Similarly, I have one ~ 8" by 5 feet by 1 " backed by 2 fenders at either the widest beam of the boat or where the nearest fixed object is when in the slip.
I found an unused, white (painted) plywood shelf in the garage, drilled holes in the appropriate top corners for the lines and hang it from
I strongly support what Bill and Andy said about a possible different prop.
One other important consideration for a two bladed prop is the amount of space
between the prop tip and the hull. Most 2 bladed props will be larger in
diameter
than a 3 blade to make up for the lack of surface area in
By 1993, (when I ordered my 36 XL/kcb), the standard fuel tank on this
racer/cruiser was 48 gallons and there were 2 approximately 40 gallon water
tanks under the settees. I added another water tank under the V-berth as an
option of about 60 gallons. Of course, with all this tankage, there is l
Hello all;
My boat is set up with the common 30A plug/cord and this works for almost all
the local marinas.
However, occasionally I need to go into a slip that has only a 50A service.
Sometimes the marina can
supply a 'pigtail' that goes from the 50A plug to 2-30 A female plugs so I can
use
A couple of 5 gallon cans of water suspended from the end of a
whisker/spinnaker pole might be enough to give you the heel you need (if you
are rigged for either).
This could easily be tested before you leave the dock.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-Origina
Had a yard do my almost all meydeck with Kiwi this spring--looks great and the
grip was enhanced forward of the mast for spinnaker work,eased somewhat aft for
sitting, by the rolling technique.
Yard guys had not worked with it before but liked it--plus it will go over
whatever is there now wit
Lots of good advice from many with lots of experience and knowledge. Under the
conditions you describe, it is probably fair to say that every time you dock
you will find very different conditions between wind and current.
IMHO the simple solution is (1) LOTS of practice in open water so you can
If you really want to use wood, and can find it, live oak is probably the best
wood for strength. It was highly sought after for knees, etc. of the wooden
sailing ships of the 1700-1800s.
Live oak was widely used in early American butt shipbuilding. Because of the
trees' short height and low
The USS Constitution was built with pine and oak, including "live oak". Her 21
inch thick wooden hull helped her defeat 5 British ships in the War of 1812!
The name Constitution was selected by President George Washington.[14] Her keel
was laid down on 1 November 1794 at Edmund Hartt's shi
Can someone please enlighten the dim-witted/not in-the-know/clueless/etc. list
members WTH it the BOR?
Charlie Nelson
36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR
To: cnc-list
Sent: Thu, Aug 8, 2013 1:13 pm
Subject: Re: Stus
I agree that it definitely needs investigated.
OTOH, the crack may be in the overlaying fiberglass/gelcoat/paint, assuming
there is some on your keel--can't see from the picture.
The leading edge of my centerboard trunk is covered with glass/paint and it has
been removed several times to get
Suggest a geared 2-blade so that the blades move together whether so that when
folded, they both fold.
I changed to a folder 2 years ago and ended up with a Gori racing prop since
its resistance to flow when sailing
was basically indistinguishable from the resistance of the hull alone. They
ha
My crew has convinced me that I need to replace my regular sheets and
halyards--some have been spliced/end for ended, etc. and its been probably 5+
years that they have been in use. For convenience, I like to use the same line
and color for my jib and main halyards and the jib sheets. The main s
My 1995 36 XL/kcb has a 'sky liner' also--and it has a few leaks or at least
the water gets around it into the companionway/cabin.
AFAIK, it looks like I need to remove the entire hatch cover 'cover'/'surround'
to be able to remove and re bed/clean-up/replace this 'smoked' Lexan/acrylic
sheet.
In his second year of sailing!! yikes, I'd be more concerned about his
capabilities offshore than whether the boat has the capabilities.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Brent Driedger
To: C&C List Canada
Sent: Fri, Aug 30, 2013
I am trying to locate drawings that give details on the keel/centerboard
dimensions for my 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb.
So far the Kingston Maritime Museum has not been able to find any and neither
does South Shore Yachts.
If someone on the list has them for this model or the centerboard
trunk/center
I have mine done before every race (about every 2 weeks) in the Neuse River in
North Carolina.
On a contract for regular cleaning, I am charged $1.50 per minute of dive +
prep time or about $40 each time.
