Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

[dwight]

Thanks Chuck

 

Yes I know about that.  What I don't know is why mine are called 28+.mine
are self tailing winches and maybe the self tailing part is why the +
designation.I don't think there is a manual on the photoalbum site for
Barient 28+ winches but in all other respects besides the self tailing part
my 28+ winches seem exactly the same as the 28's.  My second sheet winches
are Barient 26's which I believe were standard when the boat left the
factory.all 4 sheet winches run fine but I have not cleaned and lubed them
in about 10 years so it's high time I attend to that.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: January 24, 2014 9:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

 

Hi Dwight,
You probably already know this.  
I recently learned the trick to do the 28's is to remove the drum to remove
four allen head screws to remove the whole winch from the base.  
Brought them home and I work on them where it's warm.   

Reading the Barient maintenance article on Stu's website I learned   ". . .
the drum can be used as a holder for the inverted gear housing.  Insert the
stem of the gear housing into the top of the drum."   How sweet is that?
It's so nice to have the winches home, in a controlled environment where
nothing can get lost overboard.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

  _  

 

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Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

[dwight]

Well, it would be nice to have a "pair and a spare" but I am expecting from
my experience that the job of cleaning and lubricating one winch might take
about 2 hours or less.and I know there are lots of little parts that I have
to make sure don't get away.am I being over optimistic on how long this job
may take for each winch.I am thinking a nice warm day in the sun before
launch might do the trick.winch day let's call it, because I have been a bad
boy and have not attend to my sheet winches in a long time (10 years) and I
don't know when they may last have been done but they still work fine.I
expect that they will work much easier after I am finished

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: January 24, 2014 10:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

 

Go ya one better.  I actually have a spare gear case for my Barlow 28's,
cleaned, lubed and ready to go.  I pull one off the boat, slap in the spare
and bring the "dirty" one home for maintenance.  It then goes back to
replace the other "dirty" one which then becomes the clean spare.  The
Barlow and Barient 28's are nearly identical.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

 

 


  _  


From: Chuck S 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

 

Hi Dwight,
You probably already know this.  
I recently learned the trick to do the 28's is to remove the drum to remove
four allen head screws to remove the whole winch from the base.  
Brought them home and I work on them where it's warm.   

Reading the Barient maintenance article on Stu's website I learned   ". . .
the drum can be used as a holder for the inverted gear housing.  Insert the
stem of the gear housing into the top of the drum."   How sweet is that?
It's so nice to have the winches home, in a controlled environment where
nothing can get lost overboard.





Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _  


 

 

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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

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Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

[Chuck S]

Dwight, 
The first winch may take you a while to gather all the necessary tools and 
develop your technique. The second one will go much quicker. 
Truth be told, I haven't cleaned and lubed my 28s properly for at least 5 yrs. 
They aren't self tailing and I only use them when racing w crew. 
They didn't look too bad inside after such a long time. It's been 2 seasons 
since I lubed my 21ST halyard winches and my 27ST winches by the wheel. 
I find it hard to get much of this maintenance stuff done in the Spring. Too 
many distractions from other skippers and last minute projects before launch. 
In the Spring, I focus on the toerail to toerail maintenance and anything above 
the toerail waits till after launch. 

Tools you'll need: 
The Barient tool to remove the drum retaining nut 
Set of allen wrenches; 5/16, 1/4", 3/16" 
Two large flat screw drivers to pry the one plate off 
Solvent; diesel fuel or kerosene to clean the old grease off 
Brushes; sash brush or parts brush, old tooth brush, acid brush 
Rags for wiping 
Bucket or two to hold solvent and soak parts 
Cardboard boxes to set your grease and dirty stuff, protects the deck. 
Winch grease for gears and bearings 
Machine oil (3-in-1) for the pawls and springs. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "dwight"  
To: "Dennis C." , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 3:09:15 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28 




Well, it would be nice to have a “pair and a spare” but I am expecting from my 
experience that the job of cleaning and lubricating one winch might take about 
2 hours or less…and I know there are lots of little parts that I have to make 
sure don’t get away…am I being over optimistic on how long this job may take 
for each winch…I am thinking a nice warm day in the sun before launch might do 
the trick…winch day let’s call it, because I have been a bad boy and have not 
attend to my sheet winches in a long time (10 years) and I don’t know when they 
may last have been done but they still work fine…I expect that they will work 
much easier after I am finished 






From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
Sent: January 24, 2014 10:31 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28 




Go ya one better. I actually have a spare gear case for my Barlow 28's, 
cleaned, lubed and ready to go. I pull one off the boat, slap in the spare and 
bring the "dirty" one home for maintenance. It then goes back to replace the 
other "dirty" one which then becomes the clean spare. The Barlow and Barient 
28's are nearly identical. 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 














From: Chuck S  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28 







Hi Dwight, 
You probably already know this. 
I recently learned the trick to do the 28's is to remove the drum to remove 
four allen head screws to remove the whole winch from the base. 
Brought them home and I work on them where it's warm. 

Reading the Barient maintenance article on Stu's website I learned ". . . the 
drum can be used as a holder for the inverted gear housing. Insert the stem of 
the gear housing into the top of the drum." How sweet is that? It's so nice to 
have the winches home, in a controlled environment where nothing can get lost 
overboard. 







Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 








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Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

[dwight]

Thanks Chuck

 

I got all the stuff.the special Barient tool is not really necessary.  I
have an adjustable tool that I use to open the fuel, water and waste filler
caps and I checked last fall.it works fine to remove the drum retaining
nut.I inherited that tool with the boat so who knows it may be the Barient
tool you refer to.but it serves 2 purposes for me.have you ever heard of
Barient 28+ winches before, that is how my winches are labeled. 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: January 25, 2014 7:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

 

Dwight,
The first winch may take you a while to gather all the necessary tools and
develop your technique.  The second one will go much quicker.  
Truth be told, I haven't cleaned and lubed my 28s properly for at least 5
yrs.   They aren't self tailing and I only use them when racing w crew.  
They didn't look too bad inside after such a long time.  It's been 2 seasons
since I lubed my 21ST halyard winches and my 27ST winches by the wheel.  
I find it hard to get much of this maintenance stuff done in the Spring.
Too many distractions from other skippers and last minute projects before
launch.  In the Spring, I focus on the toerail to toerail maintenance and
anything above the toerail waits till after launch.  

