I wired a 500 gpm Rule pump straight to the panel (through a connector under
the dinette seat). The pump comes with long enough wires that any connection
is completely up in the (dry) seat area, but I still used Anchor connectors
with built in heat shrink. So far, so good. I expect it will fail for some
reason (way down under the mast step) so am planning another diaphragm pump
with a hose down there. I've done this before. The pump itself just craps
out.
I worry little about the fact I have to turn it on and off, as I live less
than a block from the boat and it is in an active yard - they will call if
there is any problem (plus I draw five feet and am in about six feet of
water at low tide, seven to eight at high). And.... there is not enough room
in the deep part of the bilge for a pump and a switch - I have found the
automatic 'all in one' pumps seem to die earlier than manual ones.
Just replaced the Whale Gusher (I think OEM) after 33 years - you would
think those things would be durable - this time, I will use it every so
often - it was virtually welded together from corrosion.
Gary
30-1, 1980
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 9:51 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning
Dennis had a good call with heat shrink and painting with liquid
electrical tape. I took made my heat shrink about two inches longer than
the connection, and injected marine silicone inside with a syringe. When
the shrunk, silicone gushed out the ends. It has been wet often.
Maybe I'm just lucky, but my 12 year old Rule pumps and float switches are
still doing fine. I have a little 500 as the primary pump, and a big one
that stays up on a platform about six inches off the bilge, just in case.
The 500 does get clogged up with bilge gunk, and I just replaced it
because they can't be taken apart and cleaned out. One thing I do is
take a garden hose to 3/4" adapter and flush the hose out with high
pressure dock water. I'll also backflush the pump with the garden hose.
Most of the float switches I've seen fail are really due to bad wiring.
I've seen plain crimp connections just sitting in the bilge, and it's no
wonder the wire rots out. The worst, if you can believe it, was just
wires twisted together and covered with electrical tape. No kidding. I
found that down here in Mexico, as the sport fishing boat was sinking at
the dock. The guy came back to town, and when I told him that I'd saved
his boat he didn't even say thanks. Power boaters. (It probably didn't
help that I said whoever did the wiring ought to be taken out and shot.)
Wal
you CnC-List wrote:
I ran a rule float switch to one which failed that first year.
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