Charlie Nelson
1995 C&C 36XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From:
I have thought about chartering a local boat for BIRW (hopefully a C&C!). Will
see what my crew thinks--time permitting I could bring Water Phantom up 'north'
from North Carolina but
that's a '..fur piece..." to move her.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
Oriental/New Bern, NC
cenel.
I recently changed my mainsheet purchase to this arrangement with my traveller located just in front of the binnacle spanning the seats.
Originally the factory had a 6:1 coarse on the sheet with a an 8:1 'doubler' within the boom which I now use for the outhaul.
Charlie Nelson
Water
My 1995 36 XL also has standing headroom for 6' 2" within the main and forward
cabins at least.
Charlie Nelson
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike
To: cnc-list
Sent: Fri, Oct 4, 2013 10:05 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Standing height in C & C 40 1979
My father at
Some instrument systems will give you VMG to windward via the wind
direction/speed and boat heading/speed from the knotmeter. For a true W-L
course, VMG can then be used both upwind and down. IMHO this parameter is more
important than any other 'velocity'. Of course one must still keep their he
I second Dennis's optimum inventory--especially for the mostly light air NC
sounds:
~2-6 true, light #1, light air main
~ 6-15 true, AP #1, AP main
~15-20 true, AP#1, reefed AP main
~20-30, blade/#3, reefed AP main
> 30, stay at dock!
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
Neuse River,
I installed a Garmin 4 display system with their transducers (wind, speed and
depth) last winter and it has worked well. It is hooked up to a Garman Chart
Plotter (542?) which serves as one end of the
backbone (and power source). Of course the hull transducers were not the same
as my previous
Type: Gin (usually Tanqueray), bourbon (Wild Turkey), rum (crew dependent but
usually large quantities of bottom shelf stuff!) and (it goes without saying)
beer.
When: Nothing before races, only food and 1 beer between races and, subject to
travel involved, the 'hard stuff' (from 1 or 2 drin
I am a little surprised that the cb model has the same PHRF as non-cb. At least
with my 90s era keel/cb vs the fin keel, we rate a higher. Further, in a
reasonable breeze (>6-8 knots), we point with
all the go fast boats with the board down and good sails.
Downwind, we hold our own in such bre
My centerboard is similar if not identical to those on the 37s--I can't prove
it but I think its design was copied from the 37s--I don't think an entire new
trunk/board was designed for the
34/36 of which mine is hull #77.
That said, be sure that the entire cable is inspected during your haul o
I am sure this has been discussed before, when I wasn't paying attention!
I need recommendations for an ipad/phone app for route planning at home. My
Garmin 540 works fine on the boat but
I'd like to plan a route in my family room for an upcoming trip to Ocracoke
from Oriental NC.
The distance
Thanks to all for the advice about route planning. It turns out that I had a
copy of Mapsource that had been used for a Caribbean trip several years ago.
Your comments started me on
a search for it.
If I understand the listers correctly, I should be able to use it for route
planning on my comp
Thanks Mark--it may reduce the number of trips I need to make to the device on
the boat.
Per your email, it appears that I should put a blank SD card into my 540 so
that Garmin can initialize it before I load the routes, etc. on the card
via my computer with MapSource.
After that, I put the S
No attachment--I was referring to the string of emails regarding these gas
cylinders.
I like them but they need to be sized correctly so that the cylinder maximum
and minimum extent work in the space available
and that the cylinder has the power to hold up the corresponding chart table,
lazar
My Lifeline deep cycle size 31 battery has died after +7 years of use as a
starting battery.
I do not cruise, except occasional (mostly motor) trips to different local (<
25 miles) racing venues. Thus I only carry one
battery in the interests of both weight and use.
Since it died the morning
No plans for offshore racing at present but I get the point; also another 60
lbs is 'chump change' considering my 13,600 lbs displacement.
Thanks for all the suggestions--plus my Lifeline AGM measured 11.17 volts this
AM (off the boat). Could this mean that it is not really dead?
Charlie Nel
All this talk of spinnaker handling has me wondering.
Do most of you use end for end spin pole handling for jibing or dip pole? If
dip pole, do you use 2 sets of lines?
We are trying to get the foredeck dance down with dip pole jibes since it
should be easier on the foredeck crew, especially
NC-PHRF also gives a single rating and assumes a 155% headsail and a spinnaker
is used of standard size. However, practically all races have both spinnaker
and non-spinnaker
classes so there is no 'mixing' of the fleets.
