On 7/30/20 10:55 AM, Gene Heskett wrote: > And since the ender-3 is bigger, meaning the non-magnetic peel and stick > glue coated pads that come with the PLA are both too small, and covered > with a peel and stick bottom which would preclude removing it from the > plate once cooked into place, where do I obtain a kit to convert it > thats known to be "the right stuff"?
There are hundreds of products when I searched eBay and Amazon for "Ender 3 glass". I'd avoid the simple glass plates that require binder clips, unless you're planning to use high temperature two sided adhesive to bond the glass to the aluminum table so you won't need any clips. Many of these upgrades are cheap, even by our standards, Gene. :-) $15 is a small price to pay for consistently reliable 3D prints. There are some glass print surface upgrade kits that also include larger bed leveling wheels, a Capricorn PTFE Bowden tube upgrade, etc. It might be nice and cost effective to do several upgrades at once. > I had to remove the tab on the z switch to lower it another > 2mm in order to get enough spring tension to make the plate levelers > actually work. You'll probably need to lower the Z homed bed height when you add the thickness of a glass plate, prior to leveling the bed again. That's probably covered in the glass print bed upgrade instructions. If not, it should be fairly obvious to someone who builds LinuxCNC machines. You shouldn't have needed to do most of the heroic things that were required to get your 3D printer working. I'd blame most of that on a fly-by-night manufacturer not properly configuring your printer before shipping. That may have been the result of trying to save that last $20 compared to buying from a well established supplier with a good reputation, but that's water under the bridge for this 3D printer. You shouldn't need to keep chasing your tail, tweaking settings and having ongoing unpredictable bed adhesion. Once you're in the Goldilocks zone where this bed adhesion is just right, the process should be repeatable from one print to another. A glass print surface should do that for you. Keep the bed level (easy if you aren't prying on it to get a print to release), keep a thin coating of glue on glass, and 3D printing gets a lot easier. Then, all you'll be fighting is the occasional mystery nozzle jam every couple of reels of filament or so. After the first couple of cleared nozzle jams, this ten minute repair is not intimidating. I try to buy filament that gets good Amazon reviews for unspooling without jams to ensure reliable printing. I shipped 100 parts last week to a guy who is selling them on his website, and he just ordered another hundred parts today. I print these large flat parts one at a time, three hours of printing per part, and I couldn't do this project if my 3D printing wasn't reliable. The ABS parts pop off the glass plate 15 minutes after the part has finished printing. I pick up the part, squirt a couple of drops of Glue Juice that I made by dissolving a few grams of glue stick in a pint of water onto the glass surface, and I reactivate the glue surface by scrubbing the glass for a few seconds with a nylon bristle brush. The turnaround between parts is less than a minute, and these large ABS parts never warp or delaminate from the print surface. _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
