A fisheye lens helps in reducing the number of shots required to cover the entire sphere. Something like a Samyang 12mm/2.8 will allow a 4+Z+N shooting patter (4 shots taken in portrait format at 90 degree intervals around the equator, Zenith, and Nadir), handheld you may wish to take 6 shots around the equator to give a bit more overlap and leeway. The actual focal length of the Samyang 12mm/2.8 is around 13.1mm, so using a Z6 should give roughly 14Kx7K panoramas, versus 15Kx7.5K for a 14mm lens.
You could get something like an 7.5mm or even 6.5mm fisheye lens that would allow 4+N or 3+N shots (even 2+N on some lenses if you are adventurous), but with the trade-off of a smaller final pano. At this point, you may wish to consider getting a 1-shot camera instead (though at the expense of image quality). There are some inexpensive options (<£150). I prefer to use a tripod+panohead as I often want to take scenes in low-light. It also reduces the problem of parallax (not usually an issue except for some cases where the entrance pupil shift becomes a problem with very close objects). If you want to shoot handheld, you could try the Philopod technique https://wiki.panotools.org/Philopod https://www.philohome.com/tripod/shooting.htm https://wiki.panotools.org/Philopod_pitch_variation https://www.pano-guru.com/tutorials/tutorial-1/ On Saturday, 10 May 2025 at 16:52:26 UTC+1 [email protected] wrote: > Hi Dkloi, > i ve seen your profile: congratulations, you re a pro! i was in scotland > in 2001, in st Andrews (fife), congratulations for 360* pic in the old > cimitery and church ruins, one of the most impressive place i ve seen in my > live. > i d like to know if i can have better results, or if i was wrong in > shoting and then i cannot solve anything. i can also buy rails but my > problem is that i don't have time enough to shot everyday so it's difficult > to find the perfect weater day and being in a good place to shot. i'm a > hobbist who likes to do the best as i can, of course i need nodal rails to > obtain the best. i have a 14-24mm, should i buy the fisheye lens? does it > help in 360* pano pictures instead of 14-24? > thank you again > Nino > > > Il giorno sabato 10 maggio 2025 alle 17:15:16 UTC+2 dkloi ha scritto: > >> >> You can try putting them into PTGui (trial version) and see what you get. >> It might be a better option for a beginner and this sort of shot if you do >> not want to try manually assembling the panorama in Hugin. >> >> Tiff images don't seem to display properly on my phone. Better if you use >> jpg (also reduces file size) >> On Saturday, 10 May 2025 at 14:04:15 UTC+1 [email protected] wrote: >> >>> Thank you for help. i knew there are software able to crate 360x180 >>> equirectangular panorama, but i never tested before. when i visited a >>> panoramical area i remember about Hugin and then as impromptu i tried to >>> make shots with z6 14-24mm f2.8 at 14mm focal lenght and i was afrai some >>> of these were not good and then i shot a lot while rotating, to "help" >>> software to understand the scene. >>> i had no tripod so even if i tried to stay in the same position of >>> course while rotating i was not perfectly geometrically held in that >>> position. >>> i tried hugin chosing a part of those pictures (less than 74) but it >>> didnt help. >>> it's a shame because climatic conditions were really good, did you see >>> the attached picture in the first messages? >>> >>> >>> Il giorno sabato 10 maggio 2025 alle 14:10:37 UTC+2 dkloi ha scritto: >>> >>>> You said you wanted to test Hugin in your first post. Doing a 74 shot >>>> handheld pano is probably not the most advisable way of doing so as a >>>> beginner. I would suggest you take a simpler set of test shots and build >>>> up >>>> your knowledge and experience. And you can use the example I have linked >>>> to >>>> in my previous message. I have a tutorial (still in draft) at >>>> https://www.dkloi.co.uk/?p=1636 also with example source images and a >>>> project file. >>>> >>>> You still haven't said what focal length did you use. What was it? Why >>>> so many shots? >>>> >>>> I would suggest you go through the Hugin examples and tutorial first to >>>> understand the process before tackling your own set of images. If you want >>>> to get a good stitch out of your 74 image set, then you may be able to do >>>> it manually in expert mode: >>>> - Between each overlapping image pair, place a couple of control >>>> points. The required number of control point pairs may depend angle of >>>> view >>>> of each shot, fewer control point pairs are needed for narrower angle of >>>> view source images, I have found. Try to place the control points along >>>> the >>>> middle of the overlapping region, this is where the seam will be. >>>> - Where an image does not have many features (such as a photo of the >>>> sky) to place control points on, these might be able to placed by hand (by >>>> setting the appropriate y, p, r parameters) >>>> - Remember to set horizon