When an overall race/regatta winner is required/desired or a distance rac
I had it done to mine, in a color to match the hull, for about $250 plus
shipping 4-5l years ago. Still looks like new--virtually indestructable IMHO in
the NC sun (no cover).
Not as traditional as the leather but a lot easier on me!
?
Also the local UPS store let me ship it without having it wr
My crew has, with some practice, learned how to fold my main once and roll it
up to be tied to the boom when at the dock.
Saves some wear and tear on the sail and is probably about as fast as flaking
it. It takes at least 3 to do this well.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
Greenvill
When my old (15 year with one rebuild) MaxProp was replaced last spring, I went
with a Gori 2 blade racing prop which was discounted
at the time I bought it. My research showed that it had barely measurable drag.
After various discussions with Geoff of AB Marine, I got a 16 x 11 (I think)
for
I am considering replacing my 17 year old lifelines (wire with white plastic
cover) this year.
I like the idea of bare SS wire (long lifetime) although the hassle of the
fittings, swaging, etc. is not appealing.
OTOH, high tech line is begining to be used which eliminates the fittings,
swagin
As a PHRF racer, I realize that assigning a single rating for a boat sailing in
various conditions of wind, waves, etc. is a very poor substitute for a more
complicated and more expensive solution such as IRC, etc. etc.
Adding modifications to this single number to account for sail configuratio
1) This looks like you would use the broken pin to hold the board up--if so, a
little risky IMHO.
3) This could be a lot of lead grinding/dust/hazardous.
4) Good luck with this!!
2) Have had my yard do this when I lost my board a few years ago--not a big
deal to grind away fiberglass to pin,
Good analysis from all IMHO. Several other points might be made:
1. Blue was coming down the line, mostly parallel to it, on a beam or close
reach at high speed--barging. While not against the rules, it is a risky
maneuver in any fleet
and the barger has very few 'rights' in any close encounter
I changed out my mast and boom sheaves after 16 years because they were worn
out from use and sun exposure, cracked, chipped, etc.
Certainly at the mast head, these plastic sheaves take a lot of sun exposure,
at least in NC.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-
Whisper, a C&C 38/kcb, has raced well at Charleston Race Week for several
years. The owner is/was from near Jacksonville, Fl.
I met him and his crew a few years ago there. Perhaps he could be reached via
the CRW web page.
Might be worth contacting him--I spoke with him about 5 years ago but h
Water Phantom raced non-spinnaker this past weekend in the Hancock Yacht Club
Regatta held in the Neuse River off the Marine Air Station Cherry Point.
Usually I go spinnaker, but the competition was better in non-spin with 4
others while the spin fleet only had 2. Since I would rather compete
I may be a little generous but as skipper I usually provide lunch sandwiches,
drinks (water and Gatorade while racing, beer and liquor after racing is over)
and snacks.
If there is a dinner or party afterward where meal tickets are involved, I buy
tickets for the crew expected on board usually
Or support your local canvas maker and have one made to match your boat colors
for ~ 1 boat buck (or less).
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: HONEYSAIL
To: cnc-list
Sent: Mon, Aug 6, 2012
I got badly burned fingers once with half-fingered gloves.
While I should have released the line before I saw my fingers 'smoking', it
happened too fast for me to let go quickly enough.
I had to retreat below for several hours nursing my blistered inside fingers on
my hand with ice, ointment,
And if the bolt doesn't get you or your boat directly, anything that has a few
coils of wire in it near such a large discharge of current, will have a very
large electromagnetic pulse generated in it which will likely destroy it and
anything that it is in the same circuit.
We had a lightening
I second this regarding 1) what you are looking for and 2) considering a new
prop.
I re-propped this spring after my 15 year old 3 blade feathering Max-Prop was
facing its second rebuild. Since I was interested in absolutely minimum drag
for my club-racing C&C 36 XL/kcb, I investigated this pr
The proposed solutions will probably do the trick. However, having suffered the
same problem with my jabasco unit, now + 15 years old with several rebuilds,
I bought the jabasco kit with a new 'locking' pump assembly.
With it is in the locked position, where it stays unless used, no water can
I am In the process of replacing my instrument set which is housed in a NavPod
1x4 above the companionway mounted to a stainless steel
U-shaped pipe bolted to a cross member of the hatch cover assembly.
