remember that any closed system should have an adequately sized
expansion tank. if you're circulating potable water thru, you'll want
one rated for potable, not the standard hydroninc one. then, the PT
valve is truely only a backup anyway, in the event of a bladder failure
or some other failure.
Karl
jay peltz wrote:
Hi Drake,
I don't know if you ever watch Myth Busters, but google them and check
out the water tank they exploded.
Short version is they took a standard 40 gallon electric tank, put
into a small building, no PT valve, heated it until it exploded.
It flew something like 200' into the air, just amazing and super scary
to see. I'm with Jeff, I'd put a second in just for safety.
jay
peltz power
On Nov 11, 2008, at 4:40 PM, Drake Chamberlin wrote:
At 09:15 AM 11/11/2008, you wrote:
My question....is there a more robust version of that P/T valve
that I should be using? Something that you would use in a boiler
perhaps?
I'm not really a hot water guy either, but I'm scheming on putting in
solar hot water with a wood stove backup loop. I was thinking of
using a valve from a dishwasher or washing machine. They are
electrically controlled, and designed to take hot water straight from
the tank. Control the electric valve with an aquastat. If there is
no place to thread the aquastat into the tank, it would be more
difficult, but still possible with a bit of plumbing. For sure the
T/P valve would be needed for whenever the power went down.
Drake Chamberlin
Athens Electric
OH License 44810
CO License 3773
740-448-7328
740-856-9648
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