Hello Ninni,
First of all, I never use a tripod, not because I think it would be a
bad idea, but because I don't want to carry a tripod everywhere.
Because I don't use a tripod, I need to make quite a few adjustments in
order to get good results. To do this, I suggest you switch Hugin to the
Expert Interface.
On 10/05/2025 15:04, Ninni Curinga wrote:
i was afrai some of these were not good and then i shot a lot while
rotating, to "help" software to understand the scene.
Yes, this is a good idea. In a similar situation, I examine each image
to see if it is duplicated and out of focus, and if so, I eliminate it
(or at least I tell Hugin not to include it in the final image).
i had no tripod so even if i tried to stay in the same position of
course while rotating i was not perfectly geometrically held in that
position.
Examining your resulting image, I would add a horizontal line on the
sea horizon. If the railing bars are indeed vertical, I would set a few
vertical bars on them as well as on the pillar on the right.
You should check that Hugin did not put control points in places where
it can not work. For example, clouds, or waves in the sea. But also on
the railing: since you shoot handheld, there are bound to be parallax
errors between close and remote items. I guess you are more interested
in the landscape than on the railing, so I suggest you remove any
control point on the railing. What to do with the pillar is more tricky.
You could also check the control points distance (press F3 to get the
list) and check if control points with a great distance are correctly set.
Il giorno sabato 10 maggio 2025 alle 14:10:37 UTC+2 dkloi ha scritto:
You said you wanted to test Hugin in your first post. Doing a 74
shot handheld pano is probably not the most advisable way of doing
so as a beginner. I would suggest you take a simpler set of test
shots and build up your knowledge and experience. And you can use
the example I have linked to in my previous message. I have a
tutorial (still in draft) at https://www.dkloi.co.uk/?p=1636 also
with example source images and a project file.
You still haven't said what focal length did you use. What was it?
Why so many shots?
I would suggest you go through the Hugin examples and tutorial
first to understand the process before tackling your own set of
images. If you want to get a good stitch out of your 74 image set,
then you may be able to do it manually in expert mode:
- Between each overlapping image pair, place a couple of control
points. The required number of control point pairs may depend
angle of view of each shot, fewer control point pairs are needed
for narrower angle of view source images, I have found. Try to
place the control points along the middle of the overlapping
region, this is where the seam will be.
- Where an image does not have many features (such as a photo of
the sky) to place control points on, these might be able to placed
by hand (by setting the appropriate y, p, r parameters)
- Remember to set horizon and/or vertical control points to ensure
the panorama is level
- You can set masks to exclude certain parts of the source images
- After setting the control points, start the alignment process.
You can proceed in stages, first optimising position, then include
field of view, then adding barrel, then optimise everything except
translation. At each stage, check your control point errors to
find mis-placed control points and correct them.
- You can set the output size, this will scale the magnitude if
the control point errors (as this is in terms of the output pano
pixel dimensions and takes into account the projection type).
- If you're not getting a good alignment, then you can try giving
each source image a different lens. The optimiser can adjust each
angle of view, barrel, etc. of each image to try to get a good
alignment.
- When the alignment is satisfactory, then you can move onto
photometric optimisation. I usually do this in stages as well.
Using the Custom Parameters, I'll first start out by optimising
the EV values only. Then I'll add in Vb, Vc, Vd, Vx, Vy. I usually
untick the EMoR options (leave it as default). Finally I'll add in
the White Balance Er, Eb. Remember to keep one of the image's EV,
Er, and Eb un-optimised as this will be the anchor image for the
exposure.
- You can use the Preview Panorama to check your progress. You can
also adjust the output brightness of your stitched image here.
You probably have some redundancy in your shots, 74 seems a lot
for a Z6 and a 14-24mm lens, even if shot at 24mm. You can remove
the un-needed shots to make your life easier.
My first spherical pano was done using a 27mm (equivalent) lens
without a panohead. I spent ages and it still had major stitching
errors due to parallax. I was not keen on spending hours trying to
rescue a parallax-filled large set of photos any more.
I quickly got a panohead, still using a 27mm lens, so shooting a
10+10+10+Z+N pattern. These were manually assembled in Hugin, for
example https://www.360cities.net/image/rome-san-lorenzo-in-lucina
and https://www.360cities.net/image/glasgow-royal-exchange-square
were taken in this way.
This pano
https://www.360cities.net/image/spain-barcelona-casa-batllo was
taken handheld using a fisheye lens, but it was not practical to
use a tripod in this situation.
On Friday, 9 May 2025 at 22:14:51 UTC+1 [email protected] wrote:
thank you for reply. i didn't had a tripod with me that day,
and forecast conditions were perfect. so i d like any help to
merge those pictures if possible better than i done, and some
help in Advanced Mode. i d like to learn. if i upload all
pictures in my web space, can you please help me somehow?
Il giorno venerdì 9 maggio 2025 alle 23:03:31 UTC+2 dkloi ha
scritto:
Shooting handheld can be done (done it myself) but it's
not the easiest starting point for a beginner. Also, 74
photos seems to be quite a lot. What focal length did you
use? With a 20mm lens (on a panohead) I shoot 8+8+8+Z+N
(26 shots). If you shoot at 14mm, even with extra overlap
due to shooting handheld, you should be able to get away
with about the same or fewer shots to cover the sphere
with some care.
I'd suggest picking up a panohead just to make it much
simpler, especially when you are starting out. If you want
to practice how to stitch, then I have some examples, for
instance at https://www.dkloi.co.uk/?p=1490
A simple set-up would be to get something like
https://panosociety.com/products/nodal-ninja-3-mkii-starter-package
and a fisheye lens like
https://www.amazon.co.uk/7artisans-Fisheye-185%C2%B0Manual-Mirrorless-Cameras/dp/B0DK1PMNQ2/?th=1
The 14-24mm is quite a big lens so I'm not sure it'd fit
on a NN3 MK II.
On Friday, 9 May 2025 at 21:43:51 UTC+1
[email protected] wrote:
Hi, i write again because last message was cut.
i m a newbie and i have problems in easy and advanced
mode, because i shot these 74pics without tripod. is
there a way to fix it? how can i give you files here?
if i send it tell me "message is too long". Hugin it
didnt work in advanced mode and file was not created.
Thank you so much
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