Yeah Paul, I had considered doing that. I also considered having a single
piece of rod drilled and tapped at the correct distance for my selected pad
eye fitting.
I'm just kinda trying to figure out what others do. Everybody else just
tie it to the boom?
Thanks for the idea, lets keep 'em comin
What you have is what I would expect to see as a ground system for a SSB, AM
transmitter (really old), or LORAN. Also note I don’t really like using the
engine as a central grounding point. BlueSea sells a number of terminals you
can use as the central grounding point and then run one heavy grou
Josh
The 2007 C&C115 that we race and the 2008 C&C99 that I sail on both are just
tied around the boom. I think that more or less says this is still how it is
done. Our own ancient Frers 33 also tied around a painted boom. No wear on
paint on the two C&Cs and the wear I see on the Frers boom
Thanks guys for the educated guesses and thanks Joe for the insight and advice.
Some sort of lightning arrest system was my first guess, but I thought it was
odd that the mast wasn't connected to it... Which would be essential for a
lightning system. I hadn't considered an old short wave or Lor
On my ancient 30-1, the factory installed two stout pad-eyes on the port side
of the boom and two cheek blocks on the opposite side. Reefing line(s) run from
pad-eye up through cringle in sail, down to cheek block and then forward to a
winch on the starboard side of the boom. This assures that t
I’m coming down on the side of a ground plate for LORAN, as somebody else
mentioned. If it were my boat, I’d probably pull the plate at the next haul
out and repair the holes in the hull.
As far as a ground loop goes, they’re pretty common in audio and RF systems;
I’m going to stick with audio
What Gary describes is exactly how the reeling is configured on the booms of
both my 38 and my 25. The only thing I might add to his description is that the
pad eye and blocks are not directly under the reef cringles, but a couple of
inches aft of that. The reef line not only holds the cringles
fore fully tighten the screws to
>> lock it in place. See the attached picture of a slug stop. I was kinda
>> hoping someone made this type of thing (a pad eye anchored in a bolt rope
>> track) but all I could find was the harken bat-car system and it is
>> designed to mount a tra
At a recent LOOR night Geoff Moore from North Sails spoke about sails and trim
for the "offshore" races. His recommendation was to have the reefing line tied
around the boom.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Josh
The 2007 C&C115 that we race and the 2008 C&C99 that I sail on both are just
ti
Josh, My 1989 37+ has two ropes that go through the boom and to the coach roof
led aft to the winches and a rams horn hook on the front of the boom. The two
ropes go to each reef point on the leech and I use a line stopper knot (figure
of eight) to secure. I let off halyard tension, hook the Ram
ing. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!
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Thanks Fred,
I know that 60hz hum and its harmonic brethren all too well - I used to be
in a very loud rock band that used excessive gain to cover up terrible
guitar playing...
Regarding putting in a bus bar instead of connecting everything to the
engine: For the sake of brevity I didn't explain
The only thing I would suggest is to use some pad-eye under the boom or some
other way to make sure that the line around the boom cannot slide forward. It
has to work as an outhaul, as well.
Marek
C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON
From: Michael Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 10:41
To: c
Yeah Len,
I have the 3 sheaves at the aft end of the boom. In fact I just had them
all remade by zepherworks. The middle one is for the outhaul. First reef
is on the stbd and second reef is on the port. If you only tie it in the
reef hole and not the boom (through the reef hole) then the clew
Josh, Our mast and boom were built by Offshore Spars. Our boom has a track
bolted to the starboard side with pin stop slides we use for the reefing
points.
You can see it in this photo (assuming the link works):
https://goo.gl/photos/PbbNaZG4WaXGQEHL8
Ken H.
On 8 April 2016 at 13:00, Josh Muck
I don't like tieing the reef line at the reef point. It pulls the sail to
that side and places a lot of stress on the grommet. I'd use either a reef
hoof or a dog-bone so you are pulling down, not sideways. Also, if you
attach the line to the boom you are getting a 2:1 purchase.
Joel
35/3
Annap
Agree. Boom to cringle back to boom for the 2:1.