Tools you'll need:
The Barient tool to remove the drum retaining nut
Set of allen wrenches; 5/16, 1/4", 3/16" 
Two large flat screw drivers to pry the one plate off
Solvent; diesel fuel or kerosene to clean the old grease off  
Brushes; sash brush or parts brush, old tooth brush, acid brush
Rags for wiping
Bucket or two to hold solvent and soak parts
Cardboard boxes to set your grease and dirty stuff, protects the deck. 
Winch grease for gears and bearings
Machine oil (3-in-1) for the pawls and springs.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

  _  

From: "dwight" 
To: "Dennis C." , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 3:09:15 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

Well, it would be nice to have a "pair and a spare" but I am expecting from
my experience that the job of cleaning and lubricating one winch might take
about 2 hours or less.and I know there are lots of little parts that I have
to make sure don't get away.am I being over optimistic on how long this job
may take for each winch.I am thinking a nice warm day in the sun before
launch might do the trick.winch day let's call it, because I have been a bad
boy and have not attend to my sheet winches in a long time (10 years) and I
don't know when they may last have been done but they still work fine.I
expect that they will work much easier after I am finished

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: January 24, 2014 10:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

 

Go ya one better.  I actually have a spare gear case for my Barlow 28's,
cleaned, lubed and ready to go.  I pull one off the boat, slap in the spare
and bring the "dirty" one home for maintenance.  It then goes back to
replace the other "dirty" one which then becomes the clean spare.  The
Barlow and Barient 28's are nearly identical.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

 

 


  _  


From: Chuck S 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

 

Hi Dwight,
You probably already know this.  
I recently learned the trick to do the 28's is to remove the drum to remove
four allen head screws to remove the whole winch from the base.  
Brought them home and I work on them where it's warm.   

Reading the Barient maintenance article on Stu's website I learned   ". . .
the drum can be used as a holder for the inverted gear housing.  Insert the
stem of the gear housing into the top of the drum."   How sweet is that?
It's so nice to have the winches home, in a controlled environment where
nothing can get lost overboard.

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _  


 

 

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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 


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Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

[Rich Knowles]

And don't forget to cut a hole in the bottom of a cardboard box to fit over the 
winch while you pull the drum. Those pawls love water. 

Rich

> On Jan 25, 2014, at 7:50, "dwight"  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Chuck
>  
> I got all the stuff…the special Barient tool is not really necessary.  I have 
> an adjustable tool that I use to open the fuel, water and waste filler caps 
> and I checked last fall…it works fine to remove the drum retaining nut…I 
> inherited that tool with the boat so who knows it may be the Barient tool you 
> refer to…but it serves 2 purposes for me…have you ever heard of Barient 28+ 
> winches before, that is how my winches are labeled.
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
> Sent: January 25, 2014 7:43 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28
>  
> Dwight,
> The first winch may take you a while to gather all the necessary tools and 
> develop your technique.  The second one will go much quicker.  
> Truth be told, I haven't cleaned and lubed my 28s properly for at least 5 
> yrs.   They aren't self tailing and I only use them when racing w crew.  
> They didn't look too bad inside after such a long time.  It's been 2 seasons 
> since I lubed my 21ST halyard winches and my 27ST winches by the wheel.  
> I find it hard to get much of this maintenance stuff done in the Spring.  Too 
> many distractions from other skippers and last minute projects before launch. 
>  In the Spring, I focus on the toerail to toerail maintenance and anything 
> above the toerail waits till after launch.  
> 
> Tools you'll need:
> The Barient tool to remove the drum retaining nut
> Set of allen wrenches; 5/16, 1/4", 3/16" 
> Two large flat screw drivers to pry the one plate off
> Solvent; diesel fuel or kerosene to clean the old grease off  
> Brushes; sash brush or parts brush, old tooth brush, acid brush
> Rags for wiping
> Bucket or two to hold solvent and soak parts
> Cardboard boxes to set your grease and dirty stuff, protects the deck. 
> Winch grease for gears and bearings
> Machine oil (3-in-1) for the pawls and springs.
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> From: "dwight" 
> To: "Dennis C." , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 3:09:15 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28
> 
> Well, it would be nice to have a “pair and a spare” but I am expecting from 
> my experience that the job of cleaning and lubricating one winch might take 
> about 2 hours or less…and I know there are lots of little parts that I have 
> to make sure don’t get away…am I being over optimistic on how long this job 
> may take for each winch…I am thinking a nice warm day in the sun before 
> launch might do the trick…winch day let’s call it, because I have been a bad 
> boy and have not attend to my sheet winches in a long time (10 years) and I 
> don’t know when they may last have been done but they still work fine…I 
> expect that they will work much easier after I am finished
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
> Sent: January 24, 2014 10:31 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28
>  
> Go ya one better.  I actually have a spare gear case for my Barlow 28's, 
> cleaned, lubed and ready to go.  I pull one off the boat, slap in the spare 
> and bring the "dirty" one home for maintenance.  It then goes back to replace 
> the other "dirty" one which then becomes the clean spare.  The Barlow and 
> Barient 28's are nearly identical.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>  
>  
> From: Chuck S 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28
>  
> Hi Dwight,
> You probably already know this.  
> I recently learned the trick to do the 28's is to remove the drum to remove 
> four allen head screws to remove the whole winch from the base.  
> Brought them home and I work on them where it's warm.   
> 
> Reading the Barient maintenance article on Stu's website I learned   ". . .  
> the drum can be used as a holder for the inverted gear housing.  Insert the 
> stem of the gear housing into the top of the drum."   How sweet is that?  
> It's so nice to have the winches home, in a controlled environment where 
> nothing can get lost overboard.
>  
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
>  
>  
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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>  
> 
> 
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Stus-List Fw: Installing Refrigeration on a C&C 35 Mk3 + insulation

[Persuasion]

Stus-List Installing Refrigeration on a C&C 35 Mk3Jake

Please post the video on youtube.  I’ve always wondered what was in there

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Jake Brodersen 
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 5:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing Refrigeration on a C&C 35 Mk3 + insulation

Dwight,

 

The foam I added to the top of the ice box helps prevent condensation on the 
counter.  I still get some over the lid, which I didn’t change.  I would rather 
drill holes from outside the box, than the inside.  They’re easily hidden under 
the sink, but a little more obvious by the stove.  I’m not sure how much of a 
cavity it there to fill anyway.  Spray foam can exert a lot of pressure, so be 
careful.  I have seen it buckle walls in houses.  I have a small round access 
plate below the stove on the left side of the ice box.  I can reach the drain 
hose.  I may be able to stick my inspection camera (boroscope) in there to 
check it out.  

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2014 8:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing Refrigeration on a C&C 35 Mk3

 

Jake

 

I have an almost identical setup for the Adler Barbour on Alianna.  In your 
case, did the added Styrofoam insulation make a significant difference?  Have 
you added any insulation around the sides or on the bottom of the icebox?

 

I am considering adding polyurethane spray foam insulation…I wonder if drilling 
holes from inside out through the ice box to insert the nozzle would be a 
reasonable way to do that…would the foam trap water that could cause 
problems…how many cans would I need etc. ?  

