I placed a transducer on our 41 just behind the keel sump on the
centerline. It is solid glass there as the core does not extend to the
centerline. The overlaps of layers of cloth provide the required thickness.
I would assume the other models are built in a similar manner. Our CHIRP
sonar/depth so
Hello,
A few of my stanchions on my 1981 are not as straight as I would like due to
years of use and the yard shrink-wrapping around them to the deck. Anyone try
to straighten theirs? I understanding cold bending S/S is not too fatiguing
within reason...although they are stanchions and any
David, just went through the process of rationalizing straightening vs. new for
a couple of slightly bent stanchions. Klacko Marine will build new for about
$50 ea. but shipping is about the same $ from Canada to the US. Went to a local
shop in Holland, Mi (Quality Marine Electronics) and got qu
Hi David,
I straightened two of my stanchions using gentle persuasion.
I think I used a piece of pipe over the outside and clamped the pipe into a
bench vise.
Then I slipped the stanchion into the pipe and using another longer section of
pipe, hand bent the thing straight.
Chuck S
> On May 21,
Tony; in your response to David's inquiry about bent stanchions; I was curious
about why there was no need for the plastic inserts for the lower
lifelines...what did Klacko do to eliminate the need for them? ThanksRichard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio Rvier, Mile 596
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge L
Listers in the New York City metropolitan area. If you would like to receive
email notices about USPS boating classes and seminars let me know and I will
have you added to the email list. Classes range from basic boating up to
Celestial and offshore navigation Jerry
Sent from my iPhone
> O
I mounted mine just forward of the keel. It was solid glass
.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 3:12 AM Glenn Henderson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I placed a transducer on our 41 just behind the keel sump on the
> centerline. It is
Hello all,
After suffering few fuel starving, I decided to have spare part for everything
between fuel tank and engine fuel injection pump. Engine is a Universal M-35.
RPM would slowly drop down then engine dies. I am able to start it back by just
opening the fuel blead valve on the injection pu
David,
I have some stanchions that did not break or bend in our incident last winter.
You are welcome to whatever is still good. I replaced all the stanchions and
bases.
One thing, though, is that they are pretty “salt-fused” in the sockets. I can
check when I get home for exactly what I have in
Can you unsubscribe me from the list. Thanks
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
On Mon, May 20, 2019 at 9:14 PM, J Roger via CnC-List
wrote: My C&C36R same deal this spring with the A4. Marginal Fwd and marignal
REV. Any source for parts (new cable) recommended Yankee or Canuck?
TY._
David,
As regards Chuck’s reference to salt-fused, I can attest to the problems I ran
across. All of my stanchions were virtually welded to the cast aluminum bases.
I tried solvents and heat from a cutting torch to no avail. Broke one base in
the process. I resorted to hack-sawing the tubes out
Yup…that’s my fear too. Might play with plumbers manual pipe bender on boat.
From its design it seems as though it will not load up the base. Stay tuned.
David F. Risch
Gulf Stream Associates
(401) 419-4650
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 2:2
Thanks Chuck…
David F. Risch
Gulf Stream Associates
(401) 419-4650
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Chuck Borge via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 12:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Borge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Straightening Stanchions...
David,
I have some stanchions that did not
Richard, both Klacko and my local source weld a portion of a tube with a 3/8"
id and fair the exits smooth. Much cleaner than the plastic grommets.
incidentally, if you need grommets, most hardware stores have them in black
nylon in their nuts and bolts section. better than new! They also weld
Pierre,
I’m on Touché so I don’t have my usual reference sources. I carry a spare
Westerbeke 39275 fuel pump for my 25XPB. Doubt it’s same as what you need but
Google and download the M-35 parts manual. Find the Westerbeke part number and
search on it.
Dieselpartsdirect.com may be able to ge
2 micron might be part of your problem. There’s no need to go that fine on your
filter element. 30 micron is perfectly adequate. Remember you have a finer
filter on your engine.
The 2 micron can easily clog up and leave the bowl of your Racor clear.
Andy
Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middle
Pierre,
>From the M-35 parts manual and this link:
https://www.dieselpartsdirect.com/wb039275
Dennis C,
On Tue, May 21, 2019, 10:47 AM Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> After suffering few fuel starving, I decided to have spare part for
> everything
The engine in my 38 is a Universal M35-B, which is probably pretty similar to
your M35.
The diesel was installed by the PO, and was made circa 2000. When I first
bought the boat I also had problems with the lift pump. With longer use it
would heat up and the pump would lose pressure, starvi
The OEM fuel filter for my Universal M35B is 10 microns, plus there is a small
“strainer” filter near the inlet to the lift pump. IIRC, the spare “strainer”
that comes in the parts kit is marked as being something like 70 microns.
The installation manual for the engine suggests using a primar
FWIW, My diesel mechanic advises 30 microns for primary and 10 microns for
secondary. That's what I use on my Universal M4-30.
About fifteen years ago I got worried about my fuel being old and pumped it out
into jerry cans and replaced with fresh fuel. I added a biocide and I don't
have an hour
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