My Atlantis rear spacing is 135mm.
Angus
On Sep 22, 6:10 pm, BEN STAGGS wrote:
> Hi, can a Atlantis accept an Ultegra 700c rear wheel? This is a standard road
> bike wheel.
>
> sincerely yours, Ben S.
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You received this message because you a
Yes, the Atlantis has always been 135mm.
It's about the only "downside" if you even want to call it that
of 135mm spacing is you can't use pre-made road wheels. . . . and
there simply isn't as many choices for non disc mtb hubs these
days. at least ones that I'd want to buy.
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On Wed, 2009-09-23 at 04:41 -0700, Garth wrote:
>
>
> Yes, the Atlantis has always been 135mm.
>
> It's about the only "downside" if you even want to call it that
> of 135mm spacing is you can't use pre-made road wheels. . . . and
> there simply isn't as many choices for non disc mtb hub
Or White Industries?
From: Steve Palincsar
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 6:49:35 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Rear Wheel spacing
. and
> there simply isn't as many choices for non disc mtb hubs these
> days. at least on
My friend toured on his LHT (135 rear spacing) using Ultegra hubs and
had no problems at all. It's probably not optimal but from his
experience it seems to work.
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O
Your LBS should have some decent quality axle spacers.
With a little effort - two spacers on the axle, one freewheel guard to
pull out the low gear far enough for the derailleur to hit
consistently (Bikesnobnyc will mock me for riding with a pie plate -
but I would rather be able to hit the gear
First let me say that the Hillborne is an awesome looking bike and
seems to have incredible versatility. It is truly a unique bike!
What I'm wondering about is the sparse sizing available for
Rivendell's expanded geometry frames, such as the Hillborne. As I
understand it, the reasoning beh
Well . . . there is no perfect way to do things though is there :)
Do the frames like the Sam fit a wider range of riders? Only time
and their sales figures will show that I suppose.
I'm with you about TT and bar height though. The seat tube height
isn't nearly so important as those two. W
Would a pie plate be necessary to re-space from 130 to 135? I'm about
to re-space a dura ace hub for a "go fast" I'm building.
On Sep 23, 8:50 am, JoelMatthews wrote:
> Your LBS should have some decent quality axle spacers.
>
> With a little effort - two spacers on the axle, one freewheel guar
I'd buy the White or Phil . . .they are as good as it gets. These
are on the high end though. Then you have the cheap Shimano mtb hubs.
There is not much in between.
I won't use cup/cone hubs anymore. My last pair was 105's from the
90's and the bearing races were shot in less than one year.
R
I've respaced two hubs recently for a couple of 135 Riv builds, both using
new Shimano 105 130mm rears. Extra 5mm spacer on the left side (right next
to the current 5mm spacer), re-center the axle so there's 2.5mm sticking out
on each side, redish and works wonderfully. Can be done with 105s and
Ul
I'd buy the White or Phil . . .they are as good as it gets. These
are on the high end though. Then you have the cheap Shimano mtb hubs.
There is not much in between.
I won't use cup/cone hubs anymore. My last pair was 105's from the
90's and the bearing races were shot in less than one year.
R
> 2. Brooks B-68"S"
THIS ITEM SOLD
Other items still available.
Beth
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To
I think with the casette you have more flexibility than I had with the
old freewheel and can avoid the pie plate. You will probably need to
use an axle spacer on either side.
On Sep 23, 9:30 am, Cycletex wrote:
> Would a pie plate be necessary to re-space from 130 to 135? I'm about
> to re-spac
I'm not 100% sure about this, but I suppose if you think of the
limiting factor as handlebar height, then frames with upsloping top
tubes do provide a wider range of adjustment per frame size. Rarely
(at least among the circle of riders who would be interested in these
bikes) do we hear anyone tal
on 9/23/09 7:30 AM, Cycletex at clifwrightpho...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Would a pie plate be necessary to re-space from 130 to 135? I'm about
> to re-space a dura ace hub for a "go fast" I'm building.
Shouldn't be. At most the smallest sprocket would be moved 2.5 mm inward.
I respaced a Dura Ace
Too much is made of "frame fit", IMO, since the frame is only a base
to hang parts on. A theoretically suboptimal frame size can usually be
made to work (and work well) using different stems, saddle offsets,
etc. I have owned and enjoyed bikes from 50 cm to 61 cm (all
"traditional" geometries), th
on 9/23/09 6:56 AM, newenglandbike at matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
> What I'm wondering about is the sparse sizing available for
> Rivendell's expanded geometry frames, such as the Hillborne. As I
> understand it, the reasoning behind offering fewer sizes of these
> frames is that one size wil
> Now, the full range of stem quill adjustment more closely
> matches the range of human comfort levels.
This flexibility, and of course the aesthetics, are why I remain a big
fan of quill stems.
