I've used one of the Ford Ranger EV DC/DC converters. They are also 100 amp
capable and are water cooled. I happen to have a copy of the relevant
documentation and a brand new DC/DC in the original box.
regards,
Paul Wallace
___
Address messages to ev
On 10/13/2024 7:44 PM, Alan Arrison via EV wrote:
What are guys using for DC/DC in a high voltage (300-400V) build.
I've been using a Ford Transit DC-DC. Up to 100A at 12v.
___
Address messages to ev@lists.evdl.org
No other addresses in TO and CC
I’ll take it
Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail for iPhone
On Saturday, November 13, 2021, 9:53 PM, nathan christiansn via EV
wrote:
Hi everyone,
I have an Elcon DC/DC converter for sale. The label says is is good to 30
amps on the output, but I have never seen more than 8 amps come out of it,
so I
what voltage in?
What voltage out?
On Sat, Nov 13, 2021 at 10:53 PM nathan christiansn via EV
wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I have an Elcon DC/DC converter for sale. The label says is is good to 30
> amps on the output, but I have never seen more than 8 amps come out of it,
> so I am selling it as-
Azure / Ford DC/DC Converter
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Azure / Ford DC/DC Converter
I have two of the DC/DC converters from the AZD bankruptcy sale. These were
used in the Transit Connect Electric...
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On Monday, February 15, 2021, 10:24:38 PM CST, John Lussmyer via EV
THe one or two that I tested on lowvoltage input seemed to work OK. They
are so cheap that it doesnt hurt to try.
bob
On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 10:26 PM Lee Hart via EV wrote:
> Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
> > FWIW, I have a 72 volt UPS for some house backup power, but there are no
> y tr> chea
I tested over a dozen various AC/DC power supplies lying around the lab and
found that all of them worked on DC (except for one, and it began tgo work
when I flipped the AC line cord over.
On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 10:26 PM Lee Hart via EV wrote:
> Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
> > FWIW, I have a
On 02/13/2021 12:24, Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
FWIW, I have a 72 volt UPS for some house backup power, but there are no
cheap 72 volt solar chargers. So I plan on hooking up three DC/DC float
power supplies set to 13.8 volts, one across each of the three 12v
batteries.
If it's a 72 volt U
Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
FWIW, I have a 72 volt UPS for some house backup power, but there are no
cheap 72 volt solar chargers. So I plan on hooking up three DC/DC float
power supplies set to 13.8 volts, one across each of the three 12v
batteries. Their inputs will all be connected to thr
> From: Steves
>
> Of course I found a few other goodies I ?needed? on the Goldmine site
HA!
Of course, you MUST sign up for their newsletter, to see their special sales
every week!
I got a dozen or so 5W solar USB chargers for $9 each, blister-packed and with
a lithium USB power cell, t
FWIW, I have a 72 volt UPS for some house backup power, but there are no
cheap 72 volt solar chargers. So I plan on hooking up three DC/DC float
power supplies set to 13.8 volts, one across each of the three 12v
batteries. Their inputs will all be connected to three solar panels in
series (90 to
I checked out the info video on the Iota and they can be attached in series or
parallel. And the ‘smart module’ does make it a 4 stage charger and is only
$20.
Worth trying out. Of course I found a few other goodies I ‘needed’ on the
Goldmine site
-Steve
> On Feb 12, 2021, at 7:37 PM, Le
Mr. Sharkey via EV wrote:
I'm thinking 3 of these on my ElecTrak 36v pack
While it's not a strict apples-to-apples comparison, I use a 45 amp Todd
"Power Source" switching power supply as the on-board charger on my E20
ET. The three 15 amp internal modules were changed from parallel to
serie
> I'm thinking 3 of these on my ElecTrak 36v pack
While it's not a strict apples-to-apples comparison, I use a 45 amp
Todd "Power Source" switching power supply as the on-board charger on
my E20 ET. The three 15 amp internal modules were changed from
parallel to series connection. No problems
> From: Steves
>
> Do you know if these can be used on a series string? I?m thinking 3 of these
> on my ElecTrak 36v pack.
As a simple test, I put just two of them in series, and no magic smoke was
released. I didn't attempt to load them, though.
But the $22.95 price is for ONE ONLY!
I got e
This is quantity ONE!
If you put "2" in the quantity field, the per-unit price goes up to $500! So
they REALLY mean "ONE ONLY!"
I have six of them that I bought during prior sales. I was hoping to have
twelve of them, to charge my 144V string of NiCds. All six look essentially
unused. I suspec
Steves via EV wrote:
Hey Lee,
Do you know if these can be used on a series string? I’m thinking 3 of these on
my ElecTrak 36v pack.
The 12v output is isolated from the AC line, and not connected to
ground. So it appears that you could use 3 of them to charge 3 12v
batteries in series.
How
Thanks Lee, those are good units!
For those wanting to use them as DC-DC, I hereby regurgitate this:
http://www.evdl.org/pages/iotamods.html
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 12:01 PM Steves via EV wrote:
> Hey Lee,
>
> Do you know if these can be used on a series string? I’m thinking 3 of
> these on my
Hey Lee,
Do you know if these can be used on a series string? I’m thinking 3 of these on
my ElecTrak 36v pack.
