David,
Check the on the two wires you removed from the switch. One should be the hot
wire from the ignition switch (or battery), the other should be the "hot" wire
to the solenoid. If you have continuity across the two wires, it probably
means there is a smallcarbon build up on the contacts in the solenoid. The
complete circuit would be a "reverse' circuit starting from the connection of
the positive wire to starter switch then to the + pole of the battery through
the battery then from the ground of the battery through the engine and solenoid
then to the end of the negative wire you removed from the battery. To really
verify this, check continuity from the small positive wire on the solenoid to
the engine.
Wouldn't surprise me at all. Probably not a problem. Just because you have
continuity doesn't mean you have a large current draw.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>________________________________
> From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 5:54 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
>
>
>
>I was thinking about this issue today and remembered something that might be
>relevant. When I was checking the panel, I was surprised to find that I had
>continuity between the two poles of the starter switch. When I disconnected
>the wires from the switch, the poles worked appropriately: no continuity until
>I pressed the start button. That sounds to me like I somehow had a complete
>circuit between the two sides of the starter wires, which does not sound
>right. It still should not have power with the battery selector off, so I
>don't see how that is connected to the arcing.
>As to the bilge pump- it is a float switch.
>As to other powered stuff- I will have to check on other things like stereo as
>I have not turned many things on yet to see if there are any that are direct
>connection to the battery other than the bilge pump. I noticed there are two
>sets of red cables coming off the battery, so I will have to trace where they
>go. I am sure that is going to be fun! Dave
>
>
>On Jul 13, 2013, at 12:22 PM, "Jake Brodersen" <captain_j...@cox.net> wrote:
>
>Dave,
>>
>>The output wire from your alternator should go through the battery switch on
>>the way to the battery, as well should the main starter wire. There
>>shouldn’t be anything consuming power that is grounded to the engine with the
>>switch off. I would think that the bilge pump and radio are grounded to a
>>bus bar somewhere and not to your engine.
>>
>>Jake
>>
>>Jake Brodersen
>>C&C 35 Mk-III
>>Midnight Mistress
>>Hampton VA
>>
>><image001.jpg>
>>
>>
>>
>>From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
>>Knecht
>>Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 11:34 PM
>>To: CnC CnC discussion list
>>Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
>>
>>I wanted to report back to the list on what is hopefully the resolution of my
>>engine starting problems. To recap, I was having intermittent problems where
>>pressing the start switch led to nothing until last week when I could not get
>>it to turn over at all. Following various list suggestions, I started with
>>the engine panel and found that the start switch seemed to be working fine
>>and the contacts looked clean. I looked at the starter and solenoid and it
>>was so hard to get to the contacts that I passed on that possibility for the
>>time being. I then had a discussion with the mechanic at the broker where I
>>bought the boat and he said that in his experience 9/10 times the problem was
>>the engine ground connection. So I went back to the boat and took that apart
>>and cleaned the cable ends. When I tried the starter again, the engine
>>turned over immediately and started up. So I think the problem is solved.
>>It was a PITA job as usual with engines,
since the placement of the ground connection forced me to rest sideways with
my head supporting my upper body while my hips and legs rested on the rear
mattress. I am beginning the think that if I have a next boat, engine access
will become my primary concern over sailing characteristics.
>>One unresolved issue I would like advice on. When I took the ground wires
>>(3) off the engine I got a significant spark as they were pulled away from
>>the block. The same thing happened when I tried to reconnect them. I
>>resorted to disconnecting the batteries until I had the ground back in place.
>> This was with the battery switch off, so nothing should have been powered
>>except the emergency bilge pump. The mechanic seemed unconcerned when I
>>reported back to him, but I wonder if anyone has an idea what the presence of
>>this apparently live circuit means.
>>Thanks for all the help from the list resolving this issue. Dave
>>
>>On Jul 6, 2013, at 8:20 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>Hi Dave,
>>Don't lose faith. You bought a great boat, and Universal made a great engine
>>for it.
>>First, the starter is bolted to the engine and both are grounded to the
>>battery negative. The starter motor is looking for the red positive to run.
>>
>>The starter has two big terminals (power) and two smaller terminals
>>(solenoid) on it. The starter button completes a control circuit to power
>>the solenoid, which closes larger contacts that power the starter. When the
>>starter gets power, the little motor spins and throws a shaft toward the
>>flywheel and it's gear meshes with the flywheel and turns it, turning over
>>the engine.
>>
>>When the thing don't start, you can short the terminals with a big
>>screwdriver to make it go. There will be a small spark when you do this, so
>>be sure no oil spills are close and no combustibles like propane are present.
>> When you short the small terminals, you are bypassing the starter button.
>>When you short the two big terminals, you are bypassing the solenoid
>>contacts. If either trick works, it indicates rebuilding the starter. If it
>>doesn't turn over the engine after trying both tricks, you need a rebuilt or
>>new starter. An auto starter guy will cost less than a marine guy. So I
>>recommend marking and removing the four wires and two bolts and taking it to
>>a starter shop.
>>
>>A single Auto Jumper cable can also be used to bypass suspected problems.
>>Just use logic. Look for Diesel Maintenance book by Nigel Calder or Don
>>Casey.
>>Mechanics use a trick: take a jumper attach the alligator clip it to the
>>battery's positive terminal and touch the other end to the big terminal on
>>the starter.
>>Chuck
>>Resolute
>>1990 C&C 34R
>>Atlantic City, NJ
>>
>>________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>David Knecht
>>Aries
>>1990 C&C 34+
>>New London, CT
>>
>><image002.png>
>>
_______________________________________________
>>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>
>David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility
>Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
>U-3125
>91 N. Eagleville Rd.
>University of Connecticut
>Storrs, CT 06269
>860-486-2200
>860-486-4331 (fax)
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
_______________________________________________
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