I don't have a diagram, but I can try to work something up. It may take me a little while though.
Perhaps a better description will work. Let's start at the sea water inlet and work through the system. 1. Raw water inlet: The raw water input comes from the seacock and goes up through a "tee" to the sink drain. This tee is for the line that goes to the hand pump inlet on the head (Peggy Hall suggestion). The reason for this is so that you can close the raw water seacock, fill the sink with fresh water and flush the fresh water throught the head. This is to remove the micro-organisms from the head plumbing that tend to stink really bad if left in the hoses for a week or so. It is much better to do this rather than making any drirect connection to your potable water system (for obvious reasons). 2. Anti-syphon: The outlet of the head hand pump (that usually goes to the bowl, is disconnected and a anti-syphon valve is inserted. So, the hose leaves the pump, goes up above the heeled water line to the anti-syphon valve. It then returns to the bowl. This is to prevent flooding of the boat should a valve be left in the wrong position by the uninitiated user. This concludes the raw water circuit. 3. Head output: The sewage output of the bowl goes to a fitting on the side of my transverse tank (port side), near the top. A piece of pvc pipe is cemented inside this fitting and extends the head output to the other side of the tank (starboard). This is my idea, and it assures that when the boat is heeled to port (my head is on the port side), and the tank is raised above the level of the bowl by the heeling, the extended fitting is now above the efluent. This prevents drain-back to the bowl. When the boat is heeled to starboard, the extended fitting is now in the efluent, but by heeling to starboard the tank is below the head and no syphoning can occur. This keeps efluent from going back to the bowl when the boat is heeled in either direction. 4. Tank output. The output of my tank is taken from the side of the tank (near the bottom and goes to a "Y" valve. One side of the "Y" goes up to the deck fitting and the other goes through a Jacobson waste pump to the outlet seacock. The "Y" valve is lockable and the waste pump has a key switch, all to prevent accidental discharge overboard. This means that all waste goes through the tank which is not a disatvantage as far as I am concerned. 5. Tank vent(s): I have two 5/8" vent fittings on my tank (one top port and one top starboard). One goes out just below the toe rail on the port side and the other on the starboard side. To prevent a septic tank, you can never have enough vents. It might be a good idea to put a charcoal filter in these lines, but so far I haven't done this. That's my system, and I'm quite happy with it. Any questions, fire away. If that doesn't work, I'll try to post a diagram. Gary S/V Expresso On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 6:09 AM, Richard N. Bush <bushma...@aol.com> wrote: > **Gary, I have to confess I didn't quite get all of the finer points of > your description; would you possibly have a diagram or drawing of the > system? Thanks > > Richard > 1987 33-II; Ohio River, Mile 584 > > > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > 235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor > Louisville, Kentucky 40202 > 502-584-7255 >
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