I haven't had any luck unfortunately. I'm probably going to give up for now and put it back together. It sounds like only about 2 LF38 owners on this list have pulled their rod U-bolts, so I guess it's a less common thing than I expected.
I put about 6-8 hours into one U-bolt over 2 weeks, spraying the aluminum backing block with vinegar 5-10 times, PB Blaster 3-4 times, BoatLife Release 2-3 times. I hammered in a paint scraper on the 2 accessible sides, and then hammered in a cold chisel on one side. That opened a bit of a gap, but it was starting to tear into the fiberglass. I hammered upwards on the thrubolts too but the access isn't very good. Also heated with a heat gun until PB Blaster started smoking. There's no way to inject stuff from above deck because the U-bolt plate is completely flush with the deck - I can't even get a razor blade in. Unless I sanded off the deck paint perhaps. I put some pictures here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BxfHpwssU_6NTlRNbXUtSHAtaWc?usp=sharing I'm half way tempted to just leave the nuts loosened by 1/8 of an inch and go sailing in 10 knots or so on a few tacks once the rig is back. I bet that might loosen it up. Or maybe just tensioning to 1000-2000 lbs would do it. -Patrick 1984 C&C LF38 On Sun, Jan 8, 2017 at 10:39 AM, Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com> wrote: > Thanks. I'll try the vinegar technique. I also have some BoatLife Release, > but was hesitant to try that because the seam will be difficult to inject > into, and the Release chemical is fairly toxic I believe. > > I have no leaking from above deck, so I probably won't be able to inject > anything from above. I'm only opening / inspecting to confirm it's not > leaking, and because I have the mast out now. > > I too had some white dust float down when I loosened the threaded rod. > > I'll try tapping up on the bolts too. > > On Sun, Jan 8, 2017 at 9:19 AM, Bruno Lachance <bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com > > wrote: > >> Patrick, >> >> I have faced the same kind of problem on my boat. It is not exactly the >> same style of chainplate, but the 33 mkII does have the same aluminum >> backing block, and it was not moving. I initially tried the wedge, the >> hammer... With no success. There was some white powder visible, sign of >> aluminum corrosion. I finally had success with white vinegar, injected with >> a syringe where I can, from the top of the deck and from below, and a >> soaked rag taped around the block. I repeated this procedure twice and >> wait... The day after, I was able to separate everything with a small tap >> on the bolt, clean and reassemble with good quality butyl. I was happy to >> find that the core was not exposed around the chainplate. >> >> Good luck. >> >> Bruno Lachance >> Becassine, 1987 33mkII >> New- Richmond, Qc. >> >> >> Envoyé de mon iPad >> >> Le 8 janv. 2017 à 11:45, Patrick Davin via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> a écrit : >> >> Anyone have experience pulling this style of chainplate? Photo uploaded >> here: https://svviolethour.com/chainplate/ >> >> Wally's site also has a good picture of one once it's open: >> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/newrig/cplates/cplates.htm >> >> Wally says his were bedded in silicone, which probably made it really >> easy to pull, but mine don't appear to be silicone - some white >> sealant/adhesive which I'm afraid might be 4200 or in the worst case 5200. >> The backing block is adhered to the fiberglass deck undersurface, and to >> the bolts of the U-bolt. >> >> But mostly it's hard to pull because the block has nothing good to grip >> on, and it's in a tight location with bulkheads / cabinetry blocking access >> to two sides. >> >> Anyone have tips for how they did it? Did the backing block come off >> easily, or were there some tricks / gotchas? >> >> I've tried: vice grips, flathead screwdrivers used as wedges and hammered >> on the end, heat gun, pulling up on the U-bolt above deck, and trying to >> pull down the backing block using the threaded rod itself (over-tensioning >> it - I stopped this before it got too scary - don't want to break it). >> >> The next things I can try are: torch (stronger than a heat gun for >> melting glue, but I don't want to burn the fiberglass or set something on >> fire). More hammering on wedges. >> >> -Patrick >> 1984 C&C LF38 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> >
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