct the mussels" dance on the end of the wharf, 
>  word is that you gave him enough rum that the mussels ended up in Grand 
>  Lake infesting the Tanzer 22 fleet there...
>  
>  But seriously, how do you move a "6 ox." can, do you need a trailer? :-)
>  
>  I have a new transducer to install, I will have to investigate this 
>  stuff.  I'm sure the Binnacle has it priced as if it is gold...
>  
>  Graham Collins
>  Secret Plans
>  C&C 35-III #11
>  
> > On 2014-03-22 4:36 PM, Robert Abbott wrote:
> > This time last year,  I was considering painting my prop and SS shaft 
> > with my bottom anti-fouling paint, Micron 66, to try to minimize mussel 
> > growth.
> > 
> > Instead, I used a product I found at the Binnacle called "Aquagard 
> > Transducer Paint"a 6 ox. spay can.label says it is good for 
> > nylon and bronze transducers.apply 2 coats.
> > 
> > On haulout last Fall, the prop and SS shaft was cleana few 
> > barnacles on the prop but no mussels..and there was no sign of the 
> > 'spray paint' .you could not tell that the prop and shaft were 
> > painted.
> > 
> > Will put 2 coats on again in a few weeks.will clean the prop this 
> > time with a solvent before applying.  The can doesn't say what is in 
> > the product except 4 solvents all ending in 'lene" toulene, etc.
> > 
> > Rob Abbott
> > AZURA
> > C&C 32 - 84
> > Halifax, N.S.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> ___
> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[JOHN D IRVIN]

Tip. Replace the impeller fasteners with screws which take a hex key. Much 
easier to work with.




From: dwight 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:21:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller



David
Hardest part is getting the cover off the pump; the nuts on those bolts are 
hard to get at and you may have to use a knife edge to pry the cover free.  I 
haven’t changed an impellor in 5 or maybe 6 years but I carry spares.  I 
winterize my raw water system with 50/50 ethylene glycol water mix after haul 
out in fall and so during storage my impellor is always surrounded by that mix. 
 When I winterize I disconnect the hose to the raw water thru hull at the pump 
end (not the thru hull end) and connect another length of similar sized hose to 
the pump which I use for winterizing and which after winterizing is complete 
gets suspended above the engine full to almost the top with the 50/50 mix.  
Come spring (soon I hope) I simply put that hose in a bucket of fresh water 
that is continuously supplied while I start up and run the engine on the hard 
and then before launch I remove that hose and reattach the hose to the raw 
water thru hull…easy and works
 great for me…I think it has been proven unnecessary to replace that impellor 
every year…consider how long they last in outboard motors…in my view a new one 
may be just as likely to fail because of faulty construction, I intend to go 
another year on the one I have installed now…carrying the riaght spares and 
tools is more important in my opinion because this job is not that hard to do 
at sea…that said I probably will change someday soon…hard to decide when to fix 
something that ain’t broke
 



From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 12:40 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
 
Hi Chuck et al.- I have the M4-30.  This is the first time I have had the water 
pump apart so I have no idea when the impeller was last removed.  I will 
certainly keep it out for future winters, but I need to get it off to start the 
process.  I actually bought a new one that can run dry for some time, so that 
should take care of the periodic starts with the intake closed.  I will have a 
try at the wiggle/twist and pull with the pliers, but I suspect it is not going 
to come that way and I am worried about Dwight’s comment.  I will see if the 
yard will loan me a puller for this time.  I don’t want to spend $50-100 on a 
puller which should be needed only this time when I am not convinced any of 
them will grab my impeller.  Dave
 
On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:18 AM, Chuck S  wrote:


David,
Forget if you have the Universal M4-30 like me and Dwight?  Many 34plusses were 
built w Yanmar.
 
Here's what I do after getting much advice from this list over the years:
I pull the raw water pump impeller of my Sherwood every Fall and stow it with 
the key in a sandwich bag to remind me to put it back in before starting the 
engine in Spring.  I remove the three screws w a box wrench and let the housing 
hang by the hoses.  I mark the housing w an arrow to show direction of 
rotation.  I usually can pull the impeller out with my fingers by turning it 
slightly in the normal direction of rotation.  You can wrap a rag around it to 
protect your hands.  If it is stuck, I take a pair of needle nosed pliers and 
gently grab one of the splines near the hub and gently rotate and pull. I close 
the housing for winter storage.
 
