On Dec 23, 9:07 pm, John McMurry <johnmcmu...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Dec 23, 8:18 pm, Atlantean <softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I removed an Albatross bar from my Atlantis even though I liked it a
> > lot, simply because I could not get it low enough!
>
> A stem like this stem ought to help that situation:
>
> http://www.businesscycles.com/tstem-nitto.htm
>
> > Imagine that! It
> > would have been easy with a threadless fork.
>
> How would've it been easier to lower the bars with a threadless fork?
Threadless stems can be flipped for rise or drop. A 17 degree
threadless would give a lot of drop.
> John McMurry
> Burlington, VT
I've now got both threaded and threadless bikes. The threadless on
the Kogswell gives me more range of adjustability - I have left the
steerer *very* long for now, so I can move the stem over a 110 mm
range, and flip it over for another 10 mm. Depending on how much of a
change I'm making, I can change the height in 3 to 10 minutes, in
increments as small as 3 mm. Clearly not as fast as with a quill
stem, but with threadless swapping the stem extension would be as fast
as a height adjustment. Swapping a 10 cm Nitto for an 8 on the Riv
Road took quite a bit longer, and required unwrapping the shellaced
cloth tape. Headset maintenance would be easier with threadless, but
sealed cartridge headsets would make either system pretty low
maintenance.
Quill stems can be made front loading, but most often are not.
Another point for threadless.
My main beef with threadless is that I regard a 1-1/8" steel steerer
as overbuilt. 1" threadless with a long head tube (so fewer spacers
show) would seem to me to be a fine and light way to go for a road
bike. Too bad it's pretty much unavailable. Quill stems are fine,
too. The headset style won't be the determining factor in choosing my
next bike.
Bill
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