Thanks Josh...one of my next projects... David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 13:34:43 -0400 From: muckl...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 1989 C&C 37+ rudder rebuild The link for pictures was in a post from a few weeks ago. Here's the link again: https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA/edit Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD -- When security matters. http://www.secure-my-email.com On Mar 17, 2013 11:07 AM, "David Risch" <davidrisc...@msn.com> wrote: Josh, I missed your pictures. Where are they? Thanks! David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 22:08:16 -0400 From: muckl...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 1989 C&C 37+ rudder rebuild Glad to hear I was able to help. Steve used heaters and fans for almost a week to dry mine. He also sand boasted the remnants of foam out. The way he described the foam it is able to withstand 4 pound per square inch. Don't forget to re-encapsulate the shaft and welds. Also don't forget to bond the metal web structure to the skin on both sides. The side on bottom is easy, just use thickened epoxy and fill in the space. Then add some fiberglass mat. Once you have the foam in and shaped, cut out an area on each metal web where you can back fill with thickened epoxy. This will allow the top skin to be bonded to the web. One more thing he told me was that the fiberglass mat he used was wrapped around to the other side almost 4 inches all around. This prevents splitting at the seams. He raved about a mat that is woven on one side and chop on the other and appears to be "quilted" together. He said that the resin doesn't stick as well between two woven mats but cropped mat is weaker so the product he used/recommended capitalized on both strengths. He said the original skin was "flimsy" and probably only 4 ply. He made his 7 ply. He also fared and block sanded both sides due to the considerable deformation that had occurred to the uncut side from years of freeze/thaw. Thanks for keeping me posted, I look forward to updates. Josh -- When security matters. http://www.secure-my-email.com On Mar 16, 2013 9:35 PM, "John Schumpert" <jmschump...@gmail.com> wrote: Hi Josh, Based on the well documented report of your rudder repair, I decided to tackle this job myself for my 34+ which has the same rudder shape as yours. You mentioned 4 lbs. foam -- is this 4 lb./cubic ft. density? I have the skin removed from one side and the old saturated foam removed. The welds seem to be OK and the inside looks pretty much like yours except that there is a lot more epoxy or whatever resin they used around the leading edge. After I let it dry out for a few more days I'll pour the foam and then begin the glass work. Thanks for sharing the pics of the project. Monty Scandia 1991 C&C 34+ Annapolis, MD On Wednesday, February 13, 2013, Josh Muckley wrote: Hey everyone just wanted to share some pictures of the rudder rebuild on my 1989 C&C 37+. Steve Uhthoff at Annapolis Gelcoat and Fiberglass did a fantastic job and gave fantastic support. As a bit of a background on the boat and the rudder. I bought it May 2012. At the time of the survey it was noted that the rudder had high moisture though no movement over the shaft was noted. The exact extent of condition could not be determined. I decided that the rudder was absolutely going to be the first repair project during the winter haul out. Steve identified a specific design deficiency in that the stainless steel arms were not bonded to either of the skins. Little or no stiffness was being provided by the arms. He did on the other hand find that all of the welds and the shaft were completely encapsulated and that no oxidation had occurred. He removed all of the old foam core. Bonded the arms to one of the skins. Re-foamed the core with 4lbs foam. Created bonding pads in the core so that the arms could be bonded to the new top skin. He fiberglassed the foam in place with 7 layers and vinylester teeing. Finished it off with 3 coats of barrier coat and faring compound on both sides. I probably mis-stated some part of the job being that I am not an fiberglass expert but the long story made short is that I am exceedingly happy with the outcome as well as the knowledge, expertise, and professionalism demonstrated by Steve and his staff. Regardless of where you get your rudder rebuilt I hope the pictures help some of you to at least pre-plan by seeing what you are getting into. Good Luck. Annapolis Gelcoat & Fiberglass Repairs P.O. Box 3438 Annapolis, MD 21403 Office: 410-263-8980 Fax: 410-280-2639 http://www.annapolisgelcoat.com Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Maryland -- Want to email me privately? Check out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GNU_Privacy_Guard Then get my public key at: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yU0R5RHBOS2h3MFk/edit _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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