Come Spring, I usually install a new impellor or a spare and place last years 
in my spare parts tupperware container.  Before assembly, I open the pump 
housing and coat the rubber splines and wearing surfaces with a waterproof 
lube; lip baum sticks like Chap Stick work fine.  Vaseline is a little messier. 
 This protects the rubber from destruction if I forget to open the intake valve 
before starting the engine.
 
Chuck
 



From: "David Knecht" 
To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:49:04 AM
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
 
I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it.  
I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space between 
the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I could not get 
the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I bought are 
quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
 
 
David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

 


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Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

[Michael Brown]

Mac, if this is what you have I can give you detailed instructions.

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7005

I have most of mine sitting on my worktable.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


From: Rick Brass  
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37 
Message-ID: <6a4bb830-2612-4ddf-8085-6520ea070...@earthlink.net> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 
 
I'm not sure the able wii come out the bottom. On my boat the two levers neded 
to be removed from the mechanism, and then the cables came out the top after 
the screws retaining the cable sheaths wears removed. 
 
Rick Brass 
 
Sent from my iPad 
 
> On Mar 23, 2014, at 0:51, Rich Knowles  wrote: 
>  
> On mine, there is a screw through the side of the top of the tube housing the 
> cable that attaches the end of the cable jacket to the inside of the tube. 
> Check to see if you have that screw and undo it. That should allow the cable 
> to be pulled out the bottom of the cockpit sole.  
>  
> Rich 
>  
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 1:22, "Martin \"Mac\" McKenzie"  
>> wrote: 
>>  
>> HI all, 
>>  
>> I have a stiff shift cable on my C&C. I have the separate shift and throttle 
>> on either side of the pedestal guard not on the pedestal itself. The cable 
>> runs up the stainless tube. Has any one ever tried to replace this cable? 
>>  
>> I cannot figure out how the cable is attached inside the tube. I have 
>> disconnected the shift lever so the cable is free at that end. There is no 
>> way I can pull the cable out from underneath. 
>>  
>> I know it's the cable that is stiff and not the linkages or transmission. 
>>  
>> Any ideas? 
>>   
>> Mac 
>> Worthy Pearl 
>> 1983 C&C 37  
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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[coltrek]

Another tip, get the Speed Seal cover  (with thumb screws) and you don't need 
any tools!  Well, maybe some needle nose pliers to pull the impeller out.

Bill

 Original message From: JOHN D IRVIN 
 Date:03/23/2014  7:02 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Impeller/gear puller 
Tip. Replace the impeller fasteners with screws which take a hex key. 
Much easier to work with.

From: dwight 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:21:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

David
Hardest part is getting the cover off the pump; the nuts on those bolts are 
hard to get at and you may have to use a knife edge to pry the cover free.  I 
haven’t changed an impellor in 5 or maybe 6 years but I carry spares.  I 
winterize my raw water system with 50/50 ethylene glycol water mix after haul 
out in fall and so during storage my impellor is always surrounded by that mix. 
 When I winterize I disconnect the hose to the raw water thru hull at the pump 
end (not the thru hull end) and connect another length of similar sized hose to 
the pump which I use for winterizing and which after winterizing is complete 
gets suspended above the engine full to almost the top with the 50/50 mix.  
Come spring (soon I hope) I simply put that hose in a bucket of fresh water 
that is continuously supplied while I start up and run the engine on the hard 
and then before launch I remove that hose and reattach the hose to the raw 
water thru hull…easy and works great for me…I think it has been proven 
unnecessary to replace that impellor every year…consider how long they last in 
outboard motors…in my view a new one may be just as likely to fail because of 
faulty construction, I intend to go another year on the one I have installed 
now…carrying the riaght spares and tools is more important in my opinion 
because this job is not that hard to do at sea…that said I probably will change 
someday soon…hard to decide when to fix something that ain’t broke
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 12:40 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
 
Hi Chuck et al.- I have the M4-30.  This is the first time I have had the water 
pump apart so I have no idea when the impeller was last removed.  I will 
certainly keep it out for future winters, but I need to get it off to start the 
process.  I actually bought a new one that can run dry for some time, so that 
should take care of the periodic starts with the intake closed.  I will have a 
try at the wiggle/twist and pull with the pliers, but I suspect it is not going 
to come that way and I am worried about Dwight’s comment.  I will see if the 
yard will loan me a puller for this time.  I don’t want to spend $50-100 on a 
puller which should be needed only this time when I am not convinced any of 
them will grab my impeller.  Dave
 
On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:18 AM, Chuck S  wrote:


David,
Forget if you have the Universal M4-30 like me and Dwight?  Many 34plusses were 
built w Yanmar.
 
