The Battery Council International (BCI) group number is a specification for the
physical dimensions, terminal type, voltage, and terminal placement of a
battery. All BCI 31 batteries will be close to the same size, will have the
same terminals, and the same voltage. Capacity construction and che
That is "Borg Collective Vessel 34J51"... Though wouldn't all Borg Collective
ships operate as one entity?
Right generation, wrong quadrant.
Right, Edd?
Rick Brass
Sent from my iPad
> On May 2, 2014, at 13:57, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> We are the "listers". You will be assimil
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.332.4400 | Office
> 914.332.1671 | Fax
> 914.774.9767 | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 5
>
> On May
Typical voltage regulator on an automotive alternator will provide 13.6 to 13.8
volts when the engine is running. As the batteries get charged up, which
happens pretty quickly for a starting battery, the internal resistance of the
battery will increase and the voltage will drop below 13.5.
The
Many years ago, a salty old retired USCG chief taught me the rule of thumb that
you should have one pound of anchor and one foot of chain for every foot of
boat length.
I decided this current discussion would be a good time to double check that
rule of thumb.
I was pleased to find that Boat/US
The soot builds up partly because the engine is running too cool.
Operating temp should be at least 165 to 180 F.
Rick Brass
Sent from my iPad
> On May 21, 2014, at 23:43, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Why change? Just let the engine run cooler.
>
> Josh Muckley
> 1989 C&C 37+
> S
I used to have a Newport of similar vintage to the 26. It was a C&C design and
also had a small locker on the aft end of the starboard cockpit seat, sand
drained into the bilge. On the Newport this was intended as a cooler for
beverages and snacks in the cockpit. The drain into the bilge was pro
Or those of us who have engines with stop solenoid so instead of cables.
Sent from my iPad
> On May 26, 2014, at 13:31, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I would venture to ask all who never tried starting the engine with the stop
> cable pulled out to raise hands. I am afraid that the
I have an M35B in Imzadi. Max RPM is 3000 for that engine. IIRC the max torque
is between 2400 and 2600 RPM - which is consistent with the rule of thumb that
max torque is at about 80% of max RPM.
Your engine will thank you if you use it regularly and with significant load.
Idling for extended
Or go to your reputable auto parts store with the old cable. A Teledyne cable
is a Teledyne cable. And probably less at the auto parts store than at a boat
supplier - and more likely to be in stock instead of a special order.
Rick Brass
Sent from my iPad
> On May 27, 2014, at 12:09, Rich Knowl
Mike;
If you travel the ICW on your trip south, get in touch with me when you get to North Carolina. I'd be happy to play host for an evening, and would love to compare boat mods made to adapt our racer/cruisers for liveaboard cruising.
Rick Brass
Imzadi
C&C 38 mk1
Washingon, NC
252-946-2244
A friend is looking at a 1974 30-1 in Beaufort, NC. The seller gave us a copy
of a recent survey of the boat.
On the survey the hull number is listed as "300116" which is probably taken
from the metal plate in the cockpit. Model 30. Hull #116. Makes sense.
But the HIN shown for the boat is MDZ4
Allied built a knock off of the Cape Dory 25. One came through the city docks
where I work about a week ago, with a young couple moving it to their new home.
When I asked if it was a Cape Dory, they told me it was an Allied, licensed
from the Cape Dory 25 design.
Rick Brass
Sent from my iPad
Richard;
This is a subject that gets covered often on the list. You will find a wealth of instructions on the DIY section of the Photo Album, or in the list archives.
But first, you will need to identify which version of portlights (the name for non-opening cbin windos) you have. Early boats
air is made.
> Thanks,
> Rick Jorgensen
> Gloucester, MA
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 11:35 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Advi
Richard,
Just to add a bit to what Dennis has written (and thanks Denis for providing
the seal part numbers, it saves me a trip to the storage shed and from digging
through my spares):
I use a tongue depresser as a push stick, bought a package at Walgreens a few
years ago for mixing epoxy and
I'm not sure the temperature extremes are radically different between St Louis
and eastern Pennsylvania, where my 25 lived after I bought her, or Boston,
where the 38 lived before I bought her. On both boats, a single strip of spline
is all that is needed and has stayed in the corners with no pr
FWIW, All of our docks have fingers that are 35 long by approximately 16 wide.
