Glad to hear I was able to help.  Steve used heaters and fans for almost a
week to dry mine.  He also sand boasted the remnants of foam out.  The way
he described the foam it is able to withstand 4 pound per square inch.
Don't forget to re-encapsulate the shaft and welds.  Also don't forget to
bond the metal web structure to the skin on both sides.  The side on bottom
is easy, just use thickened epoxy and fill in the space.  Then add some
fiberglass mat.  Once you have the foam in and shaped, cut out an area on
each metal web where you can back fill with thickened epoxy.  This will
allow the top skin to be bonded to the web.

One more thing he told me was that the fiberglass mat he used was wrapped
around to the other side almost 4 inches all around.  This prevents
splitting at the seams.  He raved about a mat that is woven on one side and
chop on the other and appears to be "quilted" together.  He said that the
resin doesn't stick as well between two woven mats but cropped mat is
weaker so the product he used/recommended capitalized on both strengths.
He said the original skin was "flimsy" and probably only 4 ply.  He made
his 7 ply.  He also fared and block sanded both sides due to the
considerable deformation that had occurred to the uncut side from years of
freeze/thaw.

Thanks for keeping me posted, I look forward to updates.

Josh

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On Mar 16, 2013 9:35 PM, "John Schumpert" <jmschump...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Josh,
>
> Based  on the well documented report of your rudder repair, I decided to
> tackle this job myself for my 34+ which has the same rudder shape as yours.
> You mentioned 4 lbs. foam -- is this 4 lb./cubic ft. density? I have the
> skin removed from one side and the old saturated foam removed. The welds
> seem to be OK and the inside looks pretty much like yours except that there
> is a lot more epoxy or whatever resin they used around the leading edge.
> After I let it dry out for a few more days I'll pour the foam and then
> begin the glass work. Thanks for sharing the pics of the project.
>
> Monty
> Scandia
> 1991 C&C 34+
> Annapolis, MD
>
> On Wednesday, February 13, 2013, Josh Muckley wrote:
>
>> Hey everyone just wanted to share some pictures of the rudder rebuild on
>> my 1989 C&C 37+.  Steve Uhthoff at Annapolis Gelcoat and Fiberglass did a
>> fantastic job and gave fantastic support.
>>
>> As a bit of a background on the boat and the rudder.  I bought it May
>> 2012.  At the time of the survey it was noted that the rudder had high
>> moisture though no movement over the shaft was noted.  The exact extent of
>> condition could not be determined.  I decided that the rudder was
>> absolutely going to be the first repair project during the winter haul out.
>>
>> Steve identified a specific design deficiency in that the stainless steel
>> arms were not bonded to either of the skins.  Little or no stiffness was
>> being provided by the arms.  He did on the other hand find that all of the
>> welds and the shaft were completely encapsulated and that no oxidation had
>> occurred.  He removed all of the old foam core.  Bonded the arms to one of
>> the skins.  Re-foamed the core with 4lbs foam.  Created bonding pads in the
>> core so that the arms could be bonded to the new top skin.  He fiberglassed
>> the foam in place with 7 layers and vinylester teeing.  Finished it off
>> with 3 coats of barrier coat and faring compound on both sides.  I probably
>> mis-stated some part of the job being that I am not an fiberglass expert
>> but the long story made short is that I am exceedingly happy with the
>> outcome as well as the knowledge, expertise, and professionalism
>> demonstrated by Steve and his staff.
>>
>> Regardless of where you get your rudder rebuilt I hope the pictures help
>> some of you to at least pre-plan by seeing what you are getting into.  Good
>> Luck.
>>
>> Annapolis Gelcoat & Fiberglass Repairs
>> P.O. Box 3438 Annapolis, MD 21403
>> Office: 410-263-8980
>> Fax: 410-280-2639
>> http://www.annapolisgelcoat.com
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Maryland
>>
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