On Sep 23, 10:51 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
> Too much is made of "frame fit", IMO, s
> The Hillborne-type frame is not just the upsloping top tube. By choosing a
> specific angle of HT and ST, you can pretty effectively mimic larger frame
> sizes without necessarily having to build a bigger frame. As you lengthen
> the saddle and handlebar height for larger riders, they move in r
Joel, not to stray too far OT, but I disagree. Raising and lowering a
threadless, clamp-on type stem is not much more difficult that doing
the same thing with a quill stem, provided the steerer tube hasn't
been cut too short (and obviously, that's a big IF). When it comes to
actually swapping a st
I should also point out that a threadless stem aesthetics can be
improved with expanded geometry, because the frame design renders a
big stack of spacers unnecessary.
On Sep 23, 11:08 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
> Joel, not to stray too far OT, but I disagree. Raising and lowering a
On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 12:08 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
>
> Joel, not to stray too far OT, but I disagree. Raising and lowering a
> threadless, clamp-on type stem is not much more difficult that doing
> the same thing with a quill stem, provided the steerer tube hasn't
> been cut to
my experience is that I can get so close to perfect fit if the the
basic contact point dimensions are similar. dialing in is relatively
easy to do with quill height, extension, seatpost height, setback.
however, at certain points there are aesthetic compromises and wacko
handling that begin to d
We built up an old RB-1 awhile back where the owner had a color
preference for black rather than silver. Black quill stems of the
desired style/quality were not widely available, so, after
contemplating a home-anodizing kit and how/where we'd store the big
bucket of acid, we opted for a quill adap
On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 12:23 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
>
> We built up an old RB-1 awhile back where the owner had a color
> preference for black rather than silver. Black quill stems of the
> desired style/quality were not widely available, so, after
> contemplating a home-anodizi
Yep, it was fine, but not much adjustment beyond a low-ish handlebar
position, without looking goofy.
On Sep 23, 11:25 am, Seth Vidal wrote:
> On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 12:23 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
>
> wrote:
>
> > We built up an old RB-1 awhile back where the owner had a color
> > pref
> Aesthetics is a personal thing, much of it rooted in nostalgia. I doubt many
> people born after 1980 will ever
> pine for the aesthetics of a quill stem.
But studies on human notions of what is attractive do show most prefer
symmetry.
What I like about quill aesthetics - and I imagine the re
On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 12:40 PM, JoelMatthews wrote:
>
>> Aesthetics is a personal thing, much of it rooted in nostalgia. I doubt many
>> people born after 1980 will ever
>> pine for the aesthetics of a quill stem.
>
> But studies on human notions of what is attractive do show most prefer
> sym
Seth
I have many, many miles on my Atlantis with threaded to threadless
adaptors - first a 1" nitto with a shim, then a VO, then a 1 1/8"
nitto - all with the nice, silver VO or nitto 5EX stems. In my
opinion, and for my use, there have been no downsides - it's the best
of both worlds - easy hand
Or Chris King. Everyone loves King headsets, but their hubs (which
are excellent) don't get much love on this forum.
On Sep 23, 5:41 am, Bruce wrote:
> Or White Industries?
>
>
> From: Steve Palincsar
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, S
I imagine the reason King and some of the other small volume high
quality hub makers such as Paul run into is the price. For most
people buying Riv type bikes White or Phil Wood provide as much
functionality for the money that they need.
I mentioned my Maxi-Car hubs aboce. My understanding is M
On Sep 23, 2009, at 11:42, 40_Acres wrote:
>
> Or Chris King. Everyone loves King headsets, but their hubs (which
> are excellent) don't get much love on this forum.
Maybe it's the horrible noise they make!
I bought a CK wheelset several years ago, went on two rides, then sold
them. That b
Aesthetics is a personal thing, much of it rooted in nostalgia. I
doubt many people born after 1980 will ever
> pine for the aesthetics of a quill stem.
I agree. I came of age when good bikes came with threadless and
cheaper bikes came with a quill. I have come to love the look of a
quill stem,
On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 3:30 PM, cm wrote:
>
> I agree. I came of age when good bikes came with threadless and
> cheaper bikes came with a quill. I have come to love the look of a
> quill stem, but more in the way I can appreciate a classic car, 8
> tracks, and black and white tv.
I would agree
I agree with you that threadless isnt an advancement, but I think the
perception amongst younger riders is that it is. My gut reaction is
that nice bikes have threadless and old/cheaper bikes have quills;
though I logically know this to not be true.
Cheers!
cm
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I've used adapters/threadless stems on a couple of my bikes. This type
of setup ...
1) has easy adjustability and swapability, as has been mentioned before.