There is a 60 foot fairway between each set of docks. That is 171% of nominal
boat length. We have put sailboats as long as 38 into the 35 foot slips (about
160%) with little or no problems.
Trawlers and single engin
Call Ritchie or go on line to find a repair center near you. They will have
compass oil.
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 5, 2014, at 13:49, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Whale oil will also work. :-)
>
> Bill Bina
>> On 6/5/2014 1:41 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
>> West Ma
Just a reminder before we all send Ed off to but a moisture meter and dismount
the rudder to take it home to dry out.
The rudder is a transom hung one on a 24, and probably made like the rudder on
a comparable vintage 25. Which means it is hollow below the waterline and has a
hole at the top an
BTW, I'm pretty sure Jake Broderson and Fred Street are crewing on The Office
Rick Brass
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 8, 2014, at 20:43, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Everybody watching?
>
> http://www.bermudaoceanrace.com/race-overview/2014tracker
>
> C&C listers are Joel Aronson,
It seems to have been a pretty slow race so far. We are having winds from a
high pressure system that passed north of the fleet as they came down the bay.
The fleet is about 100-150 NM into the ocean now, and most of the boats in PHRF
3 (which includes Impromptu and The Office) are heading east
Sorry for the late post, but I've just gotten back from the C&C owners
gathering in Bermuda.
As James has said, the exact break is a mystery as deep as the whereabouts of
Hoffa's body or Jimmy Buffets shaker of salt. The preponderance of opinion
seems to be that the change from mk1 to mk2 happe
Richard,
All boats with right hand prop rotation tend to veer to port when under power.
It is generally more noticeable at lower speeds, but is present all the time.
It is called torque steer and is the forward motion version of prop walk.
On my 38 it needs 4 or 5 degrees of starboard rudder at
Personally, I have always been convinced that the statement in the ads is a
really smart and subtle promotional message and not a serious health warning.
Put there to impress us with the results we might get.
But I vote that we don't add comments on the effectiveness of ED meds to
foredeck cows
David,
I think that there is a problem with the traveler. I replaced my old bridge
deck mounted Schaefer traveler that came on the boat with a Garhauer. I can
adjust the traveler from behind the helm using one hand in 15-20 knots. The
Garhauer has a 6:1 purchase on a ball bearing car.
FWIW, th
I reprinted my pedestal circa 208 or 2009 when I was replacing the idler
sheaves that are mounted on the plate below the cockpit sole. I did it off the
boat and my pedestal is white (so less heat to impact the paint) but I have
been pleased with the result and no current indication of decay in t
Or you could do what I did. The 6'1" draft of my 38 was impractical for the
Carolina Sounds, the ICW, and the Bahamas. So I called Mars Metals (who cast
the original keels for most of our boats) and had them make me a torpedo bulb
to replace the bottom 10" of keel.
For about $4k installed, I no
A few months ago I spoke with some cruisers headed north after a winter in the
Bahamas ( not their first trip, either) in a Director 65 drawing 6'6".
I asked them about access because of the deep draft.
Theory old me that 20-25% of the destination/anchorages were not a problem,
40-50 % could us
The genoa sheets for my 38 are 7/16ths. I use a "fuzzy" double braid that I
bought from Cajun Rope in Canada. Strength somewhere between StaSet and
StaSetX, but a really soft hand that is nice on the hands.
On my 25 I use 3/8ths line of the same material. 5/16ths line is just too small
to be c
Question 1 is whether your engine is raw water cooled or fresh water cooled.
Raw water cooling means water from outside the boat is clumped through the
engine block for cooling, then mixed with the exhaust to cool that, then
expelled back into the lake. If your engine is raw water cooled, the th
A few months ago there was a discussion about the Fuller Brush ports on many of
our boats. I've finally gotten around to replacing the 5x12 opening port in the
head of my 38 with a new Beckson port that has drain spouts, designed for
installation in sloped sides of the cabin. Hopefully that will
I'm surprised at the need to rebuild two or three times per year. The head ate
in my 38 has just been rebuilt for the second time in the 11 years I've owned
her.