With some work, I managed to cut a 7/8" hole in this pipe and another in the
binnacle guard
I may have it wrong but from the diagrams on the site, it looks like one drills
a hole in the deck (or uses one already there), puts the cable thru all the
cable clam pieces and then tightens the screws provided.
This looks like it both compresses and seals the rubber gasket around the cable
an
I may not have been clear regarding the original problem.
In fact, I am replacing the current wires in the hole with new ones from the
new, networked instruments. Thus if the cable clam works and fits where I need
it, it should solve my problem.
Thanks again for the info about these.
Charlie
Looks like it would do the trick but unfortunately, my Garmin wire has network
connectors attached which would need to either go thru the piece or be cut and
redone.
The cable clam appears to allow a connector thru and still be able to tighten
onto the cable.
Thanks,
Charlie Nelson
Water Pha
Hey listers;
?
My primary winches (Lewmar 48-52 (?), grey color, not chrome) have lost most of
their initial roughness so that now it
takes more turns than it should for the line to not slip. Given that they have
been used regularly for ~ 17 years for club racing,
I am not disappointed nor surpr
Haven't done that but been there with my 36 XL/kcb.
It has a piece of SS tubing surrounded by padding/cover which matches the
settee's ultrasuede. It is secured
by two SS pipe holders (?) into which it slips tightly which are screwed down
to the wood beneath the starboard settee and another, h
I just power washed my 16 year old deck and it cleaned up easily.
?
OTOH, I am looking at pretty 'flat white' (non-painted) gel-coat.
?
Also, I need to redo my non-skid for the 2nd time soon, probably with the Kiwi
stuff which was well reviewed by Practical Sailor recently.
?
Ideally this will be
My C&C 36 XL/kcb has, by necessity, a relatively short rudder so that it is no
deeper than the keel/cb trunk at ~ 4.5 feet.
In an effort to slightly improve it while maintaining its depth, my sailmaker
suggested adding small 'winglets' to it near the bottom on both sides, which I
did.
Don't k
Mine is a 1995 XL/kcb so YMMV. Plus there are others on the list who may have
an identical c/b model to yours.
With those caveats, here goes:
Your center board is probably a weighted board--not just a piece of fiberglass.
If it is anything like mine, it could weigh close to 1000 lbs.
I have a
I have size 20 Lewmar Ocean hatch that has a crack near the single handle. I
have found info
on the Lewmar site about how to disassemble the lid for possible lens
replacement.
Anyone done this or should I just bite the bullet and by a replacement lid with
lens fitted?
Charlie Nelson
Water
I added a pair of in-line filter/pumps (in parallel and electrically
switchable).
After multiple engine stalls over many months and the subsequent searches for
vacuum leaks/fuel starvation/etc. ad nauseam my mechanic suggested I bypass the
Beta-28 fuel pump. He thought that it was likely working
I had my main cabin head/ceiling brush painted with 1 part Brightsides
(Pettit?) White and it looks better than new—especially the plastic hole covers
which now finally match the ceiling. Amazing how much nicer/finished this looks
compared to the original.
Of course about 25 years have gone by
I use a ~ 30 watt solar to keep my batteries topped off without using shore
power even when it is available. It is wired directly to my start battery and
my ACR keeps both batteries topped off.
My question is should I put a fuse in the positive output from the solar
controller—IIRC it has a MPPT
If it runs freely and rpms increase normally w/o trans engaged, I would look at
the trans, packing gland too tight/shaft not aligned/cutless
bearing/etc.——-something that is ‘aft’ of the engine.
Charlie Nelson
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Wednesday, September 8, 2021, 1:43 AM, Tom
My local rigger is taking no chances re-rigging my 95 C&C 36XL. He sent it all
to Rigging Only(?) in Rhode Is and will reinstall with new which has been
matched exactly.
Some parts of older rigging are often not available and must be replaced with
similar or manufactured ($$$) to match.
I bit
W/L racing is also ‘encouraged’ by some PROs when their mark boats are limited
to only 1. Much easier to adjust the course if you only need to either adjust
the line or move only 1 or at most 2 marks (W and L).
Moving a jibe mark efficiently to provide a ‘more perfect’ triangle usually
requires
FWIW, I advise careful consideration of a hydraulic steering system.
I have only helmed one boat with such a system which we tried unsuccessfully to
sail to Bermuda in November.