 




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Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

[Jake Brodersen]

Dwight,

 

I have both the 28 and 28+ on my boat.  The 28+ has a larger drum diameter.
I have custom winch covers, so if I get them mixed up the 28 covers won't
fit on the 28+ winches.  The 28's are used as my primary winches (fwd part
of cockpit), although I do use the 28+ when I single hand.  The winches are
right next to the wheel.  Very convenient.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 3:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

 

Thanks Chuck

 

Yes I know about that.  What I don't know is why mine are called 28+.mine
are self tailing winches and maybe the self tailing part is why the +
designation.I don't think there is a manual on the photoalbum site for
Barient 28+ winches but in all other respects besides the self tailing part
my 28+ winches seem exactly the same as the 28's.  My second sheet winches
are Barient 26's which I believe were standard when the boat left the
factory.all 4 sheet winches run fine but I have not cleaned and lubed them
in about 10 years so it's high time I attend to that.

 

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Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow

[Wally Bryant]

Absolutely.  I think that hours of heat on that hose/mixer elbow 
connection makes it impossible to remove without cutting it off.  I keep 
a section of 2" exhaust hose stuck in the back of the boat, just in case 
I need to do it again. Maybe next time I'll try some Permatex #2 gasket 
sealant, which handles extended high temps without getting crusty.  
There's always something new to try and figure out.


Wal

John Russo wrote:

The hardest part was the short hose interfacing
the elbow with the muffler and I had a problem removing and reconnecting.
There doesn't appear to be any short cuts unless you are willing to cut off
the interface hose and replace it with a new one.



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Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

[Wally Bryant]

If you lose a spring... 
 I used 
.018 diameter wire, which is a little thicker than the original spring 
wire, but I didn't want to go buy more.  It fits, and has worked 
perfectly for 10 years.  Still have the wire on the boat.  It beats the 
heck out of spending $50 for a little packet of 5 spares.


Wal

Rich Knowles wrote:

Those pawls love water.



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Re: Stus-List Advice Wanted: Cleaning out a Fuel Tank C&C 30mkII

[Frank]

Kevin,

Yes, that is the stuff from Star brite.  In my opinion it does what they 
advertise.

I always carry at least 5 filters off shore.  

Before the first time I went off shore I did the exact same process Matt used 
to polish fuel.  It didn't keep the filters from clogging.  If you never get 
into rough conditions, you may never clog a filter with gunk from the bottom of 
the tank.  I have sailed on two other boats, off shore, that experienced 
clogged filters as a result of sailing/motoring in rough conditions.  

I will not be at the SYSCO meeting.  I am in San Diego that night.

Frank Noragon
S/V Cool Change
C&C 38LF, S/N 001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon

From: Kevin Driscoll 
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 2:51 PM
To: Frank ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice Wanted: Cleaning out a Fuel Tank C&C 30mkII

Great advice Frank! Your experience of changing the filters off shore is 
exactly why I hope to get ahead the issue, in advance of our planned trip to 
the San Juan's in July. Sounds like I should increase my inventory of spare 
filters beyond the two that I currently carry.  

Was this the Starbrite tank cleaner product you used? 
http://www.starbrite.com/item/star-tron-tank-cleaner?category_id=699


Coincidentally I am doing some arm chair sailing today from the office and just 
listened to this podcast interview w/ Matt Rutherford, who describes trying to 
salvage an abandoned 48 Swan. He mentions attempting to polish diesel by 
disconnecting the fuel line on the engine side of the filter and then pumping 
the diesel through the filter and into Jerry cans and repeating the process a 
number of times. Interesting technique.

Frank, will you be at the SYSCO meeting Monday at RYC?

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Re: Stus-List Advice Wanted: Cleaning out a Fuel Tank C&C 30mkII

[dwight]

A good idea to carry spare fuel filters but I think not such a good way to
clean a dirty fuel tank.if it works for you fine but I do not like the job
of changing fuel filters so I try extra hard to get clean fuel and polish
that while pouring into the tank.fuel filters last a long time if you are
able to do it that way.mine have not been changed in more than 5 years.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frank
Sent: January 25, 2014 10:16 AM
To: Kevin Driscoll; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice Wanted: Cleaning out a Fuel Tank C&C 30mkII

 

Kevin,

 

Yes, that is the stuff from Star brite.  In my opinion it does what they
advertise.

 

I always carry at least 5 filters off shore.  

 

Before the first time I went off shore I did the exact same process Matt
used to polish fuel.  It didn't keep the filters from clogging.  If you
never get into rough conditions, you may never clog a filter with gunk from
the bottom of the tank.  I have sailed on two other boats, off shore, that
experienced clogged filters as a result of sailing/motoring in rough
conditions.  

 

I will not be at the SYSCO meeting.  I am in San Diego that night.

 

Frank Noragon

S/V Cool Change

C&C 38LF, S/N 001

Rose City Yacht Club

Portland, Oregon

 

From: Kevin   Driscoll 

Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 2:51 PM

To: Frank   ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice Wanted: Cleaning out a Fuel Tank C&C 30mkII

 

Great advice Frank! Your experience of changing the filters off shore is
exactly why I hope to get ahead the issue, in advance of our planned trip to
the San Juan's in July. Sounds like I should increase my inventory of spare
filters beyond the two that I currently carry.  

 

Was this the Starbrite tank cleaner product you used? 

http://www.starbrite.com/item/star-tron-tank-cleaner?category_id=699

 

Coincidentally I am doing some arm chair sailing today from the office and
just listened to this
  podcast interview w/ Matt Rutherford, who describes trying
to salvage an abandoned 48 Swan. He mentions attempting to polish diesel by
disconnecting the fuel line on the engine side of the filter and then
pumping the diesel through the filter and into Jerry cans and repeating the
process a number of times. Interesting technique.

 

Frank, will you be at the SYSCO meeting Monday at RYC?


 

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Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

[Rich Knowles]

I've used guitar strings. B or G string works. 

Rich

> On Jan 25, 2014, at 10:13, Wally Bryant  wrote:
> 
> If you lose a spring... 
>  I used .018 
> diameter wire, which is a little thicker than the original spring wire, but I 
> didn't want to go buy more.  It fits, and has worked perfectly for 10 years.  
> Still have the wire on the boat.  It beats the heck out of spending $50 for a 
> little packet of 5 spares.
> 
> Wal
> 
> Rich Knowles wrote:
>> Those pawls love water.
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

[dwight]

I bet your winches really sound good

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: January 25, 2014 10:30 AM
To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

I've used guitar strings. B or G string works. 