This rebuild was because the piston seal was worn, and the pump would loose
prime and operate slowly. When I installed the new servic
Sent from my iPad
> Pumping free ash water through the head wil help clear the joker valve and
> any effluent in the hose to the tank. But the flow from the head comes into
> the tank at the top.
Any sludge left in the tank after the pump out will be in the bottom inch or so
of the tank, whi
$701Us plus freight seems expensive, given the West Marine has the same head in
their catalog for $579.
The complete Jabsco electric head you have, for comparison, it $449 at WM.
I notice from the specs that the head you have draws 16 amps. The Jabsco Lite
draws 25. The controlled water usage i
Note to self: Don't get work done on the boat in Chesapeake Bay.
Re $5k for cushions, I just had all the cushions done on my 38. Two v berth
cushions plus the filler, two settee cushions plus four seat backs and four arm
cushions, quarter berth cushion, and assorted bolster cushions and pillows
Practical Sailor did a review of topside paints a few years ago. Considered
shine, ease of application, durability, UV resistance over a couple of years.
Two part paints like Algrip were rated best, but the Rustoleum Marine paints
matched the performance of the best one part marine finished like
My rub rail was damaged in a collision some years ago. It is an integral part
of the hull to deck seal, and riveted to the flange of the hull. So removing or
replacing it involved lifting the entire deck off the hull by about 6" to get
space to remove the rivets. Plus all the wiring connections
Denatured alcohol is all I've ever used in the stove on the 38 or the Origo
stove on the 25. About once a year I go to Lowes and buy a gallon can.
And one of these days I'll finally get around to installing the new propane
stove I bought for the 38 a couple of years ago. I'm told it is easier to
Petar;
If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½”
Rick Brass
Imzadi C&C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
Washington, NC
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of phorvati .
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM
To: CNC bo
Is it called a Yacht Thruster? I was talking to a cruiser on my docks who had
installed one on his Crealock 37. He seemed pleased. I thought it sort of
pricey, but I suppose it is still a lot less expensive then a tube across the
hull under the v berth. He didn’t say anything about a speed penal
If you are unable to get proper luff tension when raising the main, and you
suspect the cause may be the tension on the leach of the sail, then the
problem is most likely that you have not loosened the mainsheet (or vang if
you have one) sufficiently before raising the sail. The weight of the boom
I have an IPad 3 which was a gift. It has cellular capability (so it has a
built in GPS), but has never been connected to cellular service. The GPS
function operates perfectly below decks and everywhere else. I have never had a
problem receiving GPS data, even inside my house which has a metal r
The IPad needs to have cellular capability, which means it has an on board GPS.
That does not mean that you need a cellular contract, nor that you need to even
enable the cellular connection under the GENERAL section of the SETTINGS
screen. Mine has always been turned off, yet the GPS works just
Office Depot has a Lenovo 10" android tablet at a regular price of about
$115. The 7" is about $89. Look for a sale, Christmas is coming.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2015 12:04 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject
My IPad has worked between the east coast and Bermuda. GPS no problem. The real
problem is keeping the battery charged.
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2015 6:04 PM
part soft vang. What's the cost and performance
benefits of going to a boom kicker vs a solid vang?
Allen Miles
Septima C&C 30-2
Hampton, VA
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 9:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-lis
Stu, I'd appreciate contacting Mark Janda as well. James' message prompted
me to look at the Photo Album ads for the first time in a while, and I see a
couple of items for my 38 that I could probably use. I tore up my RF 140 a
couple of weeks ago, and I see that he has two for sale. Plus I see a
pr
tuff
Rick — is that Bayfield, Wisconsin, or Bayfield, Ontario? I’m not familiar
with Mark, but I can check around this weekend.
Haulout tomorrow… :^(
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Oct 8, 2015, at 9:10 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-Li
>From all the comments over the past few years I know that David's comment is
true. But I have always wondered "WHY?". What changed to make the rudder
position sensor essential?
