A plug (the male part), yes.   A Socket/Receptacle (female part), No.  You
absolutely cannot leave any pins non-connected.

On Mon, Sep 9, 2024 at 1:01 PM <e...@tucsonev.com> wrote:

> Phil - code wise can you have a NEMA 14-X Plug with an unconnected pin
> (neutral)? Another way of stating my question is - since the Tesla 14-50
> Plug has no wire connected to the neutral pin, is it code acceptable?
>
> Best,
>
> Rush Dougherty
> TucsonEV
> www.TucsonEV.com
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> On Behalf Of (-Phil-) via EV
> > Sent: Monday, September 9, 2024 10:25 AM
> > To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.evdl.org>
> > Cc: (-Phil-) <p...@ingineerix.com>; Lawrence Rhodes
> > <primobass...@sbcglobal.net>
> > Subject: Re: [EVDL] Three connector 220 to 14-30 no neutral?
> >
> > Code-wise, You can't have an outlet (adapter or not) with a neutral NEMA
> 14-
> > x and simply leave that pin unconnected just because your "intended use"
> > doesn't use it.  If someone plugs something into there expecting a
> neutral,
> > it could be dangerous.   That said, one thing you could do is saw off or
> > remove the neutral pin on the Tesla 14-30 plug (since it's not connected
> > anyway), and then epoxy up the socket on the adapter, then only the Tesla
> > plug will fit.   I did this on my Tesla 14-50 plug so I can also use it
> on
> > 14-30 dryer outlets without needing a second plug.
> >
> > Not exactly the fully above board thing, but at least it's safer.   If
> you
> > don't want to do this, at least wire the ground to the "unused" neutral
> socket,
> > so if someone DID plug something in there, it would be less
> > dangerous than leaving it floating.   Keep in mind one day, you will
> depart
> > this life, you don't want to also force someone who later discovers your
> > adapter to do the same!
> >
> > I have made custom plug adapters for the Tesla Gen 2 UMC, but it requires
> > recovering the overmolded one-wire ID chip from inside the plug, you
> can't
> > just cut the cable an re-wire it, the UMC will not function.
> >
> > On Mon, Sep 9, 2024 at 6:31 AM EV List Lackey via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > On 9 Sep 2024 at 6:33, Lawrence Rhodes via EV wrote:
> > >
> > > > My Think EVSE finally died, after a decade of use...
> > >
> > > Very sorry to hear of your loss.
> > >
> > > > If I can trust my wife.
> > >
> > > If you can't, you - and she - have more problems than a dead EVSE, and
> > > I don't think that this list can help much. :-\
> > >
> > > > There is an L-30 twist lock. I need to adapt it to 14-30 to
> > > > accommodate the Tesla EVSE. I saw one diagram that simply didn't
> > > > connect the neutral. Two hots and a ground. Is that acceptable?
> > >
> > > As long as the new EVSE doesn't need 120v for something, that should
> > > be fine.
> > >
> > > IMO, to be 100% safe you should fuse your adapter at 30 amps. The house
> > > breaker protects at 40 amps.   Probably very few people do this.  I
> admit,
> > > I
> > > didn't.
> > >
> > > > I vaguely remember combining hot and neutral.
> > >
> > > I'm not an engineer, but I wouldn't do that.  I suspect that it will
> > > get you one or more of 3 things, depending on how it's done:
> > >
> > > - Sparks 'n' arcs
> > > - Tripped house breaker
> > > - Damaged EVSE, if it wants 120v and you hand it 240v
> > >
> > > David Roden, EVDL moderator & general lackey
> > >
> > > To reach me, don't reply to this message; I won't get it.  Use my
> > > offlist address here : http://evdl.org/help/index.html#supt
> > >
> > > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> > >
> > >      In America, anybody can be president. That's one of the risks
> > >      you take.
> > >
> > >                                 -- Adlai Stevenson (1900-1965) = = = =
> > > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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