On Thursday 30 July 2020 13:15:22 Bruce Layne wrote: > On 7/30/20 10:55 AM, Gene Heskett wrote: > > And since the ender-3 is bigger, meaning the non-magnetic peel and > > stick glue coated pads that come with the PLA are both too small, > > and covered with a peel and stick bottom which would preclude > > removing it from the plate once cooked into place, where do I obtain > > a kit to convert it thats known to be "the right stuff"? > > There are hundreds of products when I searched eBay and Amazon for > "Ender 3 glass". I'd avoid the simple glass plates that require > binder clips, unless you're planning to use high temperature two sided > adhesive to bond the glass to the aluminum table so you won't need any > clips.
I'm wondering if the tan elastomer layer under the mag sheet is tacky enough to keep it from jiggling around, particularly if I slice off a 3/4 wide strip of the mag sign stuff and lay it over the glass on all edges so its grip would be enough to stop the slippage. We'll see. > Many of these upgrades are cheap, even by our standards, Gene. :-) > > $15 is a small price to pay for consistently reliable 3D prints. > They have come down some since I first looked. I got 2 sheets, sized for the ender-3 at $16 each. > There are some glass print surface upgrade kits that also include > larger bed leveling wheels, Those are stock on the pro model, but the big extruder wheel isn't > a Capricorn PTFE Bowden tube upgrade, Haven't needed that yet but did expand the retract distance 2 mm's. > etc. It might be nice and cost effective to do several upgrades at > once. > > > I had to remove the tab on the z switch to lower it another > > 2mm in order to get enough spring tension to make the plate levelers > > actually work. > > You'll probably need to lower the Z homed bed height when you add the > thickness of a glass plate, prior to leveling the bed again. That's > probably covered in the glass print bed upgrade instructions. If they do come with the glass... > If not, > it should be fairly obvious to someone who builds LinuxCNC machines. Only 4 so far, am I qualified? ;-) > > You shouldn't have needed to do most of the heroic things that were > required to get your 3D printer working. I'd blame most of that on a > fly-by-night manufacturer not properly configuring your printer before > shipping. That may have been the result of trying to save that last > $20 compared to buying from a well established supplier with a good > reputation, but that's water under the bridge for this 3D printer. This machine was actually made and shipped by Sainsmart. Should have been better calibrated and documented. Most of the docs I have over and above the initial paper build docs are on the sd card and unmentioned anyplace. > You shouldn't need to keep chasing your tail, tweaking settings and > having ongoing unpredictable bed adhesion. Once you're in the > Goldilocks zone where this bed adhesion is just right, the process > should be repeatable from one print to another. A glass print surface > should do that for you. Keep the bed level (easy if you aren't prying > on it to get a print to release), keep a thin coating of glue on > glass, and 3D printing gets a lot easier. Then, all you'll be > fighting is the occasional mystery nozzle jam every couple of reels of > filament or so. After the first couple of cleared nozzle jams, this > ten minute repair is not intimidating. I try to buy filament that > gets good Amazon reviews for unspooling without jams to ensure > reliable printing. > > I shipped 100 parts last week to a guy who is selling them on his > website, and he just ordered another hundred parts today. I print > these large flat parts one at a time, three hours of printing per > part, and I couldn't do this project if my 3D printing wasn't > reliable. The ABS parts pop off the glass plate 15 minutes after the > part has finished printing. I pick up the part, squirt a couple of > drops of Glue Juice that I made by dissolving a few grams of glue > stick in a pint of water onto the glass surface, and I reactivate the > glue surface by scrubbing the glass for a few seconds with a nylon > bristle brush. The turnaround between parts is less than a minute, > and these large ABS parts never warp or delaminate from the print > surface. Sounds good, thanks for the glue recipe. I tried hair spray but it made things worse till it wore off. I'd like to get there. But I'm not there yet. Thanks Bruce. Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable. - Louis D. Brandeis Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