Here's what I do after getting much advice from this list over the years:
I pull the raw water pump impeller of my Sherwood every Fall and stow it with 
the key in a sandwich bag to remind me to put it back in before starting the 
engine in Spring.  I remove the three screws w a box wrench and let the housing 
hang by the hoses.  I mark the housing w an arrow to show direction of 
rotation.  I usually can pull the impeller out with my fingers by turning it 
slightly in the normal direction of rotation.  You can wrap a rag around it to 
protect your hands.  If it is stuck, I take a pair of needle nosed pliers and 
gently grab one of the splines near the hub and gently rotate and pull. I close 
the housing for winter storage.
 
Come Spring, I usually install a new impellor or a spare and place last years 
in my spare parts tupperware container.  Before assembly, I open the pump 
housing and coat the rubber splines and wearing surfaces with a waterproof 
lube; lip baum sticks like Chap Stick work fine.  Vaseline is a little messier. 
 This protects the rubber from destruction if I forget to open the intake valve 
before starting the engine.
 
Chuck
 
From: "David Knecht" 
To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:49:04 AM
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
 
I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it.  
I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space between 
the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I could not get 
the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I bought are 
quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
 
 
David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 conversion

[Josh Muckley]

I'm not a NMEA 0183 expert but I though the different versions were
backwards compatible.  So if the Zeus will take NMEA 0183 (3.0) then it
should understand ver. 1.5.  I was under the impression that the 3.0 just
had MORE reconized "sentences".

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
Solomons, MD
On Mar 23, 2014 7:11 AM, "Tony Wroblewski"  wrote:

> Has anyone on the list used the Actisense NGW-1 for a bridge to connect
> older 0183 instruments to a 2000 network.  The plan is to use a B&G 390
> system (NMEA 0183 v. 1.5) to feed wind, speed, depth and heading data to
> B&G Zeus Touch on the 2000 bus.
>
> The other alternative is to use a Tinley 0183 New2Old converter,.  Same
> question.  Has anyone done this. I'm told the Tinley will convert a ver.
> 1.5 to ver. 3.0 and the Zeus can also take a ver. 3.0 input.
>
> Tony
> Triumph
> C&C 41 '86 c/b
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List : winch replacement

[Jim Watts]

Tim, it depends on how you are sailing the boat. If you have strong crew,
you can get by with lower power or you can luff up and make it easy to suck
it in. I singlehand a lot, and make my wife tack the genny when we sail
together, so extra power is good. Even so, grinding in the 135 the last few
inches can be tedious.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 22 March 2014 18:27, Tim Goodyear  wrote:

> It seems the Lewmar 44 (44:1) is an almost exact replacement for the
> Barient 28 (42.6:1).  I have been thinking about the Winchmate self
> tailers, but $500 will still leave old gears and bearings; $400 more would
> in my mind be a pretty good value to replace those too.  Jim, the 28's are
> about on the limit, but they have worked for me for the last few years -
> did you need the increased power or find it useful?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 22, 2014 at 6:57 PM, Jim Watts wrote:
>
>> I replaced the original Barients (I can't remember, I think they were
>> 25's) with Lewmar ST48's. If I could have got the same kind of deal on 52's
>> I would have done it. I wouldn't be happy with 44's.
>>
>> My Barient catalogue shows the 28+ as 42.6:1 with a 10" handle, not sure
>> if it's exactly the same winch as the 28.
>>
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>>
>> On 22 March 2014 14:46, Rick Brass  wrote:
>>
>>>   IIRC the Barient 28 is about equivalent to a Lewmar 48 or 54 in terms
>>> of power ratio.
>>>
>>> Have you thought about converting your Barients to self tailers.
>>> Winchmate makes a conversion kit for $500 - 550 per winch. Practical Sailor
>>> gave a favorable review and I've talked to a couple of people who have them
>>> and like them.
>>>
>>> Rick Brass
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> > On Mar 22, 2014, at 17:14, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
>>> >
>>> > I saw some Lewmar Astor 44 ST winches for sale at $900 at Defender
>>> yesterday (they may be gone).  Does anyone have an opinion on tees for
>>> primary winches on a 35-3 (currently with non-ST Barient 28s)?
>>> >
>>> > Thanks,
>>> >
>>> > Tim
>>> > Mojito
>>> > C&C 35-3
>>> > Branford, CT
>>> > ___
>>> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Boat AC Outlets

