Mark, if you Y-connect it to the existing bilge pump discharge, don't you
worry about water going back into the bilge via the other hose?
Now a stupid(?) question to the list: can you connect a bilge pump in series
(i.e. to the same discharge hose, one pump at the bilge to keep it dry, the
other (larger capacity) above the water line (next to the discharge)).
The question has some merits (for me). I have a 1000 GPM (??) pump located
in the lazarette pulling the water through a very long hose from the bilge.
I am thinking about installing a smaller pump in the bilge (like the one
suggested for Mark). My problem is that if I could avoid, I'd rather not run
15' of a hose through the bellows of the boat (I am not looking forward to
snaking that hose behind and under all kinds of maze in the aft of the
boat). If I could just connect the new pump to the existing hose, I would be
set.
I wonder what can go wrong with this kind of installation.
thanks
Marek (in Ottawa)
-----Original Message-----
From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 5:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning
Thanks for all the advice. This is a great resource (thanks Stu). I've
read some of this info scanning different online sites - but this list
gives quick feedback on how and why.
That Whale sub pump is exactly the one I was looking at. Plus a switch.
I will take the wiring advice - heat shrink and silicone etc.
Any thoughts on the discharge?
I've read some people discharge through the galley sink drain - which
would keep the hose run short and easy --- but then I'd have to leave
that seacock open..
The other option is to Y the discharge to the current manual pump
discharge (or one of the above waterline cockpit drain hoses) - but that
would need 18'+ of hose.
Mark
-
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana
On 27/05/2014 10:51 AM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:
Dennis had a good call with heat shrink and painting with liquid
electrical tape. I took made my heat shrink about two inches longer than
the connection, and injected marine silicone inside with a syringe. When
the shrunk, silicone gushed out the ends. It has been wet often.
Maybe I'm just lucky, but my 12 year old Rule pumps and float switches are
still doing fine. I have a little 500 as the primary pump, and a big one
that stays up on a platform about six inches off the bilge, just in case.
The 500 does get clogged up with bilge gunk, and I just replaced it
because they can't be taken apart and cleaned out. One thing I do is
take a garden hose to 3/4" adapter and flush the hose out with high
pressure dock water. I'll also backflush the pump with the garden hose.
Most of the float switches I've seen fail are really due to bad wiring.
I've seen plain crimp connections just sitting in the bilge, and it's no
wonder the wire rots out. The worst, if you can believe it, was just
wires twisted together and covered with electrical tape. No kidding. I
found that down here in Mexico, as the sport fishing boat was sinking at
the dock. The guy came back to town, and when I told him that I'd saved
his boat he didn't even say thanks. Power boaters. (It probably didn't
help that I said whoever did the wiring ought to be taken out and shot.)
Wal
you CnC-List wrote:
I ran a rule float switch to one which failed that first year.
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