Patrick,
Have you tried to remove the U bolt first Put the nuts back on the U bolt but not touching the block. Hit the nuts with a hammer alternating sides each hit. Once the U bolt breaks free you can tap it all the way out with a drift or pull it out from up on deck. If the block is still stuck to the liner, tap the side close to one end to get it to rotate on the rod, this should break the sealant bond and allow it to drop free. Good Luck Rick Taillieu Shearwater Yacht Club Halifax, NS. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Davin via CnC-List Sent: January-08-17 12:44 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Patrick Davin Subject: Stus-List Pulling rod chainplate backing block on LF38 Anyone have experience pulling this style of chainplate? Photo uploaded here: https://svviolethour.com/chainplate/ Wally's site also has a good picture of one once it's open: http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/newrig/cplates/cplates.htm Wally says his were bedded in silicone, which probably made it really easy to pull, but mine don't appear to be silicone - some white sealant/adhesive which I'm afraid might be 4200 or in the worst case 5200. The backing block is adhered to the fiberglass deck undersurface, and to the bolts of the U-bolt. But mostly it's hard to pull because the block has nothing good to grip on, and it's in a tight location with bulkheads / cabinetry blocking access to two sides. Anyone have tips for how they did it? Did the backing block come off easily, or were there some tricks / gotchas? I've tried: vice grips, flathead screwdrivers used as wedges and hammered on the end, heat gun, pulling up on the U-bolt above deck, and trying to pull down the backing block using the threaded rod itself (over-tensioning it - I stopped this before it got too scary - don't want to break it). The next things I can try are: torch (stronger than a heat gun for melting glue, but I don't want to burn the fiberglass or set something on fire). More hammering on wedges. -Patrick 1984 C&C LF38
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