[Ken Heaton]

Hello Edd,

In one of my former lives I worked as a Journeyman Construction &
Maintenance Electrician.  One of those Tradesman guys.

I really don't think there is such a thing as a marine GFI.  Just buy brand
some name GFI's and install them.  They may not last more than 8 or 10
years in that environment but they're relatively cheap so no great loss.

On the other hand, if you do want to spend money, the GFCI's on pages 20
and 21 of this Hubbell Brochure are some of the best out there:
http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/press/pdfs/h5254.pdf

I wouldn't bother with the tamper resistant ones, I find that feature
annoying.

Ken H.


On 23 March 2014 19:41, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> Listers,
>
> It looks like the Enterprise's AC system has suffered some corrosion over
> the winter and I'm thinking of doing a bit of an overhaul, including
> replacing some of the outlets on board with GFI ones that will stand up to
> a marine environment.
>
> Anyone have a recommendation on the best outlets to buy? Looks like
> Defender and West Marine don't sell any. Links would be appreciated.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.332.1671  | Fax
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 5
>
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Stus-List Cheaper Tether

[bobmor99 .]

I'll be crewing in a few weeks on my first multi-night offshore passage.
Among the items I need to procure are a harness and tether.
Marine tethers seem very overpriced so I've been looking into mountain
climbing gear substitutes.
Any concerns mating these carabiners:

http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-Neutrino-Carabiner_10003048_10208_1001_-1_

with these runners (thinking of a 120 cm coupled with a 240 cm (total of 3
carabiners)):

http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-10mm-Dynex-Runners_10031236_10208_1001_-1_

to make a tether?

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List : winch replacement

[Tim Goodyear]

Thanks Jim, I'm servicing the 28's next weekend.  If they're not great inside, 
that's probably the way I'll go. The winch monkeys are pretty strong, and we 
tend to cruise with the 110%.

Tim

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 8:57 PM, Jim Watts  wrote:
> 
> Tim, it depends on how you are sailing the boat. If you have strong crew, you 
> can get by with lower power or you can luff up and make it easy to suck it 
> in. I singlehand a lot, and make my wife tack the genny when we sail 
> together, so extra power is good. Even so, grinding in the 135 the last few 
> inches can be tedious.
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
> 
>> On 22 March 2014 18:27, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
>> It seems the Lewmar 44 (44:1) is an almost exact replacement for the Barient 
>> 28 (42.6:1).  I have been thinking about the Winchmate self tailers, but 
>> $500 will still leave old gears and bearings; $400 more would in my mind be 
>> a pretty good value to replace those too.  Jim, the 28's are about on the 
>> limit, but they have worked for me for the last few years - did you need the 
>> increased power or find it useful?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Tim
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Mar 22, 2014 at 6:57 PM, Jim Watts  wrote:
>>> I replaced the original Barients (I can't remember, I think they were 25's) 
>>> with Lewmar ST48's. If I could have got the same kind of deal on 52's I 
>>> would have done it. I wouldn't be happy with 44's.
>>> 
>>> My Barient catalogue shows the 28+ as 42.6:1 with a 10" handle, not sure if 
>>> it's exactly the same winch as the 28.
>>> 
>>> Jim Watts
>>> Paradigm Shift
>>> C&C 35 Mk III
>>> Victoria, BC
>>> 
>>> 
 On 22 March 2014 14:46, Rick Brass  wrote:
   IIRC the Barient 28 is about equivalent to a Lewmar 48 or 54 in terms of 
 power ratio.
 
 Have you thought about converting your Barients to self tailers. Winchmate 
 makes a conversion kit for $500 - 550 per winch. Practical Sailor gave a 
 favorable review and I've talked to a couple of people who have them and 
 like them.
 