Notwithstanding the folly of attempting such a crossing from NC after hurricane
season (early November) but with nor’e
Where can I find more boat info—is she on a listing somewhere?
In particular, how has her cb been ‘permanently’ raised? What might be involved
in making it retractable again?
Charlie Nelson1995 C&C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Saturday, September 11, 2021, 6
Agree with Chuck and Randy.
The DIY approach many of us have with regard to our boat systems is not likely
to be adequate for current Li batteries of which I know nothing except they can
be charged rapidly and they keep going rather well until they don’t!
When the battery and charger manufacturer
Yes— but only the below deck stuff which is glued on—not sure if it’s the same
stuff you are referring to.
Charlie Nelson
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Monday, September 20, 2021, 7:55 AM, Rod Stright via CnC-List
wrote:
Has anyone use the EVA teak marine decking? If so do you
Had a similar problem to yours several years ago. After doing most of what you
have done, my diesel mechanic suggested just replacing the Racor MA 500(?) top
plate since even a little over tightening can push the middle down enough that
the O-ring on the circumference will leak enough that after
Try RV outfitters—Camping World carries wider and thicker butyl tape.
Charlie Nelson
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Saturday, October 2, 2021, 9:29 AM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List
wrote:
A related question: does anyone know of a comparable butyl tape that is
wider?
On 02.10.2021
Has it been determined that C&C never skipped some hull numbers as different
modifications to say a 30 Mk I were incorporated.
In that case perhaps hull number 129 was followed by hull #200 which was the
same ‘model’ but incorporated a new/improved something or other.
Skipping numbers in a sequen
Will do—the agent was independent and perhaps under different rules from
Progressive. I tried with him since the on-line process was a PITA but if I can
save some money, I can take a little PITA.
Charlie Nelson
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Tuesday, October 12, 2021, 3:31 PM, Joe D
I hope my experience in brackish NC sound/rivers is similar. Tried it for first
time this past spring.
Charlie NelsonWater PhantomC&C 36 XL/kcb
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Saturday, October 23, 2021, 2:17 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List
wrote:
#yiv4134281910 #yiv4134281910 -- _fi
Sounds like a great idea—I look forward to list ideas. One key is to place
gauge where it can be seen easily—on the engine control panel is not ideal
considering the contortions one must endure to read anything in most engine
panels placed down low and with barely enough room to get your head in
You might also consider a Forte whisker or spin pole. I have both on Water
Phantom and they have worked well for almost 20 years.
When I bought mine (spin first) they were less expensive than the Forespar
equivalent and the were made on a mandrel with biaxial carbon fiber impregnated
with resin
Joel:
I may have one that might work—came from Beta 28 that needed a different
reduction ratio for the folding prop I installed.
If there is a chance it would work (need details of reduction ratio, etc.) it’s
his for the shipping cost.
I can check out what this transmission’s specs are by middle
This looks like a serious repair that involves the forestay which is essential
for rig stability and boat/crew safety—much more than cosmetic IMHO.
I have done many cosmetic repairs to my boat, including some serious
fibreglass/epoxy work as well as building a wooden dinghy with the stitch and
If actually used as a cutting board, is there a recommended stain/varnish/etc.
to apply to the board to enhance its longevity?
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Saturday, February 19, 2022, 2:39 PM, Stu via CnC-List
wrote:
On Monday, 21st of February, mo
1+ to recommendations for a serious evaluation of this issue by someone who
really knows boats—naval engineer, architect, whatever, unless of course your
sailing venue (current and future) is inshore in reasonable temperature waters
and perhaps within easy reach of rescue and that you require al
Depending on your DIY skills and the local rigger fees, etc. you might consider
the following which I recentlyhad done on my 27 yr old rod rigging on my C&C 36
XL/kcb.
A local rigger removed and shipped my original rod rigging to BSI or Rigging
Only (?) for them to duplicate exactly. He then ins
I have used bed-it butyl tape for many bedding applications such as winches,
ports, etc. with success, although I often wished it was available in thicker
and wider dimensions.
OTOH, butyl tape (not bed-it) is available at most RV stores and I have used
this version with equal success.
The RV v
I agree!
You might also look at Northstar (?) all virgin lead AGM batteries that come
with (or used to) a very good warranty—full replacement up to 3 yrs IIRC.
