Hi, Ninni!
I shoot a lot of sea horizons from shore. The best way I've found around
the non-linear or wavy horizon issue is to go the Control Points tab and
manually add horizontal lines to the horizon in each frame before
generating any automatic control points.
Then I run Hugin cpfind to generate automatic control points.
This gives me consistent good results for a straight, level horizon.
I think it also helps Hugin find good control points since it gets to
start with a set of known good horizontal control points.
Maybe that will help.
Happy panorama making!
On 5/13/25 02:33, Ninni Curinga wrote:
Thank you again.
yes i know what are control points, i also added them manually but
still doesnt work good. as you wrote, my subjects are seaside,
landscape and not rail. I always get a non-linear horizon or the
repetition of the tip of Sicily at the bottom, as you can see in the
file I sent. It's a shame that such expensive cameras don't have a
built-in function like in smartphones that helps you create these
kinds of pics. my last try will be Ptgui latest version, if it solves
automatically this problem i ll buy. do you know some A.I. service
that can help in creating 360* pic?
Il giorno domenica 11 maggio 2025 alle 10:02:23 UTC+2
[email protected] ha scritto:
A few handheld shooting tricks:
First of all concentrate on what your main subject will be. In your
panorama, I guess the real subject is the sea and the mountain, maybe
the wall and the pillar, but not the railing. This is very important
because when shooting handheld, you will probably get parallax
issues,
unless the whole image is at the same distance from you. So to create
the panorama, you will tell Hugin to choose points on this subject
and
to neglect points closer or farther than your main subject.
I don't know if you started to read the Hugin documentation, but in
order to understand the following suggestions, you must understand
that
Hugin uses "control points", points which are set on the same
elements
on contiguous images. Hugin usually sets control points in the
middle of
patches of the same colour.
Try to take your pictures so that contiguous images will have static
elements from this real subject in common. "Static" means
obviously not
on a wave or a moving car or the leaves of a tree in the wind, but
also
not on a cloud (unless you are trying to make a panorama of the sky
itself). Those elements should not be too large. Not a close beach or
big wall, but a foot print or a stone in the wall
The more widespread are the control points, the better. For example,
pick a few details on the coast, ideally at least two at the top
and two
at the bottom. For good results, the points should not be aligned, so
that 3 points on the same the left edge of a building won't help
as much
as 2 on the left edge and 1 on the right edge (2 on the left edge
and 2
on the right edge will be even better). This means that you should
ensure that the common part of contiguous images will allow for such
points as much as possible. Obviously, this would not be possible for
the part of your panorama where there is only the railing and the
sea:
the railing is not the main subject so that placing points on it will
probably not give good results and I can see nothing which could
be used
as a control point in the sea. Which leads to my next suggestion:
If there is a large space without any distinct element, try to
take it
in one picture. I am not sure if this would have been possible in
your
situation, but I would have tried to take the whole sea in one
picture.
This is also true with a not so large but important item, for
example a
building: try to take it whole in one picture. BTW, judging by your
shadow, you are using your camera in portrait mode. You could also
use
it in landscape mode, in order to get a wider horizontal field of
view.
Hugin is perfectly able to create a panorama from a set containing
portrait and landscape pictures.
Check if there is a better place to take your pictures from.
Sometimes,
moving just a few steps can help make parallax issues less
obvious. For
example, I would have tried to take the pictures from closer to the
railings, in order to get them out of the way as much as possible.
One advice, less related to shooting: If you know how to use an image
processing software like the Gimp, make Hugin create a "Normal
panorama
with layered TIFF output", you will get a TIFF with one layer per
photo
and you will be able to define precisely which photo to use for each
zone of the panorama, which can be useful to avoid some issues
like the
discontinuities in the railings. This also allows you to use
parallax to
hide elements: if there is an ugly road sign, take one picture,
move one
step to the right or to the left and take the same picture, then
in the
panorama you can choose the visible part of each source image so that
the road sign will "disappear". Or take a few pictures of the same
scene
with people moving around and you can "erase" the people.
> On 10/05/2025 17:43, Ninni Curinga wrote:
>> i would like to learn to make there shots without tripod even
because
>> i m a hobbist so it's difficult for me to bring tripod everytime
>> expecially when i travel with low cost company :-D any help is
>> appreciated
>> Ninni
>>
--
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David W. Jones
[email protected]
wandering the landscape of god
http://dancingtreefrog.com
My password is the last 8 digits of π.
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A list of frequently asked questions is available at:
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