-Steve
> On Feb 12, 2021, at 2:31 PM, Lee Hart via EV wrote:
>
> For those hardy hackers still out there building/converting their own EVs,
> Electronic Goldmine is selling the IO
Lee Hart via EV wrote:
But if you're determined to proceed, I think the modifications were
written up and are in the EVDL "files" section somewhere.
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
http://evdl.org/pages/iotamods.html
That's it! Thanks, David. :-)
Another approach that will probably provo
Many devices are 88 to 264V, that will just work.
-Original Message-
From: EV On Behalf Of paul dove via EV
Sent: Friday, 28 August 2020 6:30 am
To: ev@lists.evdl.org
Cc: paul dove ; David Delman
Subject: Re: [EVDL] DC - DC Iota DLS-55/IQ4
The DLS-55 is designed to run off of 120V
> tap your battery at the DC:DC's nominal voltage
nonononono, don't ever do this
I thought I would save some bother and tapped five of my 18 T-105's
(yeah, lead, I know, but) to run the E-Meter on my car. My attitude
was "how bad could it be?"
Very bad. The brand new battery pack failed
On 27 Aug 2020 at 14:11, Lee Hart via EV wrote:
> But if you're determined to proceed, I think the modifications were
> written up and are in the EVDL "files" section somewhere.
>
http://evdl.org/pages/iotamods.html
Another approach that will probably provoke some controversy here is to tap
y
paul dove via EV wrote:
The DLS-55 is designed to run off of 120V AC...
Thus you need an ~170VDC source to equal the rectified 120VAC voltage.
202VDC would be too much and most likely blow something
I agree. I've reverse-engineered some of the Iota DLS-supplies, and all
of them had a simple br
The DLS-55 is designed to run off of 120V AC.
The standard U.S. AC outlet voltage is 120VAC rms +-10%
The peak voltage is Vrms x sqrt 2 = Vrms x 1.414.
120Vrms = 170Vpeak
240Vrms = 340Vpeak
Many devices that use AC wall power have a simple bridge rectifier or bridge
doubler at the input.
The b
One is from an EV but the other came with our RV as a 12vdc charger.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, I'll give it a shot.
On Mon, Aug 27, 2018 at 1:37 PM Lee Hart via EV wrote:
> From: Gary Krysztopik via EV
> >I have two of these (not working) for free if anyone wants to fix the
What is shipping to Jericho, NY 11753?
Thank you,
Dave Delman
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 12:45:47 -0700
From: Gary Krysztopik
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Cc: b...@freetimefinance.com.au
Subject: Re: [EVDL] DC-DC
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="
From: Gary Krysztopik via EV
>I have two of these (not working) for free if anyone wants to fix them.
>You pay shipping from Oregon.
I can fix them, but am not sure it's worth the effort. I've fixed a few of
them. The "how-to" is in the EVDL "files" section.
The repairs don't last. You fix one
I have two of these (not working) for free if anyone wants to fix them.
You pay shipping from Oregon.
On Sun, Aug 26, 2018 at 10:33 PM Robert Elton via EV
wrote:
> Hi Folks, has anyone modified the DLS-55 (build date April 2015) or later
> to
> accept a DC input? I bought one to replace a 2009 m
From: Robert Elton via EV
>Hi Folks, has anyone modified the DLS-55 (build date April 2015) or later to
>accept a DC input? I bought one to replace a 2009 model but IOTA Engineering
>say it can't work with DC input. It does deliver a 14V output but drops
>voltage the moment you put load on it. The
On Fri Apr 27 18:13:35 PDT 2018 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>Could be a bad connection (or cell) in the pack, or pack wiring.
>Voltage drops feeding the DC-DC and the output cuts back.
>High load = big currents = big voltage drop on bad connections or weak
>cell(s)
As I said, it turns out that the out
Could be a bad connection (or cell) in the pack, or pack wiring.
Voltage drops feeding the DC-DC and the output cuts back.
High load = big currents = big voltage drop on bad connections or weak
cell(s)
Bill D.
On 4/28/2018 12:32 PM, John Lussmyer via EV wrote:
On Fri Apr 27 16:22:07 PDT 20
List; Jan Steinman
Subject: Re: [EVDL] DC-DC Cooling
On Tue Oct 07 19:05:39 PDT 2014 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>> From: John Lussmyer via EV
>>
>> ... when I'm running 40A continuous load...
>
>Wow, what the heck are you running? That seems like a very high load, even
On Wed, Oct 8, 2014 at 12:53 AM, John Lussmyer via EV
wrote:
> On Tue Oct 07 21:33:02 PDT 2014 j...@ecoreality.org said:
> >I agree with others that the parallel Vicor modules may be fighting with
> each other. Are they adjustable? If so, you could sum them via a Schottky
> isolator, but it will
On Tue Oct 07 21:33:02 PDT 2014 j...@ecoreality.org said:
>Don't suppose you could run your brakes and steering from mechanical pumps
>coupled to your drive motor? That would be more efficient, and save you a bit
>of range. That's what I plan to do in the conversion I'm working on.