2) can be downright ugly with a tall skinny adapter ballooning out to
a relatively massive stem. Of course once you're on the bike, this
On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 2:33 PM, Seth Vidal wrote:
>
> On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 3:30 PM, cm wrote:
>>
>> I agree. I came of age when good bikes came with threadless and
>> cheaper bikes came with a quill. I have come to love the look of a
>> quill stem, but more in the way I can appreciate a clas
On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 8:30 AM, Cycletex wrote:
>
> Would a pie plate be necessary to re-space from 130 to 135? I'm about
> to re-space a dura ace hub for a "go fast" I'm building.
Not unless you fail to adjust the inward travel screw correctly.
--
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
Professional R
On Sep 23, 9:04 am, JoelMatthews wrote:
> > The Hillborne-type frame is not just the upsloping top tube. By choosing a
> > specific angle of HT and ST, you can pretty effectively mimic larger frame
> > sizes without necessarily having to build a bigger frame. As you lengthen
> > the saddle and
Interesting, but way to small for so many people, the talest of those
frames is 585 mm long, like an Atlantis in 58, the SH is up to 620mm.
I'm 6' 4'' and the SH would fit me with a somewhat upsloping 130mm
stem, the BG - Impossible with a Rivish fit, bar on seat-height and so
on.
Gunnar.
PS I s
I've noticed that almost anytime someone mentions BG on a message
board he usually chimes in. Bruce, where are you?
That frame does look like a great deal. I was reading his blog and I
think it mentioned there that he'll have LX build kits and completes
soon for a very reasonable price. That fram
On Sep 23, 2:10 pm, gunnara wrote:
> Interesting, but way to small for so many people, the talest of those
> frames is 585 mm long, like an Atlantis in 58, the SH is up to 620mm.
> I'm 6' 4'' and the SH would fit me with a somewhat upsloping 130mm
> stem, the BG - Impossible with a Rivish fit,
I know there are 700c conversions on Bleriots, but I'm wondering if
anyone has seen or heard of a 26" (ISO 559) conversion? I can already
hear you all thinking, "what's the point?" Well, silly as it is I
just got a Stumpjumper Sport, and I tried one of the 650b wheels from
my Bleriot on it and,
On Wed, 2009-09-23 at 15:01 -0700, colin p. cummings wrote:
> I know there are 700c conversions on Bleriots, but I'm wondering if
> anyone has seen or heard of a 26" (ISO 559) conversion? I can already
> hear you all thinking, "what's the point?"
Really, the question is, "Have you got the reach
On Wed, 2009-09-23 at 14:58 -0700, bfd wrote:
>
>
> On Sep 23, 2:10 pm, gunnara wrote:
> > Interesting, but way to small for so many people, the talest of those
> > frames is 585 mm long, like an Atlantis in 58, the SH is up to 620mm.
> > I'm 6' 4'' and the SH would fit me with a somewhat upslo
> I've noticed that almost anytime someone mentions BG on a message
> board he usually chimes in. Bruce, where are you?
Yes, we definitely need to hear from Bruce. I think my Rock 'n Road
is what Bruce calls a 54. I am 5' 11". My Hilsen was a 59. My
Atlantis (I think early second gen) was a 5
Actually with the Dia Compe center pulls, I do have the reach, though
maxed out on that. And I've got the reach with my Tektro canti brakes
on the SJ.
On Sep 23, 5:07 pm, Steve Palincsar wrote:
> On Wed, 2009-09-23 at 15:01 -0700, colin p. cummings wrote:
> > I know there are 700c conversions o
To get back to the first point, I was one who could hardly wait for
the Hillborne. Was hoping for a bike that I could put drops on.
Since getting back into riding, was nearly impossible to do this and
still be comfortable. Combination of weight, hand issues, and pro
setups that "insisted" I keep
Hi all:
I have ridden my Grip Kings for a while and enjoy them. After about a
year of use, I wanted to re-pack them, but I faced difficulties trying
to remove the dust cover. I did not want to "chew up" the cover by
trying to pry it off with a small screw driver, knife, etc. I drilled
a very s
On Sep 23, 6:56 am, newenglandbike wrote:
> However, it
> seems to me that the upsloping top-tube should not actually add any
> versatility in terms of fit, because the numbers that matter in sizing
> a bike are not actually affected by it.
I ride a 52 cm Sammy and my case might be somewhat illu
Jim and Mark explored various options with me, including the red skull
stem I found online, home anodizing kits, local plating shops,
powdercoating, etc. We found a black quill adapter but it was super
heavy when it arrived, so we went with a chrome one and decided that
the Thomson stem would only
Howdy folks,
I'd like to take my Rambo along with me on trips, it looks like S&S
couplers are the way to go. Interested hearing from the group whose
gone through the retrofitting process i.e. coupler installers, paint
option chosen, decal replacement etc.
Many thanks in advance.
AJ
--~--~--
A local framebuilder known to many in the RBW group coupled my
Atlantis. I had it powdercoated black, no decals. I am glad I did it.
Note that S&S is picky about which framebuilders install their
couplers. If you call them, they will refer you to Bilenky, and only
Bilenky. But ask around, as your
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