Here's Touche's reef block and track. The boom has eye straps on the other
side corresponding to the sail's reef points. They are located so the reef
line pulls down and aft. The block gets moved accordingly.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B
Our reef lines starts at the slides on the T track, go through the grommets
at the reef points on the mainsail, and then run to the back of the boom
where they goes over the sheaves and disappears inside the boom to reappear
at the mast and so on to the cabin-top rope clutches and winches.
The giv
>...1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom...
Calypso's boom has a similar T track on each side of the boom. I still tie the
reefing lines around the boom and have seen very little paint wear.
The tracks on Calypso's boom were installed long ago and may also act as
stiffeners as t
Awesome guys! Thanks everyone for the input. It looks like "that's just
the way it is". Nobody in the industry has necessarily come up with
anything earth shatteringly better.
As I think I eluded to earlier, I'm averse to whimsically drilling holes in
the boom. Besides, I'm not sure a track o
I left my west system epoxy out in the shed all winter. would the sub freezing
temps have had any ill effect? Should I just buy more? Danny___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay f
Not too keen on the single line reefing arrangement. You're adding another 180
degree bend into a system that is already loaded with friction.
I do have single line reefing and with a block at the luff and an electric
winch it's fine for the first reef, marginal for the second.
John
Sent fro
From the West website:
Store at room temperature. Keep containers closed to prevent
contamination. With proper storage, resin and hardeners should remain
usable for many years. Over time, 105 Resin will thicken slightly and
will therefore require extra care when mixing. Repeated freeze/thaw
c
Danny,
Two suggestions; check on the West systems web site and,
if the bond is to critical (e.g. very important vs. cosmetic) run a test batch
(2 pumps of each part) mix well and let cure. If it sets up and looks normal I
would use it.
Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle
[Description:
My single line reefing works almost exactly as you describe (at the mast end,
the line goes down to the mast collar, then up to the reefing cringle (actually
a dog bone there)). The only difference is that I have a car inside the boom,
so the line is split. It works just fine. You can reef from
Bill, Martin, thank you for the help. Its just to seal the balsa in a
penetration, above the water line. It'll probably be fine. I'll have to check
it out tonight. Danny
Please note: message attached
From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Cc: Martin DeYoung
Subject:
BTW, here at the transformer factory we commonly store epoxies in the freezer
to extend the shelf life. Some of our exotic very high temp epoxies (use in
aircraft propulsion) are shipped and stored at -40C.
We have been using warm water to eliminate the crystals in epoxy hardener since
1972.
If you draw that out I believe it’s 3 X 180 degree turn, 3 X 90 degree turn and
one nominal 30 degree deflection. Personally I would opt for 2 line but I’m
biased toward that anyway.
John
> On Apr 8, 2016, at 2:50 PM, Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> My single line reefi
Martin
Just curious, do you get to work with Optimus Prime?
Tom B
At 12:45 PM 4/8/2016, you wrote:
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 18:52:19 +
From: Martin DeYoung
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin
Message-ID: <23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08
Yes, he's in shipping.
Best regards,
Martin
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 12:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Optimus Prime
Martin
Just curious, do you get to work
Hi Danny
If the resin comes out milky you need to warm it up to de-crystalize
it. A bucket of very hot water will do the trick nicely, plop the can
into it and let it sit a half hour.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2016-04-08 3:27 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
I left
Listers,
Has anyone with 1989-1993 C&Cs installed instruments into a NavPod (or similar)
onto their stainless pedestal guards, and, if so, how did you run the wires
down from inside the guard? In other words, once you reached the bottom, where
did you go from there?
As far as I can tell, with
Can I get there through the Highland Canal?
Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2016 12:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List La
Josh:
If what you're trying to do is use one line to reef both the tack and clew
of the Mainthat's a lot of force needed for a single line. What's
commonly done is to make up a "strap loop" probably 6" long with stainless
rings at each end and fed through the tack grommet before sewing the lo
Thanks Ron,
That's pretty much how I do it now. I just keep thinking there might be
something better... Guess not.