Over the years I've had an Autohelm tillerpilot (800 I think) on a 27 and a
Raymarine 1000 tillerpilot on my 25 with
La Belle Aurore, 25 mk1 hull number 225, still has the roller furling boom –
and I even still have the crank that came with the boat for furling. Like
Touche, the roller boom is disabled by the Garhauer Vang. Bell has end boom
sheeting with the traveler on the transom. And though I have done awa
Graham is correct. The Interprotect literature indicates you should apply
the first coat of bottom paint before the Interprotect fully cures so that
it bonds with the Interprotect and acts as a primer. You touch the partially
cured material with a knuckle. When it is cured enough that you leave a
k
All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a
dye in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid.
When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of
Sulphur content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the
injection
thoughts on SeaFoam?
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List"
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Rick Brass"
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus
Ditto.
Biobor is an algaecide (though it may have other things in it?). Stanadyne is a
lubricant. Have used both for perhaps 10 years.
Rick Brass
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 6:58 PM
To:
James is correct. Back in 2004 I reduced my draft from 6’1” to 5’3” using a
Mars Metals torpedo bulb. My goal was to have a boat suitable to our shallow NC
sounds, and for eventual cruising in the Bahamas and Keys.
I had to tell Mars how short we were making the keel, and how much the lead
r
Three years is about the experience I had when I still used Micron for
bottom paint.
Tip for you paint job in the spring: As a first coat paint the forward third
of the hull, the forward half of the keel, and the forward half of the
rudder with a contrasting color of paint. I use blue as a first c
A spray bottle of muriatic acid does the same thing. Use a cheap spray bottle
because you will only get to use it one time.
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dreuge via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 7:30 PM
T
I bought the decals on Belle at an Atlantic City Boat Show (back when they
still had them) from a company that specialized in lettering for boats. Not
Boat/US. That was back in about 95 or 96 and the letting is still in great
shape with no noticeable fading.
Had to replace one set of decals
nd in the slip! I thought it was attached to the bottom!
Rick
Paige's 37+
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 22, 2015, at 7:17 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List
wrote:
>
> Three years is about the experience I had when I still used Micron for
> bottom paint.
>
> Tip for you paint j
-fouling paint -> devolving the basal plates
Any harm in using muriatic acid on my bronze prop or s/s shaft? That's where I
find most basal plates.
--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
On Oct 22, 2015, at 22:20, Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrot
As I recall from prior posts on the list, and from reading the explanation
of HINs on the USCG website, there are at least three different schemes for
hull ID numbers that have been used over the years. I believe that the
explanation that Chuck included below is for the current scheme.
On my o
The “M” actually does mean something – that the manufacturer is using the MODEL
Year format that was optional prior to August 1, 1984.
Why August 1st? Because any boat started after August 1st is by definition a
boat of the following MODEL Year.
If you look at the date codes listed under
>From the pictures you sent, it appears that the fiberglass layup is virtually
>identical to the layup in my early 1975 model. I have the same raised area of
>fiberglass under one of the keel bolts, and also the same strip if roving
>athwart the bilge and extending up under the cockpit sole.
bump, and a very swept back
keel.
Anybody have the brochure for this model?
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
_____
From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc
Take your cables to the local NAPA or other auto parts store. They will match
the length and the cable ends to the proper Teledyne – Morse cables for your
installation. They are pretty inexpensive, I think I paid about $40-45 for the
replacement cables for my 38 (one of which was the old fat cab
My #1 is a 155 made of Pentax and Kevlar, and I fly it up to about 15 or 17
apparent. My next step down is a 110 Lapper with a short hoist and about a 2’
pendant at the head of the sail. I bought a 65% storm jib when I first bought
the boat, thinking I would need it. I guess I’ve flown it about
I have a 75 model boat that I’ve owned for 21 years, and a 76 model that I’ve
owned for 12. Between them they have 6 aluminum frame windows. None of the
frames have ever been rebidded, and none of them leak.
