We used 2024t3 aluminium thickness is 1.6 . If you make an angle at the
lowerside you can use it as a stiffner and you can at the lower flange also
connect your min connections. The whole instrument pannel is that stif, that we
made good connection at the longaron side so we will remove one wood
Thank you guys, great ideas all. I like the idea of the aluminum panel and I
didn't think about the hassle of the foam being more of a detriment than
helping for all the now obvious reasons. Aluminum it is... I like the grounding
and stiffening suggestions and the fact that I already had the do
Hi Mark.
How thick was the aluminum you used on the panel?
I am now thinking of making mine from AL as well.
Thanks
Stan
On 2/12/2018 1:41 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet wrote:
Luis Claudio wrote:
I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of
aluminum or do a
Sid,
Is the aluminum bonded to the fibreglass or held in place by fasteners
(including those for the instruments)?
Cheers,
Tony
On 13 February 2018 at 04:28, Sid Wood via KRnet
wrote:
> I used the RR panel and forward deck for my KR-2. On the back face of the
> instrument panel is a aluminum
On 2/12/2018 10:22 AM, Luis Claudio via KRnet wrote:
I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of
aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam
Luis R Claudio
+
Sorry Guys, That last one was to go private- Joe Horton
- Original Message -
From: "n357cj"
To: "KRnet"
___
Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/.
Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.k
re.
J
- Original Message -
From: "KRnet"
To: "KRnet"
Cc: "Mark Langford"
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 2:16:17 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
I should've included a link to my first N56ML panel, which is at
http://www.n56ml.com/kpanel.html . I didn&
I should've included a link to my first N56ML panel, which is at
http://www.n56ml.com/kpanel.html . I didn't emphasize the utility of
the bottom shelf, but my next panel will probably have a 6" shelf on the
bottom for all that extra stuff. Really, 062" aluminum is thicker than
it needs to beI
I followed Marks panel and made it out of aluminum. I paid some hvac shop
20 bucks to put a two inch bend in the bottom. All of my wiring and ground
bus is installed on the shelf for an easy install. Two bolts on the side
through some wood blocks and two screws on the top hold it in. The two top
sc
Luis Claudio wrote:
> I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of
> aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam.
I think you'll find 1/4" plywood will be very heavy by comparison to
aluminum. It all adds up. N891JF has a seat back made of 1/4" plywood,
and I figure
I used the RR panel and forward deck for my KR-2. On the back face of the
instrument panel is a aluminum sheet 0.040 to strengthen the fiberglass and
make an electrical ground for all the instruments and radios. All holes for
instruments and screws are match-drilled through the fiberglass, alumi
AR
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 at 9:22 AM
Cc: "Luis Claudio"
Subject: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of
aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. Can I have your input on what you
did? I value greatly the i
"aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam"
Luis,
That sounds kind of familiar. Because of my lack of experience and tools for
working aluminum I decided to make mine out of 1/4" aircraft plywood. I then
put a layer of glass on both sides with a silk weave on the front. You could
probably do th
I used 1/4" plywood and put a brown laminate on it. I have a small shock
mounted Aluminum panel in the middle. The entire panel is removed with 8
screws. The panel with instruments shown weighs about 8 lbs. Not sure how that
compares to the other materials.
http://kr2seafury.com/7.html
Craig
I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of
aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. Can I have your input on what you
did? I value greatly the inputs and discussions on this forum and its great to
be able to be knocked back into reality by your comments and sug
Dave, generally Cat5 and automotive cable is insulated with PVC. PVC is
flammable, burns readily creating copious amounts of thick, toxic smoke
rendering it virtually impossible for pilots to see their flight instruments
or BREATHE.
I would strongly suggest you use aircraft quality wire (Tefzel)
On 12/2/2011 10:58 AM, Dave_A wrote:
> The reason I said 58U is that (From what I'd seen online) 58 U foam-core
> has some of the lowest attenuation of the 'common' cable types (1.7db,
> IIRC)
>
I don't disagree with you. I've used it with great results, as have
many people over the years.
On 12/2/2011 7:14 PM, Matt Elder wrote:
> On 12/2/2011 9:32 AM, Glenn Martin wrote:
>> Not RG-58. Too lossy. Use RG-8X instead.
> You say too lossy. At the frequencies we run at, what's the difference
> in attenuation?
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at htt
> They are available through the EAA.
> Larry Flesner
I looked up the author in question on Google Books, and his books are on
there, too...