 Rick Brass
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 > On Mar 22, 2014, at 17:14, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
 >
 > I saw some Lewmar Astor 44 ST winches for sale at $900 at Defender 
 > yesterday (they may be gone).  Does anyone have an opinion on tees for 
 > primary winches on a 35-3 (currently with non-ST Barient 28s)?
 >
 > Thanks,
 >
 > Tim
 > Mojito
 > C&C 35-3
 > Branford, CT
 > ___
 > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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> 
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Stus-List gfi prevent dangerious shocks when using household, appliances on boat

[Jimmy Kelly]

gfi needs to be on only first outlet on  alternating current
line...probably have more than one line ...an extra gfi  in the line is
good way to keep spare,,,with gfi more you pay  perhaps more you get
 ..however..all must meet american standards which require d to be employed
in damp areas...not to be negative get ones built in usa  or germany where
mfg. standards tend to be more regulated than possible cheaper 3rd world
 countrieshave had gfi on all 6 independent lines...while at it
consider home also  bathroom  , kitchen ,workshop.mine have kicked off a
few times over the past years . easy reset if nothing wrong on line
..usually winter dampness if living aboard with electric heaters...
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Re: Stus-List Boat AC Outlets

[Chuck S]

Edd, 
I have read several articles on AC power verses DC power on boats and believe 
the AC power can be kept separate, should be kept separarte. It's a project I 
keep working on. I believe the AC system can include household GFI outlets and 
be grounded to the engine block, nothing else. 

Chuck 


- Original Message -

From: "Edd Schillay"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 6:41:07 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Boat AC Outlets 

Listers, 

It looks like the Enterprise's AC system has suffered some corrosion over the 
winter and I'm thinking of doing a bit of an overhaul, including replacing some 
of the outlets on board with GFI ones that will stand up to a marine 
environment. 

Anyone have a recommendation on the best outlets to buy? Looks like Defender 
and West Marine don't sell any. Links would be appreciated. 


All the best, 

Edd 

--- 
Edd M. Schillay 
Starship Enterprise 
NCC-1701-B 
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY 
www.StarshipSailing.com 
--- 
914.332.4400 | Office 
914.332.1671 | Fax 
914.774.9767 | Mobile 
--- 
Sent via iPhone 5 

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Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37

[Martin "Mac" McKenzie]

Michael,


That is pretty much my set up. My handle is a small cast piece and only sticks 
out about 3 inches.

Thanks,

Mac 
Worthy Pearl 
1983 C&C 37


Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2014 19:40:05 -0400
From: Michael Brown 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37
Message-ID: <4048378453-7...@mail.tkg.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Mac, if this is what you have I can give you detailed instructions.

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7005

I have most of mine sitting on my worktable.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


From: Rick Brass  
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift cable removal 1983 C&C 37 
Message-ID: <6a4bb830-2612-4ddf-8085-6520ea070...@earthlink.net> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 

I'm not sure the able wii come out the bottom. On my boat the two levers neded 
to be removed from the mechanism, and then the cables came out the top after 
the screws retaining the cable sheaths wears removed. 

Rick Brass 

Sent from my iPad 

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 0:51, Rich Knowles  wrote: 
>  
> On mine, there is a screw through the side of the top of the tube housing the 
> cable that attaches the end of the cable jacket to the inside of the tube. 
> Check to see if you have that screw and undo it. That should allow the cable 
> to be pulled out the bottom of the cockpit sole.  
>  
> Rich 
>  
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 1:22, "Martin \"Mac\" McKenzie"  
>> wrote: 
>>  
>> HI all, 
>>  
>> I have a stiff shift cable on my C&C. I have the separate shift and throttle 
>> on either side of the pedestal guard not on the pedestal itself. The cable 
>> runs up the stainless tube. Has any one ever tried to replace this cable? 
>>  
>> I cannot figure out how the cable is attached inside the tube. I have 
>> disconnected the shift lever so the cable is free at that end. There is no 
>> way I can pull the cable out from underneath. 
>>  
>> I know it's the cable that is stiff and not the linkages or transmission. 
>>  
>> Any ideas? 
>> ? 
>> Mac 
>> Worthy Pearl 
>> 1983 C&C 37  
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Re: Stus-List Cheaper Tether

[Chuck S]

FWIW, It's your life so you decide. I found a $35 climbing harness fit me 
better than a Spinlock harness at 5 times that price, and use that to climb the 
mast. 
For sailing offshore, I chose tethers that have snapschackles at each end. 
Caribiners have a place, but not on lifejacket/harness tethers. You want the 
quick release available with the newer tethers. 

