As far as sharing a hose for more than one pump... I can share a story... My boat started to take on water through the stuffing box. It was totally my fault, I didn't lock down the lock nut as my plan was to adjust the the packing nut after running a bit. The rotation of the shaft totally loosened the packing nut while under way. Anyway, the auto pump wasn't keeping up, I didn't have a screen over the end of the hose and the hose for auto pump got plugged. Luckily, I had the secondary pump with a separate hose and outlet to rely on to keep pumping. If the same had happened I'd still have had the manual whale pump to go to on a yet another separate hose and outlet.
You know, the garbage that plugged the hose had actually gone through the diaphragm pump and got stuck at an insert coupling. This is a long run of hose and I mis judged the length. So in a moment of "just get it done for God's sake" I used an insert coupling... Oh and as an aside, I use those shrink tubes with the goo in them. It oozes out when you shrink them and really seals everything up nice. I used to use them when I was doing work on submersible well pumps and the wire connections always outlasted the pumps. Some well water can be very corrosive. I've seen it make sprinkler systems out a copper water piping in homes. The home I live in now was one of them when I bought it... My vote goes to separate hose and outlet for each pump. Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA ---------- Original Message ---------- From: dwight via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: "'Marek Dziedzic'" <dziedzi...@hotmail.com>, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning Date: Wed, 28 May 2014 09:42:47 -0300 Marek I think it is best if the automatic electric bilge pump exits high near the toe rail and before exiting a complete loop in the hose is a good idea and as suggested a check valve nearer the bilge can help too, that way when the pump shuts down all the water remaining in the hose won't flow back down into the bilge...my manual Whale gusher 10 pump which is mounted high (above the cockpit sole in the port lazerette exits out the stern of the boat, with a downhill slope from the pump to the exit point at the stern...I am not sure I would want both pumps exiting through the same hose and in my case it would be impractical because of how far the manual pump is located aft of the bilge...I would have to get the ayutomatic pump hose at least aft of that pump -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List Sent: May 28, 2014 9:22 AM To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning Mark, if you Y-connect it to the existing bilge pump discharge, don't you worry about water going back into the bilge via the other hose? Now a stupid(?) question to the list: can you connect a bilge pump in series (i.e. to the same discharge hose, one pump at the bilge to keep it dry, the other (larger capacity) above the water line (next to the discharge)). The question has some merits (for me). I have a 1000 GPM (??) pump located in the lazarette pulling the water through a very long hose from the bilge. I am thinking about installing a smaller pump in the bilge (like the one suggested for Mark). My problem is that if I could avoid, I'd rather not run 15' of a hose through the bellows of the boat (I am not looking forward to snaking that hose behind and under all kinds of maze in the aft of the boat). If I could just connect the new pump to the existing hose, I would be set. I wonder what can go wrong with this kind of installation. thanks Marek (in Ottawa) -----Original Message----- From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 5:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning Thanks for all the advice. This is a great resource (thanks Stu). I've read some of this info scanning different online sites - but this list gives quick feedback on how and why. That Whale sub pump is exactly the one I was looking at. Plus a switch. I will take the wiring advice - heat shrink and silicone etc. Any thoughts on the discharge? I've read some people discharge through the galley sink drain - which would keep the hose run short and easy --- but then I'd have to leave that seacock open.. The other option is to Y the discharge to the current manual pump discharge (or one of the above waterline cockpit drain hoses) - but that would need 18'+ of hose. Mark - There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 27/05/2014 10:51 AM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote: > Dennis had a good call with heat shrink and painting with liquid > electrical tape. I took made my heat shrink about two inches longer than > the connection, and injected marine silicone inside with a syringe. When > the shrunk, silicone gushed out the ends. It has been wet often. > > Maybe I'm just lucky, but my 12 year old Rule pumps and float switches are > still doing fine. I have a little 500 as the primary pump, and a big one > that stays up on a platform about six inches off the bilge, just in case. > The 500 does get clogged up with bilge gunk, and I just replaced it > because they can't be taken apart and cleaned out. One thing I do is > take a garden hose to 3/4" adapter and flush the hose out with high > pressure dock water. I'll also backflush the pump with the garden hose. > > Most of the float switches I've seen fail are really due to bad wiring. > I've seen plain crimp connections just sitting in the bilge, and it's no > wonder the wire rots out. The worst, if you can believe it, was just > wires twisted together and covered with electrical tape. No kidding. I > found that down here in Mexico, as the sport fishing boat was sinking at > the dock. The guy came back to town, and when I told him that I'd saved > his boat he didn't even say thanks. Power boaters. (It probably didn't > help that I said whoever did the wiring ought to be taken out and shot.) > > Wal > > > > you CnC-List wrote: >> I ran a rule float switch to one which failed that first year. > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