Rich

> On Jan 25, 2014, at 10:13, Wally Bryant  wrote:
> 
> If you lose a spring...
 I used .018
diameter wire, which is a little thicker than the original spring wire, but
I didn't want to go buy more.  It fits, and has worked perfectly for 10
years.  Still have the wire on the boat.  It beats the heck out of spending
$50 for a little packet of 5 spares.
> 
> Wal
> 
> Rich Knowles wrote:
>> Those pawls love water.
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

[Rich Knowles]

When they're in tune:)

Rich

> On Jan 25, 2014, at 10:33, "dwight"  wrote:
> 
> I bet your winches really sound good
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
> Knowles
> Sent: January 25, 2014 10:30 AM
> To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28
> 
> I've used guitar strings. B or G string works. 
> 
> Rich
> 
>> On Jan 25, 2014, at 10:13, Wally Bryant  wrote:
>> 
>> If you lose a spring...
>  I used .018
> diameter wire, which is a little thicker than the original spring wire, but
> I didn't want to go buy more.  It fits, and has worked perfectly for 10
> years.  Still have the wire on the boat.  It beats the heck out of spending
> $50 for a little packet of 5 spares.
>> 
>> Wal
>> 
>> Rich Knowles wrote:
>>> Those pawls love water.
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

[sam . c . salter]

My b & g strings are nylon!   sam :-) From: Rich KnowlesSent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 7:29 AMTo: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28I've used guitar strings. B or G string works. Rich> On Jan 25, 2014, at 10:13, Wally Bryant  wrote:> > If you lose a spring...  I used .018 diameter wire, which is a little thicker than the original spring wire, but I didn't want to go buy more.  It fits, and has worked perfectly for 10 years.  Still have the wire on the boat.  It beats the heck out of spending $50 for a little packet of 5 spares.> > Wal> > Rich Knowles wrote:>> Those pawls love water.> > > ___> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com> CnC-List@cnc-list.com___This List is provided by the C&C Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Stus-List Otter Problem

[Tom B]

Yesterday we relocated Alera to our a Yacht Club's brand new docks.  We have 
been on the wait list there for years and this is closer and cheaper.  We were 
assigned a slip on the inside of the hammerhead at the end of the dock.  When 
we tied up I noticed a large amount of poop on the dock.  It looked bigger that 
any raccoon poop, like we had at our prior dock.  

As I was walking up I saw an otter on the dock.  Apparently it is very bold and 
seemed to be nearly domesticated by the way some of the guys were shooing it 
away with little effect.  

My research revealed that otters develop habitual latrine areas and will go 
back to the same spot, out of the water where they live, to crap. Apparently, 
our finger pier is that spot.

Any suggestions or crappy remarks are appreciated!

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
Vashon WA
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Re: Stus-List Otter Problem

[Dennis C.]

Ammonia water.

Dennis C.




>
> From: Tom B 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 11:26 AM
>Subject: Stus-List Otter Problem
> 
>
>Yesterday we relocated Alera to our a Yacht Club's brand new docks.  We have 
>been on the wait list there for years and this is closer and cheaper.  We were 
>assigned a slip on the inside of the hammerhead at the end of the dock.  When 
>we tied up I noticed a large amount of poop on the dock.  It looked bigger 
>that any raccoon poop, like we had at our prior dock.  
>
>As I was walking up I saw an otter on the dock.  Apparently it is very bold 
>and seemed to be nearly domesticated by the way some of the guys were shooing 
>it away with little effect.  
>
>My research revealed that otters develop habitual latrine areas and will go 
>back to the same spot, out of the water where they live, to crap. Apparently, 
>our finger pier is that spot.
>
>Any suggestions or crappy remarks are appreciated!
>
>Tom Buscaglia
>S/V Alera
>Vashon WA
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28, oh G

[Russ & Melody]

Hi Sam,

Try replacing your G string for silk. The Admiral seems to like them 
better than nylon :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:21 AM 25/01/2014, you wrote:

My b & g strings are nylon!

sam :-)
From: Rich Knowles
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 7:29 AM
To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

I've used guitar strings. B or G string works.

Rich

> On Jan 25, 2014, at 10:13, Wally Bryant  wrote:
>
> If you lose a spring... 
 I 
used .018 diameter wire, which is a little thicker than the 
original spring wire, but I didn't want to go buy more. It fits, 
and has worked perfectly for 10 years. Still have the wire on the 
boat. It beats the heck out of spending $50 for a little packet of 5 spares.

>
> Wal
>
> Rich Knowles wrote:
>> Those pawls love water.
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Datamarine Auction (Della Barba, Joe)

[Della Barba, Joe]

OK - we have $100 for the Photo Album so far :)

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Davidmidkiff
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 7:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Datamarine Auction (Della Barba, Joe)



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 10:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 96, Issue 149

I will get the Auction started with a bid of $100.00.  I am getting ready to 
take my mast down and my old wind unit is not working.  I had this system on my 
C&C 33 and was very happy with it.  I now have an older C&C 30 and am getting 
it into sailing condition.

David Midkiff
C&C30
Currently Joan D (soon to change)
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Re: Stus-List Datamarine Auction (Della Barba, Joe)

[D Harben]

$125 for the cncphotoalbum 

Don

Don Harben 

Life   C&C 29-1   www.ncyc.ca
   North Channel Yacht Club


> On Jan 25, 2014, at 12:52 PM, "Della Barba, Joe"  
> wrote:
> 
> OK - we have $100 for the Photo Album so far :)
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Davidmidkiff
> Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 7:54 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Datamarine Auction (Della Barba, Joe)
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 10:48 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 96, Issue 149
> 
> I will get the Auction started with a bid of $100.00.  I am getting ready to 
> take my mast down and my old wind unit is not working.  I had this system on 
> my C&C 33 and was very happy with it.  I now have an older C&C 30 and am 
> getting it into sailing condition.
> 
> David Midkiff
> C&C30
> Currently Joan D (soon to change)
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List Otter Problem

[Martin DeYoung]

Last winter we battled otters who decided pooping under Calypso's cover was 
cool.



After trying all the techniques listed on the St of Washington's wildlife web 
site, including rat traps, ammonia and loud sound(radio left on) the only thing 
that worked was a fence.



This year we have a plastic garden fence tied to the life lines bow to stern, 
including the gate.  The fence material is plastic and easy to cut to height.



The Shilshole river otter clan prefers to climb vs. jump onboard.  We do not 
put fencing where the deck is more than 3' off the water or dock.



Good luck in your battle.  The state wildlife info does warn that otters which 
can reach 80lbs can turn aggressive so some caution when approaching may be in 
order.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Dennis C. 
[capt...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 9:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Otter Problem

Ammonia water.

Dennis C.


From: Tom B 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 11:26 AM
Subject: Stus-List Otter Problem

Yesterday we relocated Alera to our a Yacht Club's brand new docks.  We have 
been on the wait list there for years and this is closer and cheaper.  We were 
assigned a slip on the inside of the hammerhead at the end of the dock.  When 
we tied up I noticed a large amount of poop on the dock.  It looked bigger that 
any raccoon poop, like we had at our prior dock.

As I was walking up I saw an otter on the dock.  Apparently it is very bold and 
seemed to be nearly domesticated by the way some of the guys were shooing it 
away with little effect.

My research revealed that otters develop habitual latrine areas and will go 
back to the same spot, out of the water where they live, to crap. Apparently, 
our finger pier is that spot.

Any suggestions or crappy remarks are appreciated!