Which is nice for someone like me, who is in a place that has no
reliable mail service.
On 12/2/2011 8:44 AM, Matt Elder wrote:
> On 12/2/2011 9:32 AM, Glenn Martin wrote:
>> Not RG-58. Too lossy. Use RG-8X instead.
> You say too lossy. At the frequencies we run at, what's the difference
> in attenuation?
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at htt
On 12/2/2011 9:32 AM, Glenn Martin wrote:
> Not RG-58. Too lossy. Use RG-8X instead.
You say too lossy. At the frequencies we run at, what's the difference
in attenuation?
On 12/2/2011 3:08 AM, Dave_A wrote:
> I'm assuming RG58/U for antenna wire...
>
> ___
>
Not RG-58. Too lossy. Use RG-8X instead.
--
Glenn Martin,
KR2 N1333A,
Biloxi, MS
On 12/2/2011 4:08 AM, Dave_A wrote:
> Is there any real advantage to teflon-coated aircraft wire over more
> common twisted-pair varieties?
Well, it won't make a highly poisonous gas when it burns... And it
doesn't like to/won't burn in air (read self-extinguishing). A good
thing if you have a
I second that. Also I think everyone should own a copy of Aeroelectric
Connection. Go to http://www.aeroelectric.com/ and buy the book.
There is a great deal of information on his site, but the book is priceless.
Matt
> +++
>
> When in
>
>
> I used Tefzel everywhere I could.
>Yes, there is a lot of 22ga wire used, to cut down on weight where heavier
>wire is not needed. When in doubt, I always used the heavier ga wire.
>Daniel R. Heath
+++
When in doubt, consult your To
Dave,
Seems like you know what you need to use. I used Tefzel everywhere I could.
Yes, there is a lot of 22ga wire used, to cut down on weight where heavier
wire is not needed. When in doubt, I always used the heavier ga wire.
See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics
See you
What do you guys use for your electrical wiring between instruments and
such?
Most of the photos I've seen show wire that's quite thin (makes sense
for weight savings) - on the order of phone-jack wire or Cat5
I'm assuming RG58/U for antenna wire...
Is there any issue with using Cat5 ether
As a KRnet list member recently reported: No more Panel Diving.
I cut my forward deck in two about 16 inches aft of the firewall. Now I
have wide-open access to the back of the panel, master cylinders, batteries,
wiring, etc. I can now fix the three wiring glitches standing flat-footed
on the
Keep the Smoke inside the wires. If it gets out, OOO,OOO, Virg
On 12/26/2010 7:45 PM, smwood wrote:
>
> Per Larry Flesner's advice, lots of wiring diagrams and notes for each
> instrument, radio and connector. Every end of every wire is documented and
> double checked. Expect first panel
Wiring the instrument panel on my KR-2 is almost done. The panel is a Rand
factory unit with panel and forward deck as one single piece. The panel and
forward deck is screwed in place and
removable as need be for annual condition inspection and possible future
mods. The GPS antenna is mounted
WOW Great Thanks to Jon Finley for the link to AeroElectric Connection...
This is definitely a KEEPER.
Joe. E. Wallace
jwallace...@gmail.com
On Oct 29, 2010, at 5:26 PM, Jon Finley wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I hope everyone is familiar with the AeroElectric Connection and Bob Nuckolls
>
fault that causes an emergency.
[http://www.aeroelectric.com] http://www.aeroelectric.com
Jon Finley
-Original Message-
From: "Larry&Sallie Flesner"
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 3:00pm
To: "KRnet"
Subject: Re: KR> Instrument Panel Wiring
At 08:37 AM 10/29/
At 08:37 AM 10/29/2010, you wrote:
>This wire goes from this terminal here to the
>terminal over there. I can do that. Ok, leave enough slack to make a
>bundle for support. Run the next wire along the length of the first wire.
>Next thing I realize, hey I'm wiring the panel.
>Sid Wood
++
I have started wiring on my KR-2 instrument panel. I have had some
experience on this sort of thing, but that was many years ago. Looking at
all the schematics for all the gadgets and switches with wires running every
which way was daunting to say the least. Truth be known, I found other
thi
Hi all,
I'm starting to build the instrument panel.
Of course, there are always questions that pops up, where the answer is
dependant on a lot of variables. I plan to build the panel from 3mm (might
be 2.8, I'm not sure) plywood, and I need to know what thickness is required
to ensure the panel
Mark Langford
*I read your 'e' about the type IV VW engines. Where you suggest I start
looking for them and are they a VW engine or a Porshe engine?*
And, what would you expect to pay for one?