Josh
On Apr 8, 2016 4:33 PM, "Rjcasciato via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Josh:
>
> If what you’re trying to do is use one line to reef both the tack and clew
> of the Main……….that’s a lot
Edd,
I have had my pedestal completely apart twice in 5 years. If you've never
done this then stand by your in for a treat.
Below the pedestal is a idle plate that holds 2 sheaves that change the
direction of the steering cables from vertical to horizontal. That plate
is made of carbon steel an
Josh,
I replaced my steering cables last year and the sheaves appear to be all right.
As I have it now, my old GPS has a clamp which attaches to the guard and the
wire goes into the pedestal under the engine controls (See photo in one of my
recent Captain’s Log entries:
http://enterpriseb.blog
Edd,
I had a Navpod with an MFD added to my 1991 37+. The pedestal guard was
replaced so the Navpod could be mounted above the compass. The new pedestal
guard has larger ID (1-1/8) to take MFD power, NMEA 2000 cables, radar cable
and 12 VDC plug wiring.
There is no access point in th
Hi Edd,
I've been quiet about this because I haven't run wires through my pedestal
guard because the feet on mine are solid underneath. A single bolt attaches
each foot. Edson sells a two bolt foot that is needed to use the guard as a
conduit. Last I checked the feet cost $50 each.
If you go
Edd
I put the navpod on a pedestal guard that was about 8" taller than
the old one. I then ran the wire through the inside of the pedestal
guard to under the support plate for the guard, just under the
binnacle where it exits the pedestal when I installed my e7 MFD. I
had to tap into the bi
Hi Ron,
You refer to a "strap loop" that goes through the tack cringle. I think this
is exactly what i'm missing! Where do I get one of these? Or how do I make one?
For the past two years i've just been trying to hook the cringle onto the
reefing hook on the boom...this doesn't work very wel
er to extend the shelf life. Some of our exotic very high
>> temp epoxies (use in aircraft propulsion) are shipped and stored at -40C.
>>
>> We have been using warm water to eliminate the crystals in epoxy
>> hardener since 1972.
>>
Hi, I ran mine in the pedestal itself.
You can run it unobtrusively from the pedestal into the guard near the
compass binnacle. Then you can run that to the pod.
-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Ga
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 8, 2016, at 1:35 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
in aircraft propulsion) are shipped and stored at -40C.
>
>We have been using warm water to eliminate the crystals in epoxy
>hardener since 1972.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Martin
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
--
Bill...saw you...in all probability...return from a race last year just before
labor day last year. Been thru Pentwater twice in the last couple of
yearswe really like Snug Harbor. Interested in a rendezvous!Spencer &
Martha Johnson 84 Landfall 38 "Alegria"Winters in WaukeganSum
>From PO I have some through binnacle and GPS zip tied to outside tubing and
through small waterproof deck fitting. At first I just thought it was lazy
to go to deck fitting, but it is much more serviceable and accessible fwiw.
Kevin
89 30-2 Osprey
On Fri, Apr 8, 2016, 7:24 PM Jean-Francois J Riv
You could also use your Cunningham. You have one?
On Fri, Apr 8, 2016, 6:47 PM Michael Crombie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi Ron,
>
> You refer to a "strap loop" that goes through the tack cringle. I think
> this is exactly what i'm missing! Where do I get one of these? Or h
When I had my mainsail made I had the sail maker include the dogbones
(strops) in both reef cringles and I had him add a web nylon handle above
the cringles so that you can pull the sail and control its movement while
setting the dogbone. I have considered making my dogbones longer by
removing the
Youb can quite easily make one. Have a look at the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91YlX4MRv3Q
Marek
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Crombie via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 21:47
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Muskegon would be great!
John and Marjolein
dutch girl
On Thursday, April 7, 2016, Jon Tasker via CnC-List
wrote:
> As member of Muskegon Yacht Club, I would be happy to make any and all
> arrangements for a randevous at MYC if there is sufficient interest. Just
> step up and let me know what th
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