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
Vashon WA
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Re: Stus-List Advice Wanted: Cleaning out a Fuel Tank C&C 30mkII

[Michael Brown]

I disconnect the vent line at the hull fitting, and the fuel line at the inlet 
to the filter.
The fuel line goes into an empty gas can. I connect an airgun from an air tank, 
a automotive
"pig" for inflating tires, to the vent line. I lightly pressurize the tank 
until the fuel is out,
then add a bit of fuel with stabilizer in it which I let sit for a while. Then 
I flush it out.

I have a gasoline engine, Atomic 4, so I can use the fuel in the snowblower or 
lawnmower.
So far, even using the "rinse" gasoline has not been a problem. I realize there 
is an
empty vs full for winter storage debate that has been going on for years. I 
have so little
fuel in the tank, and the idea of rinsing out the tank twice a year with fresh 
fuel make
storing empty OK for me.

I use the expensive grade of gasoline, supposedly some of the brands omit the 
ethanol in
their high test blends. The "rinse" gasoline is regular so it should absorb any 
water in the tank,
but adding some gas line antifreeze will not hurt.

For diesel you could try a rinse of diesel and methyl hydrate ( Kleen Flow ? ).

If the tank is coated with varnish, gum or sludge it needs to be steam cleaned.

During university a classmate had a job on a large freighter. He donned a 
protective suit
and air gear, then went into the fuel tank. There was a team working to clean 
them. It
started with big scrapers and shovels filling metal drums, then a steam 
cleaner. He described
the sediment to be like mud. I think the big ships use Bunker C for fuel, nasty 
stuff.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
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Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow

[ahycrace]

are all you guys talking about the yanmar 3gm30f engine?


 Gary Kolc
 Wally Bryant  wrote: 
> Absolutely.  I think that hours of heat on that hose/mixer elbow 
> connection makes it impossible to remove without cutting it off.  I keep 
> a section of 2" exhaust hose stuck in the back of the boat, just in case 
> I need to do it again. Maybe next time I'll try some Permatex #2 gasket 
> sealant, which handles extended high temps without getting crusty.  
> There's always something new to try and figure out.
> 
> Wal
> 
> John Russo wrote:
> > The hardest part was the short hose interfacing
> > the elbow with the muffler and I had a problem removing and reconnecting.
> > There doesn't appear to be any short cuts unless you are willing to cut off
> > the interface hose and replace it with a new one.
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Re: Stus-List Advice Wanted: Cleaning out a Fuel Tank C&C 30mkII

[dwight]

Same thing happens with naval distillate diesel fuel when microorganisms
start growing at a fuel water interface.the stuff on the tank walls is slimy
and so thick sometimes you can grab a handful of slime anywhere.we had such
problems in our Canadian navy and I have witnessed steam cleaning of those
large tanks on our 280 class ships; plugging of fuel filters or coalescer
units was a big issue and the sludge if it gets through can damage gas
turbine engine components by creating hot spots and subsequent burn through.
Only real solution is to keep the tanks dry, a near impossibility on
warships at least, so our navy implemented better fuel husbandry practices
and also experimented with adding biocides to the fuel.Biobor JF was one
that was trialed as I recall.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Brown
Sent: January 25, 2014 2:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice Wanted: Cleaning out a Fuel Tank C&C 30mkII

 


I disconnect the vent line at the hull fitting, and the fuel line at the
inlet to the filter.
The fuel line goes into an empty gas can. I connect an airgun from an air
tank, a automotive
"pig" for inflating tires, to the vent line. I lightly pressurize the tank
until the fuel is out,
then add a bit of fuel with stabilizer in it which I let sit for a while.
Then I flush it out.

I have a gasoline engine, Atomic 4, so I can use the fuel in the snowblower
or lawnmower.
So far, even using the "rinse" gasoline has not been a problem. I realize
there is an
empty vs full for winter storage debate that has been going on for years. I
have so little
fuel in the tank, and the idea of rinsing out the tank twice a year with
fresh fuel make
storing empty OK for me.

I use the expensive grade of gasoline, supposedly some of the brands omit
the ethanol in
their high test blends. The "rinse" gasoline is regular so it should absorb
any water in the tank,
but adding some gas line antifreeze will not hurt.

For diesel you could try a rinse of diesel and methyl hydrate ( Kleen Flow ?
).

If the tank is coated with varnish, gum or sludge it needs to be steam
cleaned.

During university a classmate had a job on a large freighter. He donned a
protective suit
and air gear, then went into the fuel tank. There was a team working to
clean them. It
started with big scrapers and shovels filling metal drums, then a steam
cleaner. He described
the sediment to be like mud. I think the big ships use Bunker C for fuel,
nasty stuff.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

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Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow

[ahycrace]

is this the mixing elbow everybody has?
http://www.oldportmarine.com/misc_gm_ym_uelbow_assy.htm

 
Gary
 ahycr...@cox.net wrote: 
> are all you guys talking about the yanmar 3gm30f engine?
> 
>   
>Gary Kolc
>  Wally Bryant  wrote: 
> > Absolutely.  I think that hours of heat on that hose/mixer elbow 
> > connection makes it impossible to remove without cutting it off.  I keep 
> > a section of 2" exhaust hose stuck in the back of the boat, just in case 
> > I need to do it again. Maybe next time I'll try some Permatex #2 gasket 
> > sealant, which handles extended high temps without getting crusty.  
> > There's always something new to try and figure out.
> > 
> > Wal
> > 
> > John Russo wrote:
> > > The hardest part was the short hose interfacing
> > > the elbow with the muffler and I had a problem removing and reconnecting.
> > > There doesn't appear to be any short cuts unless you are willing to cut 
> > > off
> > > the interface hose and replace it with a new one.
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow

[Jake Brodersen]

Looks just like mine.

Jake

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
ahycr...@cox.net
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 2:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow

is this the mixing elbow everybody has?
http://www.oldportmarine.com/misc_gm_ym_uelbow_assy.htm
 

Gary 


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Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow

[ahycrace]

The U elbow piece is ID  threaded and on my setup there is a 2" piece of 
standard black pipe threaded into it. Next is a 90 degree elbow then a 3" piece 
of pipe. That 3" piece of pipe has been turned down from an OD of 1 .650 to 
1.520. This piece is turned about 1.5 inches back. This allows the hose to the 
water muffler to slide on easily. Even after 20 years I was able to undo the 2 
clamps and slide the assembly off with no trouble. Pictures available.

 Gary 
 Jake Brodersen  wrote: 
> Looks just like mine.
> 
> Jake
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> ahycr...@cox.net
> Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 2:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow
> 
> is this the mixing elbow everybody has?
> http://www.oldportmarine.com/misc_gm_ym_uelbow_assy.htm
>  
> 
> Gary 
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28

[Wally Bryant]

YeAH.. (HANG ON i HAVE TO GO GET MY GLASSES TO FIND THE LOWERCASE KEY.)  



Okay, this is a true story.  More than a few years back some guy banged 
on my boat, and when I stuck my head out of the companionway he said, 
"Do You Have A G-String?"


