Please do not forget any safety device in HVAC or plumbing is not designed to cycle open and close as a controller. They are designed to fail and in a lot cases they are designed to fail once. After the T/P opens it may never really reset which is ok because it will leak but the P/T could also loss the calibration which means they can stay closed even if they should be open. In many cases this means the house is leveled when the explosion happens.
Chris Meier Product Manager UniRac, Inc. 1411 Broadway Blvd. NE Albuquerque, NM 87102-1545 Ph: 505-242-6411 Fx: 505-242-6412 Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Web: http://www.unirac.com This message contains confidential and privileged information, which is intended for the individual(s) to whom it is addressed. It should not be reviewed, retransmitted, disseminated, or otherwise used by a person(s) or entities other than the intended recipient. If you received this message in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from your computer system(s). -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of jay peltz Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 8:24 PM To: RE-wrenches Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Pt valves as overheat control Hi Drake, I don't know if you ever watch Myth Busters, but google them and check out the water tank they exploded. Short version is they took a standard 40 gallon electric tank, put into a small building, no PT valve, heated it until it exploded. It flew something like 200' into the air, just amazing and super scary to see. I'm with Jeff, I'd put a second in just for safety. jay peltz power On Nov 11, 2008, at 4:40 PM, Drake Chamberlin wrote: > > At 09:15 AM 11/11/2008, you wrote: >> My question....is there a more robust version of that P/T valve >> that I should be using? Something that you would use in a boiler >> perhaps? > > I'm not really a hot water guy either, but I'm scheming on putting > in solar hot water with a wood stove backup loop. I was thinking of > using a valve from a dishwasher or washing machine. They are > electrically controlled, and designed to take hot water straight > from the tank. Control the electric valve with an aquastat. If > there is no place to thread the aquastat into the tank, it would be > more difficult, but still possible with a bit of plumbing. For sure > the T/P valve would be needed for whenever the power went down. > > > Drake Chamberlin > Athens Electric > OH License 44810 > CO License 3773 > 740-448-7328 > 740-856-9648 > > _______________________________________________ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > _______________________________________________ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org _______________________________________________ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org