Ken, I took a look. I take it this is what you use? Do you ever find that it runs non-stop? Does it ever get submerged, particularly the wires? Do you recall if the wires were tinned?
Josh On Mar 23, 2015 5:55 AM, "Ken Heaton" <kenhea...@gmail.com> wrote: > Hi Josh, > > You do have another option. The Rule-Mate RM1100A will fit in your bilge. > > http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/files/RM500A_750A_1100A_SS_950-0595.pdf > > Ken H. > > On 23 March 2015 at 06:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> The bildge in mine is pretty narrow and deep so the largest pump I can >> easily fit is a Rule 800 that is square. It fills the footprint of the >> well. There isn't a good place for the switch except for almost directly >> above the pump. It is a flipper style. >> >> 2 years ago I replaced the original (to me) Rule 800 with a Rule 500 >> w/rulematic controller and also kept the float/flipper switch. I also >> rewired everything. Frustrating though was that the new SUBMERSIBLE Rule >> 500 pump did not have tinned wires! And the gauge was less than desired at >> about 18awg. I read a lot about solder not being acceptable but don't >> trust crimps as much as solder. I used my best Electronic Technician's >> training from the Navy to solder all the pump's leads and used adhesive >> lined heat shrink to seal the connections. I also think I used 14awg. >> >> The flipper switch is wired so that even with the OFF-1-ALL-2 switch in >> OFF the flipper will still actuate the pump. The on/off switch for the >> pump is on the switch panel and wired such that ON actuate the rulematic >> sensor which will run the pump until no more water is in the bildge. It >> automatically senses that it is doing less work (less current) and then >> shuts off. After 2 minutes it "tests" by starting for a moment and >> measuring the current draw. If the pump is "doing work" (more current) >> then it runs until the water is gone and the cycle starts over again. So >> ON is really AUTO. >> >> Unfortunately I have found the pump running non-stop in ON so I have >> never really used the "auto" feature. I attempted to correct the back flow >> problem with a large check valve placed very close to the pump discharge. >> It still isn't perfect so I just turn it on and then turn it off while I'm >> there and let the float do it's job while I'm gone. This means that the >> pump stays submerged for a large majority of it's life because the flipper >> is mounted above the pump. >> >> I have considered using 2 pumps. The gusher 320 for getting to the >> deepest part of the bildge. And a larger 1000 or 1500gph Rule mounted >> above the sensor for the gusher. During normal operation the gusher would >> run in auto using a new level switch and keep the larger pump from becoming >> submerged. If something were to cause an increase in the water level then >> the larger pump would actuate and prevent floading/sinking. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> On Mar 23, 2015 1:45 AM, "David Blair via CnC-List" < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> I find that since there is a lift of a few feet to the discharge level >>> the integral switch causes the pump to spend its time (and my electrical >>> energy) pumping the same litre or so of water up the discharge hose, >>> waiting for it to trickle back, repumping it again, and so on. Inserting a >>> backflow preventer slows the process somewhat but not entirely. Other than >>> plumbing the discharge into the galley drain so the outflow is minimized I >>> am not sure how to stop the constant recycling. The integral switch doesn't >>> seem to have any option for adjustment and I am don't see how a separate >>> switch would be any different unless it was placed higher than the pump. >>> My boat (34+) has a small collection area - maybe a litre of water in the >>> bilge. The only source of outside water is rain down the mast, so this is >>> a periodic problem. Any solutions or suggestions? >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jake >>> Brodersen via CnC-List >>> *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 6:27 PM >>> *To:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump >>> >>> >>> >>> Sam, >>> >>> >>> >>> The integral switches are "interesting". Most of them spin the pump >>> impeller at regular intervals. If they encounter resistance, they continue >>> to run the pump until less resistance is encountered. There is nothing >>> wrong with this approach, unless you can hear the pump from your bunk. I >>> prefer pumps to be actuated by a switch than senses a need for the pump to >>> run. >>> >>> >>> >>> Jake >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> *Jake Brodersen* >>> >>> *"Midnight Mistress"* >>> >>> *C&C 35 Mk-III* >>> >>> *Hampton VA* >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com [mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com >>> <sam.c.sal...@gmail.com>] >>> *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 7:11 PM >>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump >>> >>> >>> >>> What about those solid state switches that are integral with the pump. >>> >>> Anyone have any experience with these? >>> >>> >>> >>> I've got a Whale pump like this, but haven't got around to installing it >>> yet. >>> >>> >>> >>> sam :-) >>> >>> C&C 26 Liquorice >>> >>> Ghost Lake Alberta >>> >>> >>> >>> *From: *Jake Brodersen via CnC-List >>> >>> *Sent: *Sunday, March 22, 2015 3:51 PM >>> >>> *To: *'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>> >>> *Reply To: *Jake Brodersen >>> >>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump >>> >>> >>> >>> Josh, >>> >>> >>> >>> The wiring is certainly suspect at this point in the boat's age. I >>> prefer to mount the pump low in the bilge because most of them push water >>> better than pulling it uphill. Putting it another way, they blow better >>> than they suck... >>> >>> >>> >>> You're still going to have the bilge switch in the bilge, why not locate >>> them together? Mine are side-by-side, which makes for shorter wiring runs. >>> >>> >>> >>> Jake >>> >>> >>> >>> *Jake Brodersen* >>> >>> *"Midnight Mistress"* >>> >>> *C&C 35 Mk-III* >>> >>> *Hampton VA* >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com >>> <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Josh Muckley via >>> CnC-List >>> *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 5:31 PM >>> *To:* C&C List >>> *Subject:* Stus-List 37+ Bildge pump >>> >>> >>> >>> The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again! I suspect that it >>> has to do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and causing a >>> higher resistance. I had this happen before. I'm planning on replacing >>> the Rule 500 with a Whale Gulper 320. I recognize that the capacity is >>> probably on the low side but compared to zero, 320 is a lot and it beats a >>> bucket. The gusher is a single diaphragm pump, can pass debris and has a >>> rated suction lift of 10'. So this means I can mount the pump above the >>> water and have the suction hose run into the deepest and most confined >>> space of the bildge. Hopefully getting the pump out of the water will help >>> prevent corrosion. >>> >>> Anybody have any thoughts or personal learnings? >>> >>> Josh Muckley >>> S/V Sea Hawk >>> 1989 C&C 37+ >>> Solomons, MD >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >>> bottom of page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >>> >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> >
_______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