I'm polite by nature, so just said "Ummm. No." but I was 
thinking "There's a Teddy in the V-Berth, but I'm sure it's not yours."


After a few minutes conversation, I realized he was looking for a guitar 
string.  I gave him six feet of my pawl spring wire.


Wal



Rich Knowles wrote:

I've used guitar strings. B or G string works.



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Stus-List Exhaust Hose

[Robert Abbott]

Gary:

What's your boat?

Mine is a 32 and I did not have to crawl under the cockpit sole.I 
did have to get into the engine compartment via the port lazarette to 
access the muffler connection and push the new hose back alongside the 
starboard hull to the transom where it loops up and goes down to the 
thru hull.  I had to take the propane locker out to access that thru hull.


If it starts leaking, you have no choice but to replace it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/01/24 8:36 PM, ahycr...@cox.net wrote:

Rob
   Yes I am talking about the hose from the muffler to the stern and that 
is my next project. I just can't see how I can get all the way to the back of 
the boat under the cockpit sole . I think it is just to small for me to wiggle 
al the way back there to undo it from the fitting. As for the hose, this stuff 
is probably original making is 37 years old. If I use the same stuff and it 
only lasts 30 years this time well I'll be 93 years old. Every hose I have will 
probably be broken.

 Gary

 Robert Abbott  wrote:

Gary:

Are you talking about your exhaust hose from the muffler back?  If it is
that old, it would be worth changing.  Mine was probably original, 1984,
probably 26 years old when it just showed signs of leaking from the
inside out.  A little seawater won't matter, but CO would be problematic
when motoring.

You should have, at the very least, marine grade exhaust hose, better
yet a marine grade hard walled hose.   The 'hard walled hose' is for a
good reason.it won't collapse.  That's what I used.

I replaced mine before I had the problem.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.






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Stus-List Mixing Elbow

[Robert Abbott]

Wal /John

I didn't even try to disconnect the short hose from the mixing elbow to 
the muffler..cut it with a drumel tool.quick, easy.and can 
be done with one hand!


Putting the new one on was more challengingbut after repeated 
attempts to bend that 'hard walled hose' and I heated it with a heat 
gun, I figured out how to get the leverage I needed to bend it onto the 
muffler intake.


Doing this stuff when you are contorted in ways you are not meant to be 
makes the beer afterwards all that more appreciated.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2014/01/25 10:04 AM, Wally Bryant wrote:
Absolutely. I think that hours of heat on that hose/mixer elbow 
connection makes it impossible to remove without cutting it off.  I 
keep a section of 2" exhaust hose stuck in the back of the boat, just 
in case I need to do it again. Maybe next time I'll try some Permatex 
#2 gasket sealant, which handles extended high temps without getting 
crusty.  There's always something new to try and figure out.


Wal

John Russo wrote:

The hardest part was the short hose interfacing
the elbow with the muffler and I had a problem removing and 
reconnecting.
There doesn't appear to be any short cuts unless you are willing to 
cut off

the interface hose and replace it with a new one.



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Stus-List Now Engine

[Robert Abbott]

Gary:

My engine is a Yanmar 2GMF.wish it was a 3gm30f.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/01/25 2:43 PM, ahycr...@cox.net wrote:

are all you guys talking about the yanmar 3gm30f engine?


  Gary Kolc
 Wally Bryant  wrote:

Absolutely.  I think that hours of heat on that hose/mixer elbow
connection makes it impossible to remove without cutting it off.  I keep
a section of 2" exhaust hose stuck in the back of the boat, just in case
I need to do it again. Maybe next time I'll try some Permatex #2 gasket
sealant, which handles extended high temps without getting crusty.
There's always something new to try and figure out.

Wal

John Russo wrote:

The hardest part was the short hose interfacing
the elbow with the muffler and I had a problem removing and reconnecting.
There doesn't appear to be any short cuts unless you are willing to cut off
the interface hose and replace it with a new one.


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Stus-List Mixing Elbow

[Robert Abbott]

Gary:

It's the same as mine.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2014/01/25 3:11 PM, ahycr...@cox.net wrote:

is this the mixing elbow everybody has?
http://www.oldportmarine.com/misc_gm_ym_uelbow_assy.htm
  
 Gary

 ahycr...@cox.net wrote:

are all you guys talking about the yanmar 3gm30f engine?


  Gary Kolc
 Wally Bryant  wrote:

Absolutely.  I think that hours of heat on that hose/mixer elbow
connection makes it impossible to remove without cutting it off.  I keep
a section of 2" exhaust hose stuck in the back of the boat, just in case
I need to do it again. Maybe next time I'll try some Permatex #2 gasket
sealant, which handles extended high temps without getting crusty.
There's always something new to try and figure out.

Wal

John Russo wrote:

The hardest part was the short hose interfacing
the elbow with the muffler and I had a problem removing and reconnecting.
There doesn't appear to be any short cuts unless you are willing to cut off
the interface hose and replace it with a new one.


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Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow

[Robert Abbott]

Gary:

Sure, please send me the pictures offline.email address 
robertabb...@eastlink.ca



I think I know what it looks like, and if I had done it that way, it 
would have been a lot easierbut I didn't think of it that way at the 
time.I thought, a piece of 18" hose came off and an 18" hose is 
going back on ...and it did but it was not easy.


Rob





On 2014/01/25 3:45 PM, ahycr...@cox.net wrote:

The U elbow piece is ID  threaded and on my setup there is a 2" piece of standard black 
pipe threaded into it. Next is a 90 degree elbow then a 3" piece of pipe. That 3" 
piece of pipe has been turned down from an OD of 1 .650 to 1.520. This piece is turned about 
1.5 inches back. This allows the hose to the water muffler to slide on easily. Even after 20 
years I was able to undo the 2 clamps and slide the assembly off with no trouble. Pictures 
available.

  Gary
 Jake Brodersen  wrote:

Looks just like mine.

Jake

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
ahycr...@cox.net
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 2:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow

is this the mixing elbow everybody has?
http://www.oldportmarine.com/misc_gm_ym_uelbow_assy.htm
  


 Gary


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Stus-List Mixing Elbow

[Robert Abbott]

On 2014/01/24 11:07 PM, John Russo wrote:."I just did this job last 
season and should get 5-7 years out of it."


John, you should expect your new exhaust system to last a lot longer 
that 5-7 years.  I don't expect to ever have to do this job again on my 
boat.the hoses I used are guaranteed for +10 years, the muffler is a 
Vernalift resin.the old mixing elbow I took off was used by me here 
in salt water for 7 seasons and it did not need to be replaced (neither 
did the SS muffler)obviously they were changed  before we bought the 
boat in 2006 but I didn't know that, so I replaced it all.