Back in the mid-90s when I replaced the first pair of portlight lenses on my
25, som
I rebuilt an A&H hatch with 295UV. It certainly was persnickety about the
cleaning, the primer, and the timing. But I don’t recall it as being
particularly messy to apply or to clean up. And it has certainly never leaked.
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-b
A few weeks ago, about 4 listers were trying to contact Mark Janda about
some items for a 38 mk2 that he had listed on the Photo Album classifieds.
Someone on the list knew Mark and offered to pass along our names. Stu also
fixed the contact information on the classified ads. A week ago I emailed
M
I spent 3 ½ trying hours today attempting to replace the hatch seal on the
Lewmar Ocean 60 foredeck hatch on Kathy Sisks 29-2. She bought the Lewmar
hatch seal kits for both the 60 series foredeck hatch and the 20 series on
the cabin top. We started with the foredeck hatch because that one has bee
The attached video was included in a post from a sailing TV website this
morning. I have to say I'm impressed to see so many C&C 30s on the line, and
the performance of the boats is impressive. Certainly not "us father's" C&C.
And pretty athletic for this fat old man. But impressive none the less.
And since the biggest batteries you could fit into the bilge of a 25 would be D
cells, I think the Irwin 43 is the correct assumption.
Rick Brass
Imzadi C&C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
Washington, NC
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Freder
Damn. Wish Id thought about McMaster-Carr when I did my boat 20-some years
ago. I paid more than $5 a plate way back then.
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 10:30 AM
Ahmet;
As I said before, I replaced the original steel backing plates (if I recall,
they were more like steel fender washers) on my 25 when she was a bit over 20
years old. I had some square backing plates made out of 3/16” or ¼” stainless.
About 3 or 4 inches square and with the proper size
While on vacation in Key West a few years ago, I had the chance for a
conversation over a couple of beers with the skipper of the former Stars and
Stripes that sailed/sails out of Key West. He told me the Coast Guard made them
take a significant amount off the mast – something like 17 feet! – be
Through luck or skill, we managed to bring the 72' schooner I was on over
the weekend into the yard within 10 minutes after high tide - which was
pretty much what was intended, based on the presumption that high tide would
mean something close to slack water. Unfortunately, on arrival I found we
st
The keel bolt under the mast isn’t “wrong”, it’s just darned inconvenient every
decade or so. ;-)
You have good design and optimum placement for the keel bolt, and good design
and optimum placement for the mast. At least by the design standards of the
period. It just happens the placement ov
3M Weather-strip Adhesive 8011 is probably what is holding the neoprene seals
around the doors in your car. Any good auto store that caters to body shops
should have it.
Another alternative is 3M Emblem and Trim Adhesive 3601, which you can buy at
Walmart or just about any auto parts store.
gasket adhesive number
8002. Looks like yellow contact cement. Hopefully it will do the job.
Joel
On Sunday, December 6, 2015, Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
3M Weather-strip Adhesive 8011 is probably what is holding the neoprene seals
around the doors i
My friend’s 1983 LF38 has a rather large removable rectangular panel in the
area you are talking about (which provides pretty fair access to the right side
of the engine, transmission, and v drive, as I know from personal experience).
There are stainless tabs on the edge of the panel that keep t
I understand the location now, it’s the partition that separated the battery
“shelf” from the storage area under the quarter berth. Right?
I think I’d agree with others who have suggested the problem is likely to be
battery fumes and not water penetration. Air circulation outboard of the
bat
Dennis,
I agree with you that nut drivers are essential tools. I find I use the set on
the boat much more than I use the socket wrenches. I’m going to give myself a
set with a spring loaded shaft for Christmas, because I am constantly amazed at
how often the normal nut driver is just a bit t
Your boat is just too new, Josh. The boats built in Canada in the 70s have
HUNDREDS of flat head Roberson screws (if they haven’t gotten replaced with
Phillips oval head screws over the years).
Rick
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
via CnC-L
I've seen the pleated blinds and the aluminum rails they are mounted on in
an RV parts catalog. I wonder if they come in a standard size that might
fit, and if you can't buy them through an RV dealer/service provider in your
area.