Somehow, I do
On Tue Oct 07 21:36:58 PDT 2014 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>Ah, I think you pointed out the issue: the brake vacuum pump.
With all the other stuff on, I'm running around 40A without touching the brakes.
The car battery can handle the surge current for the brake pump.
I will be checking the DC-DC tem
On 10/7/14, 9:02 PM, John Lussmyer via EV wrote:
On Tue Oct 07 19:05:39 PDT 2014 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
From: John Lussmyer via EV
... when I'm running 40A continuous load...
Wow, what the heck are you running? That seems like a very high load, even with
lights on.
Are you using 12V resist
Wow. I had no idea.
Don't suppose you could run your brakes and steering from mechanical pumps
coupled to your drive motor? That would be more efficient, and save you a bit
of range. That's what I plan to do in the conversion I'm working on.
I agree with others that the parallel Vicor modules m
On Tue Oct 07 19:05:39 PDT 2014 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>> From: John Lussmyer via EV
>>
>> ... when I'm running 40A continuous load...
>
>Wow, what the heck are you running? That seems like a very high load, even
>with lights on.
>
>Are you using 12V resistance heating?
No
Note this is a F250 t
> From: John Lussmyer via EV
>
> ... when I'm running 40A continuous load...
Wow, what the heck are you running? That seems like a very high load, even with
lights on.
Are you using 12V resistance heating?
Perhaps you would be better off looking at load shedding than providing more
cooling t
On 6 Oct 2014 at 16:21, John Lussmyer via EV wrote:
> The fan on the heatsink doesn't seem to be enough when I'm
> drawing a lot of 12V power. (blower, lights, brakes, etc..)
I'm not an engineer, but I think one of the problems with using multiple
DC:DC converters is balancing the load. You mig
On Mon, Oct 6, 2014 at 7:21 PM, John Lussmyer via EV
wrote:
> I think I'm going to have to figure out how to water cool my DC-DC.
> I built this one using 4 Vicor 20A bricks to get a 80A capable unit.
> It all fits on the back of a 6" square 2" thick heatsink with a 6" fan on
> it.
> I'm noticing
Have you measured the temp on any of the units? It is possible that one
of the bricks is not behaving. Failing that, you might want to redo the
heatsink with some serious extruded aluminum.
Cheers!
On 10/6/14, 4:21 PM, John Lussmyer via EV wrote:
I think I'm going to have to figure out how
From: Al
> It does sound like the PC680 shorted internally.
> How much voltage does the Iota put out?
> If it's below 14V then it shouldn't normally cause a meltdown.
14 volts is OK for the short term (hours), but not for the long term (days).
13.8v is the most you can apply on a continuous basi
It does sound like the PC680 shorted internally.
How much voltage does the Iota put out?
If it's below 14V then it shouldn't normally cause a meltdown.
Al
The problem: Discovered the 12volt house battery melting down after two
hours of the dc-dc being engaged (vehicle on charge) The battery
More than likely, the old battery developed a shorted cell, so it was a
10V battery (5 cells) instead of 12V. That would explain some things no
longer working or being much dimmer.
The high current from the Iota will then over-charge the 10V battery,
causing all the good cells to heat up and cook a
Hi Tom,
Here's my review on several options:
http://www.corbinstreehouse.com/blog/2011/04/plug-bug-dc-dc-converters/
Short answer: get the Belktronix.
corbin
On Apr 16, 2013, at 3:05 PM, Tom Hudson wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> A friend is upgrading his Solectria Force and going with a higher pack
>
FWIW, I ran LeSled on a single Vicor DC/DC for awhile. My house battery
was small, and the combination was far from ideal. My Zilla frequently
threw "low 12V" codes. IMHO, a single Vicor brick is insufficient unless
your house battery is capable of carrying the whole load for a whole charge
all
On 4/18/2013 11:19 AM, Tom Hudson wrote:
He's going to 56 CALB lithium-ion modules and the top-end voltage under
charge is ~190 but regen voltage could be a bit higher (though he could
reprogram his controller to limit that). His current DC-DC is a stock
Solectria unit (probably has a Vicor brick
He's going to 56 CALB lithium-ion modules and the top-end voltage under charge is ~190 but
regen voltage could be a bit higher (though he could reprogram his controller to limit
that). His current DC-DC is a stock Solectria unit (probably has a Vicor brick in it). If
it can take up to 200V, then
I have been happy with the Elcon DC-DC converter. They come in two models
with a pretty wide voltage range, but Its output isn't as high as you
mentioned. Mine is 360W output. That is enough for an older car with a
radio, lights, vacuum pump for brakes, power windows once in a while, and
not muc
On 4/16/2013 5:05 PM, Tom Hudson wrote:
A friend is upgrading his Solectria Force and going with a higher pack
voltage than his existing DC-DC converter is rated for. I know the Vicor
company makes DC-DC converter bricks, but was wondering if someone knows
of another good option for a DC-DC conve
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