Hello!
I did try a few searches for some discussion or an answer to this question
and came up empty...but I'm sure someone will provide a link with
everything I'm looking for!
But here's my question...if I have the Clipper wide/low double (42/26) with
a 9 speed cassette, am I "cross-chaining" a
Possible good news- silver shifters will go on those same thumb mounts on your
Clementine, no need to do any grip/handlebar messiness. An easy swap for what
you know and love.
-Kai
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I don’t know those shifters well enough, but I’d be inclined to go with
shifters that are meant for their job, and as I recall those weren’t.
The front derailler (or at least most) should be in the little ring position
naturally. Meaning you have to pull the cable to get it to leave that positi
Ya know, all that esplainy stuff I did last night makes no sense in light of
the fact you've been riding the Betz for years with no shifting issues. What
was I thinking??
Yes, Silver bar-ends are miles better than those ridiculous SunRace thumbies.
I'm thinking there's something wrong with the
The refusal to shift in front is so touchy that I have to be on pancake-flat
ground. Any threat of incline is a deal-breaker. I’ve been riding 6 years on
these same paths on my friction-shifting Betty Foy and rarely have an issue. I
don’t think it should be this touchy. I caught on pretty quick
Oops, I just realized that I was making a joking reference to a recent thread
that was on a DIFFERENT google group (iBOB). Boy, do I have egg on my face now.
Carry on, carry on..
> On Aug 13, 2019, at 09:31, esoterica etc wrote:
>
>
> Joe, I think a paude is what you do when you finally
Joe, I think a paude is what you do when you finally come to the realization of
what FFS means.
~Mark
> On Aug 13, 2019, at 03:31, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> *almost a pause. I have no idea what a paude is.
>
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*almost a pause. I have no idea what a paude is.
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The finicky stuff was the rear cuz those clicks did in fact act kinda indexy
and would sometimes leave you stuck slightly between gears. Which won't make a
lick of sense to you if you've always used friction, so we can yak later on the
PM about all that madness.
The front shouldn't be happenin
I remember that there was talk about the shifters of the early Clems, and now I
have a first gen Clementine and the shifting is giving me some issues. I took
my bike to the mechanic for a tune-up and told him the front cog was reluctant
to shift. He said the cable was a bit loose but he’d addres
This may be only a remote possibility, but I've experienced iffy shifting
and chain tracking when a single chain link was binding slightly.
As to Silver levers not staying adjusted: I use a dollop of Loctite on the
mounting/adjusting screw, and had no further problems with slipping. I do
like the
What rear derailleur are you using? I don't have an answer to your problem but
am curious because I have had similar issues with my new to me Atlantis. I've
now ridden it about 600 miles trying to get used to how it came to me.
Shifting, particularly on the large cogs in back was very finicky
I'm so used to 7-speed friction shifting on my Rambouillet that I seek rear
derailleurs with less lateral play of the upper pulley wheel, currently a
Suntour XC-Pro mid cage for that drivetrain. Others include other ST
road/MTB units and a gem of a Mavic 841. You can replace the top pulley
whee
Here's a question I didn't think of: Were you friction-shifting 8-speed before?
I've been fine with 9-speed after getting used to it, but 8 is definitely more
forgiving of having the pulleys slightly off center without catching an
adjacent cog. These modern (by Rivvy standards) 9-speed cassettes
No one has mentioned free movement of derailleur cable - just make sure it
is not snagging or dragging at all.
IanA
On Thursday, June 15, 2017 at 9:56:51 PM UTC-6, Tim O. (Portland, OR) wrote:
>
> Thanks, y'all! Sounds like I have some more fiddling to do. I'll report
> back with my results!
-
Thanks, y'all! Sounds like I have some more fiddling to do. I'll report back
with my results!
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I second the look at hanger alignment if the smaller three cogs' shifting
and operation is of "no leeway". You can buy a tool to gauge the alignment
and the cold set adjustment of it (steel frame preferred) for what it would
cost to have your LBS do it three or four times. If shifting is great
I know, but what he's describing as "almost no leeway" and "might need longer
spindle" sounds like the similar-sized 3 cogs outboard of the hub.
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I experienced the same issue. All things being, you could have a slightly bent
derailleur hanger. It's a cheap and quick fix at the bike shop. They have the
experience and appropriate tools, and would be grateful for the $15 they'll
charge.
