>From: intrepid...@juno.com
> But I like the pop-rivet better; and the local hardware store
> has a wide assortment of aluminum pop-rivets of many
> diameters and lengths. I'd avoid steel as it is harder to
> pull, will rust, etc.
>
> a r t
Art, these steel head pop rivets have a head
I remember seeing some time back the idea of using a drilled out machine
screw. Either way seems fine.
Norm
- Original Message -
From:
To:
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: KR>KR static system el cheapo
>
> Prior to seeing the pop-rivet approach, my
>I like the idea of this static port "type" system. Unfortunately, Aluminum
>and Wood expand and contract at very different rates, how would one properly
>mount the static port system mentioned, utilizing an aluminum rivets through
>wood?
>Larry A Capps
RE: how would one properly mount the static port system mentioned, utilizing
an aluminum rivets through wood?
Don't know for sure, but I ordered mine yesterday and I guess we will find
out. I rivet aluminum to plastic and wood all the time and have yet to see a
problem with it. This pop rivet wil
, cut a piece of thin
>alum. into a square of say, .5" as a backing plate.
>Dana Overall
+++
For builders with eyes like mine there is a . in front of that
5 for 1/2" , not 5" like I read the first two times and thought
"man, way over-ki
>From Dana's description
>it sounds like you "pull" the rivet but I wonder if you couldn't
>just epoxy the rivet in the wood skin with a small amount of
>epoxy on the exterior, under the head, and leave the shank intact.
>The hose connection on the inside would also tend to hold it in place
>if the
Where exactly would you make the holes to avoid any high pressure/low
pressure area?
Serge Vidal
KR2 ZS-WEC
Tunis, Tunisia
>From Dana's description
> >it sounds like you "pull" the rivet but I wonder if you couldn't
> >just epoxy the rivet in the wood skin with a small amount of
> >epoxy on the exterior, under the head, and leave the shank intact.
> >The hose connection on the inside would also tend to hold it in plac
The rivet called out, .42BS, only has a grip length of 1/8". Seems
you would want something longer, like a 46 (3/16" grip) or 48 (1/4" grip).
This size might work on 0.020" aluminum but it looks a little short for
3/32" plywood. I would insert the rivet after applying a little epoxy/flox,
n't drink at all, use a Pepsi or Coke label.
"This is a great day for France!" --President Richard Nixon while attending
Charles De Gaulle's funeral. Truer words were never spoken!
---Original Message---
From: KRnet
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sunday, J
>From: "Kenneth B. Jones"
>Reply-To: KRnet
>To: "KRnet"
>The rivet called out, .42BS, only has a grip length of 1/8". Seems
>you would want something longer, like a 46 (3/16" grip) or 48 (1/4" grip).
>
>Ken Jones
>Sharonville, OH
>
While I will agree with numerical identifications for
Prior to seeing the pop-rivet approach, my own plan
was to use a pair of #8-32 or #10-32 truss head phillips
machine screws. A tiny hole was to be bored down through
the head and shank of the bolt, and the threads would have
helped grip the tubing. Self-locking fiber nut and washers,
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