Sold at Batteries plus stores (and probably others). One of my crew left the
fridge on when he left the boat and ruined 2 31 size Northst
A great idea although my mast is not routinely removed—twice since new in 1995.
At least this solution allows the cable to be disconnected and reconnected
without cutting it, which the Shakespeare connector requires.
Of course, I would need a ‘crimper’ for the male connectors—as another poster
pr
+1 on Dometic.
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C&C 36XL/kcb
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Tuesday, June 14, 2022, 11:45 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
March/Dometic. Most reliable in my opinion.
--
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Jun 14, 2022 at 10:16 AM CHARLE
OTOH, as I age I often forget that I fixed/replaced/rebuilt/etc. a particular
piece of gear previously—often even forgetting how I fixed it before.
Thus most projects are ‘new’ to my aging brain!
Charlie NelsonWater PhantomC&C 36XL/kcb
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Tuesday, June 21,
In my case, the sheets are led down to the tack as the sleeve is hoisted over
the sail.
Charlie
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Tuesday, June 21, 2022, 8:24 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List
wrote:
So, do you zip down to your sheets, and zip up to them, or do you take the
sheets off a
Great info and from someone who knows about dip pole or other kite maneuvers!
If the after guard, including the trimmers, are paying attention the
appropriate sheets and guys are in their proper places, just displaced from
each other fore and aft as my tactician prefers.
I am now convinced that t
Also consider yards in coastal or the sounds of NC. Plenty of DIY yards in the
Pamlico Sound, Neuse River, Albemarle Sound, Southport, NC.
Those away from the Atlantic coast are mostly very reasonable in cost with
decent amenities and most allow DIY work although boats with drafts of ~ 5+ ft
ma
Love my in-boom purchase!
My 1995 36 XL has a ‘magic’ 2, 3 or 4 purchase within the boom for the out
haul.(can’t recall exactly). Whatever it is, it can be used in any breeze in
which we do not need to reef our main (our go-to reefing).
Once we need to reef the main, there is no need for this p
Note that on my recent renewal with Boat/US there were mileage limits on the
tow depending on the level of insurance.
The old unlimited may still be available but don’t assume that your coverage
includes it——“caveat emptor” or something like that!!
OTOH, before I returned to Boat/US, my towing c
I don’t do much night racing but when I did, I found stanchion flashlight
mounts very useful.
Aim the pair at your favorite tell tales (or at all of the tell tales if you
have multiple pairs of mounts and flashlights) with a red filter on them and
you’re good to go. Don’t remember where I got th
Great idea Alan, esp. attaching them ‘backwards’!
I will have to use some old cassette tapes instead.
What do you use to attach/stick them to the sail?
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Tuesday, February 28, 2023, 12:32 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
wrote:
Given the light weight of ‘Sticky back’( presumed to be plastic type film that
serves as a sail cover when the head sail is furled), I doubt that it is the
problem with your leech. (Before I went with a furling sock, I had new carbon
sails that had something similar on them for UV protection— ve
Last things first, my rule of thumb (origin lost to memory) is to have enough
threads to match the diameter of the bolt: thus a 1/4 x 20 bolt should have a
minimum of 5 threads (20/4 = 5). Threads beyond that are overkill.
Next I would consider using a oscillating tool to cut away the inner liner
Similar to my recent (2020/2021) 155% 3Di from North. No luff cover-I use a
sleeve—and IIRC it was ~$6600 all in.
It was of medium weight for potential racing near the ocean and hopefully for
better longevity!
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
I have always had a sailmaker/salesperson measure my boat for any sail—whether
national (Hood, North) or local. Given the sail costs for my 36 XL and the
limited number of hulls made, I didn’t trust myself to make the measurements or
to rely on some sail database.
For my latest 3Di 155%, the Nor
If you have been keeping up with your filter changes (primary, secondary,
Racor, etc.) and the boat is used regularly, my bet is on an air leak somewhere
in the fuel system, perhaps generated by changing your filters.
An overtightened Racor can deform the lid and allow air in and any change in
t
I also suffer from engine anxiety after dealing with unreliable diesel
operation over about 2 years, during which time it would quit, usually
immediately restart, run for several minutes or several hours and then quit,
repeat, etc.
The most recent fix (electric fuel pump x2, switchable) with the
1 - 100 of 168 matches
Mail list logo