The problem we have experienced is localized in only >one area that is already repaired, but it could happen to others who have >done what we have done. I WILL NOT be doing any hard-shelling and will >recommend against it. - Michael Pollock - Flying Velocity N173DT >Larry A Capps >Naperville, IL +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The above "snip" would indicate to me that the problem was not in "hard-shelling" if it happened only in a localized area. From the above reply and others, I'm getting the idea that builders were "gobbing" on micro to fix problems with the foam. That is NOT what my process did. I used slurry much the consistancy of honey. I applied it with a rubber squeege and removed as much as possible so as to seal the foam only. I brushed the foam with sandpaper once or twice after the slurry cured to remove little "prickleys" that would snag the glass when I would attempt to move it before wetting it out. I would then wet the glass in the normal manner. I laid up all the glass on my KR without assistance from anyone and never felt rushed and that includes scratch built wings. I'm still convinced that the bond between the cured slury and the glass/resin is stronger than the foam core and that the glass is bonded to the foam with the same strength as when the glass is laid up over wet slurry. Also, what about glass that soaks up slurry from below instead of being wetted out with pure resin? In all the cured glass I've pulled off foam, I see no difference between straight epoxy/glass on foam, glass over wet slurry, or glass over dried slurry as far as how much foam comes up with the glass. In all cases you will pull up the glass with a layer of foam only as deep as the resin or slurry penetrated. I would hold this same opinion even if some of my glass work was not ten years old and still no defects, my KR did not have 40 hours on it with 75+ takeoffs and landing, flown in 35F weather and been to 7500 feet several times. YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY. DO YOUR OWN TEST. Larry Flesner
