I placed a transducer on our 41 just behind the keel sump on the
centerline. It is solid glass there as the core does not extend to the
centerline. The overlaps of layers of cloth provide the required thickness.
I would assume the other models are built in a similar manner. Our CHIRP
sonar/depth sounder works great there.

Glenn and Lindsey Henderson
C&C 41   WeGo

On Mon, May 20, 2019 at 12:00 PM <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re:  Cored hull and transducer, 1994 C&C37/40+
>       (Frederick G Street)
>    2. Re:  Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades (Matthew L. Wolford)
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
> To: David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 07:15:57 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cored hull and transducer, 1994 C&C37/40+
> Bruce — if you’re going to have two depth transducers running at the same
> time, you’d better check to make sure they’re running on different
> frequencies; otherwise, you’re going to experience some strange results…
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On May 18, 2019, at 6:25 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I bought a Garmin Echomap Plus 94SV and transducer that is on sale at West
> Marine.  This comes with a good transducer that will map out the bottom,
> act as a fish finder, etc.    On most boats, the transducer can be
> mounted in the bilge and will fire through the fiberglass sufficiently.  We,
> however, have a cored hull.
>
> If worse comes to worst, we get depth data via the existing transducer,
> but I'd like the added functionality.
>
> Does anyone know if there is a spot around the keel where the hull is not
> cored and it might work?
>
> Does anyone have a drawing that shows where the hull is, and is not cored?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" <wolf...@erie.net>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 08:39:06 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades
> Brian:
>
>     I replaced the lens on my front hatch and my windows on a 1978 34.
> The
> hatch was Atkins and Hoyle.  The parts are really expensive so do what you
> can to use the existing hatch frame and its parts.  For this job, I
> ordered
> a piece of plexi of the same thickness, had it cut to size, then took it
> to
> a local shop that replaces auto windows.  I told them to use the same
> sealant they use for cars.  They did a fine job -- no leaks.  I also
> replaced the gasket material, which you should be able to find on-line.
> My
> windows were the old style C&C oval windows, which I replaced with Lewmar
> opening ports.  Great upgrade.  I think 1979 was the year C&C started
> using
> "go fast" windows, so you'll want to use the procedure described numerous
> times on this list.  I used this procedure last year on my 42, and the
> windows look brand new with no leaks.
>
>     Matt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2019 12:40 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Brian Morrison
> Subject: Stus-List Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades
>
> Hello,
> I have a 1979 C&C 34. It’s time to upgrade my windows, forward hatch,
> companionway hatch and blinds. The windows and hatches are leaking and
> have
> crazing. The blinds are worn and outdated. Any leads/advice is much
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Brian
> S/V Rekofa
> 1979 C&C34
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