>As a cruiser, I’m a great believer in big anchors and lots of chain. The two >anchors on the bow are a 20kg Bruce and a 35 lb. CQR, each with 65 ft. of >chain. Stored below as a backup is an FX37 with 30 ft. of ¼”G4 chain, and an >FX23 with 20 ft. of ¼” G4 chain as a lunch hook.<
>I told my local PHRF handicapper about an article from Yacht Racing magazine >(Nov, 1975) that talked about how a race winning C&C 38 had been set up for >racing. Seems adding 100 pounds forward would change the trim enough to >increase the IOR handicap. Then I asked him, in jest, for a PHRF rating >adjustment for my anchors and chain. He actually thought I was serious about >the request.< Here in the PNW we have mostly deep anchorages. Even when racing Calypso carries 90’ chain, 250’ rode, and a 65lb CQR as the primary anchoring gear. I do move the CQR off the bow when racing but am able to have it hooked back up in 10 minutes if I need the parking brake. On top of all the excellent anchoring advice already posted on the topic of scope, I take a good look at what other anchor gear is being used prior to picking my spot and paying out rode. If my neighbors are laying to all chain they will swing (to wind and current) differently than a mix of chain and rode. The deepest I have anchored in was 200’. I was backing up to a cliff in ½ way up Vancouver Island (near Desolation Sound). I put out the 90’ of chain and 140’ of rode and backed towards the cliff until the anchor lodged in the rock. With a stern line to a big rock on shore and calm conditions forecast for the next few days we enjoyed a spot with no neighbors, an eagle nest directly astern and views of 3,000 foot peaks either side. Being less than completely comfortable with the anchoring arrangement I drank a big glass of water before retiring for the night. In a few hours I was up on deck “checking the anchor line”. I repeated the big glass of water to be sure I would be up to check the anchor every few hours as the tide changed. Martin Calypso 1971 C&C 43 Seattle (re-launching today after 25 days in the yard) From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 8:05 PM To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Thousand Islands - now anchor tips Sorry for the typo, I meant 5:1… Honestly. I’d not read the information about Fortress recommending setting the anchor at 2.5:1. Next time I use mine I will try that. A fortress can be a bitch to set. I have also read comments about Fortress anchors “floating” along a soft bottom as a result of having too much chain, so the chains on the two I have aboard are relatively short. As a cruiser, I’m a great believer in big anchors and lots of chain. The two anchors on the bow are a 20kg Bruce and a 35 lb CQR, each with 65 ft of chain. Stored below as a backup is an FX37 with 30 ft of ¼”G4 chain, and an FX23 with 20 ft of ¼” G4 chain as a lunch hook. My chain is marked with a flag every 10 ft, and the nylon is marked as yours. In water up to 20 ft I will let the rode out to the point where the rope to chain splice is at the surface, and let the nylon up to the bow roller act as a snubber. That gets me between 3:1 and a bit over 5:1 depending on depth. In more than 20 ft, I let the appropriate rode marker touch the water as you do, using 4:1 as an initial scope, and increasing the scope up to about 7:1 in high winds and in deeper water where there is more nylon out.. I told my local PHRF handicapper about an article from Yacht Racing magazine (Nov, 1975) that talked about how a race winning C&C 38 had been set up for racing. Seems adding 100 pounds forward would change the trim enough to increase the IOR handicap. Then I asked him, in jest, for a PHRF rating adjustment for my anchors and chain. He actually thought I was serious about the request. Rick Brass
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