Hi,

I agree that sealant should be placed in the pre-drilled holes. In my notes, I wrote to use a butyl sealant as it does not degrade. However, I'm not a chemical engineer or roofer, and definitely I don't claim to understand why. In talking with the roofer, I asked how I could achieve a 40+ year solution, and that was the advise I was given. I also agree that penetrating any roof is a huge potential liability and should not be done lightly.

Almost all of the double layer of EternaBond stays under the L-foot - only about a 1/4 inch bulges out the sides and into the center hole.
Hope that helps,

Laura

--
Laura Uhler
Electrical Engineer
NABCEP Certified PV Installer
Solar Ki, LLC
Corvallis, Oregon
(541) 602-6909
laura.uh...@solarki.com
www.solarki.com



Kelly Keilwitz, Whidbey Sun & Wind wrote:
Laura,
I attended that seminar, too....the statistics on the overwhelming high percentage of liability cases being due to water incursion into the building made me sit up and pay attention.

Do you know if the "EternaBond" sealant is compatible with polyurethane sealant? I would prefer to fill our pre-drilled holes with sealant before applying the lag bolt. Does enough of the tape/sealant remain under the stanchion base to maintain separation between the metals?

Thanks,
-Kelly

Kelly Keilwitz, P.E.
Whidbey Sun & Wind, LLC
Renewable Energy Systems
NABCEP Certified PV Installer
987 Wanamaker Rd,
Coupeville, WA 98239
PH & FAX 360-678-7131
sunw...@whidbeysunwind.com


On 6/18/09 5:36 PM, "Laura Uhler" <laura.uh...@solarki.com> wrote:

    Hi,

    I talked with the roofer who gave the "Best Roofing Practices for
    PV" course at the NW Solar Expo, and at the Oregon Dept of Energy.
     I then took his recommendation and ran it by two local roofing
    professionals, who similarly approved.  They recommended using the
    EternaBond "Tape" product.  It looks like a 1/4" thick pre-rolled
    roof caulking.  I get it in 2" wide rolls, or, you may be able to
    purchase it pre-cut.  (It's not cheap.)  You peel off the plastic
    outer layer and put it on the back of the L-feet.  I put on a
    double layer.  It becomes activated by pressure, so, when you
    screw your stainless steel lag bolts (with washers) into the
    underlaying rafters, the EternaBond will ooze up in to fill the
    cavity between the washer and oval L-foot hole.

    I'd recommend that you allow yourself several hours to cut the
    EternaBond and pre-apply it to the L-feet before bringing the
    hardware on the roof.  That way, only the final layer of plastic
    needs be removed before screwing the L-foot onto the roof.  But,
    be warned, even with a top plastic layer on the "tape", the
    EternaBond will stick to everything!   There is no doubt that this
    is a much more solid, waterproof connection than the dollops on
    caulking around the six screws that must hold down every boot.

    Good Luck!

    Laura





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--
Laura Uhler, Owner
Solar Ki, LLC
(541) 602-6909
laura.uh...@solarki.com
www.solarki.com


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