Chuck 



- Original Message -

From: "bobmor99 ."  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 9:29:32 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Cheaper Tether 

I'll be crewing in a few weeks on my first multi-night offshore passage. Among 
the items I need to procure are a harness and tether. 
Marine tethers seem very overpriced so I've been looking into mountain climbing 
gear substitutes. 
Any concerns mating these carabiners: 

http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-Neutrino-Carabiner_10003048_10208_1001_-1_
 

with these runners (thinking of a 120 cm coupled with a 240 cm (total of 3 
carabiners)): 

http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-10mm-Dynex-Runners_10031236_10208_1001_-1_
 

to make a tether? 

Bob M 
Ox 33-1 
Jax, FL 

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Re: Stus-List Boat AC Outlets

[Rich Knowles]

FWIW GFCI's in a marine environment can be a real nuisance when they trip 
due to small leakage currents caused by humidity and salt etc. They are 
generally not required by electrical code on shore power outlets and in RV 
parks. On board one in each AC branch circuit is adequate as a string of 
outlets can be run off and be protected by one GFCI. 

Rich

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 22:24, Ken Heaton  wrote:
> 
> Hello Edd,
> 
> In one of my former lives I worked as a Journeyman Construction & Maintenance 
> Electrician.  One of those Tradesman guys.
> 
> I really don't think there is such a thing as a marine GFI.  Just buy brand 
> some name GFI's and install them.  They may not last more than 8 or 10 years 
> in that environment but they're relatively cheap so no great loss.
> 
> On the other hand, if you do want to spend money, the GFCI's on pages 20 and 
> 21 of this Hubbell Brochure are some of the best out there: 
> http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/press/pdfs/h5254.pdf
> 
> I wouldn't bother with the tamper resistant ones, I find that feature 
> annoying.
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> 
>> On 23 March 2014 19:41, Edd Schillay  wrote:
>> Listers,
>> 
>> It looks like the Enterprise's AC system has suffered some corrosion over 
>> the winter and I'm thinking of doing a bit of an overhaul, including 
>> replacing some of the outlets on board with GFI ones that will stand up to a 
>> marine environment. 
>> 
>> Anyone have a recommendation on the best outlets to buy? Looks like Defender 
>> and West Marine don't sell any. Links would be appreciated. 
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> ---
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> NCC-1701-B
>> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
>> www.StarshipSailing.com
>> ---
>> 914.332.4400  | Office
>> 914.332.1671  | Fax
>> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
>> ---
>> Sent via iPhone 5
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Cheaper Tether

[Russ & Melody]

Hi Bob,

No problem using the Dynex runner.

I suggest getting a locking carbiner, something like this for the 
"boat side" of the tether

http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-Positron-Screwgate-Carabiner_10003065_10208_1001_-1_

and using a spare snap shackle for you personal side of the tether. I 
used locking carbiners for many years and found if I kept 'em 
properly lube then I could open it with one hand (no gloves though).


And for a few nights cruise you probably won't need a quick release 
on the body side of the tether anyhow... :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 06:29 PM 23/03/2014, you wrote:
I'll be crewing in a few weeks on my first multi-night offshore 
passage. Among the items I need to procure are a harness and tether.
Marine tethers seem very overpriced so I've been looking into 
mountain climbing gear substitutes.

Any concerns mating these carabiners:

http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-Neutrino-Carabiner_10003048_10208_1001_-1_

with these runners (thinking of a 120 cm coupled with a 240 cm 
(total of 3 carabiners)):


http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-10mm-Dynex-Runners_10031236_10208_1001_-1_

to make a tether?

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List : winch replacement

[Russ & Melody]

Wow, Jim.

I can learn a few things from you... I can't "make" my wife, Melody, 
do anything. It gets done 'cause she wants it to be done. :)

But I will try the next time we're out, if she lets me steer.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:57 PM 23/03/2014, you wrote:
Tim, it depends on how you are sailing the boat. If you have strong 
crew, you can get by with lower power or you can luff up and make it 
easy to suck it in. I singlehand a lot, and make my wife tack the 
genny when we sail together, so extra power is good. Even so, 
grinding in the 135 the last few inches can be tedious.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

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