Hi Josh, You do have another option. The Rule-Mate RM1100A will fit in your bilge.
http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/files/RM500A_750A_1100A_SS_950-0595.pdf Ken H. On 23 March 2015 at 06:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > The bildge in mine is pretty narrow and deep so the largest pump I can > easily fit is a Rule 800 that is square. It fills the footprint of the > well. There isn't a good place for the switch except for almost directly > above the pump. It is a flipper style. > > 2 years ago I replaced the original (to me) Rule 800 with a Rule 500 > w/rulematic controller and also kept the float/flipper switch. I also > rewired everything. Frustrating though was that the new SUBMERSIBLE Rule > 500 pump did not have tinned wires! And the gauge was less than desired at > about 18awg. I read a lot about solder not being acceptable but don't > trust crimps as much as solder. I used my best Electronic Technician's > training from the Navy to solder all the pump's leads and used adhesive > lined heat shrink to seal the connections. I also think I used 14awg. > > The flipper switch is wired so that even with the OFF-1-ALL-2 switch in > OFF the flipper will still actuate the pump. The on/off switch for the > pump is on the switch panel and wired such that ON actuate the rulematic > sensor which will run the pump until no more water is in the bildge. It > automatically senses that it is doing less work (less current) and then > shuts off. After 2 minutes it "tests" by starting for a moment and > measuring the current draw. If the pump is "doing work" (more current) > then it runs until the water is gone and the cycle starts over again. So > ON is really AUTO. > > Unfortunately I have found the pump running non-stop in ON so I have never > really used the "auto" feature. I attempted to correct the back flow > problem with a large check valve placed very close to the pump discharge. > It still isn't perfect so I just turn it on and then turn it off while I'm > there and let the float do it's job while I'm gone. This means that the > pump stays submerged for a large majority of it's life because the flipper > is mounted above the pump. > > I have considered using 2 pumps. The gusher 320 for getting to the > deepest part of the bildge. And a larger 1000 or 1500gph Rule mounted > above the sensor for the gusher. During normal operation the gusher would > run in auto using a new level switch and keep the larger pump from becoming > submerged. If something were to cause an increase in the water level then > the larger pump would actuate and prevent floading/sinking. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > On Mar 23, 2015 1:45 AM, "David Blair via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > >> I find that since there is a lift of a few feet to the discharge level >> the integral switch causes the pump to spend its time (and my electrical >> energy) pumping the same litre or so of water up the discharge hose, >> waiting for it to trickle back, repumping it again, and so on. Inserting a >> backflow preventer slows the process somewhat but not entirely. Other than >> plumbing the discharge into the galley drain so the outflow is minimized I >> am not sure how to stop the constant recycling. The integral switch doesn’t >> seem to have any option for adjustment and I am don’t see how a separate >> switch would be any different unless it was placed higher than the pump. >> My boat (34+) has a small collection area – maybe a litre of water in the >> bilge. The only source of outside water is rain down the mast, so this is >> a periodic problem. Any solutions or suggestions? >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jake >> Brodersen via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 6:27 PM >> *To:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump >> >> >> >> Sam, >> >> >> >> The integral switches are “interesting”. Most of them spin the pump >> impeller at regular intervals. If they encounter resistance, they continue >> to run the pump until less resistance is encountered. There is nothing >> wrong with this approach, unless you can hear the pump from your bunk. I >> prefer pumps to be actuated by a switch than senses a need for the pump to >> run. >> >> >> >> Jake >> >> >> >> >> >> *Jake Brodersen* >> >> *“Midnight Mistress”* >> >> *C&C 35 Mk-III* >> >> *Hampton VA* >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com [mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com >> <sam.c.sal...@gmail.com>] >> *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 7:11 PM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump >> >> >> >> What about those solid state switches that are integral with the pump. >> >> Anyone have any experience with these? >> >> >> >> I've got a Whale pump like this, but haven't got around to installing it >> yet. >> >> >> >> sam :-) >> >> C&C 26 Liquorice >> >> Ghost Lake Alberta >> >> >> >> *From: *Jake Brodersen via CnC-List >> >> *Sent: *Sunday, March 22, 2015 3:51 PM >> >> *To: *'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> >> *Reply To: *Jake Brodersen >> >> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump >> >> >> >> Josh, >> >> >> >> The wiring is certainly suspect at this point in the boat’s age. I >> prefer to mount the pump low in the bilge because most of them push water >> better than pulling it uphill. Putting it another way, they blow better >> than they suck… >> >> >> >> You’re still going to have the bilge switch in the bilge, why not locate >> them together? Mine are side-by-side, which makes for shorter wiring runs. >> >> >> >> Jake >> >> >> >> *Jake Brodersen* >> >> *“Midnight Mistress”* >> >> *C&C 35 Mk-III* >> >> *Hampton VA* >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com >> <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Josh Muckley via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 5:31 PM >> *To:* C&C List >> *Subject:* Stus-List 37+ Bildge pump >> >> >> >> The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again! I suspect that it >> has to do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and causing a >> higher resistance. I had this happen before. I'm planning on replacing >> the Rule 500 with a Whale Gulper 320. I recognize that the capacity is >> probably on the low side but compared to zero, 320 is a lot and it beats a >> bucket. The gusher is a single diaphragm pump, can pass debris and has a >> rated suction lift of 10'. So this means I can mount the pump above the >> water and have the suction hose run into the deepest and most confined >> space of the bildge. Hopefully getting the pump out of the water will help >> prevent corrosion. >> >> Anybody have any thoughts or personal learnings? >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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