Agree, the hardest part was the 18" short piece of hose from the mixing 
elbow to the muffler.on my boat the hose has to be bent down of 
course, but with a slight " S " in it as the mixing elbow outlet is not 
lined up with the muffler intake...thus the need to " S " shape the 
hose...and it doesn't want to be shaped that way no matter how much heat 
your apply to it.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




Rob,

I have the identical boat and replaced the entire exhaust assembly and
essentially went through all the moves that you did working from behind and
then in front of the engine. The hardest part was the short hose interfacing
the elbow with the muffler and I had a problem removing and reconnecting.
There doesn't appear to be any short cuts unless you are willing to cut off
the interface hose and replace it with a new one. I just did this job last
season and should get 5-7 years out of it.

John
Arpeggio
Norwalk CT

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 7:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Stus-List Mixing Elbow

Jake:

Yes, I did remove the mixing elbow and exhaust flange together from the
exhaust manifold..it was the only way to remove the mixing elbowand
then it was challenge to separate the mixing elbow from the flange on a work
benchbut with patience and a little help of a pipe extension on the big
wrench, it separated.

My friend that helped had 'headless bolts' can I could hand screw into the
exhaust manifold to guide the combined exhaust flange and new mixing elbow
in place.  I put two in diagonally, put the other two diagonal permanent
bolts in, removed the two 'headless bolts' and put the next
two bolts intighten updone.   It helped when you are working on
your side left handed.  Also put in a new gasket between the flange and
manifold.

There was no problem with the exhaust hose from the muffler back to the thru
hull...other than standing on my head working on the thru hull connection.

The problem was connecting the short 18" hose from the mixing elbow to the
muffler..because of the angle to the two and the stiffness of the
'marine grade hard walled exhaust hose' I chose, for a long time I could not
connect the hose over one of the two.the angle and stiffness of the hose
and the fact I am not able to work with both hands adequately, made it a
frustrating jobI could get one on but not the
other.After multiple attempts, I attached the hose to the mixing
elbow and inserted a big flat head screw driver into the hose, which gave me
the leverage to bend it enough to begin to place it over the muffler
intakea few tries with the screw driver, success and it was now
beer time.

As with every first time job, if I were to do it again (which I hope I never
have to), I could do it with more know how and less frustration.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.







On 2014/01/24 6:26 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote:

Rob,

Working with exhaust hose can be very challenging.  When I replaced
mine, I used 90 degree fiberglass elbows.  It was far superior to the
kinked mess my boat came with.  They are much easier to put together
than a long piece of stiff hose.  I usually remove the mixing elbow
along with the exhaust manifold.  It's much easier to put them in a
vice on my bench than try to separate them on the boat.

Jake


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Robert Abbott
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2014 8:56 PM
To: ahycr...@cox.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Now Mixing Elbow

Gary:

Problem with changing the mixing elbow was the limited and awkward
space to work in on my boat..access is in through the port locker
into the engine compartmentaccess is restricted because of hot
water heater in the port locker (could be removed but I didn't, extra
work).mixing elbow in on the starboard side so I am lying on my
right side using my left hand.I am 'right handed'.

Ended up taking the mixing elbow off by working from the front of the
engine.  A friend had done it before and helped me.  He had "blank(s)"
or "bolts without heads" that could be screwed into the exhaust
manifold to guide and hold the mixing elbow in place while you
attached the perma

Re: Stus-List Datamarine Auction (Della Barba, Joe)

[Davidmidkiff]

$150.00

David E. Midkiff

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 5:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 96, Issue 158

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Winch Barient 28 (sam.c.sal...@gmail.com)
   2.  Otter Problem (Tom B)
   3. Re:  Otter Problem (Dennis C.)
   4. Re:  Winch Barient 28, oh G (Russ & Melody)
   5. Re:  Datamarine Auction (Della Barba, Joe) (Della Barba, Joe)
   6. Re:  Datamarine Auction (Della Barba, Joe) (D Harben)
   7. Re:  Otter Problem (Martin DeYoung)
   8. Re:  Advice Wanted: Cleaning out a Fuel Tank C&C 30mkII
  (Michael Brown)
   9. Re:  Mixing Elbow (ahycr...@cox.net)
  10. Re:  Advice Wanted: Cleaning out a Fuel Tank C&C 30mkII (dwight)
  11. Re:  Mixing Elbow (ahycr...@cox.net)
  12. Re:  Mixing Elbow (Jake Brodersen)
  13. Re:  Mixing Elbow (ahycr...@cox.net)
  14. Re:  Winch Barient 28 (Wally Bryant)
  15.  Exhaust Hose (Robert Abbott)
  16.  Mixing Elbow (Robert Abbott)
  17.  Now Engine (Robert Abbott)
  18.  Mixing Elbow (Robert Abbott)
  19. Re:  Mixing Elbow (Robert Abbott)
  20.  Mixing Elbow (Robert Abbott)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2014 10:21:06 -0700
From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Barient 28
Message-ID: <20140125172106.5632143.85741.12...@gmail.com>
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2014 09:26:12 -0800
From: Tom B 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Otter Problem
Message-ID: <840c7bb0-dc9d-486c-8cfc-597ee187d...@sv-alera.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

Yesterday we relocated Alera to our a Yacht Club's brand new docks.  We have
been on the wait list there for years and this is closer and cheaper.  We
were assigned a slip on the inside of the hammerhead at the end of the dock.
When we tied up I noticed a large amount of poop on the dock.  It looked
bigger that any raccoon poop, like we had at our prior dock.  

As I was walking up I saw an otter on the dock.  Apparently it is very bold
and seemed to be nearly domesticated by the way some of the guys were
shooing it away with little effect.  

My research revealed that otters develop habitual latrine areas and will go
back to the same spot, out of the water where they live, to crap.
Apparently, our finger pier is that spot.

Any suggestions or crappy remarks are appreciated!

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
Vashon WA


--

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2014 09:41:09 -0800 (PST)
From: "Dennis C." 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Otter Problem
Message-ID:
<1390671669.68042.yahoomail...@web164804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Ammonia water.

Dennis C.




>
> From: Tom B 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 11:26 AM
>Subject: Stus-List Otter Problem
> 
>
>Yesterday we relocated Alera to our a Yacht Club's brand new docks.? We
have been on the wait list there for years and this is closer and cheaper.?
We were assigned a slip on the inside of the hammerhead at the end of the
dock.? When we tied up I noticed a large amount of poop on the dock.? It
looked bigger that any raccoon poop, like we had at our prior dock.? 
>
>As I was walking up I saw an otter on the dock.? Apparently it is very bold
and seemed to be nearly domesticated by the way some of the guys were
shooing it away with little effect.? 
>
>My research revealed that otters develop habitual latrine areas and will go
back to the same spot, out of the water where they live, to crap.
Apparently, our finger pier is that spot.
>
>Any suggestions or crappy remarks are appreciated!
>
>Tom Buscaglia
>S/V Alera
>Vashon WA
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>
>
>
-- next part --
An HTML att

Re: Stus-List Datamarine Auction (Della Barba, Joe)

[Richard N. Bush]

Were the photos ever posted?


Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
502-584-7255



-Original Message-
From: D Harben 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Sat, Jan 25, 2014 12:58 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Datamarine Auction (Della Barba, Joe)



$125 for the cncphotoalbum 

Don


Don Harben 


Life   C&C 29-1   www.ncyc.ca
   North Channel Yacht Club




On Jan 25, 2014, at 12:52 PM, "Della Barba, Joe"  
wrote:



OK - we have $100 for the Photo Album so far :)

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Davidmidkiff
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 7:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Datamarine Auction (Della Barba, Joe)



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 10:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 96, Issue 149

I will get the Auction started with a bid of $100.00.  I am getting ready to 
take my mast down and my old wind unit is not working.  I had this system on my 
C&C 33 and was very happy with it.  I now have an older C&C 30 and am getting 
it into sailing condition.

David Midkiff
C&C30
Currently Joan D (soon to change)
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Re: Stus-List Otter Problem

[Chris Price]

Pellet gun. 
Chris Price 
Pradel 
35 Mk I 

- Original Message -

From: "Tom B"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 12:26:12 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Otter Problem 

Yesterday we relocated Alera to our a Yacht Club's brand new docks. We have 
been on the wait list there for years and this is closer and cheaper. We were 
assigned a slip on the inside of the hammerhead at the end of the dock. When we 
tied up I noticed a large amount of poop on the dock. It looked bigger that any 
raccoon poop, like we had at our prior dock. 

As I was walking up I saw an otter on the dock. Apparently it is very bold and 
seemed to be nearly domesticated by the way some of the guys were shooing it 
away with little effect. 

My research revealed that otters develop habitual latrine areas and will go 
back to the same spot, out of the water where they live, to crap. Apparently, 
our finger pier is that spot. 

Any suggestions or crappy remarks are appreciated! 

Tom Buscaglia 
S/V Alera 
Vashon WA 
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Re: Stus-List Otter Problem

[Graham Collins]

Leg hold trap?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-01-25 8:04 PM, Chris Price wrote:

Pellet gun.
Chris Price
Pradel
35  Mk I


*From: *"Tom B" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Sent: *Saturday, January 25, 2014 12:26:12 PM
*Subject: *Stus-List Otter Problem

Yesterday we relocated Alera to our a Yacht Club's brand new docks. 
 We have been on the wait list there for years and this is closer and 
cheaper.  We were assigned a slip on the inside of the hammerhead at 
the end of the dock.  When we tied up I noticed a large amount of poop 
on the dock.  It looked bigger that any raccoon poop, like we had at 
our prior dock.


As I was walking up I saw an otter on the dock.  Apparently it is very 
bold and seemed to be nearly domesticated by the way some of the guys 
were shooing it away with little effect.


My research revealed that otters develop habitual latrine areas and 
will go back to the same spot, out of the water where they live, to 
crap. Apparently, our finger pier is that spot.


Any suggestions or crappy remarks are appreciated!

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
Vashon WA
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Stus-List otter problems

[Jimmy Kelly]

had this problem of otters and their favourite poop spots when docked in
victoria harbour.a number of us on dock go together & first pressure
washed dock & areas under neath dock as best as couldthen  on dry days
soaked top of dock with javex let dry then next few days repeated 4 times
then put moth balls..on lower part of dock...a couple repeat applications
over 2 months  the otters found  another area they preferred...it seemed
the javex might have bothered feet..& smell of mothballs not very
appealingonly caution   dont let  bare feet or skin touch dock...wears
 away after a week or so   ...another group of sailors  used CLR BUT QUITE
TOXIC...good luck...
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Re: Stus-List Otter Problem

[Martin DeYoung]

Calypso's co-owner clarified how ammonia worked for us.  It worked great for an 
hour or two but not for days.  Maybe it would work sprayed around the dock to 
discourage their lounging around.



I have a gallon for free if anybody want to pick it up at Shilshole.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Graham Collins 
[cnclistforw...@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 4:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Otter Problem

Leg hold trap?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-01-25 8:04 PM, Chris Price wrote:
Pellet gun.
Chris Price
Pradel
35  Mk I

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Re: Stus-List Otter Problem

[Don Siddall]

... anyone tried mothballs. Animal control folks once recommended it as 
a way to discourage squirrels.


I don't think it would keep the cows off the deck though.

Don

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Re: Stus-List Otter Problem

[Dennis C.]

Friend of mine tried mothballs to keep birds from nesting in the large columns 
on his front porch.  The birds removed the mothballs and scattered them all 
over his front yard.

Critter Ridder?



Pepper spray?  

Citronella?

Listerine?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: Don Siddall 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 11:37 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Otter Problem
> 
>
>... anyone tried mothballs. Animal control folks once recommended it as 
>a way to discourage squirrels.
>
>I don't think it would keep the cows off the deck though.
>
>Don
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Installing Refrigeration on a C&C 35 Mk3

[Jim Watts]

I paid a refrigeration guy $50 cash, he came to my boat, serviced and
recharged the unit. I think I got a good deal, but he likes me. : )

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 23 January 2014 13:18, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> Nate,
>
> Call Nova Cool.  They quoted me ~$100 for a rebuild and recharge.
> Additionally you would have to pay to ship it to them. According to them
> the fittings are self sealing valves that close when they are
> disconnected.  They'll tell you how.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jan 23, 2014 10:57 AM, "Nate Flesness"  wrote:
>
>> Also have an old Nova Kool, do you know how to recharge them?
>>
>> Nate
>> "Sarah Jean"
>> 1980 30-1
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jan 22, 2014 at 6:49 PM, Jim Watts wrote:
>>
>>> Our Nova Kool installation is old, but the compressor is cunningly
>>> mounted on top of the galley drawers up in the coaming. It's probably not
>>> the best location in a warm climate...
>>>
>>> Jim Watts
>>> Paradigm Shift
>>> C&C 35 Mk III
>>> Victoria, BC
>>>
>>>
>>> On 22 January 2014 16:29, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>>>
 Doug,

 Did an Isotherm 2501 in my 35/3 last year.  Hardest part was running a
 wire from the breaker to the lazarette for the compressor.  I made a shelf
 fo the compressor out of plywood and epoxied it, only because I had some
 epoxy laying around.  I drilled 2 holes in the back of the icebox for the
 copper lines and used a can of foam from Home Depot to fill them.  Attached
 the evaporater with spacers and screws.

 Joel
 35/3
 The Office


 On Wednesday, January 22, 2014, Doug Allardyce 
 wrote:

> All,
> I'm in the process of updating a 1985 C&C 35 MK 3. One of my projects
> is
> installing a refrigeration unit. As I'm in the planning phase, I'm
> looking
> to hear from anyone who has already done an installation. I would be
> interested to know what unit was selected, and how it was installed. If
> anyone has pictures that would be great
>
> Doug Allardyce
> 1985 C&C 35 MK III "Bullet"
> Detroit
> _/)~~~_/) 
>
>
>
>

 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>
>
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