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
From: CnC-List [mailto:c
Having worked for a forklift company that made a lot of container handling
equipment, I can tell you what I recall.
5 lost containers per ship is probably not a bad guess at the average. Although
it is not 5 containers off every ship, it is more the case of 100 containers
off every 20th ship
The Doyle Stack Packs I’ve seen have all had the bottom edge of the sail sewn
into the bottom seam of the Stack Pack. And a set of sail slugs along the
bottom of the assembly are in the grove on the top of your boom. I can’t swear
from experience that this is true for all Doyle Stack Packs, just
I guess I need a bit of education from the list.
The boats that I have been on that have a Dutchman flaking system (which is
only 1 or 2) have all had the top of the vertical (monofilament?) lines that
the sail slides down attached to the topping lift. I thought this was the
norm. Dwight’s
I don’t know about the Annapolis area, but here in Eastern North Carolina that
price would be obscene.
I’ve completely redone the upholstery in my 38 in the past year. Total cost
about $1600 for the following:
2 v berth cushions – new 6” foam and medium brown Ultrasuede, Pfeifertex mesh
I don’t know, Chuck.
Back when I shortened the keel and added a torpedo bulb to Imzadi in 2003, we
measured the draft as 5’3”, before she was launched. The bulb was something
like 350 pounds more than the weight of led removed when we cut off the keel,
so the floating draft might be a skoosh
My 38 was originally built with an A4. There are 2 4” cowl vents on the
transom, with 4” ventilation hose routed into the engine space. There are 2
blowers similar to the ones that Marek identified in his post mounted under the
cockpit sole; one of these is routed to push fresh air into the engi
The geek in me just has to jump in here with some technical information. So
here goes:
Yes, Rick, vaporized diesel will blow up like vaporized gasoline.
And Yes, Patrick, diesel does not vaporize easily. And is a lot less likely to
support a flame than Gasoline as well.
The flash poin
You’re right, Joe.
That isn’t an example of an explosive vapor ignited by a spark, but rather a
liquid mist being heated above the 494 F ignition point of the liquid. And
that’s not a situation that a blower would help avoid.
Rick
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
I agree that it is a “what’s important to you” issue, but for me the weight
aloft isn’t a real concern. The antenna weighs 10-15 pounds and up near the
second spreader would be 35 feet off the deck. I don’t see that as all that
significant because I don’t race any more.
For me the tradeoff i
I have a 1250 GPH Johnson cartridge pump on Imzadi, similar to these:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/johnson-pump--automatic-submersible-bilge-pumps--P011006897
. Johnson also makes the West Marine pumps available in my local store.
All of these come with a check valve that is a small rubber c
I was self-insured for a couple of years and bought all the ethical meds for my
girlfriend and myself at Canada Drugs Online.
https://www.canadadrugsonline.com/sitemap.aspx I always found them to be very
service oriented and easy to work with.
She took Effexor, at a cost of just under $300 a
$260 net is a very attractive price. I have a GX2100 with AIS, but GPS is not
built in. Mine is connected to the plotter at my helm, with the plotter feeding
the GPS data and displaying the AIS information. I like the system very well
(though the repeated AIS warnings when you are in certain par
Colregs rule 2 makes yelling “Hey you, get outta the way” a waste of breath. I
suppose yelling at another racer (Starboard! Idiot!) or the occasional race
committee might be a satisfying addition to a red flag. But I never really felt
the need for a loudhailer.
And if I am in a literal fog (
I hear what you are saying, Fred. And I have to agree.
Imzadi has a fixed mount VHF at the helm and also a separate fixed mount at the
nav station. Each is connected to a GPS (the one at the helm is the Garmin
chartplotter), and each has a dedicated antenna.
While I like the redundancy, t
Joel makes a good point.
The genoa sheets on my 38 are 7/16”. One set are StaSet, the other are a fuzzy
braid Dacron from Cajun Trading. My headsail is almost as much sail area as
your whole rig. So 7/16ths is bigger than you need. 3/8” StaSet or equivalent
would be better, and less expensiv
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