and/or vertical control points to ensure the >>>> panorama is level >>>> - You can set masks to exclude certain parts of the source images >>>> - After setting the control points, start the alignment process. You >>>> can proceed in stages, first optimising position, then include field of >>>> view, then adding barrel, then optimise everything except translation. At >>>> each stage, check your control point errors to find mis-placed control >>>> points and correct them. >>>> - You can set the output size, this will scale the magnitude if the >>>> control point errors (as this is in terms of the output pano pixel >>>> dimensions and takes into account the projection type). >>>> - If you're not getting a good alignment, then you can try giving each >>>> source image a different lens. The optimiser can adjust each angle of >>>> view, >>>> barrel, etc. of each image to try to get a good alignment. >>>> - When the alignment is satisfactory, then you can move onto >>>> photometric optimisation. I usually do this in stages as well. Using the >>>> Custom Parameters, I'll first start out by optimising the EV values only. >>>> Then I'll add in Vb, Vc, Vd, Vx, Vy. I usually untick the EMoR options >>>> (leave it as default). Finally I'll add in the White Balance Er, Eb. >>>> Remember to keep one of the image's EV, Er, and Eb un-optimised as this >>>> will be the anchor image for the exposure. >>>> - You can use the Preview Panorama to check your progress. You can also >>>> adjust the output brightness of your stitched image here. >>>> >>>> You probably have some redundancy in your shots, 74 seems a lot for a >>>> Z6 and a 14-24mm lens, even if shot at 24mm. You can remove the un-needed >>>> shots to make your life easier. >>>> >>>> My first spherical pano was done using a 27mm (equivalent) lens without >>>> a panohead. I spent ages and it still had major stitching errors due to >>>> parallax. I was not keen on spending hours trying to rescue a >>>> parallax-filled large set of photos any more. >>>> >>>> I quickly got a panohead, still using a 27mm lens, so shooting a >>>> 10+10+10+Z+N pattern. These were manually assembled in Hugin, for example >>>> https://www.360cities.net/image/rome-san-lorenzo-in-lucina and >>>> https://www.360cities.net/image/glasgow-royal-exchange-square were >>>> taken in this way. >>>> >>>> This pano https://www.360cities.net/image/spain-barcelona-casa-batllo >>>> was taken handheld using a fisheye lens, but it was not practical to use a >>>> tripod in this situation. >>>> >>>> On Friday, 9 May 2025 at 22:14:51 UTC+1 [email protected] wrote: >>>> >>>>> thank you for reply. i didn't had a tripod with me that day, and >>>>> forecast conditions were perfect. so i d like any help to merge those >>>>> pictures if possible better than i done, and some help in Advanced Mode. >>>>> i >>>>> d like to learn. if i upload all pictures in my web space, can you please >>>>> help me somehow? >>>>> >>>>> Il giorno venerdì 9 maggio 2025 alle 23:03:31 UTC+2 dkloi ha scritto: >>>>> >>>>>> Shooting handheld can be done (done it myself) but it's not the >>>>>> easiest starting point for a beginner. Also, 74 photos seems to be quite >>>>>> a >>>>>> lot. What focal length did you use? With a 20mm lens (on a panohead) I >>>>>> shoot 8+8+8+Z+N (26 shots). If you shoot at 14mm, even with extra >>>>>> overlap >>>>>> due to shooting handheld, you should be able to get away with about the >>>>>> same or fewer shots to cover the sphere with some care. >>>>>> >>>>>> I'd suggest picking up a panohead just to make it much simpler, >>>>>> especially when you are starting out. If you want to practice how to >>>>>> stitch, then I have some examples, for instance at >>>>>> https://www.dkloi.co.uk/?p=1490 >>>>>> >>>>>> A simple set-up would be to get something like >>>>>> https://panosociety.com/products/nodal-ninja-3-mkii-starter-package >>>>>> and a fisheye lens like >>>>>> https://www.amazon.co.uk/7artisans-Fisheye-185%C2%B0Manual-Mirrorless-Cameras/dp/B0DK1PMNQ2/?th=1 >>>>>> >>>>>> The 14-24mm is quite a big lens so I'm not sure it'd fit on a NN3 MK >>>>>> II. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> On Friday, 9 May 2025 at 21:43:51 UTC+1 [email protected] wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Hi, i write again because last message was cut. >>>>>>> i m a newbie and i have problems in easy and advanced mode, because >>>>>>> i shot these 74pics without tripod. is there a way to fix it? how can i >>>>>>> give you files here? if i send it tell me "message is too long". Hugin >>>>>>> it >>>>>>> didnt work in advanced mode and file was not created. Thank you so much >>>>>>> >>>>>> -- A list of frequently asked questions is available at: http://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_FAQ --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hugin and other free panoramic software" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/hugin-ptx/111798de-2697-4ab8-8d36-f50bee39438bn%40googlegroups.com.
