Quite frankly I am not sure if or who would require a manual bilge pumps, but I 
do know this...

The Marion-Bermuda Race requires two manual pumps (as does most Bermuda Races). 
 One above decks and one below decks.  Both need to function with all hatches 
closed.   So I have two of Edson's bulkhead mounted bilge pumps; one above and 
one below.  The pump below has hoses coiled and ready to go.  Discharge is 
through the heads small hatch.  Not perfect but I got tired of drilling holes 
in my hull.

And as I am a belt and suspenders kind of guy when it comes to getting water 
out of my boat I also have the engine intake on a Y  valve with a screened 
pick-up.

Hope that helps.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


From: dwight...@gmail.com
To: davidrisc...@msn.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning
Date: Wed, 28 May 2014 09:48:13 -0300






















All good stuff David…do you know
if there is a requirement to have a manual bilge pump? Seems to me there should
be in the evnt power is lost at a very inopportune time

 









From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of David via CnC-List

Sent: May 28, 2014 9:43 AM

To: CNC CNC

Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump
installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning



 



I did much research about bilge pumps and the
following are some of  my conclusions and my build set-up;

·        
Short hose runs much better than long runs

·        
Pumps should not share discharge with anything else

·        
Smooth walled hoses better than ribbed

·        
Primary pump (smaller) discharge was moved from
starboard side to port side (it dawned on me one day that launch passengers may
not want a snoot-full of my bilge water)

·        
Primary is on a bilge counter to determine pump
cycles and a problem

·        
My waterproof connections configuration is a bus
bar as high in the bilge as possible sprayed with electronic
waterproofing.  Easier to inspect and has been working for years.

·        
Secondary pump is large capacity set up with a
bilge alarm and a switch 6" above primary.

·        
Both discharges just below toerail mid-ships to
minimize run and to eliminate back-siphoning

·        
Primary is setup with a check valve to keep bilge
as dry as possible, secondary is not.





David F. Risch

(401) 419-4650 (cell)







> To: drbod...@accesswave.ca; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

> Date: Wed, 28 May 2014 08:21:59 -0400

> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump
Cleaning

> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

> 

> Mark, if you Y-connect it to the existing bilge pump discharge, don't you 

> worry about water going back into the bilge via the other hose?

> 

> Now a stupid(?) question to the list: can you connect a bilge pump in
series 

> (i.e. to the same discharge hose, one pump at the bilge to keep it dry,
the 

> other (larger capacity) above the water line (next to the discha

rge)).

> 

> The question has some merits (for me). I have a 1000 GPM (??) pump located


> in the lazarette pulling the water through a very long hose from the
bilge. 

> I am thinking about installing a smaller pump in the bilge (like the one 

> suggested for Mark). My problem is that if I could avoid, I'd rather not
run 

> 15' of a hose through the bellows of the boat (I am not looking forward to


> snaking that hose behind and under all kinds of maze in the aft of the 

> boat). If I could just connect the new pump to the existing hose, I would
be 

> set.

> 

> I wonder what can go wrong with this kind of installation.

> 

> thanks

> 

> Marek (in Ottawa)

> 

> -----Original Message----- 

> From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

> Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 5:35 PM

> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump
Cleaning

> 

> 

> Thanks for all the advice. This is a great resource (thanks Stu). I've

> read some of this info scanning different online sites - but this list

> gives quick feedback on how and why.

> 

> That Whale sub pump is exactly the one I was looking at. Plus a switch.

> 

> I will take the wiring advice - heat shrink and silicone etc.

> 

> Any thoughts on the discharge?

> I've read some people discharge through the galley sink drain - which

> would keep the hose run short and easy --- but then I'd have to leave

> that seacock open..

> 

> The other option is to Y the discharge to the current manual pump

> discharge (or one of the above waterline cockpit drain hoses) - but that

> would need 18'+ of hose.

> 

> Mark

> 

> -

> 

> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.

> - George Santayana

> 

> On 27/05/2014 10:51 AM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:

> > Dennis had a good call with heat shrink and painting with liquid 

> > electrical tape. I took made my heat shrink about two inches longer
than 

> > the connection, and injected marine silicone inside with a syringe.
When 

> > the shrunk, silicone gushed out the ends. It has been wet often.

> >

> > Maybe I'm just lucky, but my 12 year old Rule pumps and float
switches are 

> > still doing fine. I have a little 500 as the primary pump, and a big
one 

> > that stays up on a platform about six inches off the bilge, just in
case. 

> > The 500 does get clogged up with bilge gunk, and I just replaced it 

> > because they can't be taken apart and cleaned out. One thing I do is 

> > take a garden hose to 3/4" adapter and flush the hose out with
high 

> > pressure dock water. I'll also backflush the pump with the garden
hose.

> >

> > Most of the float switches I've seen fail are really due to bad
wiring. 

> > I've seen plain crimp connections just sitting in the bilge, and it's
no 

> > wonder the wire rots out. The worst, if you can believe it, was just 

> > wires twisted together and covered with electrical tape. No kidding.
I 

> > found that down here in Mexico, as the sport fishing boat
was sinking at 

> > the dock. The guy came back to town, and when I told him that I'd
saved 

> > his boat he didn't even say thanks. Power boaters. (It probably
didn't 

> > help that I said whoever did the wiring ought to be taken out and
shot.)

> >

> > Wal

> >

> >

> >

> > you CnC-List wrote:

> >> I ran a rule float switch to one which failed that first year.

> >

> >

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> >

> 

> 

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