Marty Martin
NetHeads,
The discussion on instrument panels is rather timely to me, as I just
designed a new one for my airplane. The main driver is the change from my
now defunct Terra TRT-250 to a more reliable Becker (fine German stuff) ATC
4401-175, which conveniently fits into a standard 2.25" intrumen
Last night I wrote that the Motion Computing LS-800 was daylight readable.
After seeing one in person in my cockpit today, I'd have to say that's
debatable, and this is the "view anywhere" version. The guy's I borrowed
uses it in his wide open Swift, and says "it works for me". In direct sun
or s
At 01:35 PM 9/16/2006, you wrote:
>In direct sun
>or shaded from direct sun it is visible, but not as visible as I'd hoped.
>Still, it fits my panel perfectly, so I may go for it anyway.
+++
Sounds like you may want to include a sun shade along with
-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of Mark Langford
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 12:36 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> instrument panel
Last night I wrote that the Motion Computing LS-800 was daylight readable.
After seeing one in person in my cockpit today, I'd have to say that's
deba
The $2700 for the LS-800 was from here:
http://www.aviationsafety.com/ls_800.htm
-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of Kevin Angus
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 5:05 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: RE: KR> instrument pa
At 04:21 PM 5/24/2006, you wrote:
>Progress is slow.I don't have any pictures of the instrument panel,because I
>don't have it together yet.
>Bob Glidden
+
Bob,
I built my panel using 12 layers of KR cloth and finished with a
layer of de
Instrument panel made of .063 aluminum and holes cut with hole saws.
http://krbuilder.org/Electrical/index.html
A couple of pics from the top.
I made the one on my first KR out of luan plywood covered with a couple of
layers of glass.
See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on t
5/05/2006 01:40
Pour :
cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : KR> instrument panel
Instrument panel made of .063 aluminum and holes cut with hole saws.
http://krbuilder.org/Electrical/index.html
A couple of pics from the top.
I made the one on my first KR
At 03:18 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>If it was to be done again, I would put the panel on shock absorbers.
>Serge Vidal
++
I shock mounted my panel with some very simple (read cheap)
shock mounts. See
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/flesner/bra
3$ pice of birch ply from Home Depot. Instrument hole cut with hole saw -
tint to look like mahogany/rosewood. 4 Coats of clearcheap and easy -
looks good. Check it out on N41768...Bill
KRnetHeads,
OK, I've gotta gloat here. Check this out...
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/040607136m.jpg or
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kpanel.html#update if you want to read a
couple of paragraphs about it. There are some wires that need to be tied
off and clamped in place, but the panel
I had seen the use of label machines in labeling instrument panels before
but got my first taste of it yesterday. I bought this at Office Max (or
Office Depot, heck I can't ever remember which one it is we have in town:-)
at a whole whoppin $19 yesterday.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/label.jpg
erge Vidal
KR2 ZS-WEC
-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Dana Overall
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 12:36
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR>Instrument panel labeling
I had seen the use of label machines in labeling inst
>I had seen the use of label machines in labeling instrument panels before
>but got my first taste of it yesterday. I bought this at Office Max (or
>Office Depot, heck I can't ever remember which one it is we have in town:-)
>at a whole whoppin $19 yesterday.
>http://rvflying.tripod.com/label.j
I use a brother p-touch for all my of my labeling needs and I can tell you
this. Once they have been in place for about a month, they do not like to
come off. I got over zealous labeling a rack that I had a bunch of switches
and patch panels in that was made of aluminum. Later decided to change som
In a message dated 1/29/04 7:31:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jwald...@guarantybankva.com writes:
> I got over zealous labeling a rack that I had a bunch of switches
> and patch panels in that was made of aluminum. Later decided to change some
> things and I had a bear of a time getting them to pe
In a message R.S. Hoover writes:
Try a heat gun.
I eventually did. I was just making the point that it takes a lot for them
to peel off.
J. Waldron
jwald...@guarantybankva.com
Larry wrote:
>The brand name "Electro-Tag comes to
> mind but I'm not sure
Larry, KRnet, et al:
It's a "Dymo Letra Tag". I have one I use for filing etc around the house.
Works great.
ps. I finished my airfoil conversion by securing the aft spar back in place
over the weekend. I think I have
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