I remember seeing some time back the idea of using a drilled out machine
screw.  Either way seems fine.
Norm

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <intrepid...@juno.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: KR>KR static system el cheapo


>
>   Prior to seeing the pop-rivet approach, my own plan
>   was to use a pair of #8-32 or #10-32 truss head phillips
>   machine screws.  A tiny hole was to be bored down through
>   the head and shank of the bolt, and the threads would have
>   helped grip the tubing.   Self-locking fiber nut and washers,
>   of course, and length-to-suit.
>
>   But I like the pop-rivet better; and the local hardware store
>   has a wide assortment of aluminum pop-rivets of many
>   diameters and lengths.   I'd avoid steel as it is harder to
>   pull, will rust, etc.
>
>   a r t
>
>   Art Cacella   1970 American AA-1  N6155L  "Dinkie", flying
>                      2004 Sonerai-I, on gear w/engine, making wings
>                      2004 Moni-m/G, on gear, mounting engine, making
> wings
>                      2004 Polly, mini-RV-6, mounting engine & gear, all
> else done
>                      200? KR-1, bought the Plans in 1972, still unstarted
> <sigh>
>   Winston-Salem, NC
>
>
> On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 07:07:27 -0600 larry flesner <fles...@midwest.net>
> writes:
> > I suspect the total amount of expansion and contraction on a
> > part that small would not be a problem.  From Dana's description
> > it sounds like you "pull" the rivet but I wonder if you couldn't
> > just epoxy the rivet in the wood skin with a small amount of
> > epoxy on the exterior, under the head, and leave the shank intact.
> >
> > The hose connection on the inside would also tend to hold it in
> > place
> > if the rivet doesn't push out when installing the hose.
> >
> > Larry Flesner
> > Carterville, Illinois
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> >
> >
>
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