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On 06/15/2017 02:48 AM, Joe Bernard wrote:
If by "lower gears" you mean the smaller cogs that are similar in size
but those would be "higher gears"
and the chain keeps catching on adjacent ones, then yes you might have an
8-speed chain. Hit the flashlight function on your phone and get a
If by "lower gears" you mean the smaller cogs that are similar in size and the
chain keeps catching on adjacent ones, then yes you might have an 8-speed
chain. Hit the flashlight function on your phone and get a good look at the
links, you should be able to find a model number with an 8 or 9 in
I just set up a new cassette, chain and chainrings, but now I'm having some
issues shifting in my lower gears. There is almost no leeway between my bottom
three gears so it's difficult(almost impossible) to line things up correctly
without the chain jumping around. For context, I'm running a 9 s
Thanks. I may have figured it out. The ist gear "click" on the lever is
somewhat elusive, and it takes a subtle touch to get the lever to click
into the 1st position and reach the detente. I think that the lever's
internals may be a bit worn. The hub itself seems to be fine.
If this latest adjust
You're sure you have the cable properly tensioned (e.g., no slack in 3rd gear)?
It sounds like the shift lever is rotated too far to get the hub into 1st gear,
and slips back into the "normal" 1st position.
Also, you're certain it's the correct shifter?
You could try putting a friction lever on
I can't get 1st gear to work on the hub. I can get 3d and 2nd to click into
place, but when I get the cable tight enough for 1st to click, when I
release the lever, the cable tension pulls the lever down away from the
"click position", loosening the cable and allowing the gear to skip.
Is this slo
Thanks for all the replies! Not sure which bars I'll end up with on the new
frame, but I know from experience that I need to test and experiment for a
fair time, so the bar-end off the quill may be doing duty for a while. And
this is well off into next year, as the frame is not yet designed, but
Hi
Got The Berthoud after riding with The original and The Mittermeyer. The
Berthoud is just wonderful in every aspect. It can easily be reamed to 26mm so
it fits on a noodles shim. http://wolff234.tumblr.com/image/82979201493
Best regards Gunnar
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I met someone on a 100k riding a Simpleone with the Berthoud setup, it was
gorgeous and he was happy with the functionality.
On Aug 24, 2014 10:24 PM, "BSWP" wrote:
> I'm purt near serious about making up a new frame with a Rohloff IGH.
> Looking at the myriad ways of mounting the shifter, I'm dr
Andrew,
I have a custom stem that has a clamp on the underside of the stem extension,
essentially like the Thorn 55mm accessory bar and the Rodriguez Doohickey. It
is a clamp brazed to the underside of the extension and is mtb bar diameter. I
have a scrap piece of mtb bar and the stock Rohloff
I'm purt near serious about making up a new frame with a Rohloff IGH.
Looking at the myriad ways of mounting the shifter, I'm drawn to putting it
on the quill stem, like shown here, #11, on someone's Atlantis:
http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2011/11/rohloff-hubs-with-drop-handlebars/
This see
On 11/16/2013 10:51 AM, Kellie Stapleton wrote:
So the SunRace thumb shifters Rivendell sells should be compatible?
Those are pure friction, right? If so, then maybe: some people are able
to successfully friction shift 10 speed drivetrains. Many others find
the spacing too close and have di
Hi Kellie, should be a fun bike set up. Any of the friction shifters
would work, but the Vaya has a 10 speed cassette. I've found that
friction shifting any more than eight gears isn't so much fun. If my
bike I would get 10 speed bar ends or Paul Thumbies.
On 11/16/13, Kellie Stapleton wrote:
> S
So the SunRace thumb shifters Rivendell sells should be compatible?
On Saturday, November 16, 2013 7:43:37 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 11/16/2013 10:39 AM, Kellie Stapleton wrote:
> > I have a Salsa Vaya which I'd like to make more Riv'ish as my daughter
> > plans to take it on a 2 m
On 11/16/2013 10:39 AM, Kellie Stapleton wrote:
I have a Salsa Vaya which I'd like to make more Riv'ish as my daughter
plans to take it on a 2 month tour and wants upright bars. Currently
is has drops with Sram Apex derailleurs and brifters. Can I convert to
thumb shifters with a new handlebar?
