Thanks. I'll try the vinegar technique. I also have some BoatLife Release, but was hesitant to try that because the seam will be difficult to inject into, and the Release chemical is fairly toxic I believe.
I have no leaking from above deck, so I probably won't be able to inject anything from above. I'm only opening / inspecting to confirm it's not leaking, and because I have the mast out now. I too had some white dust float down when I loosened the threaded rod. I'll try tapping up on the bolts too. On Sun, Jan 8, 2017 at 9:19 AM, Bruno Lachance <bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com> wrote: > Patrick, > > I have faced the same kind of problem on my boat. It is not exactly the > same style of chainplate, but the 33 mkII does have the same aluminum > backing block, and it was not moving. I initially tried the wedge, the > hammer... With no success. There was some white powder visible, sign of > aluminum corrosion. I finally had success with white vinegar, injected with > a syringe where I can, from the top of the deck and from below, and a > soaked rag taped around the block. I repeated this procedure twice and > wait... The day after, I was able to separate everything with a small tap > on the bolt, clean and reassemble with good quality butyl. I was happy to > find that the core was not exposed around the chainplate. > > Good luck. > > Bruno Lachance > Becassine, 1987 33mkII > New- Richmond, Qc. > > > Envoyé de mon iPad > > Le 8 janv. 2017 à 11:45, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > a écrit : > > Anyone have experience pulling this style of chainplate? Photo uploaded > here: https://svviolethour.com/chainplate/ > > Wally's site also has a good picture of one once it's open: > http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/newrig/cplates/cplates.htm > > Wally says his were bedded in silicone, which probably made it really easy > to pull, but mine don't appear to be silicone - some white sealant/adhesive > which I'm afraid might be 4200 or in the worst case 5200. The backing block > is adhered to the fiberglass deck undersurface, and to the bolts of the > U-bolt. > > But mostly it's hard to pull because the block has nothing good to grip > on, and it's in a tight location with bulkheads / cabinetry blocking access > to two sides. > > Anyone have tips for how they did it? Did the backing block come off > easily, or were there some tricks / gotchas? > > I've tried: vice grips, flathead screwdrivers used as wedges and hammered > on the end, heat gun, pulling up on the U-bolt above deck, and trying to > pull down the backing block using the threaded rod itself (over-tensioning > it - I stopped this before it got too scary - don't want to break it). > > The next things I can try are: torch (stronger than a heat gun for melting > glue, but I don't want to burn the fiberglass or set something on fire). > More hammering on wedges. > > -Patrick > 1984 C&C LF38 > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > >
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