I have a Salsa Vaya which I'd like to make more Riv'ish as my daughter
plans to take it on a 2 month tour and wants upright bars. Currently is has
drops with Sram Apex derailleurs and brifters. Can I convert to thumb
shifters with a new handlebar? Of course I'd need new brake levers too.
--
Yo
Several hours of riding --- dirt? Possible
On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 11:40 AM, Jim M. wrote:
> On Saturday, July 27, 2013 10:31:17 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> #1: Dirty chain catching on bottom of the smaller (the proper term, ahem,
>> for us periti, is "chainring" or "ring", he said
Also, sometimes a new cable can slip out of some guides under the bottom
bracket. This too might cause a sudden slackness.
Michael
On Saturday, July 27, 2013 1:45:27 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> The only other thing I can think of is either cable stretch, which is
> normal on a new set
The only other thing I can think of is either cable stretch, which is
normal on a new setup,but usually takes more than a couple of rides, or a
little slip at the derailler. I'm not familiar with the thumb shifters but
would suggest putting each shifter - derailler in the loosest position and
I agree with Jim, when I get shifting issues the first thing I check is
cables, especially on a new bike. The cable could have half been in a
ferrule and bedded itself down or whatnot. Sounds like the front DR is
pushing the chain over which indicates you have a lack of tension on the
front DR.
O
On Saturday, July 27, 2013 10:31:17 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> #1: Dirty chain catching on bottom of the smaller (the proper term, ahem,
> for us periti, is "chainring" or "ring", he said snootily) so that the
> bottom run of the chain is brought up to, or sucked to, the top to lodge in
#1: Dirty chain catching on bottom of the smaller (the proper term, ahem,
for us periti, is "chainring" or "ring", he said snootily) so that the
bottom run of the chain is brought up to, or sucked to, the top to lodge in
the derailleur?
#2: You managed to loosen the front derailleur shift lever's
OK so I just got my new Hillborne this week. It is completely friction and
I am using the IRD thumbshifters with the Deore rear derailer and the CX
front derailer. It has a Sugino double crankset. On day one it worked
wonderful and the shifting with the IRD thumbshifters was great. I did a
I just put a Suntour Cyclone derailleur and a 9 speed cluster on my Gravel
Roadster, which had been a singlespeed.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/9089710197/
I'm trying to shift it with a Shimano 7 speed barcon, and I'm only getting
6 speeds out of it in friction. Is there a modi
This is probably not a big deal to many of you, but the shifting on my
Roadeo frameset is a lot better than my bikes with shorter chainstays. I
use a TA Zephyr 48-34 crank with a 12-25 cassette, with Campy Centaur
components. All the mechanical parts related to the drivetrain seem to last
much
Not to sound pedantic, but this might be a matter of using a FD that is
designed for use with triples vs. doubles. The angle of lift required
for triples is slightly steeper, the arc and length of the FD cage is
larger, and the range of motion is wider. Cage width vis a vis chain
width certai
I shifted a 9 sp chain over a 44/30 TA with an old Deore fd using Power
Ratchets and had no problems except for the somewhat slow upshift. (In fact,
I earlier ran a 26/46 with no problem except a very slow upshift.) I don't
recall throwing the chain, but then for the sake of best Q with adequate
ch
I have TA cranks on both my Saluki and Bleriot, and I use the FSA
Gossamer derailer on both. It works smoothly. I highly recommend it.
Bleriot setup is 42x26 for town and the local dirt. Saluki is a
wide-range double: 46x28 for loaded touring. I've also used the FSA/TA
setup with a 48x36, and the
Chris,
I've been using a TA Pro Vis w/ 33/47 rings and a Campy 9-speed Centaur front
derailleur for a long time with no shifting troubles. I could never get a
Shimano FD to work with the TA cranksets no matter what gears used.
The Campy 9-speed FD's have a good shape for moving the chain and the
Hi:
I've never gotten suitable shifting with a TA Pro 5 Vis crankset with
32/46 rings. This is mated with Shimano 9-speed on the rear (11x34)
and bar-end shifters (Shimano 9 also). First I had it set up with a
Suntour Superbe Pro front derailleur and it wanted to overshift once
every 25 to 50 shif
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